<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</SPAN><br/> <span class="smaller">KUMASSI (1900)</span></h2>
<p class="summary">The Governor’s visit—Pageant of Kings—Evil omens—The Fetish Grove—The
fort—Loyal natives locked out—A fight—King Aguna’s
triumph—Relief at last—Their perils—Saved by a dog—Second
relief—Governor retires—Wait for Colonel Willcocks—The flag still
flying—Lady Hodgson’s adventures.</p>
<p>In 1874 Sir Garnet Wolseley captured Kumassi, the
capital of the Ashantis, whose country lies in the interior
of the Gold Coast, in West Africa. In March, 1900, Sir
Frederick Hodgson, Governor of the Gold Coast, set out
with Lady Hodgson and a large party of carriers and
attendants to visit Ashantiland. They had no anticipation
of any trouble arising, and on their march held several
palavers with friendly Kings and chiefs.</p>
<p>On Sunday, the 25th of March, they entered Kumassi
in state. At the brow of a steep hill the European officials
met the Governor’s party, and escorted them into the
town. At the base of the hill they had to cross a swamp
on a high causeway, and then ascend a shorter hill to
the fort. Some children under the Basel missionaries sang
“God Save the Queen!” at a spot where only a few years
before human sacrifices and every species of horrible torture
used to be enacted.</p>
<p>Soon they passed under a triumphal arch, decorated
with palms, having “Welcome” worked upon it in<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</SPAN></span>
flowers. Near the fort were assembled in a gorgeous
pageant native Kings and chiefs, with their followers, who
all rose up to salute the Governor, while the royal umbrellas
of state were rapidly whirled round and round to
signify the general applause. Everything seemed to
promise order and contentment. But that night Lady
Hodgson was informed by her native servants that very
bad fetishes, or portents, had been passed on the road
through the forest. One of these was a fowl split open
while still alive, and laid upon a fetish stone; another
was a string of eggs twined about a fetish house; a third
was the presence of little mounds of earth to represent
graves—a token that the white man would find burial
in Ashanti.</p>
<p>The next day Lady Hodgson went to see the once
famous Fetish Grove—the place into which the bodies of
those slain for human sacrifices were thrown. Most of
its trees had been blown up with dynamite in 1896, when
our troops had marched in to restore order, and the bones
and skulls had been buried. The executioners—a
hereditary office—used to have a busy time in the old
days, for every offence was punished by mutilation or
death; for, as the King of the Quia country once told the
boys at Harrow School, “We have no prisons, and we
have to chop off ear or nose or hand, and let the rascal go.”</p>
<p>But the Ashanti victim had the right of appealing to
the King against his sentence. This right had become a
dead-letter, because, as soon as the sentence of execution
had been pronounced, the victim was surrounded by a
clamorous crowd, and a sharp knife was run through one
cheek, through the tongue, and so out through the other
cheek, which somewhat impeded his power of appeal.
One would have thought that English rule and white
justice would have been a pleasant change after the
severity of the native law.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>The fort is a good square building, with rounded
bastions at the four corners. On each of these bastions is
a platform on which can be worked a Maxim gun, each
gun being protected by a roof above and by iron shutters
at the sides. The only entrance to the fort lies on the
south, where are heavy iron bullet-proof gates, which
can be secured by heavy beams resting in slots in the wall.
The walls of the fort are loopholed, and inside are platforms
for those who are defending to shoot from. There
is a well of good water in one corner of the square. The
ground all round the fort was cleared, and it would be
very difficult for an enemy to cross the open in any
assault.</p>
<p>As soon as the Governor of the Gold Coast knew that
the Ashanti Kings were bent on war, he telegraphed for
help from the coast and from the north, where most of
the Hausa troops were employed. They were 150 miles
away from help, with a climate hot and unhealthy, the
rainy season being near at hand; and they were surrounded
by warlike and savage tribes. Fortunately,
some of the native Kings, with their followers, were loyal
to the English Queen; these tried to persuade the rebels
to desist from revolt, and lay their grievances before the
Governor in palaver. But the more they tried to pacify
them, the more insolent were their demands. The first
detachment of Hausa troops arrived on the 18th of April,
to the great joy of the little garrison; but soon after their
arrival the market began to fail: the natives dare not come
with food-stuffs, and the roads were now closed. On
the 25th a Maxim gun was run out of the fort to check
the advance of the Ashantis; but they possessed themselves
of the town, and loopholed the huts near the fort.
The loyal inhabitants of Kumassi had left their homes,
and were crowded outside the walls of the fort, bringing
with them their portable goods, being upwards of 3,000<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</SPAN></span>
men, women, and children. The gates of the fort had
hitherto remained open, but it was evident that the small
English force would be compelled to concentrate in the
fort; and as the refugees seemed to be bent on rushing
the gates for safer shelter, the order was given to close
the gates.</p>
<p>“Gradually the gate guard was removed one by one, and
then came the work of shutting the gates and barricading
them. Never shall I forget the sight. My heart stood still,
for I knew that were this panic-stricken crowd to get in, the
fort would fall an easy prey to the rebels, and we should
be lost. It was an anxious moment. Could the guards
close the gates in face of that rushing multitude? A
moment later, and the suspense was over. There was a
desperate struggle, a cry, a bang, and the refugees fell
back.” Then they tried to climb up by the posts of the
veranda. So sentries had to be posted on the veranda
to force them down again. “I felt very much for these
poor folk,” writes Lady Hodgson; “but, besides the fact
that the fort would not have accommodated a third of
them, the whole space was wanted for our troops.”</p>
<p>The hours of that day went on, with sniping from all
sides. Sometimes the rebels would come out into the
open to challenge a fight, but the machine guns made
them aware that boldness was not the best policy.</p>
<p>At night, when our men flung themselves down to rest,
the whole sky was lit up with the fire of the Hausa cantonments
and of the town. Tongues of fire were leaping up
to the skies on all sides, lighting up the horrors of the
scene around, affrighting the women and children, and
adding to the anxiety of all.</p>
<p>Night at Kumassi was not a time of quiet repose; the
incessant chatter of the men and women just outside the
walls, the yelling and squealing of children, all made
sleep difficult. And there was ever the thought under<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</SPAN></span>lying
all that to-morrow might be the end, that the fort
might be rushed by numbers.</p>
<p>But, as it turned out, the 26th dawned quietly. So,
later in the day, a strong escort of Hausas was sent to the
hospital to recover, if possible, the drugs and medical
stores which had been abandoned through lack of carriers
when the sick were brought into the fort. Fortunately,
the rebels had left the drugs and stores untouched, and
they were brought in with thankful alacrity.</p>
<p>The next night there was a hurricane of wind rushing
through the forest trees and drenching the poor refugees,
who tried to light fires to keep themselves warm.</p>
<p>“There was a dear old Hausa sentry on the veranda
near my bedroom, who regarded me as his special charge.
On this occasion, and on others, when my curiosity
prompted me to go on the veranda to see what was
happening, this old man would push me back, saying in
very broken English, ‘Go to room—Ashanti man come—very
bad. You no come out, miss.’”</p>
<p>It had been hoped that by the 29th of April the Lagos
Hausas would have arrived to rescue them, but they did
not come, and the rebels fired the hospital. Not liking
our shells bursting amongst them, the Ashantis, instead of
retiring, swarmed out into the open, and advanced upon
the fort. The refugees were cowering down close to the
walls, and around them were the Hausa outposts ready
with their rifles. In the fort were the gunners standing
to their guns. As the rebels came on, jumping and shouting,
and dancing and firing, the Maxims opened upon
them; still they came on, and now the Hausa outposts
took up the fire. At last the fight became a hand-to-hand
struggle, and the guns in the fort had to cease firing, lest
they should hit friend and foe alike. Then some 200
loyal natives, led by Captain Armitage, sallied out to
the fight. “At their head were their chiefs, promi<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</SPAN></span>nent
amongst whom was the young King of Aguna,
dressed in his fetish war-coat, in the form of a ‘jumper,’
and hung back and front with fetish charms made from
snake and other skins. He also wore a pair of thick
leather boots, and where these ended his black legs began,
and continued until they met well above the knee a short
trouser of coloured cotton. He also wore a fierce-looking
head-dress, and carried war charms made of elephant
tails. Proudly and well did he bear himself; and at
last, to our joy, a great cheer rose in the distance, and
proclaimed that the enemy were retiring. Soon King
Aguna came back, triumphantly carried on the shoulders
of two of his warriors to the gate of the fort, where he met
with a great ovation from his ‘ladies,’ who flocked round
him, pressing forward to shake his hand and congratulate
him upon the victory.” So the day was won, and with
the loss of only one man killed and three wounded, as the
rebels fired over our heads.</p>
<p>Captain Middlemist had been too ill to take the command,
and it devolved upon Captain G. Marshall, Royal
West Kent Regiment, who, after his severe exertions,
suddenly succumbed, and was brought into quarters half
delirious. The heat of the sun, the excitement, and the
work had been too much for him; fortunately, he was well
again the next day.</p>
<p>By this victory the rebels had been driven out of
Kumassi and across the swamps; they had left behind
large supplies of food and war stores, which the garrison
secured; even the refugees outside the walls began to
smile and sing. It is astonishing how these children of
Nature suddenly change from the depth of woe to an
ecstasy and delirium of delight.</p>
<p>But where were the Lagos Hausas all this time?</p>
<p>Four o’clock came, five o’clock came, and still no sign
of their arriving. Anxious faces scanned the Cape Coast<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</SPAN></span>
road. Something must have happened to them; they
had been met, checked, repulsed.</p>
<p>But at half-past five firing was heard in the forest.
“There they are,” said each to his neighbour, and a
feverish excitement made numbers run to the veranda
posts, and climb up to get a better view. A force also
was sent down the road to meet them. How slow the
time went with the watchers in the fort!</p>
<p>Just before six o’clock there was a yell from the loyal
natives, and shouts announced that the Hausas were
coming round the bend of the road. The relief came in
through two long lines of natives, who wanted to see the
brave fellows who had fought their way up to Kumassi
from the coast. But, poor fellows! they had had a
terrible time: their officers were all wounded; they had
had nothing to eat or drink since early morning, and they
were fearfully exhausted.</p>
<p>However, after they had slept a few hours and drunk
some tea, they were able to tell their tale. Captain Aplin,
who led them, said:</p>
<p>“We got on all right till we came to a village called
Esiago, when we were attacked on both sides by a large
force concealed among the trees. I formed the men up
two deep, kneeling, and facing the bush on either side.
By Jove! it was a perfect hail of slugs; and we could not
see a soul, as the black chaps slid down the trunks of the
trees into the jungle. Captain Cochrane, who was with
the Maxim, was hit in the shoulder, but would not leave
his post, and Dr. Macfarlane was wounded while tending
him. Then the machine-guns became overheated and
jammed, and had to cease firing. Four times the enemy
returned to the attack. I got this graze on my cheek
from a bullet which passed through my orderly’s leg.</p>
<p>“Next day, after crossing the Ordah River, we were
attacked at eleven a.m., and the fight lasted till five in the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</SPAN></span>
evening. A sudden turn in the track, and we saw a
strongly-built stockade, horseshoe shape. Some Ashantis
were looking over the top and peering between the logs.
The track was so narrow that we had no front for firing,
and the whole path was swept by their guns. I told off
Captain Cochrane to outflank the stockade. He, with
thirty Hausas, crept away into the bush to do so. Meanwhile,
we ran short of ammunition, and had to load with
gravel and stones. When I told the men to fix bayonets
ready for a charge, I found they were so done up they
could hardly stand. Our hour seemed to have struck,
and the guns had again jammed. Just then three volleys
sounded near the stockade. Cochrane was enfilading them.
Hurrah! Instantly the Ashanti fire began to slacken.
One charge, and it was ours.”</p>
<p>Amongst those who had come in with the Hausas was
Mr. Branch, an officer in the telegraph department. In
reply to Lady Hodgson as to how he was so lame, he
replied:</p>
<p>“I and my men were busy putting the line right to
Kumassi. We were peacefully going through the forest
when—bang! one of my hammock-men went down, shot,
and the rest, carriers and all, threw down their loads,
and bolted into the tangle of trees and undergrowth. By
good luck, I had taken off my helmet and placed it at the
foot of my hammock. The rebels thought it was my head,
and every gun was blazing away at my poor helmet. It
was fairly riddled, I can tell you. I jumped out of the
hammock, and made for the bush; but it was so thick and
thorny, the brutes caught me and beat me with sticks
about the legs and feet, so that I can scarcely walk, as
you see. Well, it was my poor terrier dog that saved me;
for he came nosing after me, but somehow took a wrong
turn, was fired on and wounded, and went off whimpering
into the bush in a different direction. The Ashantis<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</SPAN></span>
followed my doggie, thinking he was with me; so I got
away from them that night. I wandered about, trying
to find the village, where a Kokofu chief was friendly to
me. As daylight came I heard natives talking, and threw
myself down under some leaves, thinking it would be
rather unpleasant to be taken and tortured. Well, they
came up, saw the grass had been disturbed, stopped,
examined, found me! I was done for! No, I was not.
I saw by their grinning and other signs that they were
friendly. In fact, my carriers had told the friendly chief
about me, and he had sent these men to bring me back;
they had been looking for me all night. They carried me
back to Esumeja, where I stayed until the Lagos Hausas
came up on the 27th of April.”</p>
<p>Next day the garrison of Kumassi found that their
rescuers had been compelled to abandon their rice, and
to fire away most of their ammunition on the road. Now
there were 250 more mouths to feed, and food was running
short. Rations were served out every morning, and it
was a very delicate operation, for the loyal natives
thought it a clever thing to steal a tin of beef or biscuits.
The biscuits and tinned meat had been stored four years
in a tropical climate; the meat-tins were covered inside
by a coating of green mould, and the biscuits were either
too hard to bite or were half-eaten already by weevils.
Captain Middleton died on the 6th of May, and when he
was buried, his “boy” Mounchi lay down on his master’s
grave like a faithful dog and sobbed bitterly. That boy
became a famous nurse; they called him the “Rough
Diamond.” The poor refugees had now left the walls
of the fort and had gone to their huts; they looked so
wan and piteous.</p>
<p>Night after night there came a fearful noise of drumming
from the rebel camps. The loyal chiefs said the
drums were beating out defiance and challenge to fight.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Why not send for more white men?” Ah! why did
they not come?</p>
<p>Every day news came of a rescue column; every night
the rumour was proved false.</p>
<p>On the 15th of May, about 3.30 p.m., there was a terrific
hubbub all round the fort. Officers rushed on to the
veranda to see what was the matter. Hundreds of
friendly natives were streaming along the north road.</p>
<p>“What is it, chief?”</p>
<p>“Heavy loads of food coming in. Much eat! much eat—very
good for belly!”</p>
<p>In a few minutes the garrison saw a joyful sight:
Major Morris leading in his troops from the northern territories—such
a fine body of men, all wearing the picturesque
many-coloured straw hats of the north. Some of
the officers were on ponies. Oh, what shaking of hands!
what delightful chatter! But they, too, had had to fight
their way through several stockades, and some were
wounded.</p>
<p>“The arrival of Major Morris,” writes Lady Hodgson,
“seemed to take a load off our minds. He was so cheery,
confident, and resourceful, and seemed always able to raise
the spirits of the faint-hearted.... But the large
loads of food did not in reality exist: they had only
brought enough to last a week; they had, however,
brought plenty of ammunition.”</p>
<p>Major Morris was now in command of 750 of all ranks,
and he resolved to make a reconnaissance in force. They
went after the rebels far from the fort, and whilst they
were away fighting, the wives of the refugees were doing
a slow funeral dance up and down the road, chanting a
mournful dirge, their faces and bodies daubed with white
paint. In spite of this appeal to their gods, many
wounded were carried back to the fort.</p>
<p>Many a weary day came and went; no strong relief<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</SPAN></span>
came—no news. The natives were dying of starvation:
some went mad and shrieked; others sat still and picked
their cloth to pieces. It was bad enough for all. A rat
cost ten shillings; all pets had been eaten long ago.</p>
<p>Then it was determined that the Governor and Lady
Hodgson and most of the garrison should try to force
their way to the coast, as there were only three days’
supply of rations left. The 23rd of June was to be the day
of departure.</p>
<p>The Governor’s last words to the men left behind in
the fort were: “Well, you have a supply of food for
twenty-three days, and are safe for that period; but we
are going to die to-day.” Captain Bishop was left in
command of the fort, with a small force.</p>
<p>From Captain Bishop’s report we learn that Major
Morris had scarcely left Kumassi when he saw a band of
Ashantis coming towards the fort from their stockade.
They thought, no doubt, that the fort had been deserted,
but the fire from two Maxims soon convinced them to
the contrary. The refugees, who had built shelters round
the walls, had all, with the exception of 150, gone away
with the Governor’s column; but their empty shelters
formed a pestilential area: over them hovered vultures—a
sure proof of what some of them contained—and one
of the first duties of the little garrison was to burn them
up, after examining their contents.</p>
<p>The day after the column left three men died of starvation,
and almost daily one or more succumbed. When
no relief came, as promised—though they had been told
it was only sixteen miles off—their hopes fell, and after
ten days they gave up all hope of surviving.</p>
<p>“But,” he says, “we kept up an appearance of cheerfulness
for the sake of our men. I regard the conduct of
the native troops as marvellous; they maintained perfect
discipline, and never complained. Some were too weak<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</SPAN></span>
even to stand at the table to receive their rations, and
lay about on the ground. All were worn to skin and bone,
but there were a few who, to relieve their hunger, had
been eating poisonous herbs, which caused great swellings
of the body. Sometimes native women would come
outside the fort and offer to sell food. A penny piece of
cocoa realized fifteen shillings; bananas were eighteen-pence
each; half a biscuit could be bought for three
shillings. This may give some idea of the scarcity of
food.</p>
<p>“On the 14th of July we heard terrific firing at 4.30 p.m.
Hopes jumped up again, but most of the men were too weak
to care for anything. It was very pathetic that now, when
relief was at hand, some of the men were just at the point
of death.</p>
<p>“At 4.45, amid the din of the ever-approaching firing,
we heard ringing British cheers, and a shell passed over
the top of the fort. We soon saw shells bursting in all
directions about 400 yards off, and we fired a Maxim to
show that we were alive. Then, to our intense relief,
we heard a distant bugle sound the ‘Halt!’ and at six
o’clock on this Sunday evening, the 15th of July, we saw
the heads of the advance guard emerge from the bush,
with a fox-terrier trotting gaily in front.</p>
<p>“Instantly the two buglers on the veranda sounded the
‘Welcome,’ blowing it over and over again in their
excitement. A few minutes later a group of white helmets
told us of the arrival of the staff, and we rushed out of the
fort, cheering to the best of our ability. The meeting
with our rescuers was of a most affecting character.</p>
<p>“Colonel Willcocks and his officers plainly showed what
they had gone through. The whole of the force was
halted in front of the fort, and three cheers for the Queen
and the waving of caps and helmets formed an evening
scene that none of us will ever forget.” So they won<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</SPAN></span>
through by pluck and patience—33 Europeans and some
720 Hausas opposing many thousands of savage and cruel
natives.</p>
<p>And what about the Governor’s party?</p>
<p>They stole away on the morning of the 23rd of June in
a blue-white mist, through the swamp and the clinging
bush, till they came to a stockade. Then they were seen
by the Ashantis, who began to beat their tom-toms and
drums, signalling for help from other camps. But they
took the stockade, and found beyond it a nice little camp;
before every hut a fire was burning and food cooking, and
no one to look after it. Many a square meal was hurriedly
snatched and eaten, but some who were too greedy and
stayed behind to eat fell victims to the returning foe.</p>
<p>Then came a terrible wrestling with bad roads and
sniping blacks and a deluge of rain, and most of their
boxes were thrown away or lost.</p>
<p>Of course there were many cases of theft. On the third
night two men were brought into the village in a dying
state. One of them was clasping in his hand a label
taken from a bottle of Scrubb’s ammonia. They had
broken open a box, and finished the two bottles which
they found there: one was whisky, the other ammonia!</p>
<p>Lady Hodgson writes: “One stream I remember well;
it was some 30 feet wide, and flowing swiftly. Across
it was a tree-trunk, very slippery. How was I to get over?
The difficulty was solved by my cook carrying me over in
his arms. He was a tall man, and managed to take me
over safely; but more than once he stumbled, and I
thought I should be dropped into the torrent. Often the
road led through high reeds and long grass, and many a
time I thought we had lost our way, and might suddenly
emerge into some unfriendly village, to be taken prisoners
or cut down.</p>
<p>“At last N’kwanta came in sight, perched on a hill.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</SPAN></span>
We could see the Union Jack flying on a flagstaff in the
centre of the town, and the King’s people drawn up to
receive the Governor. We were at last among friends.</p>
<p>“Fires were burning everywhere, and the cooking of
food was the sole pursuit. Our poor starved Hausas had
now before them the diet in which their hearts delighted.
It was a pleasant sight to see the joy with which they
welcomed their altered prospects, and the dispersal of
the gloom which had so long rested upon all of us like a
pall.”</p>
<p class="source">From Lady Hodgson’s “Kumassi,” by kind permission of Messrs.
C. Arthur Pearson, Ltd.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</SPAN></span></p>
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