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<h2> CHAP. II. <i>Of making</i> Malts. </h2>
<p>As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to
treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden
or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered
with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell;
here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve
Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for
that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains,
requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on
Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly,
when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it
is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush
it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a
little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is
a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt
will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause
deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of
the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then
the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and
better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in
temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put
into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the
Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the
Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one
or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or
eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always
keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd;
and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four
or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air,
which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so
must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye
and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick,
ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire;
but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be
turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is
warm, as in <i>March, April</i> or <i>May</i>; and when it is fixed and
the Root begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully
kept often turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive,
and this is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's
Art and Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and
turning the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is,
that the Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if
it does, the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left
behind but the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree
and fit for the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let
it lye twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will
much improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time
it must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is
overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause
the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be
put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature
of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than
the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a
sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is
often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry
about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should
be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The
time of preparing it from the Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according
to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often
sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in
the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and
where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed,
it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap,
but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put
it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it.</p>
<p>There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron
Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The
Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled
one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel,
for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and
jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or
scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the
body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over
it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used
quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and
perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled:
Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by
burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as
formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to
scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the
Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only
turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for
drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more
leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the
Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all.</p>
<p>Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal,
Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed
all others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because
it sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that
Wood, Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but
there is a difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being
large Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the
Sulphur is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this
when it is truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but
one Cinder as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of
this one is capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often
by the negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by
some wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from <i>Swanzey</i>
in <i>Pembrokeshire</i>, being of a hard stony substance in small bits
resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its
sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward
parts of the grainy body: In <i>Devonshire</i> I have seen their Marble or
grey Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme
makes, and both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet
moderate and certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it.</p>
<p>Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all.</p>
<p>Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five
Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will
Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt,
as the Pea will.</p>
<p>I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts
in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done
him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason
others won't like such a mixture.</p>
<p>But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to
come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is
thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but
will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once
done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it
was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a
little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not
thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt,
when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the
Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was
the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid
beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from
Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick
crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such
unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of
until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the
Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good
Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to
happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and
Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the
Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on
the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its
Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having
its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts
contribute to as well as the Hop.</p>
<p>There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by
Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so
mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its
black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be
entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and
makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a
small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer
despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible,
because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it,
by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made
with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of
Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale
of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers
in the Body.</p>
<p>Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in
the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the
Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a
strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where
there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its
inebriating quality.</p>
<p>There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen,
Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here
a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak,
soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a
strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more
practised then ever.</p>
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