<h2>THE BARREN SHORE</h2>
<p>It may be a disappointment to the children each year at play upon
so many beaches—even if they are but dimly aware of their lack—to
find their annual plaything to be not a real annual; an annual thing,
indeed, to them, for the arbitrary reason that they go down to it once
a year, but not annual in the vital and natural sense of the seasons,
not waxing and waning, not bearing, not turning that circle of the seasons
whereof no one knows which is the highest point and the secret and the
ultimate purpose, not recreated, not new, and not yielding to the child
anything raw and irregular to eat.</p>
<p>Sand castles are well enough, and they are the very commonplace of
the recollections of elders, of their rhetoric, and of what they think
appropriate for their young ones. Shingle and sand are good playthings,
but absolute play is not necessarily the ideal of a child; he would
rather have a frolic of work. Of all the early autumn things to
be done in holiday time, that game with the beach and the wave is the
least good for holiday-time.</p>
<p>Not that the shore is everywhere so barren. The coast of the
Londoners—all round the southern and eastern borders of England—is
indeed the dullest of all sea-margins. But away in the gentle
bays of Jersey the summer grows a crop of seaweed which the long ocean
wave leaves in noble curves upon the beach; for under sunny water the
storms have gathered the crops. The Channel Island people go gleaning
after the sea, and store the seaweed for their fields. Thus the
beaches of Jersey bays are not altogether barren, and have a kind of
dead and accessory harvest for the farmer. After a night of storm
these crops are stacked and carted and carried, the sea-wind catching
away loose shreds from the summits of the loads.</p>
<p>Further south, if the growth of the sea is not so put to use, the
shore has yet its seasons. You could hardly tell, if you did not
know the month, whether a space of sea or a series of waves, at Aldborough,
say, or at Dover, were summer or winter water; but in those fortunate
regions which are southern, yet not too southern for winter, and have
thus the strongest swing of change and the fullest pulse of the year,
there are a winter sea and a summer sea, brilliantly different, with
a delicate variety between the hastening blue of spring and the lingering
blue of September. There you bathe from the rocks, untroubled
by tides, and unhurried by chills, and with no incongruous sun beating
on your head while your fingers are cold. You bathe when the sun
has set, and the vast sea has not a whisper; you know a rock in the
distance where you can rest; and where you float, there float also by
you opalescent jelly-fish, half transparent in the perfectly transparent
water. An hour in the warm sea is not enough. Rock-bathing
is done on lonely shores. A city may be but a mile away, and the
cultivated vineyards may be close above the seaside pine-trees, but
the place is perfectly remote. You pitch your tent on any little
hollow of beach. A charming Englishwoman who used to bathe with
her children under the great rocks of her Mediterranean villa in the
motionless white evenings of summer put white roses in her hair, and
liked to sit out on a rock at sea where the first rays of the moon would
touch her.</p>
<p>You bathe in the Channel in the very prose of the day. Nothing
in the world is more uninteresting than eleven o’clock.
It is the hour of mediocrity under the best conditions; but eleven o’clock
on a shingly beach, in a half-hearted summer, is a very common thing.
Twelve has a dignity always, and everywhere its name is great.
The noon of every day that ever dawned is in its place heroic; but eleven
is worldly. One o’clock has an honest human interest to
the hungry child, and every hour of the summer afternoon, after three,
has the grace of deepening and lingering life. To bathe at eleven
in the sun, in the wind, to bathe from a machine, in a narrow sea that
is certainly not clear and is only by courtesy clean, to bathe in obedience
to a tyrannical tide and in water that is always much colder than yourself,
to bathe in a hurry and in public—this is to know nothing rightly
of one of the greatest of all the pleasures that humanity takes with
nature.</p>
<p>By the way, the sea of Jersey has more the character of a real sea
than of mere straits. These temperate islands would be better
called the Ocean Islands. When Edouard Pailleron was a boy and
wrote poetry, he composed a letter to Victor Hugo, the address whereof
was a matter of some thought. The final decision was to direct
it, “A Victor Hugo, Océan.” It reached him.
It even received a reply: “I am the Past, you are the Future;
I am, etc.” If an English boy had had the same idea the
name of the Channel Islands would have spoilt it. “A Victor
Hugo, La Manche,” would hardly have interested the postal authorities
so much; but “the Channel” would have had no respect at
all. Indeed, this last is suggestive of nothing but steamers and
of grey skies inland—formless grey skies, undesigned, with their
thin cloud torn to slender rags by a perpetual wind.</p>
<p>As for the children, to whom belongs the margin of the sea, machine-bathing
at eleven o’clock will hardly furnish them with a magical early
memory. Time was when this was made penitential to them, like
the rest of life, upon a principle that no longer prevails. It
was vulgarized for them and made violent. A bathing woman, type
of all ugliness in their sensitive eyes, came striding, shapeless, through
the unfriendly sea, seized them if they were very young, ducked them,
and returned them to the chilly machine, generally in the futile and
superfluous saltness of tears. “Too much of water had they,”
poor infants.</p>
<p>None the less is the barren shore the children’s; and St. Augustine,
Isaac Newton, and Wordsworth had not a vision of sea-beaches without
a child there.</p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />