<SPAN name="chap01"></SPAN>
<h3> Chapter 1 </h3>
<br/>
<p class="poem">
O ye who tread the Narrow Way<br/>
By Tophet-flare to Judgment Day,<br/>
Be gentle when 'the heathen' pray<br/>
To Buddha at Kamakura!<br/>
<br/>
Buddha at Kamakura.<br/></p>
<br/>
<p>He sat, in defiance of municipal orders, astride the gun Zam Zammah on
her brick platform opposite the old Ajaib-Gher—the Wonder House, as
the natives call the Lahore Museum. Who hold Zam-Zammah, that
'fire-breathing dragon', hold the Punjab, for the great green-bronze
piece is always first of the conqueror's loot.</p>
<p>There was some justification for Kim—he had kicked Lala Dinanath's boy
off the trunnions—since the English held the Punjab and Kim was
English. Though he was burned black as any native; though he spoke the
vernacular by preference, and his mother-tongue in a clipped uncertain
sing-song; though he consorted on terms of perfect equality with the
small boys of the bazar; Kim was white—a poor white of the very
poorest. The half-caste woman who looked after him (she smoked opium,
and pretended to keep a second-hand furniture shop by the square where
the cheap cabs wait) told the missionaries that she was Kim's mother's
sister; but his mother had been nursemaid in a Colonel's family and had
married Kimball O'Hara, a young colour-sergeant of the Mavericks, an
Irish regiment. He afterwards took a post on the Sind, Punjab, and
Delhi Railway, and his Regiment went home without him. The wife died
of cholera in Ferozepore, and O'Hara fell to drink and loafing up and
down the line with the keen-eyed three-year-old baby. Societies and
chaplains, anxious for the child, tried to catch him, but O'Hara
drifted away, till he came across the woman who took opium and learned
the taste from her, and died as poor whites die in India. His estate
at death consisted of three papers—one he called his 'ne varietur'
because those words were written below his signature thereon, and
another his 'clearance-certificate'. The third was Kim's
birth-certificate. Those things, he was used to say, in his glorious
opium-hours, would yet make little Kimball a man. On no account was
Kim to part with them, for they belonged to a great piece of
magic—such magic as men practised over yonder behind the Museum, in
the big blue-and-white Jadoo-Gher—the Magic House, as we name the
Masonic Lodge. It would, he said, all come right some day, and Kim's
horn would be exalted between pillars—monstrous pillars—of beauty and
strength. The Colonel himself, riding on a horse, at the head of the
finest Regiment in the world, would attend to Kim—little Kim that
should have been better off than his father. Nine hundred first-class
devils, whose God was a Red Bull on a green field, would attend to Kim,
if they had not forgotten O'Hara—poor O'Hara that was gang-foreman on
the Ferozepore line. Then he would weep bitterly in the broken rush
chair on the veranda. So it came about after his death that the woman
sewed parchment, paper, and birth-certificate into a leather
amulet-case which she strung round Kim's neck.</p>
<p>'And some day,' she said, confusedly remembering O'Hara's prophecies,
'there will come for you a great Red Bull on a green field, and the
Colonel riding on his tall horse, yes, and' dropping into
English—'nine hundred devils.'</p>
<p>'Ah,' said Kim, 'I shall remember. A Red Bull and a Colonel on a horse
will come, but first, my father said, will come the two men making
ready the ground for these matters. That is how my father said they
always did; and it is always so when men work magic.'</p>
<p>If the woman had sent Kim up to the local Jadoo-Gher with those papers,
he would, of course, have been taken over by the Provincial Lodge, and
sent to the Masonic Orphanage in the Hills; but what she had heard of
magic she distrusted. Kim, too, held views of his own. As he reached
the years of indiscretion, he learned to avoid missionaries and white
men of serious aspect who asked who he was, and what he did. For Kim
did nothing with an immense success. True, he knew the wonderful
walled city of Lahore from the Delhi Gate to the outer Fort Ditch; was
hand in glove with men who led lives stranger than anything Haroun al
Raschid dreamed of; and he lived in a life wild as that of the Arabian
Nights, but missionaries and secretaries of charitable societies could
not see the beauty of it. His nickname through the wards was 'Little
Friend of all the World'; and very often, being lithe and
inconspicuous, he executed commissions by night on the crowded
housetops for sleek and shiny young men of fashion. It was
intrigue,—of course he knew that much, as he had known all evil since
he could speak,—but what he loved was the game for its own sake—the
stealthy prowl through the dark gullies and lanes, the crawl up a
waterpipe, the sights and sounds of the women's world on the flat
roofs, and the headlong flight from housetop to housetop under cover of
the hot dark. Then there were holy men, ash-smeared fakirs by their
brick shrines under the trees at the riverside, with whom he was quite
familiar—greeting them as they returned from begging-tours, and, when
no one was by, eating from the same dish. The woman who looked after
him insisted with tears that he should wear European clothes—trousers,
a shirt and a battered hat. Kim found it easier to slip into Hindu or
Mohammedan garb when engaged on certain businesses. One of the young
men of fashion—he who was found dead at the bottom of a well on the
night of the earthquake—had once given him a complete suit of Hindu
kit, the costume of a lowcaste street boy, and Kim stored it in a
secret place under some baulks in Nila Ram's timber-yard, beyond the
Punjab High Court, where the fragrant deodar logs lie seasoning after
they have driven down the Ravi. When there was business or frolic
afoot, Kim would use his properties, returning at dawn to the veranda,
all tired out from shouting at the heels of a marriage procession, or
yelling at a Hindu festival. Sometimes there was food in the house,
more often there was not, and then Kim went out again to eat with his
native friends.</p>
<p>As he drummed his heels against Zam-Zammah he turned now and again from
his king-of-the-castle game with little Chota Lal and Abdullah the
sweetmeat-seller's son, to make a rude remark to the native policeman
on guard over rows of shoes at the Museum door. The big Punjabi grinned
tolerantly: he knew Kim of old. So did the water-carrier, sluicing
water on the dry road from his goat-skin bag. So did Jawahir Singh,
the Museum carpenter, bent over new packing-cases. So did everybody in
sight except the peasants from the country, hurrying up to the Wonder
House to view the things that men made in their own province and
elsewhere. The Museum was given up to Indian arts and manufactures,
and anybody who sought wisdom could ask the Curator to explain.</p>
<p>'Off! Off! Let me up!' cried Abdullah, climbing up Zam-Zammah's wheel.</p>
<p>'Thy father was a pastry-cook, Thy mother stole the ghi,' sang Kim.
'All Mussalmans fell off Zam-Zammah long ago!'</p>
<p>'Let me up!' shrilled little Chota Lal in his gilt-embroidered cap.
His father was worth perhaps half a million sterling, but India is the
only democratic land in the world.</p>
<p>'The Hindus fell off Zam-Zammah too. The Mussalmans pushed them off.
Thy father was a pastry-cook—'</p>
<p>He stopped; for there shuffled round the corner, from the roaring Motee
Bazar, such a man as Kim, who thought he knew all castes, had never
seen. He was nearly six feet high, dressed in fold upon fold of dingy
stuff like horse-blanketing, and not one fold of it could Kim refer to
any known trade or profession. At his belt hung a long open-work iron
pencase and a wooden rosary such as holy men wear. On his head was a
gigantic sort of tam-o'-shanter. His face was yellow and wrinkled, like
that of Fook Shing, the Chinese bootmaker in the bazar. His eyes
turned up at the corners and looked like little slits of onyx.</p>
<p>'Who is that?' said Kim to his companions.</p>
<p>'Perhaps it is a man,' said Abdullah, finger in mouth, staring.</p>
<p>'Without doubt,' returned Kim; 'but he is no man of India that I have
ever seen.'</p>
<p>'A priest, perhaps,' said Chota Lal, spying the rosary. 'See! He goes
into the Wonder House!'</p>
<p>'Nay, nay,' said the policeman, shaking his head. 'I do not understand
your talk.' The constable spoke Punjabi. 'O Friend of all the World,
what does he say?'</p>
<p>'Send him hither,' said Kim, dropping from Zam-Zammah, flourishing his
bare heels. 'He is a foreigner, and thou art a buffalo.'</p>
<p>The man turned helplessly and drifted towards the boys. He was old,
and his woollen gaberdine still reeked of the stinking artemisia of the
mountain passes.</p>
<p>'O Children, what is that big house?' he said in very fair Urdu.</p>
<p>'The Ajaib-Gher, the Wonder House!' Kim gave him no title—such as
Lala or Mian. He could not divine the man's creed.</p>
<p>'Ah! The Wonder House! Can any enter?'</p>
<p>'It is written above the door—all can enter.'</p>
<p>'Without payment?'</p>
<p>'I go in and out. I am no banker,' laughed Kim.</p>
<p>'Alas! I am an old man. I did not know.' Then, fingering his rosary,
he half turned to the Museum.</p>
<p>'What is your caste? Where is your house? Have you come far?' Kim
asked.</p>
<p>'I came by Kulu—from beyond the Kailas—but what know you? From the
Hills where'—he sighed—'the air and water are fresh and cool.'</p>
<p>'Aha! Khitai [a Chinaman],' said Abdullah proudly. Fook Shing had
once chased him out of his shop for spitting at the joss above the
boots.</p>
<p>'Pahari [a hillman],' said little Chota Lal.</p>
<p>'Aye, child—a hillman from hills thou'lt never see. Didst hear of
Bhotiyal [Tibet]? I am no Khitai, but a Bhotiya [Tibetan], since you
must know—a lama—or, say, a guru in your tongue.'</p>
<p>'A guru from Tibet,' said Kim. 'I have not seen such a man. They be
Hindus in Tibet, then?'</p>
<p>'We be followers of the Middle Way, living in peace in our lamasseries,
and I go to see the Four Holy Places before I die. Now do you, who are
children, know as much as I do who am old.' He smiled benignantly on
the boys.</p>
<p>'Hast thou eaten?'</p>
<p>He fumbled in his bosom and drew forth a worn, wooden begging-bowl. The
boys nodded. All priests of their acquaintance begged.</p>
<p>'I do not wish to eat yet.' He turned his head like an old tortoise in
the sunlight. 'Is it true that there are many images in the Wonder
House of Lahore?' He repeated the last words as one making sure of an
address.</p>
<p>'That is true,' said Abdullah. 'It is full of heathen busts. Thou
also art an idolater.'</p>
<p>'Never mind him,' said. Kim. 'That is the Government's house and
there is no idolatry in it, but only a Sahib with a white beard. Come
with me and I will show.'</p>
<p>'Strange priests eat boys,' whispered Chota Lal.</p>
<p>'And he is a stranger and a but-parast [idolater],' said Abdullah, the
Mohammedan.</p>
<p>Kim laughed. 'He is new. Run to your mothers' laps, and be safe.
Come!'</p>
<p>Kim clicked round the self-registering turnstile; the old man followed
and halted amazed. In the entrance-hall stood the larger figures of
the Greco-Buddhist sculptures done, savants know how long since, by
forgotten workmen whose hands were feeling, and not unskilfully, for
the mysteriously transmitted Grecian touch. There were hundreds of
pieces, friezes of figures in relief, fragments of statues and slabs
crowded with figures that had encrusted the brick walls of the Buddhist
stupas and viharas of the North Country and now, dug up and labelled,
made the pride of the Museum. In open-mouthed wonder the lama turned
to this and that, and finally checked in rapt attention before a large
alto-relief representing a coronation or apotheosis of the Lord Buddha.
The Master was represented seated on a lotus the petals of which were
so deeply undercut as to show almost detached. Round Him was an adoring
hierarchy of kings, elders, and old-time Buddhas. Below were
lotus-covered waters with fishes and water-birds. Two butterfly-winged
devas held a wreath over His head; above them another pair supported an
umbrella surmounted by the jewelled headdress of the Bodhisat.</p>
<p>'The Lord! The Lord! It is Sakya Muni himself,' the lama half sobbed;
and under his breath began the wonderful Buddhist invocation:</p>
<p>To Him the Way, the Law, apart, Whom Maya held beneath her heart,
Ananda's Lord, the Bodhisat.</p>
<p>'And He is here! The Most Excellent Law is here also. My pilgrimage
is well begun. And what work! What work!'</p>
<p>'Yonder is the Sahib.' said Kim, and dodged sideways among the cases
of the arts and manufacturers wing. A white-bearded Englishman was
looking at the lama, who gravely turned and saluted him and after some
fumbling drew forth a note-book and a scrap of paper.</p>
<p>'Yes, that is my name,' smiling at the clumsy, childish print.</p>
<p>'One of us who had made pilgrimage to the Holy Places—he is now Abbot
of the Lung-Cho Monastery—gave it me,' stammered the lama. 'He spoke
of these.' His lean hand moved tremulously round.</p>
<p>'Welcome, then, O lama from Tibet. Here be the images, and I am
here'—he glanced at the lama's face—'to gather knowledge. Come to my
office awhile.' The old man was trembling with excitement.</p>
<p>The office was but a little wooden cubicle partitioned off from the
sculpture-lined gallery. Kim laid himself down, his ear against a
crack in the heat-split cedar door, and, following his instinct,
stretched out to listen and watch.</p>
<p>Most of the talk was altogether above his head. The lama, haltingly at
first, spoke to the Curator of his own lamassery, the Such-zen,
opposite the Painted Rocks, four months' march away. The Curator
brought out a huge book of photos and showed him that very place,
perched on its crag, overlooking the gigantic valley of many-hued
strata.</p>
<p>'Ay, ay!' The lama mounted a pair of horn-rimmed spectacles of Chinese
work. 'Here is the little door through which we bring wood before
winter. And thou—the English know of these things? He who is now
Abbot of Lung-Cho told me, but I did not believe. The Lord—the
Excellent One—He has honour here too? And His life is known?'</p>
<p>'It is all carven upon the stones. Come and see, if thou art rested.'</p>
<p>Out shuffled the lama to the main hall, and, the Curator beside him,
went through the collection with the reverence of a devotee and the
appreciative instinct of a craftsman.</p>
<p>Incident by incident in the beautiful story he identified on the
blurred stone, puzzled here and there by the unfamiliar Greek
convention, but delighted as a child at each new trove. Where the
sequence failed, as in the Annunciation, the Curator supplied it from
his mound of books—French and German, with photographs and
reproductions.</p>
<p>Here was the devout Asita, the pendant of Simeon in the Christian
story, holding the Holy Child on his knee while mother and father
listened; and here were incidents in the legend of the cousin
Devadatta. Here was the wicked woman who accused the Master of
impurity, all confounded; here was the teaching in the Deer-park; the
miracle that stunned the fire-worshippers; here was the Bodhisat in
royal state as a prince; the miraculous birth; the death at Kusinagara,
where the weak disciple fainted; while there were almost countless
repetitions of the meditation under the Bodhi tree; and the adoration
of the alms-bowl was everywhere. In a few minutes the Curator saw that
his guest was no mere bead-telling mendicant, but a scholar of parts.
And they went at it all over again, the lama taking snuff, wiping his
spectacles, and talking at railway speed in a bewildering mixture of
Urdu and Tibetan. He had heard of the travels of the Chinese pilgrims,
Fu-Hiouen and Hwen-Tsiang, and was anxious to know if there was any
translation of their record. He drew in his breath as he turned
helplessly over the pages of Beal and Stanislas Julien. ''Tis all
here. A treasure locked.' Then he composed himself reverently to
listen to fragments hastily rendered into Urdu. For the first time he
heard of the labours of European scholars, who by the help of these and
a hundred other documents have identified the Holy Places of Buddhism.
Then he was shown a mighty map, spotted and traced with yellow. The
brown finger followed the Curator's pencil from point to point. Here
was Kapilavastu, here the Middle Kingdom, and here Mahabodhi, the Mecca
of Buddhism; and here was Kusinagara, sad place of the Holy One's
death. The old man bowed his head over the sheets in silence for a
while, and the Curator lit another pipe. Kim had fallen asleep. When
he waked, the talk, still in spate, was more within his comprehension.</p>
<p>'And thus it was, O Fountain of Wisdom, that I decided to go to the
Holy Places which His foot had trod—to the Birthplace, even to Kapila;
then to Mahabodhi, which is Buddh Gaya—to the Monastery—to the
Deer-park—to the place of His death.'</p>
<p>The lama lowered his voice. 'And I come here alone. For
five—seven—eighteen—forty years it was in my mind that the Old Law
was not well followed; being overlaid, as thou knowest, with devildom,
charms, and idolatry. Even as the child outside said but now. Ay,
even as the child said, with but-parasti.'</p>
<p>'So it comes with all faiths.'</p>
<p>'Thinkest thou? The books of my lamassery I read, and they were dried
pith; and the later ritual with which we of the Reformed Law have
cumbered ourselves—that, too, had no worth to these old eyes. Even
the followers of the Excellent One are at feud on feud with one
another. It is all illusion. Ay, maya, illusion. But I have another
desire'—the seamed yellow face drew within three inches of the
Curator, and the long forefinger-nail tapped on the table. 'Your
scholars, by these books, have followed the Blessed Feet in all their
wanderings; but there are things which they have not sought out. I
know nothing—nothing do I know—but I go to free myself from the Wheel
of Things by a broad and open road.' He smiled with most simple
triumph. 'As a pilgrim to the Holy Places I acquire merit. But there
is more. Listen to a true thing. When our gracious Lord, being as yet
a youth, sought a mate, men said, in His father's Court, that He was
too tender for marriage. Thou knowest?'</p>
<p>The Curator nodded, wondering what would come next.</p>
<p>'So they made the triple trial of strength against all comers. And at
the test of the Bow, our Lord first breaking that which they gave Him,
called for such a bow as none might bend. Thou knowest?'</p>
<p>'It is written. I have read.'</p>
<p>'And, overshooting all other marks, the arrow passed far and far beyond
sight. At the last it fell; and, where it touched earth, there broke
out a stream which presently became a River, whose nature, by our
Lord's beneficence, and that merit He acquired ere He freed himself, is
that whoso bathes in it washes away all taint and speckle of sin.'</p>
<p>'So it is written,' said the Curator sadly.</p>
<p>The lama drew a long breath. 'Where is that River? Fountain of
Wisdom, where fell the arrow?'</p>
<p>'Alas, my brother, I do not know,' said the Curator.</p>
<p>'Nay, if it please thee to forget—the one thing only that thou hast
not told me. Surely thou must know? See, I am an old man! I ask with
my head between thy feet, O Fountain of Wisdom. We know He drew the
bow! We know the arrow fell! We know the stream gushed! Where, then,
is the River? My dream told me to find it. So I came. I am here. But
where is the River?'</p>
<p>'If I knew, think you I would not cry it aloud?'</p>
<p>'By it one attains freedom from the Wheel of Things,' the lama went on,
unheeding. 'The River of the Arrow! Think again! Some little stream,
maybe—dried in the heats? But the Holy One would never so cheat an
old man.'</p>
<p>'I do not know. I do not know.'</p>
<p>The lama brought his thousand-wrinkled face once more a handsbreadth
from the Englishman's. 'I see thou dost not know. Not being of the
Law, the matter is hid from thee.'</p>
<p>'Ay—hidden—hidden.'</p>
<p>'We are both bound, thou and I, my brother. But I'—he rose with a
sweep of the soft thick drapery—'I go to cut myself free. Come also!'</p>
<p>'I am bound,' said the Curator. 'But whither goest thou?'</p>
<p>'First to Kashi [Benares]: where else? There I shall meet one of the
pure faith in a Jain temple of that city. He also is a Seeker in
secret, and from him haply I may learn. Maybe he will go with me to
Buddh Gaya. Thence north and west to Kapilavastu, and there will I
seek for the River. Nay, I will seek everywhere as I go—for the place
is not known where the arrow fell.'</p>
<p>'And how wilt thou go? It is a far cry to Delhi, and farther to
Benares.'</p>
<p>'By road and the trains. From Pathankot, having left the Hills, I came
hither in a te-rain. It goes swiftly. At first I was amazed to see
those tall poles by the side of the road snatching up and snatching up
their threads,'—he illustrated the stoop and whirl of a telegraph-pole
flashing past the train. 'But later, I was cramped and desired to
walk, as I am used.'</p>
<p>'And thou art sure of thy road?' said the Curator.</p>
<p>'Oh, for that one but asks a question and pays money, and the appointed
persons despatch all to the appointed place. That much I knew in my
lamassery from sure report,' said the lama proudly.</p>
<p>'And when dost thou go?' The Curator smiled at the mixture of
old-world piety and modern progress that is the note of India today.</p>
<p>'As soon as may be. I follow the places of His life till I come to the
River of the Arrow. There is, moreover, a written paper of the hours
of the trains that go south.'</p>
<p>'And for food?' Lamas, as a rule, have good store of money somewhere
about them, but the Curator wished to make sure.</p>
<p>'For the journey, I take up the Master's begging-bowl. Yes. Even as
He went so go I, forsaking the ease of my monastery. There was with me
when I left the hills a chela [disciple] who begged for me as the Rule
demands, but halting in Kulu awhile a fever took him and he died. I
have now no chela, but I will take the alms-bowl and thus enable the
charitable to acquire merit.' He nodded his head valiantly. Learned
doctors of a lamassery do not beg, but the lama was an enthusiast in
this quest.</p>
<p>'Be it so,' said the Curator, smiling. 'Suffer me now to acquire
merit. We be craftsmen together, thou and I. Here is a new book of
white English paper: here be sharpened pencils two and three—thick
and thin, all good for a scribe. Now lend me thy spectacles.'</p>
<p>The Curator looked through them. They were heavily scratched, but the
power was almost exactly that of his own pair, which he slid into the
lama's hand, saying: 'Try these.'</p>
<p>'A feather! A very feather upon the face.' The old man turned his
head delightedly and wrinkled up his nose. 'How scarcely do I feel
them! How clearly do I see!'</p>
<p>'They be bilaur—crystal—and will never scratch. May they help thee
to thy River, for they are thine.'</p>
<p>'I will take them and the pencils and the white note-book,' said the
lama, 'as a sign of friendship between priest and priest—and now—' He
fumbled at his belt, detached the open-work iron pincers, and laid it
on the Curator's table. 'That is for a memory between thee and me—my
pencase. It is something old—even as I am.'</p>
<p>It was a piece of ancient design, Chinese, of an iron that is not
smelted these days; and the collector's heart in the Curator's bosom
had gone out to it from the first. For no persuasion would the lama
resume his gift.</p>
<p>'When I return, having found the River, I will bring thee a written
picture of the Padma Samthora such as I used to make on silk at the
lamassery. Yes—and of the Wheel of Life,' he chuckled, 'for we be
craftsmen together, thou and I.'</p>
<p>The Curator would have detained him: they are few in the world who
still have the secret of the conventional brush-pen Buddhist pictures
which are, as it were, half written and half drawn. But the lama
strode out, head high in air, and pausing an instant before the great
statue of a Bodhisat in meditation, brushed through the turnstiles.</p>
<p>Kim followed like a shadow. What he had overheard excited him wildly.
This man was entirely new to all his experience, and he meant to
investigate further, precisely as he would have investigated a new
building or a strange festival in Lahore city. The lama was his trove,
and he purposed to take possession. Kim's mother had been Irish, too.</p>
<p>The old man halted by Zam-Zammah and looked round till his eye fell on
Kim. The inspiration of his pilgrimage had left him for awhile, and he
felt old, forlorn, and very empty.</p>
<p>'Do not sit under that gun,' said the policeman loftily.</p>
<p>'Huh! Owl!' was Kim's retort on the lama's behalf. 'Sit under that
gun if it please thee. When didst thou steal the milkwoman's slippers,
Dunnoo?'</p>
<p>That was an utterly unfounded charge sprung on the spur of the moment,
but it silenced Dunnoo, who knew that Kim's clear yell could call up
legions of bad bazaar boys if need arose.</p>
<p>'And whom didst thou worship within?' said Kim affably, squatting in
the shade beside the lama.</p>
<p>'I worshipped none, child. I bowed before the Excellent Law.'</p>
<p>Kim accepted this new God without emotion. He knew already a few score.</p>
<p>'And what dost thou do?'</p>
<p>'I beg. I remember now it is long since I have eaten or drunk. What is
the custom of charity in this town? In silence, as we do of Tibet, or
speaking aloud?'</p>
<p>'Those who beg in silence starve in silence,' said Kim, quoting a
native proverb. The lama tried to rise, but sank back again, sighing
for his disciple, dead in far-away Kulu. Kim watched head to one side,
considering and interested.</p>
<p>'Give me the bowl. I know the people of this city—all who are
charitable. Give, and I will bring it back filled.'</p>
<p>Simply as a child the old man handed him the bowl.</p>
<p>'Rest, thou. I know the people.'</p>
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