<h2 class='c007'>CHAPTER XXII</h2>
<p class='c011'>A JOURNEY TO THE ELEPHANT COUNTRY—SERIOUS
ANNOYANCE FROM FLIES, WASPS, AND MOSQUITOES—IN
THE MIDST OF A DROVE OF HIPPOPOTAMI.</p>
<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c012'>I was anxious to go on a long hunting expedition.
One day when Regundo, Oshoria, Ogoola, Ngola,
Quabi, and I were seated under a big tree, I said to
them: “We must go and hunt elephants, hippopotami,
crocodiles, and other big game.” This suggestion
was received with sonorous grunts of approbation by
them all, and it was agreed that we should prepare
ourselves for a long expedition.</p>
<p class='c013'>The following day I saw Oshoria slyly entering the
idol house, and after he had closed the door behind
him I approached the house and, peeping through a
crack, saw that he was marking his body with ochre
of different colors. Then he muttered words to the
idol that I could not understand. Afterwards he took
from a little wooden box a piece of red ochre and
made a mark with it between his eyes, and another
mark in the hollow of his chest, and then spoke very
fast. Then he went to another box, and took from it
a charmed necklace, to which was hung a sort of small
<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>iron bell, which was filled with charmed powder and
which he put around his neck. When I saw that he
was ready to come out I retired as quickly as possible.</p>
<p class='c013'>For three days great preparations were made for
our hunting expedition. The wives of the hunters
prepared food for us. Dear Regundo invoked every
evening the spirits of his ancestors to protect us. The
ouganga or medicine doctor, made incantations for
our success, and said that we were to be lucky.</p>
<p class='c013'>We started with two canoes, the people following
us to the banks of the river. As the day advanced it
became very warm, for there was not a breath of wind
on the river. It was a good day for flies; they plagued
us sadly, attacking us with great persistency. I was
kept busy all the time handling my elephant-tail to
protect myself against them, but when they got
between its long, coarse, black hairs it meant death to
them. My eyes had to be everywhere in order to
watch for them, and my ears very quick to find out
where they were flying; but in spite of all my watchfulness
they succeeded in giving me now and then a
sting.</p>
<p class='c013'>Suddenly we would hear a sharp whiz; then the men
would shout at once: “Look out, there is an ibolay
flying around.” They were not mistaken. There
was an ibolay, flying with such rapidity that he was no
<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>sooner seen than lost to sight. I kept a sharp lookout
for him, ready to strike with my elephant’s tail,
but I was stung twice by one during the day. It was
worse than the sting of a bee. I had to be quiet, for
it would not have done for an Oguizi to utter cries of
pain, but it was very hard sometimes not to do so.</p>
<p class='c013'>Another fly, the iboca, of the size of a hornet, also
quick in its motion, gave the severest bite of all;
my clothes were no protection whatever. Often the
blood ran down the face or body of the men that were
bitten. The fly that annoyed us most was the
nchouna, which was very numerous. We could not tell
of its approach, for it came unobserved and silently
and had inserted its bill so gently that it got its
fill of blood before we knew we were bitten. Afterwards
the itching began, and lasted several hours,
varied at intervals by certain sharp stabs of pain. We
paddled as often as we could under the branches of
trees overhanging the water, to be protected from the
powerful sun. Once, to our utter dismay, our canoe
went bang into an elonay’s nest. The elonay is a very
fierce wasp. There are no flies the natives dread so
much. The men shouted: “The elonays are after
us; let us get out of the way,” and we paddled as fast
as we could, to be out of their reach. Ogoola, Ngola,
and Quabi seemed to be the men they chiefly
<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>attacked. These threw themselves into the water.
They did not think of crocodiles or anything else.
They kept under water quite a while, and after a time
came back on board. The bite of the elonays is very
painful. It leaves an acrid poison, which causes
pain for two or three days. At intervals the poison
seems to gather fresh force, and the wound begins to
throb.</p>
<p class='c013'>That night we slept in our canoes. During the
night there was a constant howling of wild beasts. I
thought the forest was full of leopards, hyenas, and
unknown fierce creatures. Fortunately, our canoes
were at anchor far away from the banks, and the hungry
animals could not reach or spring upon us. Evidently
they scented us, and would have been delighted
to make a meal of some of our number.</p>
<p class='c013'>The mosquitoes troubled us so much that we were
glad when morning came. Then we were bothered
by sand-flies. These disappeared when the sun became
powerful enough to drive them away, but the flies that
delight in the sun and the heat of the day took their
place. The rivers are far worse than the forest in
regard to flies.</p>
<p class='c013'>Suddenly Oshoria, who steered my canoe, shouted:
“Ngooboos [hippopotami] ahead.” Then he added:
“They are in the middle of the stream; let us go near
<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>the shore.” The men stopped paddling, and we all
looked in the direction in which Oshoria pointed, and saw
a herd of hippopotami, looking like stranded logs on the
water, for they did not move. We paddled slowly
and noiselessly close to the shore, so that the huge
beasts could not see us. We came nearer and nearer
to them every minute. I counted twenty-two hippopotami.</p>
<p class='c013'>My attention was suddenly attracted to a part of the
river where I heard peculiar loud sounds, or grunts.
Looking in that direction, I saw two bull hippopotami
by themselves, fighting with each other. They rushed
towards each other,—then disappeared under the
water, and reappeared again. Their big, ugly mouths,
when opened, showed us their tusks. They attacked
with great fierceness, lacerating each other’s bodies
with their crooked tusks. Finally one was victorious,
and the other swam away as fast as he could.</p>
<div id='t162' class='figcenter id002'>
<ANTIMG src='images/p1621_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' />
<div class='ic001'>
<p>“<i>Their big, ugly mouths when opened, showed us their tusks</i>”</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>We approached the hippopotami slowly and with
caution, to within fifty yards of the herd, without
seeming to attract their attention. “Let us paddle
nearer,” I said to the men. We came within twenty-five
yards, and then I took “Bulldog,” and aiming
at the ear, as one of their vulnerable spots, I
fired. The animal sank. I found that it was of no
use to kill a hippopotamus in the water, for they sink
to the bottom. The whole herd of hippopotami
became much excited at the shot, snorted and plunged
under the water,—disappearing and reappearing,—and
soon the animals were seen scattered in every
direction around us. They dived, and when they
rose some of them came dangerously near. I became
fearful they would upset our canoes, and that if they
succeeded in doing so, they would attack us, and their
big crooked tusks were sure to make short work of
our poor bodies. Oshoria ordered that we should
paddle as fast as we could to get out of their way. One
of the hippopotami swam under our canoe, and rose
about three yards from us. But we kept on our way
untouched, and a few miles further upstream we came
to another herd of these unwieldy creatures, sporting
and snorting in the water, now popping their huge
unshapely heads out, then diving to the bottom.</p>
<p class='c013'>We passed this herd, and after paddling two or three
miles further we saw two cow hippopotami, with their
little ones apparently resting on their backs.</p>
<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>
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