<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></SPAN>CHAPTER X.</h2>
<p class="topnote">ADVENTURES OF A SHIPWRECKED CREW.</p>
<p><span class="smcap">The</span> hotel to which we had been brought upon
our arrival was, although the only one in the place,
far too small to stand the strain of such an influx
of visitors as we were, as far as sleeping accommodation
went. Therefore arrangements were
made for our lodgment in an empty house in town,
while for all meals we were to return to the hotel.
To this sheltering place we were escorted by a delighted
band of darkies, who insisted upon carrying
such traps as we possessed, and also worked
like bees to sweep and cleanse the house. Such
bedding as we had was spread upon the floor in a
big front-room, and in Oriental fashion; with the
sailor's ready adaptability to circumstances, we
made ourselves comfortable. We had plenty of
company, for the whole coloured population made
holiday and visited us. Few came empty handed,
the majority bringing such gifts as they thought
would please us: mostly fruit, tobacco, and rum.
There was such abundance of the latter, that by
dinner-time there was a universal debauch, from
which I gladly escaped. Making my way down to
the beach I found the work of salvage in full swing,
for the hull of the ship had broken apart so much<span class="pagenum">[127]</span>
that the floatable cargo was coming ashore in
great quantities. Puncheons of rum, bundles of
walking-sticks, cakes of bees-wax and innumerable
cocoa-nuts were heaped in scattered piles upon the
beach, each of which was guarded by some one,
whose allies were either scouring the shores or
paddling furiously after some piece of flotsam apparently
worth pursuit. Everywhere I found
friends. Such a godsend as this had not fallen to
the lot of the dusky Falmouthians before, and they
were willing to recognise even the humblest member
of the crew as in some sense a benefactor.
When I got tired of roaming about the beach, I
sought the hotel for something more satisfying
than fruit, and was received by the host's buxom
daughter, Marian, with great delight. She had
taken charge of my hatful of kittens, and showed
me, with manifest pride, how comfortable the old
cat and her blind progeny had been made. Ungrateful
puss would hardly recognise me, her
changed circumstances had made her forget old
but humble friends.</p>
<p>Noticing that I limped considerably, Marian
inquired anxiously whether I had cut my foot,
which made me smile, since, not having worn
boots for months, my natural soles were almost
as hard as tanned leather. But I admitted that
there was something hurting me a great deal, upon
which she peremptorily ordered me to sit down
while she had a look. A short search resulted in
her finding the place, which she proceeded to investigate
with a needle, and presently drew therefrom
a bag about as large as a marrowfat pea,<span class="pagenum">[128]</span>
which she opened, and showed me was full of tiny
eggs. "You'se had dem chigoes mighty bad,
chile," she said, "but I gwineter put stop to 'em
right now." With that she went and fetched a
tub of warm water. After bathing my feet thoroughly,
she searched most carefully for more of
these pests, finding two other nests, full like the
first, of eggs, but which had caused me only a
slight itching sensation. Having removed all she
could see, she made a vile compound of tobacco-ash
and kerosene, which she rubbed into the
wounds, causing me exquisite pain. It took all
my fortitude to keep from screaming, and I was
unable to prevent a few big tears dropping. With
many strange words of endearment she assured me
of her sympathy, but declared this heroic treatment
to be the only way of effecting a radical cure.
I have no doubt that she firmly believed in her
treatment, and I must admit that in the end it was
certainly effectual; but it was so harsh that I was
quite crippled for over a week. During this miserable
time I was a close prisoner in our empty
house, being generally alone during the day, while
through most of the night the drunken antics of
my shipmates kept me in constant terror. Nevertheless
there was some slight consolation, for by
some means it had got about that I could sing,
and I was sent for by the officers of the garrison to
warble some of my simple ditties for their amusement.
As I was unable to walk, the messengers
made a rude litter, upon which they carried me to
the hotel, where I was propped up in an armchair
while I sang. The generosity of the officers provided<span class="pagenum">[129]</span>
me with plenty of money, unfortunately of
no service to me, since I dared not refuse the constant
demands of my shipmates, who, of course,
had none of their own. I made two or three
friends among the better-class people in the town,
who gave me quite a respectable bag of half-worn
clothes, and also promised their aid in other directions.</p>
<p>At last, after the lapse of three weeks, during
which time a perfunctory sort of inquiry into the
loss of the vessel was held, and the captain acquitted
of all blame, it was decided to send all the crew
round to Kingston, whence we might get shipped
home. A small schooner was chartered for this
purpose, as no steamers ran round the island; and
after considerable delay, provisions for three days
were put on board, and we set sail, doubtless much
to the relief of those worthies who had been
obliged to feed such a hungry horde as we were.
But, to our great disgust, we found at the first
meal-time that, in addition to the stock of food
being disgracefully small, it consisted solely of
ship-biscuit, yams, and salt beef of the worst sort.
If the kind providers of this outfit could have been
affected by the maledictions of our party, they certainly
would not have survived the first day of our
voyage; after that, the subject dropped from very
monotony. Calms and light airs prevailed, and
all faces began to lengthen when, on the evening
of the third day, the cook announced that the last
of the supply of food was before us for supper,
while our passage was only beginning. Luckily a
young shark was caught, making us a meagre<span class="pagenum">[Pg 130]</span>
breakfast. Then hunger stared us in the face.
We were at least fifteen miles off the land, with a
dead calm, and nothing but water left to supply
the needs of fourteen hungry men. No fish came
to our hooks, no vessels came near us, and, as there
was nothing whatever to occupy the men's minds,
the subject of food-supply was soon discussed
threadbare. Then, as often happens among crews
similarly situated, the possibility of there being a
Jonah among us was mooted, and called forth an
amazing variety of opinions and reminiscences.
Unhappily for me, the bo'sun was indiscreet
enough to let out the story of my behaviour at
the time of the vessel's striking on the reef. He
told it laughingly, referring, with a good deal of
satisfaction, to the swinging kick he had dealt me,
the bruise from which had not even then disappeared.
But the effect of his statement upon those
ignorant and frightened men was most strange and
significant. They accepted it without question as
positive proof: first, that all their misfortunes were
due to the presence of a Jonah among them, and,
secondly, that I was that Jonah!</p>
<p>It may be found difficult of belief that, among
the crew of a London ship in the year 1871, such a
thing should have been possible; but I solemnly
declare it to be true that they at once decided that
unless I were cast overboard they would never
reach Kingston. I was immediately seized by
them and commanded to say my prayers quickly,
as I had only a few minutes to live. I looked at
those cruel, brutish faces and saw no gleam of pity;
I cried for mercy in incoherent terms while they<span class="pagenum">[Pg 131]</span>
only scowled. With trembling lips, and scarcely
beating heart, I tried to do as they told me—say
my prayers; but my senses were fast leaving me,
and I do not really know what I did say. Then
one of them tied my hands behind my back with a
bit of fishing-line; and this act first seemed to
awaken the three negroes, who were the crew of
the schooner, to the fact that murder was intended.
It almost drove them crazy with fear and horror.
Regardless of the odds against them, they rushed
to my rescue, only to be beaten back with the assurance
that little would make my tormenters
serve them the same. The bitterness of death was
almost past, when, to my unbounded amazement,
and renewing all my hopes of life, help came from
the most unexpected quarter. The bo'sun, who, I
do not think, had realized himself how far in earnest
they were until then, suddenly bestirred himself,
making one stride across the deck to where I lay,
hardly conscious. Oh, how god-like I thought
him! The scene returns to me across the chasm
of years as vividly as a photograph. His manly
figure, erect before my poor little shrinking body,
and the sweep of his strong right arm as he drove
those bloodthirsty pagans back, will never fade
from my mind. "That's enough now," he said,
"ye —— idiots. Did ye think I was goin' ter
let yer drown the kid? S'elp me, ef I thought
yer really meant it, damfi wouldn't drown two or
three of ye meself, ye yelpin' cowardly scum!"
For a short minute or so they faced him, their
eyes glaring with the lust of superstitious cruelty,
and then (it should be remembered that there were<span class="pagenum">[Pg 132]</span>
ten of them) they slank away, muttering blasphemies
between their clenched teeth. With a bitter
laugh of derision he stooped and cut my hands
adrift from the lashing, and then resumed his pipe
as if nothing extraordinary had happened. It
hardly needs saying that I cowered close to his
side, nor did I once get out of arm's length of him
during the remainder of that passage.</p>
<p>Happily for us a breeze sprang up, sending the
schooner bustling along at a good rate into the
harbour of Savannah Le Mar, where we arrived
late that evening. By some means or other, which
I don't understand, considering our penniless condition,
a good supply of yams, salt fish, and water
was obtained, and we set sail again at about ten
p. m. by the light of the incandescent moon. Our
troubles were at an end for the time, the wind holding
strong and fair; so that in less than forty-eight
hours we were running in swiftly past Port Royal
and up to the wharves at Kingston.</p>
<p>It probably had never occurred to any one of
us to doubt that when we arrived there it would
be all plain sailing for us. As shipwrecked seamen,
and in a British port, we naturally supposed
that all we needed to do was to march in a body
to the Sailors' Home, show our credentials, and be
received with the warmest of welcomes. And the
rest of our stay, until ships were found for us to
go home again in, would, of course, be one delightful
round of eating, drinking, and sleeping,
varied by such amusements as the place afforded.
Accordingly, every man shouldered his belongings,
and off we marched, guided by friendly darkies,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 133]</span>
to the Sailors' Home, which we entered with
the air of proprietors. It was a fine, large building,
with a double row of verandahs and an air of
coolness and comfort extremely grateful to us
after our miserable trip in the schooner. We were
received with great courtesy, and shown to the
dormitory, which, with its rows of clean beds and
white mosquito-curtains, looked like fairyland.
We were told that breakfast would be ready in a
few minutes; so all hands had a good wash, hastening
down grubwards at the first stroke of the welcome
bell. There appeared to be scarcely any
other boarders; at any rate, there were none visible
then. Coffee and bread were brought, and
then a white man came, who introduced himself
as the superintendent. He called our attention
to the fact that there were three tariffs here, according
to the kind of food desired, and wished to
know which of them we would choose. The bo'sun
replied that, as we were the guests of our country,
we might as well have the best, and added
that, as we were somewhat sharp-set, the sooner
we got it the happier we should be. "Oh," said
the official; "if that's the case, I'm afraid I can't
take you in. I've had no orders; and our rule
here is payment in advance." Blank amazement
overspread every face, and half a dozen voices
volubly attempted to explain the situation. But
to all remarks, remonstrances, and objurgations,
the superintendent was adamant. He had no
doubt it was all true enough; but he had no instructions
on our behalf, and, until he had, we could
either pay or go. When asked who we ought to<span class="pagenum">[134]</span>
apply to, he was blandly ignorant; but it was increasingly
evident that he wanted us gone very
badly.</p>
<p class="spacer"> </p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="illo_133" id="illo_133"></SPAN> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/illo_157.jpg" alt="157" /></div>
<p class="caption">For a short minute or so they faced him, their eyes glaring with the
lust of superstitious cruelty.</p>
<p>Well, there was no help for it, and so, breakfastless
and dispirited, we started off again to the
town, intending to go to the shipping-office, as
the only place we could think of. In a foreign
port we should, of course, have gone to the consul
at once; but here, under our own flag, no one
knew what to do. Our escort of negroes grew
quite imposing as we trudged along, and the news
of our reception passed from mouth to mouth.
Floods of advice were poured upon us by our sable
friends, and offers of hospitality also without limit.
Indeed, had any of our crowd been orators, there
seemed to be all the materials necessary for a very
decent riot. But, peaceably enough, we reached
the shipping-office, where we asked humbly if we
might see his high-mightiness the shipping-master.
After keeping us waiting for nearly an hour, this
gentleman came out, and in bullying tones demanded
our business. Our spokesman, the bo'sun,
laid our hard case before him in a most respectful
manner; but before he had finished his
story the shipping-master cut him short, roughly
telling him that we had no business to come there
whining, and that he had nothing to do with us.
And with that he ordered us out of the office. Utterly
amazed and dispirited at this treatment, we
retired. Upon reaching the street we were surrounded
at once by the friendly darkies, who made
good their previous promises by carrying all hands
off to breakfast in their several huts, talking and<span class="pagenum">[135]</span>
gesticulating violently all the time. Fortunately I
remembered that I had a letter of introduction to
a gentleman in the town; so, refusing all offers of
hospitality, I hurried off to present it. I was not
very cordially received; but a note to the superintendent
of the Sailors' Home was at once given
me, which procured me instant admission to that
institution, with a right to the best entertainment
they could give.</p>
<p>Meanwhile the crew had formulated a plan of
campaign, romantic enough, but promising well.
It should be remembered that Port Royal, at the
entrance to Kingston Harbour is, or was, one of
our most important colonial naval stations. A
huge old line-of-battle ship, called the <i>Aboukir</i>,
was then the guard-ship, and lay moored opposite
the dockyard at Port Royal, several miles from
Kingston. A deputation of two, one of which was
the bo'sun, determined to board the guard-ship and
lay the case before the commodore, feeling, like all
British seamen abroad, that, although not to be
lightly approached, the captain of a British man-o'-war
could always be depended upon to see justice
done to any sailor, however humble. Accordingly,
they availed themselves of a friendly fisherman's
canoe, and immediately set out on their long
paddle down the bay to Port Royal. At the same
time the elderly Irishman before spoken of, volunteered
to tramp out to Spanish Town, the residence
of the Governor of Jamaica—a distance of
about ten miles, as nearly as I can remember. He
said he was well used to the road, having tramped
between nearly every seaport in England. And<span class="pagenum">[136]</span>
so, while the majority of the crew lay around in
the shade discussing the situation over and over
again with a deeply interested crowd of darkies,
male and female, the messenger fared forth. The
Port Royal deputation reached their goal first,
and, climbing up the steep side of the great guard-ship,
saluted, and asked to see the commodore.
They were promptly conducted aft before this officer,
who listened patiently to their yarn, and did
not interrupt them in its recital. When they
ceased speaking, he said, "Is that all, my men?"
"Yes, yer honour." "Then go forward and get
some food at once, and, when you have done so,
the second lieutenant will return with you. You
shall be cared for. Good morning." With a salute
they retreated, and, not being hungry, received
a tot of grog instead. Then, to their astonishment
and delight, they saw a natty little
steam-launch alongside, into which they were invited
to descend. A smart young lieutenant in
full uniform joined them, the white-clad crew
jumped in, and away they went back to Kingston.
Long before they arrived at the landing-place the
anxious watchers had descried them, and, when
they touched land, there was quite an excited
crowd ready to welcome them. Straight to the
shipping-office went the lieutenant, and at his brief
request the shipping-master was immediately
forthcoming. Without wasting a word the lieutenant
came to the point, demanding to know
whether his commanding officer had been rightly
informed by these men of the state of their case.
As the facts were undeniable there was little reply.<span class="pagenum">[137]</span>
Sternly, scornfully, the young officer reminded the
discomfited official of his obvious duty to British
seamen in distress, with an expression of wonder
at its being necessary for him to do so. "You
will be good enough to see all these men's wants
immediately attended to, and a passage home
found for them at the earliest possible opportunity.
The commodore trusts he will hear no more complaints
of a like nature." Then, turning on his
heel, the lieutenant bade our delighted fellows
good day, returning to his launch amid the cheers
of the darkies. A clerk was at once sent with the
men to the "Home" with instructions to the superintendent,
and the trouble was over.</p>
<p>Not so those of the unfortunate shipping-master,
who must have been heartily sorry for his
foolish behaviour. For late in the afternoon our
other messenger returned in state from Spanish
Town in one of the governor's carriages, accompanied
by a secretary who bore a message from the
governor that made the shipping-master quake.
He could only return an abject apology, with an
assurance that the shipwrecked crew were now
well cared-for, and that nothing on his part should
be lacking for their comfort. But, though we
heard no more of the affair, I doubt very much
whether the shipping-master did. From the stir
the event made in Kingston, I am inclined to think
it was a long time before he was permitted to forget
it.</p>
<p>For about a fortnight I had a rattling good
time in Kingston. Confident in the assurance
that I should not be forgotten whenever a chance<span class="pagenum">[138]</span>
presented itself of getting away, I cast all care to
the winds, and set about enjoying myself all I
knew how. Moonlight fishing-excursions in ramshackle
canoes to sheltered coves around the great
harbour, long rambles in the wonderful brakes and
jungles with darkies, that, though men in years,
were children in their fresh enjoyment of everything;
singing-parties along the beautiful beaches
in the silky evenings, and all with never a thought
of to-morrow—oh, it was heavenly! I scarcely
saw anything of my shipmates. I didn't want to.
My new associates, although black, were full of
kindliness, and as pleased with me as I was with
them; what wonder that I avoided, as far as I
could, any intercourse with men whose presence
only reminded me of miserable days better forgotten.
Out of the many incidents that are mellowed
by time into a haze of half recollection, one grotesque
affair stands out sharply, and even now
makes me quiver with laughter as its vivid details
reappear. A favourite pastime with the <i>élite</i> of the
coloured population was to gather in large numbers,
dressed in all their finery, upon an old disused
pier, whose crazy piles and beams actually swayed
with a stronger breeze than usual. Upon this ancient
structure, when the day's work was over, the
young men and women would frisk or loll about,
according to their humour; but their chief amusement
was the singing of chanties, camp-meeting
hymns, and, in fact, anything with a rousing chorus
in which all hands could join. On the night in
question, song had succeeded song until somebody
sent an electric thrill through the whole gathering<span class="pagenum">[139]</span>
by starting the negroes' great anthem of freedom,
"Marching through Georgia." You could hear
the pulses of that great crowd beat while they
waited breathlessly for the last word of the sonorous
verse; and then, in one tremendous burst of
melody, every one lifted up heart and voice, while
from far-away fishermen on the bay and labourers
on the hills the inspiring chorus rolled on. As
verse succeeded verse the enthusiasm rose to fever-heat;
every one sprang to their feet, waving their
arms and stamping in unison until the crazy structure
upon which they stood trembled to its
ancient foundations. It was a wonderful sight,
having its ludicrous side, doubtless; but the high
seriousness, and irrepressible energy of the actors,
prevented all desire to laugh. Suddenly, in the
height of the chorus, there was a rending crash,
and the entire fabric collapsed in one chaotic heap
of disjointed timbers and shrieking humanity into
the placid waters beneath. No one was hurt, for
the tide was high, and every darky swam like a
fish; but the scene of mad merriment on the
beach, as one draggled figure after another
emerged from the wreckage, was indescribable.
Not until long after midnight did the peals of
laughter entirely cease, for they rose again and
again in all quarters of the town, as the participants
rehearsed the scene to those who had not
been fortunate enough to witness it.</p>
<p>I had begun to feel as if I had always lived
there, and the thought of leaving had quite disappeared
from my mind, when one day I received a
note from the gentleman to whom I had brought<span class="pagenum">[140]</span>
the letter of introduction, telling me to go on
board a large steamer, which had arrived at Kingston
that morning, as he had seen the captain, and
made arrangements for me to be allowed to work
my passage home.</p>
<hr class="chapter" />
<p><span class="pagenum">[141]</span></p>
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