<h3><SPAN name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></SPAN>CHAPTER VII.</h3>
<p>Our family cared but little for the wrestling exhibition; some people
have a great liking for it. It takes place on an extensive open lot. In
the middle of the field is raised a large, square mound, from the
corners of which rise four posts decorated with red and white cloths,
looking like a barber's sign. They support an awning. The spectators,
too, are shielded from the sun with cheap mats strapped together. On the
mound is described a circle, within which the matches take place. The
two opposite parties are called East and West respectively. The umpire
in kamishimo (ceremonial garb) calls out a champion from each side by
his professional name so loudly as to be heard all over the place. The
names are derived from the mighty objects in nature, such as mountain,
river, ocean, storm, wind, thunder, lightning, forest, crag, etc. The
two naked, gigantic, muscular fellows slowly ascend the arena, drink a
little water from ladles, take pinches of common salt from small baskets
hanging on two of the posts and, looking up reverently to a paper god
fastened to the awning, throw the salt around. It is an act of
purification, and while doing it each prays secretly for his own
success. Then they stamp heavily on the ground, with their hands on
their bent knees and their hips lowered, in order to get the muscles
ready for action. Now they face each other in a low sitting posture like
that of a frog; at the word of signal from the umpire they instantly
spring up, and each tries to throw the other or push him out of the
circular arena. There are many professional tricks that they deal out in
the struggle for supremacy. As soon as the point is decided the umpire
indicates the victors side with his Chinese fan. Then follows the
demonstration of joy among the patrons of the successful almost as
boisterous and enthusiastic as that of the young American collegians at
their grand athletic contests. The thousands sitting hitherto well
behaved on the matted ground rise up at once and make endless tumult;
cups, bottles, empty lacquered boxes fly into the arena from every
direction. Not infrequently a spirited controversy follows a
questionable decision of the umpire. Between the matches gifts from the
patrons are publicly announced and sometimes displayed.</p>
<p>The people sit on the ground, spread with mats, in the open air, and eat
and drink, while they watch the collision of the two mountains of flesh
and its momentous issue. The exhibition cannot very well take place on
rainy days. At the end of a day's performance, all the wrestlers in
gorgeous aprons march to the arena as the umpire claps two blocks of
hard wood, and go through a simple ceremony of stretching the arms in
various directions formally. I never inquired what it was for, my
childish fancy having been turned toward the aprons, which were
oriental gold embroidery-work in relief on velvet, plush and other kinds
of cloth. On the way home the spectators notice on the fences the
announcement of the matches for the morrow. At the close of a series of
the contests, which continue about three days, the favorite wrestlers go
the round of their patrons in tint silk garments.</p>
<p>We were fond of listening to story-tellers. The entertainment takes
place at night in a public hall. A company of story-tellers travel
together under the name of their leader. In the early part of the
evening the unskillful members come out in turn, and serve to kill time
and practice on the audience. On the platform there is nothing to be
seen but a low table and a candle burning on each side of it. A narrator
appears from behind the curtain on the back of the platform, and sits at
the table on a cushion and makes a profound bow. Then he takes a sip of
tea, stops the samisen playing by banging upon the table with two fans
wrapped in leather; he murmurs a courteous welcome to the audience, bows
repeatedly, and, after snuffing the candles, proceeds with a story. The
stories are chiefly humorous or witty until toward the end of the
evening, when the abler men make their appearance and the tenor of the
narrative insensibly takes on a serious aspect and a tragic interest.
The comic stories invariably terminate with sprightly puns, the tragic
in a spectacular representation of ghosts and spirits. An awful tale of
murder, let us suppose, has been told in an impressive manner; and while
the imaginary murderer and the actual listeners are seeing strange
sights in fancy, the narrator unobserved turns down the lights and
tumbles off the platform. In the following darkness the ghosts stalk in
a ray of pale light; they are the story-tellers themselves in masks, and
they sometimes walk down the aisles to the terror of those that believe
in them. I could not bear the roving apparitions,—I was small
indeed,—and took refuge in the lap of my elder companion, much as
certain birds hide their heads, and think themselves safe. No doubt such
sights as these worked in my infant imagination, and roused in me that
dread of darkness which is so common with the children of Japan.</p>
<p>On fine days in spring our neighborhood went out <i>en masse</i> on excursion
parties. They roamed about the warm green fields at will and gathered in
hand-baskets, half dallying with the sunbeams, various kinds of wild
herbs which are tender and edible, or they feasted in a charming nook
underneath the canopy of cherry blossoms. The pink petals of the full
blown flowers, fanned by a gentle breath of wind, visited the
merry-makers like snow-flakes; a single flake occasionally happening to
fall in the tiny earthen cup of saké, held up by one who stopped and
talked or laughed just as he was putting it to his lips. The party was
wonderfully pleased at that; if they were a poetical club or artistic
coterie such little accidents perhaps elicited short rhythmical
effusions from them, which they would pen on beautiful variegated cards
expressly cut for the purpose. These would be tied to the drooping
branches, that the next party might pause to share in the sentiment of
the present instance. More frequently, however, this is done to leave
some token of the culture and refinement of the clique, or to show off
the individual's finish of hand and elegance of expression. Vanity is at
the bottom of it.</p>
<p>We sat on the scarlet Chinese blanket, spread on the greensward; wine
made every heart buoyant; the happy crew, by and by, sang, played the
samisen and tripped "the light fantastic toe." Indeed, nothing could
call us home, after such enjoyment of a beautiful day, but the reddening
western sky and the falling shades of night.</p>
<p>At Imabari we have an excellent public garden in the ruins of the old
castle. In spring when all the cherry trees bloom in full force, the
scene, surveyed at a distance, looks like the piles of white cloud in
the blue summer sky. You must know the Japanese cultivate the
cherry-tree not for its fruit, but for the beauty of its flowers. If the
tree bears fruit, it is bitter to the taste, worse than your
choke-cherries; nobody stops to pluck it. When past the height of
blooming, the flowers begin to leave the boughs quietly; later they fall
abundantly and quickly, and, alighting on the dirt below, cover it like
a sheet of snow. Trite as this description may appear, it has yet a
charm for me; for the happy time I spent under those blossoms, in that
mellow sun and that soft open air, steals back imperceptibly in my
memory.</p>
<p>In the centre of the garden stands a shrine of the Shinto gods. The
entire ground is considerably elevated above the level of the
surrounding regions, and stone walls hem it in. A belt of deep ditches,
which, in the warlike days of old, stemmed the rush of an invading army,
girdles the base of the steep walls. The neglect of years, passed in
peace, has left it in disrepair. To some of the trenches the ebb and
flow of sea-water have still access, and swarms of big fish and little
fish thrive unmolested, for none but the people that pay for the
privilege are permitted to angle in these fish-ponds. There are also
fresh-water moats; the beds of green pond-weeds and duck's meat closely
patch the sluggish, dark-colored waters. Here grows the famous lotus
plant of the East. It shoots up its broad umbrella-like leaves in
summer, and on the stalks here and there among the leaves open the
Buddhist's pure majestic flowers.</p>
<p>Having heard that the buds unlock in an instant at early dawn with the
noise of percussion, we, the curious, formed a little party for the
purpose of investigating the truth of it. We arose a little after
midnight, gathered together the pledged and groped our way in the dark;
we could scarcely discern one another. By the time, however, we arrived
at our destination, it was close upon daybreak; a party at the further
end of the bank showed darkly against the aurora of the eastern sky, for
the country round was open and nothing stood between us and the sea. We
kept vigil intently; for my part I failed to observe any of the buds
open; having watched a great many at the same time I really watched
none. A clever person instructed me that my whole attention should be
paid to a single bud; for which reason I the next time pitched upon one
particular bud. I kept my eye on it all the morning, looking neither to
the right nor to the left. I was once before provoked at a spiral bud of
morning-glory in my garden, because it intentionally unfurled upon me
when I was looking aside. Accordingly, I took especial care against such
failure on my part; but it all proved vain—the lotus bud was too young
to blossom!</p>
<p>The flowers are very large; white is the common color, but then there is
a rare lovely pink shade. The plant bears edible fruit; the root, too,
is counted a delicacy. By reason of the unknown depth of the black mud,
wherein the roots lie hidden, the plucking of them is very difficult;
the men formerly held in contempt under the name of Etta dive in the
mire and search for them. The prized article is seen, immersed in water,
in grocery stores on sale; no feast of any pretension is complete
without it. When sliced crosswise the renkon (lotus root) shows about
half-a-dozen symmetrical holes; the slices are boiled with the katsuwo
and shoyu and are valued highly for toothsomeness.</p>
<p>Some of the wide ditches were filled up from time to time; and in the
places where fishes had frisked about or warriors tried to float a raft,
farmers were now peacefully hoeing potatoes, or pumpkins basked their
heads in the noontide sun. But the castle, being too colossal to be
pulled down at once, remained entire for a long time, after the feudal
system had been abolished and the Lord of Imabari summoned to Yedo.
Unfortunately, however, the extensive underground powder magazine one
morning caught a spark of fire, and all of a sudden the towers and
palaces blew up with a tremendous explosion. At that period the Japanese
apprehended the possible invasion of the "red-haired devils," the
foreigners; for which reason it was not to be wondered at that the
patriotic citizens of Imabari mistook the earth-rending roar and the
heavy ascending columns of smoke in the direction of the old stronghold
for a cannonade of enemies. The panic it produced in town struck terror
into everybody's heart; the weak and nervous fell into fits. A drizzling
rain since the previous eve rendered the streets excessively wet.
Splashing in the mud and puddles, the heroic of the townsmen, with the
loose dangling skirt of the Japanese garment tucked up through the belt
for action, hurried castleward with the utmost speed, with unsheathed
spear and sword in hand, to the great consternation of the astounded
populace. I was scarcely of an age to comprehend the dire calamity, yet
the scene impressed me indelibly. Soon the vision of foreign hairy
invaders vanished; the people saw that it was a sheer accident, fearful
as it was; but in that ancient lax administration behind the screen of
cruel rigidity, the real cause of it has never been thoroughly
investigated. Lives were lost in the disaster, for a multitude of
servants still lived in the castle. Mutilated limbs and bodies were
subsequently picked up in abundance from the surrounding moats; the
features of many were too badly marred for identification; and as to the
severed limbs no one could tell which belonged to which of the
shattered trunks.</p>
<p>The remaining half-burned buildings have since been destroyed piecemeal;
all that now remains of the proud castle is the innermost circle of
masonry, which cannot so easily be leveled to the ground. It is not
provided with a railing, and in looking down the steep one feels his
heart stand still. The vast prospect it commands, extending far beyond
the town limits, is superb. A man taking the path directly below the
wall appears no bigger than a dot.</p>
<p>Since I have begun a long story about this grand ruin, give me leave to
recount a tradition in connection with it. Back in the dark ages the
superstitious belief existed in Japan, that in building a castle, to
secure the firmness of its foundation a human life should be sacrificed.
Usually a person was buried alive beneath one of the walls; some declare
the efficacy nullified unless the victim be taken in unawares. The
chronicle says, that in conformity to the above belief when the Imabari
castle, was being raised a horrible homicide had been committed. At
first the authorities were much at a loss in the choice of a proper
offering. One day a poor, decrepit old woman, either prompted by
curiosity or to beg money of the men, approached the work; little did
she dream her life was in peril; in an instant a sagacious magistrate
solved the problem. The signal nod from him, and the castle-builders
fell upon the crone and, amid her screams, struggles, entreaties, stoned
her to the earth. Henceforward, it is said, in the dead silence of the
castle at night a faint, pitiful cry, now drowned in the soughing storm
outside, now audible in the dreadful pause, echoes from under the
ground. I had the precise spot pointed out to me; it lies in the centre
of all the outlying bulwarks; in passing it I always felt a thrill steal
through me, and turned that corner at a greater angle than I would an
ordinary corner, with the intention of keeping my feet off the buried
bones.</p>
<p>In those tyrannical days of feudalism the samurais presumed much upon
the commoners of the town. They not only laid claim wrongly to their
personal property, but also regarded their lives as of no importance.
The samurai always carried two swords by his side, one long and one
short, to arbitrate right and wrong in altercations. Blades tempered by
certain smiths were particularly esteemed; and in order to test the
cutting edge, he would lie in wait nightly at a street corner for a
victim. An innocent passer-by was ferociously attacked and, unless he
could defend himself, was wantonly slain. Such outrages actually
occurred in places; people, forthwith, seldom stirred abroad nights.
Heaven be thanked, those savage times are gone forever; the street-lamps
light every nook and corner, and the police guard the safety of the
citizen.</p>
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