<h3><SPAN name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></SPAN>CHAPTER XIV.</h3>
<p>In describing a distant view of Imabari I made mention of a sea-god's
shrine jutting out into the sea: the festival of that god as well as of
one situated on the harbor and of another on the bank of a river takes
place in the summer. The people go worshiping in the evening. A myriad
of lights twinkle in the air and are reflected on the water below;
refreshment stands line the approaches to the shrine, and their
vociferous proprietors assert their articles to be the very best; the
crackers go off like pop-corn and scintillating fireworks dart upward
now here, now there and everywhere, ending in resplendent showers of
sparks; drums are beating incessantly; the people jostle each other in
getting on and off the steps of the shrine; along the beach are seated a
multitude cooling in the breeze, the children amusing themselves by
digging pits in the sand and making ducks and drakes upon the water.
These are the salient features of the midsummer nights' festivities. The
last but not the least attraction is the reviving breeze along the
shore; the worshipers generally go through the offering of pennies,
clapping of hands, bowing and murmuring of prescribed, short prayers as
hastily as practicable, that they may have more time on the beach.</p>
<p>On the fifteenth of August a great festival takes place every year in my
native town. It is in honor of a patron deity. Everybody is up with the
dawn, children especially are up ever so early in the morning. Paper
lanterns hoisted high in the air on long bamboo sticks are moving toward
the shrine. It is yet dark, but the people forget sleepiness in the
bracing air of the daybreak and in the expected joy. Every store is
cleared of its merchandise and has a temporary home-shrine erected, the
god being a scroll with the deity's name written on it. Two earthen
bottles of saké are invariably offered.</p>
<p>When the day is fully come, the procession starts from the permanent
abode of the gods. A huge drum comes foremost, then a number of men in
red masks with peaked noses, representing fabulous servants of the gods.
Then come two portable shrines built like a sedan chair, and the rear is
brought up by yagura-daiko. This last is a large frame-work of varnished
wood carried by men. On the top of it a large bass-drum is placed, and
with four boys around it. The boys are dressed in fancy costumes and
beat time for the songs of the men below. The men are all dressed in
white and seem at first to keep the presence of their gods in mind; but
soon they get drunk, being treated with wine in every house, and spatter
their garments with mud.</p>
<p>As the shrines pass, the men get into the houses, seize the earthen
bottles of saké and pour the contents over them. These men also get
tipsy and treat the beautiful shrines rudely, turning them wildly and
throwing them hard on the ground; so that, at the end of the day, there
is nothing left of them but their trunks. This rude usage became an
established custom, and the portable shrines are built very strong.</p>
<p>A few days previous to the festival, boys prepare for it by constructing
jumonji. Two slender elastic timbers are tied together in the form of a
cross; one boy mounts it, and his comrades lift him up by applying their
shoulders to the four ends. They march up and down the streets, singing
festal songs, and challenge boys of other streets to come forth and have
a "rush."</p>
<p>Not far from my native town there stands a high peak called
Stone-hammer. It is customary for older boys to scale the lofty mountain
and pay tribute to the deity on the top of it. They get somebody who has
been there before for their leader. The preparation for the holy
hazardous journey is rigorous. They bathe in cold water for months
previously, live on plain diet, and pass the time in prayers and
penances. Were their hearts and bodies unclean, it is reported that, on
their ascent to the shrine, the gods' messengers—creatures half man,
half eagle—would grasp them by the hair and fly away among the clouds
and often kill them by letting them fall upon the crags and down into
the valleys.</p>
<p>When a set of the hardy youths start out for the venturesome pilgrimage,
they are dressed in white cotton clothes, shod with straw sandals, and
have their long hair thoroughly washed and hanging loose. Each carries a
pole with a tablet nailed on one end, on which is written the name of
the mountain god. They shout a short prayer in unison, blowing a horn at
intervals. My elder brother who went with one of these bands told me
that the journey is very toilsome and dangerous. There are three chains
to help in climbing three perpendicular heights. At times he was above
the clouds, heard the peals of thunder beneath his feet and felt
extremely cold. The leader sometimes holds a wayward youth on the verge
of a precipice by way of discipline and demands whether he will reform
or whether his body shall be cast into the gorge below.</p>
<p>The pilgrims bring home for souvenirs the leaves and branches of sacred
trees and distribute them among their friends and relatives. The friends
and relatives, for their part, wait for them at the outskirts of the
town. At an appointed hour the spreads are awaiting the weary
worshipers. Little brothers and sisters strain their ears to catch the
faintest echoes of the horns and shouts. When the youthful travelers are
back and fully established again in their homes, marvelous are the
stories that they deal out to their friends.</p>
<p>I have been consuming a good deal of time and space in describing
amusements and holidays; it is high time to revert to studies. I had
been going to school all this time. The spirit of rivalry at school was
fostered to such an extent that we felt obliged to go to the teachers in
the evenings for private instruction. The teacher sits with a small, low
table before and an andon beside him. The andon is the native lamp,
cylindrical in shape, perhaps five feet in height and a foot in
diameter; the frame is made of light wood, and rice-paper is pasted
round it. In the inside is suspended a brass saucer, sometimes swinging
from a cross-piece at the top and sometimes resting on a cross-bar in
the middle; the vessel holds the rush-wick and vegetable oil extracted
from the seed of a <i>Crucifer</i>. The andon gives but feeble light and is
now entirely displaced by the kerosene lamp. In lighting a lamp, prior
to the importation of matches, we struck sparks with flint and steel on
a material inflammable as gun cotton, called nikusa, and from it secured
light with sulphur-tipped shavings called tsukegi (lighting-chips).</p>
<p>Close to the andon the pupils, one at a time, in the order of their
arrival, bring their books and sit <i>vis-à-vis</i> with the teacher. The
latter first hears the pupil read the last lesson and then, after it has
been thoroughly reviewed, reads for him the next lesson. He does it
looking at the pupil's book from the top; the learner follows him aloud,
pointing out every word he reads with a stick. This is repeated until
the scholar has nearly learned the text. The scholar then returns home
to go over the lesson by himself. In this manner I have torn my Japanese
and Chinese authors, just as an American boy blots his Cæsar and Virgil;
and certain passages come up even now as spontaneously as the
translation of "<i>Gallia est omnis divisa in partes tres</i>."</p>
<p>In school an examination was held at the end of each month; how hard we
used to work for it! It decided one's standing in class, and all through
the following month he had to remain in a given seat. Everybody wished
to be at the head and that bred strong emulation. The night before the
examination I would study and read aloud all the evening; as it became
late my eyelids tended to droop and my voice to falter; my father would
bid me not to be over-anxious and retire. The next morning he would wake
me early in compliance with my request, and light me a lamp to study by.
It was a bad habit, I grant; but if I work half as conscientiously now
as I did then I shall be the wiser for it.</p>
<p>My class was composed of about six members; we met in each other's
houses outside of school hours to go over our reviews together. One of
the boys was a carpenter's son and possessed with a mechanical craze.
Whenever we gathered in his house he would offer, unsolicited, to
explain and exhibit a gimcrack he had made with his father's tools, and
we did scarcely any studying. Another of our schoolmates was a farmer's
son, a big shame-faced lad sent to our beloved master's to be educated
in the city; he boarded with him. Country-fellow as we called him, he
acquired his preceptor's hand in writing so well that nobody in school
chose to pick a quarrel with him on the question of brush handling. But
no mortal man is without a peccadillo—our boy was always observed to be
moving his jaws and chewing more candies than were good for him. The
third was a staid druggist's son, sedate as his father and as particular
in trifling matters; he was "awfully smart," as the phrase is, in his
studies, having pursued them conscientiously; and besides, he belonged
as a matter of course to the category of "good boys." I used to sleep
with him in his house sometimes and study arithmetic with him.</p>
<p>Here parenthetically I must describe the Japanese bed. It is a very
simple affair: a thick quilt is taken out of a closet and spread
directly on the floor; you lie down on it and pull another quilt over
yourself, and you have the bed. There is no bedstead; therefore, fleas
have a picnic at your expense if the room is not well swept. In the
morning you fold the quilts and put them back in the closet, and space
is given for the day. Our pillow is no comfort to a weary head, it being
simply a hard block of wood; often it is a box with a drawer at the end.
The use of this kind of pillow or support was formerly imperative for
the men and is still to the women for the protection of the head-dress
from ruin and the bedclothes from the bandoline. The sterner sex of our
population now-a-days crop their hair after the fashion of their
European brothers, and have in great part given up the wooden block for
a soft pillow.</p>
<p>My schooling was continued for some time with satisfactory results, and
I advanced grade after grade well-nigh to the end of the common school
instruction, when my father saw fit to remove me and put me in a store
so that I could be a credit to myself as a business-man's son. I was an
apprentice in two trades at different times and yet unsettled in mind
and anxious to go back to school. I might go on telling all about the
period of my apprenticeship, and things I learned and people I observed
during that time: how I finally carried the day and returned to my
studies; how I studied Chinese and how I struck out in English; how I
went to Kioto and struggled through five years' academic training; and
how a few years ago I borrowed money and sailed for America. But that
would be writing a real autobiography, which would be disagreeable to me
as well as distasteful to the reader. In the story told so far I ought
to have, perhaps, prudently suppressed everything personal and brought
forward only those experiences that the generality of Japanese boys are
destined to undergo. Neither have I exhausted by any means the incidents
of my own childhood; at this moment I am conscious of things of more
importance than those set down on the foregoing pages welling up in the
fountain of memory. But I have written enough to try the patience of my
indulgent reader, and I myself have grown weary of my own performance;
it is therefore excusable, I hope, to draw this narrative abruptly to an
end.</p>
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