<h2><SPAN name="Letter_5" id="Letter_5"></SPAN>Letter 5.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">After passing a day or two in a general view of the
city, and making some preliminary arrangements for
our future movements, we all called upon Mr. Lawrence,
the minister of our country at the court of
St. James, which expression refers to the appellation
of the old palace of George III. Mr. Lawrence
resides in Piccadilly, opposite the St. James's Park,
in a very splendid mansion, which he rents from an
English nobleman, all furnished. We were very
kindly received by his excellency, who expressed
much pleasure at seeing his young countrymen coming
abroad, and said he was fond of boys, and liked
them as travelling companions. I handed him a
letter of introduction from his brother. Mr. Lawrence
offered us all the facilities in his power to see
the sights, and these are great, for he is furnished
by the government of England with orders which
will admit parties to almost every thing in and about
London. Amongst other tickets he gave us the following
admissions: to the Queen's stables, Windsor
Castle, Dulwich Gallery, Woolwich Arsenal, Navy
Yard, Sion House, Northumberland House, Houses of
Parliament, and, what we highly valued, an admission
to enter the exhibition, which is yet unfinished,
and not open to inspection.</p>
<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_42" id="Page_42" title="42"></SPAN></span>After leaving the minister, we paid our respects to
Mr. Davis, the secretary of legation, and were
kindly received. We walked on from Piccadilly
to the Crystal Palace, passing Apsley House, the
residence of the Duke of Wellington, and soon
reached Hyde Park, with its famous gateway and
the far-famed statue of "the duke." As we shall
go into some detailed account of the palace after
the exhibition opens, I would only say, that we were
exceedingly surprised and delighted with the building
itself, and were so taken up with that as hardly
to look at its contents, which were now rapidly getting
into order. The effect of the noble elms which
are covered up in the palace is very striking and
pleasing, and very naturally suggests the idea that
the house would, by and by, make a glorious green-house
for the city, where winter's discontents might
be almost made into a "glorious summer." A poor
fellow was killed here, just before we entered, by falling
through the skylight roof. He was at work on a
plank laid across the iron frame, and that tipping up,
threw him on to the glass, and his death was instantaneous.
We are more and more pleased at having
so central a domicile as the Golden Cross, for time is
every thing when you have to see sights; and here
we can get to any point we desire by a bus, and
obtain a fly at any moment. Very much that we
desire to see, too, is east of Temple Bar, and our
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_43" id="Page_43" title="43"></SPAN></span>Mentor seems determined that we shall become acquainted
with the London of other times, and we
rarely walk out without learning who lived in "that
house," and what event had happened in "that
street." I fancy that we are going to gather up
much curious matter for future use and recollection
by our street wanderings. A book called "The
Streets of London" is our frequent study, and is
daily consulted with advantage. To-day we dined at
the famous Williams's, in Old Bailey, where boiled
beef is said to be better than at any other place
in London. It was certainly as fine as could be
desired. The customers were numerous, and looked
like business men. The proprietor was a busy man,
and his eyes seemed every where. A vision of
cockroaches, however, dispelled the appetite for a
dessert, and we perambulated our way to the Monument.
This has a noble appearance, and stands
on Fish Street Hill. The pillar is two hundred and
two feet high, and is surmounted by a gilt flame.
The object of the Monument is to commemorate the
great fire of London in Charles II.'s reign.</p>
<p class="text">It had an inscription which ascribed the origin
of the fire to the Catholics; but recently this has
been obliterated. It was to this inscription and
allegation that Pope referred in his lines,—</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>"Where London's column, pointing to the skies,
Like a tall bully, lifts its head, and <i>lies</i>."</p>
</div>
<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_44" id="Page_44" title="44"></SPAN></span>There are few things in London that have impressed
us more than the fine, massive bridges which
span the Thames, and are so crowded with foot
passengers and carriages. Every boy who has read
much has had his head full of notions about London
Bridge; that is, old London Bridge, which was
taken down about thirty years ago. The old bridge
was originally a wooden structure, and on the sides
of the bridge were houses, and the pathway in front
had all sorts of goods exposed for sale, and the
Southwark gate of the bridge was disfigured with
the heads and quarters of the poor creatures who
were executed for treason.</p>
<p class="text">The new bridge was commenced in 1825, and it
was opened in 1831 by William IV. and Queen
Adelaide. The bridge has five arches; the central
one is one hundred and fifty feet in the clear, the
two next one hundred and forty feet, and the extreme
arches one hundred and thirty feet. The
length, including the abutments, is about one thousand
feet, its width eighty-three feet, and the road
for carriages fifty-five feet.</p>
<p class="text">The great roads leading to London Bridge have
been most costly affairs; and I was told that a
<i>parish and its church</i> had been destroyed to make
these approaches. The men of different generations,
who, for almost one thousand years, looked at the
old bridge, would stare at the present one and its
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_45" id="Page_45" title="45"></SPAN></span>present vicinity, if they were to come back again.
Southwark Bridge was commenced in 1814, and
finished in 1819. It has three arches, and the central
arch is two hundred and forty feet, which is the
greatest span in the world. In this bridge are five
thousand three hundred and eight tons of iron.
Blackfriars Bridge was commenced in 1760, and
opened in 1770. It has nine elliptical arches, of
which the middle one is one hundred feet in width.
Recently this bridge has been thoroughly repaired.
I think this is my favorite stand-point for the river
and city. Nowhere else have I obtained such a
view up and down the river. Here I have a full
prospect of the Tower, St. Paul's Cathedral, Somerset
House, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster
Abbey, and perhaps twenty-five other churches!
But the great bridge of all is the Waterloo one,
commenced in 1811, and opened in 1817, on the 18th
of June, the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo.
Of course, the Duke of Wellington figured upon the
occasion. At this point the river is one thousand
three hundred and twenty-six feet wide; and the
bridge is of nine elliptical arches, each of one hundred
and twenty feet space, and thirty-five feet high
above high water, and its entire length two thousand
four hundred and fifty-six feet. It is painful to hear
the sad stories which have a connection with this
magnificent structure. It seems the chosen resort
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_46" id="Page_46" title="46"></SPAN></span>of London suicides, and very frequent are the events
which almost justify its appellation—"the Bridge
of Sighs." I love to walk this and the other
bridges, and look at the mighty city, and think of
its wonderful history and its existing place in the
affairs of the world; and I cannot help thinking of
the reflection of the wise man—"One generation
passeth away, but the earth remaineth." I have
never felt my own insignificance so much, Charley,
as when walking in one of these crowded streets.
I know no one; I am unknown; I am in solitude,
and feel it more, perhaps, than I should if alone
upon a mountain top or in a wilderness. I am
sure I have told you enough for once, and perhaps
you are as tired of my letter as I was in going over
the places I have written to you about; so I will
relieve your patience.</p>
<p class="center">I am yours always,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p>
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