<h2><SPAN name="Letter_7" id="Letter_7"></SPAN>Letter 7.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">As we had a few days to spare before the exhibition
opened, we proposed to run down to Bristol
and Bath, and pass a week. We took the Great
Western train first-class ears, and made the journey
of one hundred and twenty miles in two hours and
forty minutes. This is the perfection of travelling.
The cars are very commodious, holding eight persons,
each having a nicely-cushioned chair. The
rail is the broad gage; and we hardly felt the motion,
so excellent is the road. The country through
which we passed was very beautiful, and perhaps it
never appears to more advantage than in the gay
garniture of spring. We left Windsor Castle to
our left, and Eton College, and passed by Beading,
a fine, flourishing town; and at Swindon we made a
stay of ten minutes. The station at this place is
very spacious and elegant. Here the passengers
have the only opportunity to obtain refreshments on
the route; and never did people seem more intent
upon laying in provender. The table was finely
laid out, and a great variety tempted the appetite.
The railroad company, when they leased this station,
stipulated that every train should pass ten minutes
at it. But the express train claimed exemption,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_52" id="Page_52" title="52"></SPAN></span>and refused to afford the time. The landlord prosecuted
the company, obtained satisfactory damages,
and now even the express train affords its passengers
time to recruit at Swindon. This place has
grown up under the auspices of the railroad, and
one can hardly fancy a prettier place than environs
the station. The cottages are of stone, of the Elizabethan
and Tudor style, and are very numerous;
while the church, which is just finished, is one of the
neatest affairs I have yet seen in England. The
town of Swindon is about two miles from the station,
and I expect to visit it in the course of my journey.
You know, my dear Charley, how long and fondly
I have anticipated my visit to my native city, and
can imagine my feelings on this route homewards.
We passed through Bath, a most beautiful city, (and
I think as beautiful as any I ever saw,) and then in
half an hour we entered Bristol. The splendid
station-house of the railroad was new to me, but
the old streets and houses were all familiar as if
they had been left but yesterday. The next morning
I called on my friends, and you may think how
sad my disappointment was to find that a dangerous
accident had just placed my nearest relative in the
chamber of painful confinement for probably three
months. It was a pleasant thing to come home to
scenes of childhood and youth, and I was prepared
to enjoy every hour; but I soon realized that here
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_53" id="Page_53" title="53"></SPAN></span>all our roses have thorns. Of course, in Bristol I
need no guide; and the boys are, I assure you,
pretty thoroughly fagged out, when night comes,
with our perambulations through the old city and
neighborhood.</p>
<p class="text">Bristol has claims upon the attention of the
stranger, not only as one of the oldest cities in England,
but on account of its romantic scenery. The
banks of the Avon are not to be surpassed by the
scenes afforded by any other river of its size in the
world. This city was founded by Brennus, the
chieftain of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome,
388 B.C., and tradition states that his brother Belinus
aided him in the work. The statues of these
worthies are quaintly carved on the gateway of
John's Church, in Broad Street, and are of very
great antiquity. In the earliest writings that bear
upon the west of England—the Welsh Chronicles—this
city is called <i>Caër oder</i>, which means the city
of the <i>Chasm</i>. This the Saxons called <i>Clifton</i>. The
Avon runs through a tremendous fissure in the rocks
called Vincent's Rocks; and hence the name given
to the suburbs of the city, on its banks—Clifton.
Of this place we shall have much to tell you.
Another Welsh name for the city was <i>Caër Brito</i>, or
the painted city, or the famous city. Bristol, like
Rome, stands on seven hills, and on every side is
surrounded by the most attractive scenery. It has
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_54" id="Page_54" title="54"></SPAN></span>made quite a figure in history, and its castle was an
object of great importance during the civil wars
between Charles I. and his Parliament. This city
stands in two counties, and has the privileges of one
itself. It is partly in Gloucestershire and partly in
Somersetshire. The population of Bristol, with
Clifton and the Hot Wells, is about two hundred
thousand. My first excursion with the boys was to
Redcliffe Church, which is thought to be the finest
parish church in England. This is the church
where poor Chatterton said that he found the Rowley
MSS. No one of taste visits the city without
repairing to this venerable pile. Its antiquity, beauty
of architecture, and the many interesting events connected
with its history, claim particular notice. This
church was probably commenced about the beginning
of the thirteenth century; but it was completed by
William Cannynge, Sen., mayor of the city, in 1396.
In 1456, the lofty spire was struck by lightning, and
one hundred feet fell upon the south aisle. The
approach from Redcliffe Street is very impressive.
The highly-ornamented tower, the west front of the
church, its unrivalled north porch, and the transept,
with flying buttresses, pinnacles, and parapet, cannot
fail to gratify every beholder. The building stands
on a hill, and is approached by a magnificent flight
of steps, guarded by a heavy balustrade. In length,
the church and the Lady Chapel is two hundred
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_55" id="Page_55" title="55"></SPAN></span>and thirty-nine feet; from north to south of the
cross aisles is one hundred and seventeen feet; the
height of the middle aisle is fifty-four, and of the
north and south aisles, twenty-five feet.</p>
<p class="text">The impression produced on the spectator by the
interior is that of awe and reverence, as he gazes on
the clustered pillars, the mullioned windows, the
panelled walls, the groined ceilings, decorated with
ribs, tracery, and bosses, all evincing the skill of its
architects and the wonderful capabilities of the
Gothic style.</p>
<p class="text">The east window and screen have long been hidden
by some large paintings of Hogarth. The subjects
of these are the Ascension, the Three Marys at
the Sepulchre, and the High Priest sealing Christ's
Tomb.</p>
<p class="text">On a column in the south transept is a flat slab,
with a long inscription, in memory of Sir William
Penn, father of William Penn, the great founder of
Pennsylvania. The column is adorned with his
banner and armor.</p>
<p class="text">The boys, who had so often read of Guy, Earl
of Warwick, and of his valorous exploits, were
greatly pleased to find in this church, placed against
a pillar, a rib of the Dun cow which he is said to
have slain.</p>
<p class="text">You may be very sure that we inquired for
the room in which Chatterton said he found old
Monk Rowley's poems. It is an hexagonal room
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_56" id="Page_56" title="56"></SPAN></span>over the north porch, in which the archives were
kept Chatterton's uncle was sexton of the church;
and the boy had access to the building, and carried
off parchments at his pleasure. The idea of making
a literary forgery filled his mind; and if you read
Southey and Cottle's edition of the works of Chatterton,
or, what is far better, an admirable Life of the
young poet by John Dix, a gifted son of Bristol,
now living in America, you will have an interesting
view of the character of this remarkable youth.</p>
<p><br/></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="Thomas_Chatterton" id="Thomas_Chatterton"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/pg059.png"><ANTIMG src="images/pg059_th.png" width-obs="349" height-obs="400" alt="Thomas Chatterton." title="Thomas Chatterton." /></SPAN><span class="caption">Thomas Chatterton.</span></div>
<p><br/></p>
<p class="text">At the east end of the church is the Chapel of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_57" id="Page_57" title="57"></SPAN></span>the Virgin Mary. A noble room it is. A large
statue of Queen Elizabeth, in wood, stands against
one of the windows, just where it did thirty-seven
years ago, when I was a youngster, and went to her
majesty's grammar school, which is taught in the
chapel. I showed the boys the names of my old
school-fellows cut upon the desks. How various
their fates! One fine fellow, whose name yet lives
on the wood, found his grave in the West Indies, on
a voyage he had anticipated with great joy.</p>
<p class="text">I am glad to say that a spirited effort is now
making to restore this gorgeous edifice. It was
greatly needed, and was commenced in 1846. I do
wish you could see this church and gaze upon its
interior. I have obtained some fine drawings of
parts of the edifice, and they will enable you to
form some faint idea of the splendor of the whole.
We have to dine with a friend, and I must close.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p>
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