<h2><SPAN name="Letter_11" id="Letter_11"></SPAN>Letter 11.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first
arrived in London, ordered the man to drive to the
Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to go there
as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_75" id="Page_75" title="75"></SPAN></span>quite so touch excitement as I did when we were
riding to the Tower, I had so many things crowding
into my mind; and all the history of England with
which I have been so pleased came at once freshly
into my memory. I wanted to be alone, and have
all day to wander up and down the old prison and
palace and museum, for it has been all these things
by turns. Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got
directly in front of the old fortress, and had a complete
view of it.</p>
<p class="text">In the centre stands a lofty square building, with
four white towers, having vanes upon them. This is
said to be the work of William the Conqueror, but
has had many alterations under William Rufus,
Henry I., and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was
besieged by the barons who made war on John.
Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did
much to strengthen and adorn it. About this time
the Tower began to be used as a state prison.
Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded
the Tower. In the days of Richard II.,
when the king had his troubles with Wat Tyler,
the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on
Tower Hill, or, rather, massacred, for it said that he
was mangled by eight strokes of the axe. When
Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he
placed his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was
here for some time after he came to the throne, and
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_76" id="Page_76" title="76"></SPAN></span>he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower, and
they still wear the same dress as at that day. The
dress is very rich,—scarlet and gold,—and made
very large; the coat short, and sleeves full. The
head-dress is a cap.</p>
<p class="text">We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate,
because some time back the menagerie was kept in
apartments close by. The kings of other days used
to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was
very fond of combats between lions and dogs in
presence of his court. All these animals were moved
several years ago to the Zoölogical Gardens. We
passed through strong gates, defended by a portcullis,
and on our left we saw what the warden
called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of
Bishop Fisher, who was beheaded for not acknowledging
Henry VIII. to be the head of the church.
I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it
was on the right hand, having a communication with
the Thames under a bridge on the wharf. Through
this passage it was formerly the custom to convey
the state prisoners, and many a man in passing this
gate bade farewell to hope.</p>
<p class="text">There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody
tower where Edward V. and his brother were put
to death by the monster Richard, who usurped the
throne. I would have given a great deal to have
explored the Tower, but the things and places I
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_77" id="Page_77" title="77"></SPAN></span>wanted to look into were just what you are not let
see. The old Tower of English history you look
at, but must not go through. Still I have been
delighted, but not satisfied. We found the spot
where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt
in 1841, and, if I recollect rightly, the warden said
it was three hundred and fifty feet long, and sixty
wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of
cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw
some few fine specimens that were saved. Of
course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory.
This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length,
and about thirty-five wide. Some one has said that
here is "the History of England, done in iron."
All down the middle of the room is a line of equestrian
figures, and over each character is his banner.
All the sides of the apartment are decorated with
trophies and figures in armor. I was much gratified
with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement
of the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of
the suits of armor were very rich, and answered
exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I saw,
for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the
men of that day must have been stronger than
those of our time, or they never could have endured
such trappings. I was much pleased with the real
armor of Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and
damasked. And here, too, was the very armor of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_78" id="Page_78" title="78"></SPAN></span>Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court
of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and
close by it is the martial suit of the unfortunate
Essex. He was executed, you know, at this place,
1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw
were the suits of Charles I. and a small one which
belonged to his younger brother when a lad. I
think one suit made for Charles when a boy of
twelve would have fitted me exactly; and wouldn't
I have liked to become its owner! King Charles's
armor was a present from the city of London, and
was one of the latest manufactured in England.</p>
<p class="text">I do not think I ever was in a place that so
delighted me. I cannot tell you a hundredth part
of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts of
rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture
prepared by the Roman Catholics, at the time of the
Spanish Armada, for the conversion of the English
heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which
weighs about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward
spikes; and besides, we saw a barbarous instrument,
called the Scavenger's Daughter, which packed
up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small
space. We looked with deep interest, you may
imagine, Charley, on the block on which the Scotch
lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded
in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood
are deeply cut; and we had in our hands the axe
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_79" id="Page_79" title="79"></SPAN></span>which was used at the execution of the Earl of
Essex. I shall read the history of this country, I
am sure, with more pleasure than ever, after walking
over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many
great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons
have suffered death. Only think what a list
of names to be connected with the block—Fisher,
More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard,
Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and
Devereux, both Earls of Essex, the Duke of Somerset,
Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke
of Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford,
Laud,—all perished on the Tower Green or on the
Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized where
the scaffold was erected.</p>
<p class="text">The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an
apartment built on purpose to contain these precious
treasures. Here are the crowns that once belonged to
different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the
death of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be
as old as the times of Edward the Confessor, was
broken up, and a new one made at the restoration of
Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered
with large stones of different colors, and the cap of the
crown is of purple velvet. The old crown for the
queen is of gold, set with diamonds of great cost, and
has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the
Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_80" id="Page_80" title="80"></SPAN></span>adorned with diamonds, and which cost just about
half a million of dollars. The crown of the Prince
of Wales is plain gold.</p>
<p class="text">As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you
half the number. One I noticed called "St. Edward's
Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches long.
At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of
the Savior's cross is <i>said</i> to be in the orb. Here,
too, are all kinds of swords—called swords of
justice and mercy—and vessels to hold the oil for
anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar
of gold which is used at the same time, and is a
model of the Tower. I thought all this very fine;
but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid
specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds,
pearls, amethysts, emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee
boys had never seen, and probably may never see
again. I was very much delighted with a large
silver wine fountain, presented by Plymouth to
Charles II., and which is used at coronation banquets;
and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at
the baptism of the Queen. It stands about four
feet high. Over all this show that I have told you
of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is
very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond
cross is a sparkling sapphire, while in front of the
crown is a large ruby which was worn by the Black
Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_81" id="Page_81" title="81"></SPAN></span>to Washington and look at our old copy of the
Declaration of Independence than gaze for a whole
day at this vast collection of treasure. There is
more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of
Washington's up in the patent office than in all the
crown jewels of England—at least, so I think, and
so do you.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p>
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