<h2><SPAN name="Letter_14" id="Letter_14"></SPAN>Letter 14.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">Ever since we reached London, I have wanted to
go to Woolwich, the great naval arsenal and dockyard,
because I expected I should obtain a pretty
good idea of the power of the British navy; and
then I like to compare such places with our own;
and I have often, at Brooklyn Navy Yard, thought
how much I should like to see Woolwich. Woolwich is
one the Thames, and about ten miles from
the city. You can go at any hour by steamer from
London Bridge, or take the railway from the Surrey
side of the bridge. We were furnished with a
ticket of admission from our minister; but unfortunately,
we came on a day when the yard was closed
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_93" id="Page_93" title="93"></SPAN></span>by order. We were sadly disappointed, but the
doorkeeper, a very respectable police officer, told us
that our only recourse was to call on the commanding
officer, who lived a mile off, and he kindly gave
us a policeman as a guide. On our way, we met
the general on horseback, attended by some other
officers. We accosted him, and told our case. He
seemed sorry, but said the yard was closed. As
soon as we mentioned that we came from America,
he at once gave orders for our admission, and was
very polite. Indeed, on several occasions we have
found that our being from the United States has
proved quite a passport.</p>
<p class="text">We had a special government order to go over
all the workshops and see the steam power, &c.,
&c. I think I shall not soon forget the wonderful
smithery where the Nasmyth hammers are at work,
employed in forging chain cables and all sorts of iron
work for the men-of-war. We went in succession
through the founderies for iron and brass, the steam
boiler manufactory, and saw the planing machines
and lathes; and as to all the other shops and factories,
I can only say, that the yard looked like a city.</p>
<p class="text">We were much pleased with the ships now in
progress. One was the screw steamer, the Agamemnon,
to have eighty-guns. There, too, is the
Royal Albert, of one hundred and twenty guns,
which they call the largest ship in the world. Of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_94" id="Page_94" title="94"></SPAN></span>course, we think this doubtful. It has been nine
years in progress, and will not be finished for three
more. It is to be launched when the Prince of
Wales attains the rank of post captain. We saw,
among many other curiosities, the boat in which Sir
John Ross was out twenty-seven days in the ice.
We went into an immense building devoted to military
stores, and in one room we saw the entire
accoutrements for ten thousand cavalry, including
bridles, saddles, and stirrups, holsters, &c.</p>
<p class="text">The yard is a very large affair, containing very
many acres; it is the depository of the cannon belonging
to the army and navy for all the region,
and there were more than twenty thousand pieces
lying upon the ground. Some were very large, and
they were of all varieties known in war.</p>
<p class="text">After a delightful hour spent in listening to the
best martial music I ever heard played, by the band,
we took steamboat for Greenwich, and, landing
there, walked to Blackheath, where we had an engagement
to dine at Lee Grove with a London merchant.
Here we had a fine opportunity to witness
the luxury and elegance of English social life. This
gentleman, now in the decline of life, has an exquisitely
beautiful place, situated in a park of some
sixty acres. The railroad has been run through his
estate, and, of course, has made it very much more
valuable for building; but as it injures the park for
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_95" id="Page_95" title="95"></SPAN></span>the embellishment of the mansion, it was a fair subject
for damages, and the jury of reference gave its
proprietor the pretty verdict of eleven thousand
pounds. At the table we had the finest dessert
which the hothouse can furnish. Our host gave us
a very interesting account of his travels in America
more than forty years ago. A journey from New
York to Niagara, as related by this traveller, was
then far more of an undertaking than a journey
from New Orleans to New York, and a voyage
thence to England, at the present time.</p>
<p class="text">In the evening, we took the cars for London, and
reached our comfortable hotel, the Golden Cross,
Charing Cross, at eleven o'clock. By the way, we
are all very much pleased with the house and its
landlord. Mr. Gardiner is a very gentlemanly man,
of fine address and acquirements. He has been a
most extensive traveller in almost every part of the
world, and has a fine collection of paintings, and one
of the prettiest cabinets of coins and medals I ever
saw. He has a pretty cottage and hothouses four
or five miles from the city; and his family resides
partly there and at the hotel. The hotel is every
thing that can be desired.</p>
<p class="text">A few evenings ago, Mr. Lawrence had a splendid
<i>soirée</i>. There were probably from two to three
hundred present. Among the company were Sir
David Brewster, Leslie the artist, Miss Coutts, the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_96" id="Page_96" title="96"></SPAN></span>Duke of Wellington. "The duke," as he is called,
is the great man of England. All the people idolize
him, and he is known to be a great man. He
has become more identified with the history of England
for the last forty years than any other man.
Of course, he was to us Americans the great man
of the country. Whenever I have read of Napoleon,
I have had Wellington in my eye, and to see
him was next to seeing the emperor. I never expected
the pleasure, but here it is allotted me. He
is quite an old man in his bearing and gait. He
was dressed in a blue coat with metal buttons, wore
his star and garter, and had on black tights and
shoes. He had been to the opera, and then came
to this party. Every one pays the most deferential
homage to the old hero. Waterloo and its eventful
scenes came directly before me, and I felt almost
impatient for our visit to the battle-field.</p>
<p class="text">A gentleman who knows the duke told us that
he spends from four to five hours every morning at
the Horse Guards in the performance of his duties
as commander-in-chief. Although he looks so feeble
in the drawing-room, he sits finely on his horse;
and when I saw him riding down Piccadilly, he
seemed to be full twenty years younger than he was
the day before at the party.</p>
<p class="text">We shall always be glad that we came to England
in time to see "the duke," and if we live
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_97" id="Page_97" title="97"></SPAN></span>twenty or thirty years, it will be pleasant to say "I
have seen the Duke of Wellington."</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p>
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