<h2><SPAN name="Letter_22" id="Letter_22"></SPAN>Letter 22.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">No one comes to London without being told by
every one to go and see the parks; so we have
been to see these fine breathing places. Hyde Park
is about four hundred acres, and has as many as
half a dozen great entrances. Its position is high,
and it is the great drive of the people of fashion.
If you want to see London, you must come here on
a fine summer day in June, at about four o'clock,
and you will gaze on the finest and gayest equipages
of England. A very pretty piece of water is in this
park, which is called "the Serpentine River." The
best skating of London is to be seen here, we are
told, in hard winters. The entrance from Piccadilly
is by a fine threefold arch. Here is the great
Achilles of bronze, in honor of Wellington, made
out of the cannon which the duke captured in Spain.
St. James's and the Green Park: this is the oldest
in London, and was made by Henry VIII. A
fine arch affords entrance from Piccadilly, having
a bronze colossal equestrian statue of the Duke of
Wellington. You get grand views of the Abbey
towers, Buckingham Palace, the York Column, and
other objects of interest. The two parks are about
one hundred and fifty acres. Regent's Park is one
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_161" id="Page_161" title="161"></SPAN></span>of the most attractive spots in this great city. Here
are villas of the finest kind. Some of the prettiest
terraces and rows of houses about London are here
to be seen. This park contains nearly five hundred
acres, and, among other attractions, the Botanical
and Zoölogical Gardens, and the Coliseum. Victoria
Park, near Bethnal Green, is a new one, of
about three hundred acres; but we did not visit it.</p>
<p class="text">Besides these, there are more than thirty squares,
some of which are very beautiful, and are finely
planted and adorned. Belgrave Square is exceedingly
rich in its appearance; the houses are built in
the Corinthian order.</p>
<p class="text">Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, is the
city residence of the Duke of Northumberland.
This, externally, has no great beauty, but is surmounted
by the lion of the Percy family. It was
built in 1605. This noble mansion has been politely
opened by its proprietor to the visits of the foreigners
who are here at the exhibition. It is a princely
mansion; and, although we had recently been to
Windsor, and seen the royal residence, yet we
thought this palace home almost regal in its splendor.
The staircase is splendid, and the apartments
are very magnificent. The hall and drawing-rooms
are quite equal, in decorations and paintings, to the
rooms at Windsor. We were much pleased with two
large pictures—a fox and deer hunt, by Snyders;
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_162" id="Page_162" title="162"></SPAN></span>but there were so many, that it is difficult to single
out those we admired. There are some beautiful
paintings of Napoleon, and exquisite carvings in
ivory. In one of the saloons we were all struck
with a large Sevres china vase, presented to the
Duke of Northumberland by Charles X., at his coronation,
at which occasion the duke was present as
ambassador extraordinary, and made a most astonishing
display of English wealth and liberality.</p>
<p class="text">Sion House, near Brentford, is another palace
belonging to the duke. This noble mansion is on
the banks of the Thames, and is composed of freestone.
It is very gorgeously furnished, and the hothouses
and conservatories are not much, if any,
inferior to Chatsworth. This mansion has also, been
opened to visitors from abroad, and we received
orders from the minister.</p>
<p class="text">One of the sweetest features about the metropolis,
to my taste, is the vast number of charming villages
that surround it. Go where you may, you fall in
with cottages, villas, and mansions, that convey to
the mind the ideas of comfort, elegance, and
wealth.</p>
<p class="text">I find from Weld that he forgot to tell you that
we went to St. Margaret's Church, which stands
only a few yards off from Westminster Abbey.
This is a very old building, and said to be of the
days of Edward I. In this very building the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_163" id="Page_163" title="163"></SPAN></span>celebrated fast-day sermons of the Long Parliament
were preached, and I felt much interest in thinking
how often Cromwell, Pym, Peters, and Harrison
had worshipped God in that house. In this church,
too, the Assembly of Divines worshipped, and also
the Scotch commissioners, and took the covenant.
This church boasts a painted window of exquisite
beauty, which came as a present, from Holland, to
Henry VII.; and the historical associations of this
window are very curious, and well worth your reading
about. The monuments of this sanctuary are
far from being devoid of interest. I may name,
among others, those to Caxton, Sir Walter Raleigh,
Sir James Harrington, author of the great book,
"Oceana," the wife of Milton, the mother of
Cromwell, all of whom are here interred.</p>
<p class="text">While I am speaking of churches, let me tell you
that, close by our hotel, is a very fine one, that
pleases me exceedingly. It is called St. Martin's-in-the-Fields,
but is at present quite central as it regards
the metropolis. I think the portico is to my
eye equal to any piece of architecture in London.
It was built in 1726. A church stood here for
many centuries; and in 1680, Baxter said that forty
thousand people of the parish could not get into
the church; and he adds that they "lived like
Americans, without hearing a sermon for many
years." This church has an exquisite chime of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_164" id="Page_164" title="164"></SPAN></span>bells, and they very much amused me every morning.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p>
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