<h2><SPAN name="Letter_23" id="Letter_23"></SPAN>Letter 23.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">I have not written you for some time. But today
I have seen a number of things which I am
sure you would be pleased with, and so I will tell
you about them. Early in the morning we went to
see the Mansion House. This is the dwelling-house
of the lord mayor of London. It is a fine-looking
building, but has a queer upper story, with small
windows, which look badly, over the noble pillars
and portico. The great room used for public occasions
is the Egyptian Hall, for what reason does not
appear from any thing about it. Here the lord
mayor has his great feasts. I should like to be in
London on the 9th of November, which is his day
of inauguration; and this is the great day for Londoners.
He rides in a large carved gilt carriage.
I believe he goes to Westminster by water, in a
splendid barge, and comes back in his coach. The
salary is eight thousand pounds; but the expenses
are beyond this amount, and some persons refuse to
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_165" id="Page_165" title="165"></SPAN></span>serve, and pay a fine of five hundred pounds; but
this is a rare case, and enough are ready to pay for
the honor. In the city the mayor ranks before the
royal family. The title of "your lordship" ceases
at the expiration of his office.</p>
<p class="text">Our next visit was to the Royal Exchange, a very
noble quadrangle, which was finished in 1844. It
stands finely between the Bank of England and the
Mansion House, and in front there is a sort of open
space, or widening of the streets. This is the third
building which has occupied the same spot—the
two earlier ones were both burnt down. The
original Exchange was built by Sir Thomas Gresham,
and opened by Queen Elizabeth in 1570. It
was copied from the famous Burse at Antwerp,
which still stands. It is singular that, in the great
fires of 1666 and 1838, the statue of Sir Thomas
Gresham escaped uninjured. The Exchange is
built of Portland stone, and already has acquired,
from the smoke of London, a venerable tinge. The
portico, I am told, is the largest in the kingdom;
but the one at St. Martin's Church I like better.
Crossing over the road, we were at the Bank of
England. This is a truly immense affair. The
walls measure fourteen hundred and sixty feet. It
wad built in 1734, but has had many alterations and
additions, and now covers four acres. We did not
go into it.</p>
<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_166" id="Page_166" title="166"></SPAN></span>The docks of London are among the attractions
of the place. They are called St. Catharine's,
London, East India, West India, Commercial, &c.
These are tar too great an affair for me to describe;
and to look at them, and then think of writing an
account, is very much like a small boy opening a
book of mathematics and trying to understand it.
What do you think of the tobacco warehouse, at the
docks covering five acres? Then the tea in bonded
warehouses was worth twenty-five millions of dollars;
and there are ten millions of pounds of pepper, six
millions of gallons of wine, and other things in proportion.
I inquired about the shipping, and was
told that there were about four thousand seven hundred
and fifty vessels, and eighty thousand seamen,
employed in the foreign commerce of the city; and
beyond all this, twenty-one thousand coasting vessels,
averaging five or six men to each craft. Nothing in
London amazes us like these docks. Here you see
Malays, Turks, Lascars, Chinese, Russians, Portuguese,
Dutch, French, Negroes, and men of all nations.</p>
<p class="text">We went several times to walk through Covent
Garden Market, and to see it to advantage you must
go very early in the morning. The supply of fruits
and flowers is perfectly astonishing, and the perfume
is very fine. You little imagine, Charley, the prices
that early vegetables and fruits fetch. A cucumber
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_167" id="Page_167" title="167"></SPAN></span>and onion, wrapped up in grape leaves, will, in February,
March, and early part of April, find purchasers
at two, three, and four dollars. Strawberries,
peaches, and pines are sold in early season at
what we should think "awful" prices. The hothouse
grapes are very beautiful, and the vegetable
productions are more carefully raised, and in greater
variety, than with us. If you want to know all
about Covent Garden Market, you must read Mayhew
on London Labor—a nice book.</p>
<p class="text">We boys had a treat the other day at an autograph
collector's. His collection was large and
rare, but his prices very high. I have saved a catalogue
for you.</p>
<p class="text">To-morrow we are off for the continent, and we
are very busy in making our arrangements; so I
must close. Our next will be from <i>La Belle France.</i></p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p>
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