<h2><SPAN name="Letter_26" id="Letter_26"></SPAN>Letter 26.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">We have been to dine at the Palais Royal, at the
<i>Trois Frères Provençaux</i>, of which I suppose the
boys have told you; and I shall only speak about the
fine building, so renowned all over the world. The
Palais Royal is to Paris what Paris is to France.
Its history is briefly this: Cardinal Richelieu built it
for himself; but the king, Louis XIII., was jealous,
and the wily old priest gave it to the monarch, and,
after Richelieu's death, he moved into it. In 1692,
it fell into the hands of Philippe, Duke of Orleans,
as a gift, or marriage portion, from Louis XIV.,
and here the great Orleans collection of paintings
was gathered, and which was sold in 1789, at the
breaking out of the great troubles. In 1814, Louis
Philippe obtained it as his inheritance, and lived
there till 1831. The garden is very fine, and is
about seven hundred and fifty feet by three hundred,
and has beautiful rows of lime-trees, trimmed into
shape, as are most of these trees in Paris. In the
centre are flower gardens and a basin of water,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_180" id="Page_180" title="180"></SPAN></span>with a fine fountain. In this open space are beautiful
bronze and marble statues. One I admired exceedingly;
it is Eurydice, stung by a snake. In this
garden are hundreds of persons under the trees, on
chairs, which are hired, where they read and take
refreshments. Under the arcades which surround
the area are the most tasty shops of Paris, and
where you may get any thing you please. A gayer
sight than this same Palais Royal, or, as they now
call it, Palais National, cannot be seen in this world.
I shall not attempt to tell you about the apartments
of the palace, and which you can read of at your
leisure. What a loss it was to the world when, in
February, 1848, six hundred thousand engravings,
all classified by Louis Philippe, and making one hundred
and twenty-two enormous folios, were destroyed
by the mob, and the queen's own library also!</p>
<p class="text">We lounged about from one shop to another, and
made purchases of some pretty things, which we
hope may serve to show friends at home that we did
not quite forget them.</p>
<p class="text">The Passage d'Orleans will never die out from
my memory, nor shall I ever forget the Café d'Orleans,
with its mirrors, walls, and ceilings, all radiant
with a thousand lights. We find at every few steps
the magazine for the Indian weed, and all varieties
of pipe, from the commonest <i>en bois</i> to the elegantly
carved <i>ecume de mer</i>, which would cost two or three
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_181" id="Page_181" title="181"></SPAN></span>hundred francs. Here, too, are the Theatres Français
and Palais Royal, and other places of amusement.</p>
<p class="text">In our walks about the city we are sure to have
all the notable places pointed out; and one morning,
just after I had obtained a Henry IV. silver coin, in
fine preservation, we were taken home by a long
walk through the Rue St. Honore. The house
No. 3, in this street, is the one in front of which
Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. A bust of
the king stands against the second story, with an inscription.
In the Rue Vivienne, No. 34, we saw the
house where Molière died, on which is a marble tablet,
with this inscription: "<i>Molière est mort dans
cette maison, le </i>17<i> Février</i>, 1673, <i>à l'âge de</i> 51 <i>ans.</i>"
At the corner of the same street, where a small passage
way branches off, is a fine monument to the
memory of the great poet and the noblest comic
writer of France. The statue is of bronze, in a sitting
posture; on each side are figures,—one humorous,
the other serious,—both looking at the statue. At
the foot of the monument is a basin to receive water,
which flows from three lions' heads. This work was
put up in 1844, with public services, on which occasion
the first men of France took a part. Another
morning's walk led us to the Rue de l'École de
Médecine, and in this street Marat lived, at No. 20,
and here it was, in a small room, that he was
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_182" id="Page_182" title="182"></SPAN></span>stabbed, while bathing, by Charlotte Corday, in
1793. And in this same street was held the old
club of the Cordeliers.</p>
<p class="text">When I see the places of which I have heard so
often it seems very interesting, and will forever identify
the scenes with my future reading.</p>
<p class="text">We all enjoyed a visit to the palace of the Luxembourg.
This edifice was begun in the sixteenth
century, and the present palace was chiefly built early
in the next one, by Marie de Medicis, in imitation
of one at Florence. Bonaparte used it when chief
consul. The old senate held its sessions there till
its dissolution, in 1814. I never saw a building
whose proportions appeared to me so elegant. The
court is a parallelogram of three hundred and sixty
by three hundred feet. The front consists of two
pavilions, joined by terraces, and in the centre rises
a cupola, around which are statues. In such a palace
fine rooms are to be expected, and here they
are in great number. The Senate Chamber or
Chamber of Peers, is very suitable for its purpose.
The library is good, and contains about fifteen thousand
volumes. The picture gallery is large, and at
present principally filled with pictures of living artists,
and at his death the picture of each one is removed
to the Louvre. All the great paintings of
Napoleon's battles are gone to Versailles; so we shall
see them in the series. The chapel is an exquisite
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_183" id="Page_183" title="183"></SPAN></span>gem: it has, beyond all comparison, the most devotional
air of any thing I have seen <i>of the sort</i>.</p>
<p class="text">The gardens are fine, and have some noble terraces,
adorned with plenty of statues, some of which
are quite old; but a great many new ones, by living
artists, are rapidly taking their places. The balustrades
of the terraces are beautified with groups of
children, athletæ, &c. Here are some fine old orange-trees,
which were throwing out their blossoms
most fragrantly; and I must not forget the noble
clusters of chestnut-trees which are on the sides of
the walks. The garden is a lovely spot, and I saw
hundreds of old and young, who seemed to enjoy
themselves highly. I am half surprised to find myself
more delighted in Europe with the completeness
and splendor of the gardens and public grounds than
with the palaces and their internal gorgeousness. If
I could carry back to my own beloved country any
thing from England or France, it should be their gardens,
their walks, their libraries and museums. As to
the comforts and elegances of life, we have enough
of them for our good. The Musée d'Artillerie is
quite a place of interest, and here are seen some
fine suits of ancient armor. The arrangement is
good, and an hour's attention is well repaid.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p>
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