<h2><SPAN name="Letter_28" id="Letter_28"></SPAN>Letter 28.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">On a fine morning we rode over to the Jardin des
Plantes, accompanied by Mr. R——, whose long
residence has made him very familiar with this
lovely spot. I think we all looked forward to this
excursion with great anticipation, because we knew
that this was the most famous garden in Europe; and
then, in connection with it, are the richest cabinets
in the world of natural history, mineralogy, geology,
and a noble collection of living animals from
all countries. Ever since 1635, the world has
been placed under contribution to enrich this spot.
The greatest botanists and naturalists of Europe
have labored here. Buffon himself was the great
man of the place in his day. Even revolutionary
fury spared this retreat and treasury of Nature.
Bonaparte made it his pet, and when the troops of
Europe were at the walls of Paris, they agreed to
respect and preserve the spot so dear to science.
This establishment is on the banks of the river, and
there are many portals by which entrance may be
obtained. The gardens are very large, but I cannot
speak of their exact size. They are in the neatest
order. Every shrub and flower, plant and tree,
is labelled, so that reference is easy. I was delighted
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_193" id="Page_193" title="193"></SPAN></span>to see, on a lofty eminence, the cedar of Lebanon.
It is a glorious tree, and was planted here in 1734,
and is now about twelve feet round at its base.
We also saw some palm-trees which were given by
Louis XIV. They were, I should think, nearly
thirty feet high.</p>
<p class="text">The Menagerie has long been famous, and is most
admirably laid out in walks and enclosures, so that
the animals have plenty of room for exercise and
pasture. Since the days of Noah's ark, I suppose
there never was such a collection of animals,
clean and unclean. The bears, elephants,
lions, and tigers are all what are called first-rate
specimens.</p>
<p class="text">We were pointed out the house where the celebrated
Cuvier lived, and which was his favorite residence.
Here was his life's labor, the Zoölogical
Cabinet, which he arranged according to his system.
Only fancy a house about four hundred feet long,
having three stories, and all filled up with nearly
two hundred thousand specimens; and the preparations
are almost as fine as the animal was in life.</p>
<p class="text">The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, also, was
the labor of Cuvier. The collections of mineralogy
and geology are very extensive; but I did not have
much time to examine them, nor are they as much
in my line as some other things. The specimens of
precious stones were curious, and I was pleased to
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_194" id="Page_194" title="194"></SPAN></span>see amber containing perfect insects, perhaps antediluvian
insects. And so we employed three hours
upon what I should have liked to pass three whole
days. But it would take years of diligent study
to understand what is here to be seen.</p>
<p class="text">If a person walks about Paris and inquires much
as to the history of the city and its improvements,
as we Americans say, he will soon find that Paris
has been chiefly indebted for her grandeur to Henry
IV., Louis XIV., Napoleon, and Louis Philippe.
Bridges, places, arches, and fountains show how
much Paris owes to these rulers. Of fountains there
are, I should think, nearly a hundred in the city, and
some are exceedingly fine. The Seine is not much
of an affair. With us, it would be only a muddy
brook. Some of the bridges that span it are fine.
I have seen nothing in Paris more picturesque than
the prospect from the Pont Neuf. It is my favorite
stand point. Off to the right are the towers of
Notre Dame, and the long line of old houses which
tell of centuries upon centuries since they were
built; and on the left of the river are the Hotel de
Ville, St. Germain L'Auxerrois; and some of the
most venerable streets. From the bell tower of St.
Germain the signal was rung for the infamous massacre
of the Protestants, on St. Bartholomew's eve,
23d of August, 1572. In the Rue de l'Arbre sec, at
No. 14, was Admiral Coligny murdered on that
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_195" id="Page_195" title="195"></SPAN></span>occasion. It was formerly known as the Hotel
Ponthieu, but is to be demolished in a few weeks, to
make way for improvements. We felt a desire to
see the spot where the Bastile formerly stood, and
which was destroyed by the mob in July, 1789, and
the key of which is now at Mount Vernon, having
been sent as a present to Washington. This was
the theatre of the greatest resistance made by the
insurgents in June, 1848; and here, too, it was that
the Archbishop of Paris met with his death. On
the site of the Bastile, Louis Philippe laid the foundation
of a column which commemorates the revolution
of 1830. This column is of bronze, and is
one hundred and sixty-three feet high, in addition to
the pedestal of white marble, supported by immense
granite blocks. The diameter of the column is, I
believe, twelve feet, and it cost about twelve hundred
thousand francs. There is no masonry in the interior.
The staircase is suspended, and the whole
concern vibrates with the passing breeze. I did not
ascend, you may be sure. The Corinthian capital,
over which is a gallery with rails, is very beautiful,
and is the largest casting in bronze that is known—or,
rather, was, for I <i>think</i> that the Amazon at the
London Exhibition will take the palm for size. On
the globe which surmounts the pillar stands a colossal
gilt figure, which represents Liberty. On the
bands which encircle the pillar are the names of
<!-- <span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_196" id="Page_196" title="196"></SPAN></span> -->
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_197" id="Page_197" title="197"></SPAN></span>
those who were killed in the three days of July,
amounting to fire hundred and four. All around
and beneath are interred the remains of these patriots.</p>
<p><br/></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="Colonne_de_Juillet" id="Colonne_de_Juillet"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/pg199.png"><ANTIMG src="images/pg199_th.png" width-obs="174" height-obs="400" alt="Colonne de Juillet." title="Colonne de Juillet." /></SPAN><span class="caption">Colonne de Juillet.</span></div>
<p><br/></p>
<p class="text">We are going to take the Cemetery at Père la
Chaise for to-morrow's excursion; and the rest of
the day I must devote to letters home, as the packet
day is close at hand.</p>
<p class="center">Yours,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p>
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