<h2><SPAN name="Letter_29" id="Letter_29"></SPAN>Letter 29.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">This morning, as we were taking a very comfortable
breakfast at the coffee-room of our hotel, and
as I was reading Galignani's daily paper, I found a
person at the next table addressing me, in nasal
twang, "Stranger, is this fellow Galignani a reliable
chap?" I assured him that he passed for an
authority. Laying down his paper on the table, he
pathetically described the tramp which the programme
for the sight-seeing of yesterday's paper
had given him, and declared his inability to keep up
with the instructions for that day. Finding that he
was a character, I carried on the conversation; and
he talked most edifyingly to all in the room, as he
spoke loud enough to be heard at the very end. I
inquired if he had been to London. His reply was,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_198" id="Page_198" title="198"></SPAN></span>"I reckon I have; why, I come on purpose to see
the <i>Crystial</i> Palace." "Well, sir," I said, "and
how did you like it?" "O, that exhibition is some!"
"And pray, sir, what did you think of the Greek
Slave?" "There, now, stranger, I takes it that
where she were raised <i>cotton was dreadful scarce."</i>
This, was too much and too good; and I think it is by
far the best thing I have heard about the exhibition.
How the boys managed to keep quiet, I know not;
but they did as well as could be expected. The
room was thoroughly awake, and I resigned our
countryman to other hands.</p>
<p class="text">After breakfast, we rode to the Cemetery of Père
la Chaise. This spot has for centuries been celebrated
for its beauty; and, for a period of more
than one hundred years, the Jesuits had a country
residence here. They had it early in the sixteenth
century, or, perhaps, at the close of the fifteenth.
Louis XIV. made his confessor, Père la Chaise, the
superior of the society; and in 1705 it was the
head-quarters of Jesuitism in France.</p>
<p class="text">The present cemetery was consecrated in 1804;
and the entire grounds are walled in, and they
are very nearly two hundred acres. You know
how much I admire Greenwood and Mount Auburn.
Well, I still prefer them to this Golgotha. The
walks are some of them fine, but the tombs are too
thick. There is no regularity. It looks as though
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_199" id="Page_199" title="199"></SPAN></span>there had been a rain storm of tombs and monuments,
and they lie as they fell. This is the very
metropolis of death. Some of the monuments are
elegant indeed, but often their beauties are hidden.
The most attractive spot to us was the resting-place
of "the bravest of the brave." Ney yet has no
monument. The tombs of Casimir Perrier, the
Countess Demidoff, Abelard and Héloise, General
Macdonald, Lavalette, Gobert, Foy, Molière, Laplace,
and Junot are some that pleased us most, and are
exquisite specimens of art. Many of these tombs
have small rooms, with altars and glass doors. Opposite
the altar is a chair, and we saw several
mourners in devout attitude at the shrine of affection.
I have heard from a Parisian of great intelligence,
and who has been connected with the city
government, that very nearly, if not quite, thirty
millions of dollars have been spent upon this cemetery.
Of course, the expense of sculpture here has
been enormous, as the best talent of Europe has
contributed to adorn the spot, and perpetuate the
memory of the departed.</p>
<p class="text">On leaving this charnel-house of mortality, we
drove to the Abattoir de Popincourt, which is the
largest in the city, and occupies six hundred and
forty-five feet by fire hundred and seventy. On entering,
we found four slaughter-houses, each standing
alone. Here, too, are sheds for four thousand
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_200" id="Page_200" title="200"></SPAN></span>sheep, and stables for four hundred oxen. There
are also four melting-houses. We also noticed a
large building called the <i>Triperie</i>, for preparing tripe
and the feet of animals. The week we were there
the statistics of slaughter were as follows: Eight
hundred and seventy-two oxen, three hundred and
fifty-six cows, seven hundred calves, and two thousand
eight hundred and seventy-five sheep. Nothing
of the sort can be kept cleaner than this establishment.
The water ran down every channel, and
very little blood could be seen, or effluvia noticed.
When will New York have its <i>abattoirs</i>? No city
in the world needs such an auxiliary to health and
comfort more than she does. Perhaps the good
people will call for one after a few more visitations
of cholera. There are four other similar establishments
in Paris.</p>
<p class="text">We had a nice ride home round the boulevards,
and, stopping at the consul's office, found a famous
budget of letters and papers, and with great pleasure
we addressed ourselves to their contents. I am
amused to see how various are the demands made
upon the time and services of a consul. He needs
to have the patience of Job; and if he answers satisfactorily
and authoritatively the questions which I
have heard propounded, he ought to have in his
library the acts of every state legislature in the
Union. Marriage, death, removal of deceased rela<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_201" id="Page_201" title="201"></SPAN></span>tives
from their places of sepulture, rates of interest,
value of stocks, condition of railroads, and statistics
of all sorts have been topics which I have heard laid
before him for advice and opinion. Very few men,
however, possess more general knowledge of the
United States than our consul—Mr. Goodrich—does;
and his kindness will lead him to do all he
can to satisfy the querist.</p>
<p class="center">Yours, as ever,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p>
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