<h2><SPAN name="Letter_49" id="Letter_49"></SPAN>Letter 49.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">Our stay here at our present visit will be several
days longer than we expected. We have to get
clothing and various articles which can be obtained
here to more advantage than in England or at home.
We have been to some large jewelry establishments
and made selections of presents for our
absent but remembered friends. One morning we
spent very pleasantly at a celebrated depot of glass
manufactures. The display was very large, and
also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections.
The taste of the French is very great, and a large
part of this population must live by furnishing the
rest of the world with mere matters of <i>bijouterie</i>.</p>
<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_321" id="Page_321" title="321"></SPAN></span>We have had the pleasure to meet several of the
doctor's acquaintances from America; and among
others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr.
Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond,
Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr. Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr.
Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in getting
acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have
met several times. He is quite a young-looking
man for one who holds his important position
of speaker of the New York House of Assembly.
I should not think him to be more than twenty-six
or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr.
Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The
World's Progress,"—the book of dates,—and
one which I recommend you, Charley, always to
keep on your table, within reach, for reference.</p>
<p class="text">If I live to return home, I have much to do that
never before appeared to me of so great importance.
I want to become thoroughly conversant
with English and French history; for, in a certain
sense, these countries embody the history of the
world. Not to know what happened before we
were born, is always to be children; and if my
journey has done me no other good, it has very
clearly shown me how little I know, and how very
much I ought to understand, and must, if I would
take my place among intelligent, well-educated men.
I am sure, too, that I have acquired on this journey
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_322" id="Page_322" title="322"></SPAN></span>a desire to make improvement. Every where I find
the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot,
for very shame, be willing to go through life and
enjoy the means of improvement, without deriving
profit. We have met with very kind attentions
from Mr. Hector Bossange, the great bookseller,
who invited us to dinner. He is a gentleman of
great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet
I have noticed that such persons seem to have time
for every one and every thing. I have noticed this
at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men
who have so much to do, and so many persons to
see and be polite to, must work very hard at times,
or else they understand the way to get through business
in a patent method. These busy men seem to
have read every thing; and even in new books they
keep up with the times. They must do it, I guess,
by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes
are the golden sands of life."</p>
<p class="text">George is going to stay here for four or five
months, and the doctor is busy in finding him a
suitable home and getting him an outfit.</p>
<p class="text">You would perhaps like to hear a little about the
Hospital des Invalides, where the old soldiers of
France bring up when past labor. It is a vast
building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however,
enclose fifteen various courts. It is governed and
managed by the senior marshal of France, a lieu
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<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_325" id="Page_325" title="325"></SPAN></span>
tenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel
major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant
majors, one almoner, two chaplains, one apothecary
and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of charity, and
two hundred and sixty servants. There are about
one hundred and seventy officers, and about three
thousand fire hundred invalids in all. This is a
truly magnificent building, both architecturally considered
and in its interior arrangements. The
council chamber is very fine, and here are some
admirable portraits and the best statue of Napoleon
that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at
present invisible, on account of the alterations going
on to complete the tomb of Napoleon. This will
be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The
sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the
access is by steps of green marble.</p>
<p><br/></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="Sarcophagus" id="Sarcophagus"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/pg326.png"><ANTIMG src="images/pg326_th.png" width-obs="400" height-obs="196" alt="Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key" title="Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key" /></SPAN><span class="caption">Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key</span></div>
<p><br/></p>
<p class="text">Here is a good library and some MSS. of the
two prime ministers, Sully and Colbert; a good
picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon
ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his
equestrian statue in gold and silver.</p>
<p class="text">My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the
Tuileries. I am never weary of this place. Here
are the finest flowers, the best walks, the gayest
company, the prettiest children, and the densest
shade, if you please to go into it, in Paris. Then,
too, there are groups of statuary, and fountains with
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_326" id="Page_326" title="326"></SPAN></span>lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I
would like to have you walking in that thick forest
growth; there is no underbrush; I can see from
one side to the other. After a long walk, you come
to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and
just beyond is the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined.
I do not believe there is a nobler view in
Europe than now opens to the spectator. There
before me is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was
brought from Egypt, and now stands in the Place
de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present
position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a
noble object, and my eye ever rests on it with
pleasure.</p>
<p class="text">Just think, Charley, that you are at my side:
turn round, and look at the gardens we have left.
There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace of the
Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of
the citizen king, and now the Palace National. Off
to the right is the Seine and its long line of quays;
here is the bridge; and just across it is the Chamber
of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns,
I like this building exceedingly. To our left is a
long, stately range, known as the Rue Rivoli, in
which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front;
for foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns
to support and adorn it. At this end of it are public
offices. Now turn and look at our left; and see,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_327" id="Page_327" title="327"></SPAN></span>a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end
you see the pride of the city, the Madeleine. There
it is, all white, and its stately columns tell of Greece.
Now, if you turn your back upon the Tuileries,
you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs
Elysées, and look down along through that splendid
avenue, and there see the finest thing in France—Bonaparte's
triumphal arch. One word about this
arch. It is the work of the emperor, who ordered
its erection in 1806, when the foundation was laid.
In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was resumed
in honor of the Duke d'Angoulême's victories
in Spain. In 1830 its original intention was
adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and its cost
was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast
arch, ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide, with
entablature and attic. Its total height is one hundred
and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and
thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the
fronts are colossal groups, in which the figures are
eighteen feet. All these are historical, and tell of
the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend
this wonderful work of art by two hundred and
sixty steps, and get the best view of Paris. Close
by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have
told you, I suppose, during our last visit.</p>
<p class="text">At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel
of St. Ferdinand, built on the spot where the Duke
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_328" id="Page_328" title="328"></SPAN></span>of Orleans died, by a fall from his carriage, in 1842.
It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and is
of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects—the
marble group descriptive of the dying prince,
and at his head an angel in supplication; this angel
was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess Marie.
The painted windows are exquisite representations
of the patron saints of the royal family. Behind
the altar is the room in which the duke died, now
used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a
picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw
this, as the rest of the party were not able to be
there.</p>
<p class="text">The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne.
The building is a dark-looking affair, five
hundred and forty feet long and one hundred and
thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred
feet by ninety, and that is flanked with buildings.
The library is in five sections: first, manuscripts;
second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth;
medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection
of early printing that Europe can show is in this
place. You will be surprised when I tell you that
there are here one million five hundred thousand
works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities
that are to be seen here—gems, cameos, antiques,
swords, armors, models, portraits, busts; and then,
as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_329" id="Page_329" title="329"></SPAN></span>break the tenth commandment when he looked at
the letters of this collection in glass cases. The
engravings alone are a study for months.</p>
<p class="text">I have to see my tailor, Mr. Woodman, who is a
capital one; and then I must go to Forr, the boot-maker,
of whom let me tell you a story. The doctor
went to be measured, when we first arrived, and
the man told him it was not necessary, as he had
his measure. "How so?" he inquired. "Why,
sir," replied the man, "I remember you fifteen
years ago, at the Hotel Windsor;" and taking
down his book, showed him his name, number of
his room, &c. This I think a pretty considerable
proof of memory, and equal to what we are told
of some of our American landlords, who are said
never to forget a face.</p>
<p class="text">These engagements discharged, and I am ready
to pack up. We all feel sad at leaving George,
who has been a kind and amiable companion; but
we hope soon to see him again.</p>
<p class="text">Let me tell you that we are to have a new
teacher. Dr. C. has engaged M. Oudin, a graduate
of the University of Paris, to return with us. This
gentleman is married; and we are all pleased with
him and expect, of course, to profit under his
instructions.</p>
<p class="text">M. Oudin has taken us to see a very curious
manufactory of fruits, fishes, &c. They certainly
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_330" id="Page_330" title="330"></SPAN></span>are lifelike. Then, too, there is a branch of this
establishment devoted to the preparation of medical
representations of disease, and the skill exhibited is
very great. Our next letter will, I fancy, be from
Old England. I feel sad at leaving France, for I do
like her capital; and then I cannot help a fear that
she has dark days not very far off. She talks of
liberty at all her corners, but she seems to have none
in her conduct of the daily press. There are too
many soldiers here to please an American. At
home we have all the blessings of government, and
do not see the machinery. We have no soldiers to
keep us moving along. I shall always think with
pleasure of our month in this city; and if I ever
come again, I have work chalked out for three
months, at least.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p>
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