<SPAN name="chap10"></SPAN>
<h3> CHAPTER X: ON THE WAY </h3>
<p class="poem">
Mirum est ut animus agitatione motuque corporis excitetur.<br/>
Pliny's Letters.<br/></p>
<p>[158] MANY points in that train of thought, its harder and more
energetic practical details especially, at first surmised but vaguely
in the intervals of his visits to the tomb of Flavian, attained the
coherence of formal principle amid the stirring incidents of the
journey, which took him, still in all the buoyancy of his nineteen
years and greatly expectant, to Rome. That summons had come from one
of the former friends of his father in the capital, who had kept
himself acquainted with the lad's progress, and, assured of his parts,
his courtly ways, above all of his beautiful penmanship, now offered
him a place, virtually that of an amanuensis, near the person of the
philosophic emperor. The old town-house of his family on the Caelian
hill, so long neglected, might well require his personal care; and
Marius, relieved a little by his preparations for travelling from a
certain over-tension [159] of spirit in which he had lived of late, was
presently on his way, to await introduction to Aurelius, on his
expected return home, after a first success, illusive enough as it was
soon to appear, against the invaders from beyond the Danube.</p>
<p>The opening stage of his journey, through the firm, golden weather, for
which he had lingered three days beyond the appointed time of
starting—days brown with the first rains of autumn—brought him, by
the byways among the lower slopes of the Apennines of Luna, to the town
of Luca, a station on the Cassian Way; travelling so far mainly on
foot, while the baggage followed under the care of his attendants. He
wore a broad felt hat, in fashion not unlike a more modern pilgrim's,
the neat head projecting from the collar of his gray paenula, or
travelling mantle, sewed closely together over the breast, but with its
two sides folded up upon the shoulders, to leave the arms free in
walking, and was altogether so trim and fresh, that, as he climbed the
hill from Pisa, by the long steep lane through the olive-yards, and
turned to gaze where he could just discern the cypresses of the old
school garden, like two black lines down the yellow walls, a little
child took possession of his hand, and, looking up at him with entire
confidence, paced on bravely at his side, for the mere pleasure of his
company, to the spot where the road declined again [160] into the
valley beyond. From this point, leaving the servants behind, he
surrendered himself, a willing subject, as he walked, to the
impressions of the road, and was almost surprised, both at the
suddenness with which evening came on, and the distance from his old
home at which it found him.</p>
<p>And at the little town of Luca, he felt that indescribable sense of a
welcoming in the mere outward appearance of things, which seems to mark
out certain places for the special purpose of evening rest, and gives
them always a peculiar amiability in retrospect. Under the deepening
twilight, the rough-tiled roofs seem to huddle together side by side,
like one continuous shelter over the whole township, spread low and
broad above the snug sleeping-rooms within; and the place one sees for
the first time, and must tarry in but for a night, breathes the very
spirit of home. The cottagers lingered at their doors for a few
minutes as the shadows grew larger, and went to rest early; though
there was still a glow along the road through the shorn corn-fields,
and the birds were still awake about the crumbling gray heights of an
old temple. So quiet and air-swept was the place, you could hardly
tell where the country left off in it, and the field-paths became its
streets. Next morning he must needs change the manner of his journey.
The light baggage-wagon returned, and he proceeded now more quickly,
travelling [161] a stage or two by post, along the Cassian Way, where
the figures and incidents of the great high-road seemed already to tell
of the capital, the one centre to which all were hastening, or had
lately bidden adieu. That Way lay through the heart of the old,
mysterious and visionary country of Etruria; and what he knew of its
strange religion of the dead, reinforced by the actual sight of the
funeral houses scattered so plentifully among the dwelling-places of
the living, revived in him for a while, in all its strength, his old
instinctive yearning towards those inhabitants of the shadowy land he
had known in life. It seemed to him that he could half divine how time
passed in those painted houses on the hillsides, among the gold and
silver ornaments, the wrought armour and vestments, the drowsy and dead
attendants; and the close consciousness of that vast population gave
him no fear, but rather a sense of companionship, as he climbed the
hills on foot behind the horses, through the genial afternoon.</p>
<p>The road, next day, passed below a town not less primitive, it might
seem, than its rocky perch—white rocks, that had long been glistening
before him in the distance. Down the dewy paths the people were
descending from it, to keep a holiday, high and low alike in rough,
white-linen smocks. A homely old play was just begun in an open-air
theatre, with seats hollowed out of the turf-grown slope. Marius [162]
caught the terrified expression of a child in its mother's arms, as it
turned from the yawning mouth of a great mask, for refuge in her bosom.
The way mounted, and descended again, down the steep street of another
place, all resounding with the noise of metal under the hammer; for
every house had its brazier's workshop, the bright objects of brass and
copper gleaming, like lights in a cave, out of their dark roofs and
corners. Around the anvils the children were watching the work, or ran
to fetch water to the hissing, red-hot metal; and Marius too watched,
as he took his hasty mid-day refreshment, a mess of chestnut-meal and
cheese, while the swelling surface of a great copper water-vessel grew
flowered all over with tiny petals under the skilful strokes. Towards
dusk, a frantic woman at the roadside, stood and cried out the words of
some philter, or malison, in verse, with weird motion of her hands, as
the travellers passed, like a wild picture drawn from Virgil.</p>
<p>But all along, accompanying the superficial grace of these incidents of
the way, Marius noted, more and more as he drew nearer to Rome, marks
of the great plague. Under Hadrian and his successors, there had been
many enactments to improve the condition of the slave. The ergastula+
were abolished. But no system of free labour had as yet succeeded. A
whole mendicant population, artfully exaggerating every symptom and
circumstance of misery, still hung [163] around, or sheltered
themselves within, the vast walls of their old, half-ruined
task-houses. And for the most part they had been variously stricken by
the pestilence. For once, the heroic level had been reached in rags,
squints, scars—every caricature of the human type—ravaged beyond what
could have been thought possible if it were to survive at all.
Meantime, the farms were less carefully tended than of old: here and
there they were lapsing into their natural wildness: some villas also
were partly fallen into ruin. The picturesque, romantic Italy of a
later time—the Italy of Claude and Salvator Rosa—was already forming,
for the delight of the modern romantic traveller.</p>
<p>And again Marius was aware of a real change in things, on crossing the
Tiber, as if some magic effect lay in that; though here, in truth, the
Tiber was but a modest enough stream of turbid water. Nature, under the
richer sky, seemed readier and more affluent, and man fitter to the
conditions around him: even in people hard at work there appeared to be
a less burdensome sense of the mere business of life. How dreamily the
women were passing up through the broad light and shadow of the steep
streets with the great water-pots resting on their heads, like women of
Caryae, set free from slavery in old Greek temples. With what a fresh,
primeval poetry was daily existence here impressed—all the details of
the threshing-floor and the vineyard; [164] the common farm-life even;
the great bakers' fires aglow upon the road in the evening. In the
presence of all this Marius felt for a moment like those old, early,
unconscious poets, who created the famous Greek myths of Dionysus, and
the Great Mother, out of the imagery of the wine-press and the
ploughshare. And still the motion of the journey was bringing his
thoughts to systematic form. He seemed to have grown to the fulness of
intellectual manhood, on his way hither. The formative and literary
stimulus, so to call it, of peaceful exercise which he had always
observed in himself, doing its utmost now, the form and the matter of
thought alike detached themselves clearly and with readiness from the
healthfully excited brain.—"It is wonderful," says Pliny, "how the
mind is stirred to activity by brisk bodily exercise." The presentable
aspects of inmost thought and feeling became evident to him: the
structure of all he meant, its order and outline, defined itself: his
general sense of a fitness and beauty in words became effective in
daintily pliant sentences, with all sorts of felicitous linking of
figure to abstraction. It seemed just then as if the desire of the
artist in him—that old longing to produce—might be satisfied by the
exact and literal transcript of what was then passing around him, in
simple prose, arresting the desirable moment as it passed, and
prolonging its life a little.—To live in the concrete! To be sure, at
least, of [165] one's hold upon that!—Again, his philosophic scheme
was but the reflection of the data of sense, and chiefly of sight, a
reduction to the abstract, of the brilliant road he travelled on,
through the sunshine.</p>
<p>But on the seventh evening there came a reaction in the cheerful flow
of our traveller's thoughts, a reaction with which mere bodily fatigue,
asserting itself at last over his curiosity, had much to do; and he
fell into a mood, known to all passably sentimental wayfarers, as night
deepens again and again over their path, in which all journeying, from
the known to the unknown, comes suddenly to figure as a mere foolish
truancy—like a child's running away from home—with the feeling that
one had best return at once, even through the darkness. He had chosen
to climb on foot, at his leisure, the long windings by which the road
ascended to the place where that day's stage was to end, and found
himself alone in the twilight, far behind the rest of his
travelling-companions. Would the last zigzag, round and round those
dark masses, half natural rock, half artificial substructure, ever
bring him within the circuit of the walls above? It was now that a
startling incident turned those misgivings almost into actual fear.
From the steep slope a heavy mass of stone was detached, after some
whisperings among the trees above his head, and rushing down through
the stillness fell to pieces in a [166] cloud of dust across the road
just behind him, so that he felt the touch upon his heel. That was
sufficient, just then, to rouse out of its hiding-place his old vague
fear of evil—of one's "enemies"—a distress, so much a matter of
constitution with him, that at times it would seem that the best
pleasures of life could but be snatched, as it were hastily, in one
moment's forgetfulness of its dark, besetting influence. A sudden
suspicion of hatred against him, of the nearness of "enemies," seemed
all at once to alter the visible form of things, as with the child's
hero, when he found the footprint on the sand of his peaceful, dreamy
island. His elaborate philosophy had not put beneath his feet the
terror of mere bodily evil; much less of "inexorable fate, and the
noise of greedy Acheron."</p>
<p>The resting-place to which he presently came, in the keen, wholesome
air of the market-place of the little hill-town, was a pleasant
contrast to that last effort of his journey. The room in which he sat
down to supper, unlike the ordinary Roman inns at that day, was trim
and sweet. The firelight danced cheerfully upon the polished,
three-wicked lucernae burning cleanly with the best oil, upon the
white-washed walls, and the bunches of scarlet carnations set in glass
goblets. The white wine of the place put before him, of the true
colour and flavour of the grape, and with a ring of delicate foam as it
mounted in the cup, had a reviving edge or freshness he had [167] found
in no other wine. These things had relieved a little the melancholy of
the hour before; and it was just then that he heard the voice of one,
newly arrived at the inn, making his way to the upper floor—a youthful
voice, with a reassuring clearness of note, which completed his cure.</p>
<p>He seemed to hear that voice again in dreams, uttering his name: then,
awake in the full morning light and gazing from the window, saw the
guest of the night before, a very honourable-looking youth, in the rich
habit of a military knight, standing beside his horse, and already
making preparations to depart. It happened that Marius, too, was to
take that day's journey on horseback. Riding presently from the inn,
he overtook Cornelius—of the Twelfth Legion—advancing carefully down
the steep street; and before they had issued from the gates of
Urbs-vetus, the two young men had broken into talk together. They were
passing along the street of the goldsmiths; and Cornelius must needs
enter one of the workshops for the repair of some button or link of his
knightly trappings. Standing in the doorway, Marius watched the work,
as he had watched the brazier's business a few days before, wondering
most at the simplicity of its processes, a simplicity, however, on
which only genius in that craft could have lighted.—By what
unguessed-at stroke of hand, for instance, had the grains of precious
metal associated themselves [168] with so daintily regular a roughness,
over the surface of the little casket yonder? And the conversation
which followed, hence arising, left the two travellers with sufficient
interest in each other to insure an easy companionship for the
remainder of their journey. In time to come, Marius was to depend very
much on the preferences, the personal judgments, of the comrade who now
laid his hand so brotherly on his shoulder, as they left the workshop.</p>
<p>Itineris matutini gratiam capimus,+—observes one of our scholarly
travellers; and their road that day lay through a country, well-fitted,
by the peculiarity of its landscape, to ripen a first acquaintance into
intimacy; its superficial ugliness throwing the wayfarers back upon
each other's entertainment in a real exchange of ideas, the tension of
which, however, it would relieve, ever and anon, by the unexpected
assertion of something singularly attractive. The immediate aspect of
the land was, indeed, in spite of abundant olive and ilex, unpleasing
enough. A river of clay seemed, "in some old night of time," to have
burst up over valley and hill, and hardened there into fantastic
shelves and slides and angles of cadaverous rock, up and down among the
contorted vegetation; the hoary roots and trunks seeming to confess
some weird kinship with them. But that was long ago; and these pallid
hillsides needed only the declining sun, touching the rock with purple,
and throwing deeper shadow into [169] the immemorial foliage, to put on
a peculiar, because a very grave and austere, kind of beauty; while the
graceful outlines common to volcanic hills asserted themselves in the
broader prospect. And, for sentimental Marius, all this was
associated, by some perhaps fantastic affinity, with a peculiar trait
of severity, beyond his guesses as to the secret of it, which mingled
with the blitheness of his new companion. Concurring, indeed, with the
condition of a Roman soldier, it was certainly something far more than
the expression of military hardness, or asc�sis; and what was earnest,
or even austere, in the landscape they had traversed together, seemed
to have been waiting for the passage of this figure to interpret or
inform it. Again, as in his early days with Flavian, a vivid personal
presence broke through the dreamy idealism, which had almost come to
doubt of other men's reality: reassuringly, indeed, yet not without
some sense of a constraining tyranny over him from without.</p>
<p>For Cornelius, returning from the campaign, to take up his quarters on
the Palatine, in the imperial guard, seemed to carry about with him, in
that privileged world of comely usage to which he belonged, the
atmosphere of some still more jealously exclusive circle. They halted
on the morrow at noon, not at an inn, but at the house of one of the
young soldier's friends, whom they found absent, indeed, in consequence
of the [170] plague in those parts, so that after a mid-day rest only,
they proceeded again on their journey. The great room of the villa, to
which they were admitted, had lain long untouched; and the dust rose,
as they entered, into the slanting bars of sunlight, that fell through
the half-closed shutters. It was here, to while away the time, that
Cornelius bethought himself of displaying to his new friend the various
articles and ornaments of his knightly array—the breastplate, the
sandals and cuirass, lacing them on, one by one, with the assistance of
Marius, and finally the great golden bracelet on the right arm,
conferred on him by his general for an act of valour. And as he
gleamed there, amid that odd interchange of light and shade, with the
staff of a silken standard firm in his hand, Marius felt as if he were
face to face, for the first time, with some new knighthood or chivalry,
just then coming into the world.</p>
<p>It was soon after they left this place, journeying now by carriage,
that Rome was seen at last, with much excitement on the part of our
travellers; Cornelius, and some others of whom the party then
consisted, agreeing, chiefly for the sake of Marius, to hasten forward,
that it might be reached by daylight, with a cheerful noise of rapid
wheels as they passed over the flagstones. But the highest light upon
the mausoleum of Hadrian was quite gone out, and it was dark, before
they reached the Flaminian Gate. The [171] abundant sound of water was
the one thing that impressed Marius, as they passed down a long street,
with many open spaces on either hand: Cornelius to his military
quarters, and Marius to the old dwelling-place of his fathers.</p>
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