<SPAN name="chap11"></SPAN>
<h3> CHAPTER XI: "THE MOST RELIGIOUS CITY IN THE WORLD" </h3>
<p>[172] MARIUS awoke early and passed curiously from room to room, noting
for more careful inspection by and by the rolls of manuscripts. Even
greater than his curiosity in gazing for the first time on this ancient
possession, was his eagerness to look out upon Rome itself, as he
pushed back curtain and shutter, and stepped forth in the fresh morning
upon one of the many balconies, with an oft-repeated dream realised at
last. He was certainly fortunate in the time of his coming to Rome.
That old pagan world, of which Rome was the flower, had reached its
perfection in the things of poetry and art—a perfection which
indicated only too surely the eve of decline. As in some vast
intellectual museum, all its manifold products were intact and in their
places, and with custodians also still extant, duly qualified to
appreciate and explain them. And at no period of history had the
material Rome itself been better worth seeing—lying there not less
consummate than that world of [173] pagan intellect which it
represented in every phase of its darkness and light. The various work
of many ages fell here harmoniously together, as yet untouched save by
time, adding the final grace of a rich softness to its complex
expression. Much which spoke of ages earlier than Nero, the great
re-builder, lingered on, antique, quaint, immeasurably venerable, like
the relics of the medieval city in the Paris of Lewis the Fourteenth:
the work of Nero's own time had come to have that sort of old world and
picturesque interest which the work of Lewis has for ourselves; while
without stretching a parallel too far we might perhaps liken the
architectural finesses of the archaic Hadrian to the more excellent
products of our own Gothic revival. The temple of Antoninus and
Faustina was still fresh in all the majesty of its closely arrayed
columns of cipollino; but, on the whole, little had been added under
the late and present emperors, and during fifty years of public quiet,
a sober brown and gray had grown apace on things. The gilding on the
roof of many a temple had lost its garishness: cornice and capital of
polished marble shone out with all the crisp freshness of real flowers,
amid the already mouldering travertine and brickwork, though the birds
had built freely among them. What Marius then saw was in many
respects, after all deduction of difference, more like the modern Rome
than the enumeration of particular losses [174] might lead us to
suppose; the Renaissance, in its most ambitious mood and with amplest
resources, having resumed the ancient classical tradition there, with
no break or obstruction, as it had happened, in any very considerable
work of the middle age. Immediately before him, on the square, steep
height, where the earliest little old Rome had huddled itself together,
arose the palace of the Caesars. Half-veiling the vast substruction of
rough, brown stone—line upon line of successive ages of builders—the
trim, old-fashioned garden walks, under their closely-woven walls of
dark glossy foliage, test of long and careful cultivation, wound
gradually, among choice trees, statues and fountains, distinct and
sparkling in the full morning sunlight, to the richly tinted mass of
pavilions and corridors above, centering in the lofty, white-marble
dwelling-place of Apollo himself.</p>
<p>How often had Marius looked forward to that first, free wandering
through Rome, to which he now went forth with a heat in the town
sunshine (like a mist of fine gold-dust spread through the air) to the
height of his desire, making the dun coolness of the narrow streets
welcome enough at intervals. He almost feared, descending the stair
hastily, lest some unforeseen accident should snatch the little cup of
enjoyment from him ere he passed the door. In such morning rambles in
places new to him, [175] life had always seemed to come at its fullest:
it was then he could feel his youth, that youth the days of which he
had already begun to count jealously, in entire possession. So the
grave, pensive figure, a figure, be it said nevertheless, fresher far
than often came across it now, moved through the old city towards the
lodgings of Cornelius, certainly not by the most direct course, however
eager to rejoin the friend of yesterday.</p>
<p>Bent as keenly on seeing as if his first day in Rome were to be also
his last, the two friends descended along the Vicus Tuscus, with its
rows of incense-stalls, into the Via Nova, where the fashionable people
were busy shopping; and Marius saw with much amusement the frizzled
heads, then � la mode. A glimpse of the Marmorata, the haven at the
river-side, where specimens of all the precious marbles of the world
were lying amid great white blocks from the quarries of Luna, took his
thoughts for a moment to his distant home. They visited the
flower-market, lingering where the coronarii pressed on them the newest
species, and purchased zinias, now in blossom (like painted flowers,
thought Marius), to decorate the folds of their togas. Loitering to
the other side of the Forum, past the great Galen's drug-shop, after a
glance at the announcements of new poems on sale attached to the
doorpost of a famous bookseller, they entered the curious [176] library
of the Temple of Peace, then a favourite resort of literary men, and
read, fixed there for all to see, the Diurnal or Gazette of the day,
which announced, together with births and deaths, prodigies and
accidents, and much mere matter of business, the date and manner of the
philosophic emperor's joyful return to his people; and, thereafter,
with eminent names faintly disguised, what would carry that day's news,
in many copies, over the provinces—a certain matter concerning the
great lady, known to be dear to him, whom he had left at home. It was
a story, with the development of which "society" had indeed for some
time past edified or amused itself, rallying sufficiently from the
panic of a year ago, not only to welcome back its ruler, but also to
relish a chronique scandaleuse; and thus, when soon after Marius saw
the world's wonder, he was already acquainted with the suspicions which
have ever since hung about her name. Twelve o'clock was come before
they left the Forum, waiting in a little crowd to hear the Accensus,
according to old custom, proclaim the hour of noonday, at the moment
when, from the steps of the Senate-house, the sun could be seen
standing between the Rostra and the Graecostasis. He exerted for this
function a strength of voice, which confirmed in Marius a judgment the
modern visitor may share with him, that Roman throats and Roman chests,
namely, must, in some peculiar way, be differently [177] constructed
from those of other people. Such judgment indeed he had formed in part
the evening before, noting, as a religious procession passed him, how
much noise a man and a boy could make, though not without a great deal
of real music, of which in truth the Romans were then as ever
passionately fond.</p>
<p>Hence the two friends took their way through the Via Flaminia, almost
along the line of the modern Corso, already bordered with handsome
villas, turning presently to the left, into the Field-of-Mars, still
the playground of Rome. But the vast public edifices were grown to be
almost continuous over the grassy expanse, represented now only by
occasional open spaces of verdure and wild-flowers. In one of these a
crowd was standing, to watch a party of athletes stripped for exercise.
Marius had been surprised at the luxurious variety of the litters borne
through Rome, where no carriage horses were allowed; and just then one
far more sumptuous than the rest, with dainty appointments of ivory and
gold, was carried by, all the town pressing with eagerness to get a
glimpse of its most beautiful woman, as she passed rapidly. Yes!
there, was the wonder of the world—the empress Faustina herself:
Marius could distinguish, could distinguish clearly, the well-known
profile, between the floating purple curtains.</p>
<p>For indeed all Rome was ready to burst into gaiety again, as it awaited
with much real [178] affection, hopeful and animated, the return of its
emperor, for whose ovation various adornments were preparing along the
streets through which the imperial procession would pass. He had left
Rome just twelve months before, amid immense gloom. The alarm of a
barbarian insurrection along the whole line of the Danube had happened
at the moment when Rome was panic-stricken by the great pestilence.</p>
<p>In fifty years of peace, broken only by that conflict in the East from
which Lucius Verus, among other curiosities, brought back the plague,
war had come to seem a merely romantic, superannuated incident of
bygone history. And now it was almost upon Italian soil. Terrible were
the reports of the numbers and audacity of the assailants. Aurelius,
as yet untried in war, and understood by a few only in the whole scope
of a really great character, was known to the majority of his subjects
as but a careful administrator, though a student of philosophy,
perhaps, as we say, a dilettante. But he was also the visible centre
of government, towards whom the hearts of a whole people turned,
grateful for fifty years of public happiness—its good genius, its
"Antonine"—whose fragile person might be foreseen speedily giving way
under the trials of military life, with a disaster like that of the
slaughter of the legions by Arminius. Prophecies of the world's
impending conflagration were easily credited: "the secular fire" would
descend from [179] heaven: superstitious fear had even demanded the
sacrifice of a human victim.</p>
<p>Marcus Aurelius, always philosophically considerate of the humours of
other people, exercising also that devout appreciation of every
religious claim which was one of his characteristic habits, had
invoked, in aid of the commonwealth, not only all native gods, but all
foreign deities as well, however strange.—"Help! Help! in the ocean
space!" A multitude of foreign priests had been welcomed to Rome, with
their various peculiar religious rites. The sacrifices made on this
occasion were remembered for centuries; and the starving poor, at
least, found some satisfaction in the flesh of those herds of "white
bulls," which came into the city, day after day, to yield the savour of
their blood to the gods.</p>
<p>In spite of all this, the legions had but followed their standards
despondently. But prestige, personal prestige, the name of "Emperor,"
still had its magic power over the nations. The mere approach of the
Roman army made an impression on the barbarians. Aurelius and his
colleague had scarcely reached Aquileia when a deputation arrived to
ask for peace. And now the two imperial "brothers" were returning home
at leisure; were waiting, indeed, at a villa outside the walls, till
the capital had made ready to receive them. But although Rome was thus
in genial reaction, with much relief, [180] and hopefulness against the
winter, facing itself industriously in damask of red and gold, those
two enemies were still unmistakably extant: the barbarian army of the
Danube was but over-awed for a season; and the plague, as we saw when
Marius was on his way to Rome, was not to depart till it had done a
large part in the formation of the melancholy picturesque of modern
Italy—till it had made, or prepared for the making of the Roman
Campagna. The old, unaffected, really pagan, peace or gaiety, of
Antoninus Pius—that genuine though unconscious humanist—was gone for
ever. And again and again, throughout this day of varied observation,
Marius had been reminded, above all else, that he was not merely in
"the most religious city of the world," as one had said, but that Rome
was become the romantic home of the wildest superstition. Such
superstition presented itself almost as religious mania in many an
incident of his long ramble,—incidents to which he gave his full
attention, though contending in some measure with a reluctance on the
part of his companion, the motive of which he did not understand till
long afterwards. Marius certainly did not allow this reluctance to
deter his own curiosity. Had he not come to Rome partly under poetic
vocation, to receive all those things, the very impress of life itself,
upon the visual, the imaginative, organ, as upon a mirror; to reflect
them; to transmute them [181] into golden words? He must observe that
strange medley of superstition, that centuries' growth, layer upon
layer, of the curiosities of religion (one faith jostling another out
of place) at least for its picturesque interest, and as an indifferent
outsider might, not too deeply concerned in the question which, if any
of them, was to be the survivor.</p>
<p>Superficially, at least, the Roman religion, allying itself with much
diplomatic economy to possible rivals, was in possession, as a vast and
complex system of usage, intertwining itself with every detail of
public and private life, attractively enough for those who had but "the
historic temper," and a taste for the past, however much a Lucian might
depreciate it. Roman religion, as Marius knew, had, indeed, been
always something to be done, rather than something to be thought, or
believed, or loved; something to be done in minutely detailed manner,
at a particular time and place, correctness in which had long been a
matter of laborious learning with a whole school of ritualists—as
also, now and again, a matter of heroic sacrifice with certain
exceptionally devout souls, as when Caius Fabius Dorso, with his life
in his hand, succeeded in passing the sentinels of the invading Gauls
to perform a sacrifice on the Quirinal, and, thanks to the divine
protection, had returned in safety. So jealous was the distinction
between sacred and profane, that, in the matter [182] of the "regarding
of days," it had made more than half the year a holiday. Aurelius had,
indeed, ordained that there should be no more than a hundred and
thirty-five festival days in the year; but in other respects he had
followed in the steps of his predecessor, Antoninus Pius—commended
especially for his "religion," his conspicuous devotion to its public
ceremonies—and whose coins are remarkable for their reference to the
oldest and most hieratic types of Roman mythology. Aurelius had
succeeded in more than healing the old feud between philosophy and
religion, displaying himself, in singular combination, as at once the
most zealous of philosophers and the most devout of polytheists, and
lending himself, with an air of conviction, to all the pageantries of
public worship. To his pious recognition of that one orderly spirit,
which, according to the doctrine of the Stoics, diffuses itself through
the world, and animates it—a recognition taking the form, with him, of
a constant effort towards inward likeness thereto, in the harmonious
order of his own soul—he had added a warm personal devotion towards
the whole multitude of the old national gods, and a great many new
foreign ones besides, by him, at least, not ignobly conceived. If the
comparison may be reverently made, there was something here of the
method by which the catholic church has added the cultus of the saints
to its worship of the one Divine Being.</p>
<p>[183] And to the view of the majority, though the emperor, as the
personal centre of religion, entertained the hope of converting his
people to philosophic faith, and had even pronounced certain public
discourses for their instruction in it, that polytheistic devotion was
his most striking feature. Philosophers, indeed, had, for the most
part, thought with Seneca, "that a man need not lift his hands to
heaven, nor ask the sacristan's leave to put his mouth to the ear of an
image, that his prayers might be heard the better."—Marcus Aurelius,
"a master in Israel," knew all that well enough. Yet his outward
devotion was much more than a concession to popular sentiment, or a
mere result of that sense of fellow-citizenship with others, which had
made him again and again, under most difficult circumstances, an
excellent comrade. Those others, too!—amid all their ignorances, what
were they but instruments in the administration of the Divine Reason,
"from end to end sweetly and strongly disposing all things"? Meantime
"Philosophy" itself had assumed much of what we conceive to be the
religious character. It had even cultivated the habit, the power, of
"spiritual direction"; the troubled soul making recourse in its hour of
destitution, or amid the distractions of the world, to this or that
director—philosopho suo—who could really best understand it.</p>
<p>And it had been in vain that the old, grave [184] and discreet religion
of Rome had set itself, according to its proper genius, to prevent or
subdue all trouble and disturbance in men's souls. In religion, as in
other matters, plebeians, as such, had a taste for movement, for
revolution; and it had been ever in the most populous quarters that
religious changes began. To the apparatus of foreign religion, above
all, recourse had been made in times of public disquietude or sudden
terror; and in those great religious celebrations, before his
proceeding against the barbarians, Aurelius had even restored the
solemnities of Isis, prohibited in the capital since the time of
Augustus, making no secret of his worship of that goddess, though her
temple had been actually destroyed by authority in the reign of
Tiberius. Her singular and in many ways beautiful ritual was now
popular in Rome. And then—what the enthusiasm of the swarming
plebeian quarters had initiated, was sure to be adopted, sooner or
later, by women of fashion. A blending of all the religions of the
ancient world had been accomplished. The new gods had arrived, had
been welcomed, and found their places; though, certainly, with no real
security, in any adequate ideal of the divine nature itself in the
background of men's minds, that the presence of the new-comer should be
edifying, or even refining. High and low addressed themselves to all
deities alike without scruple; confusing them together when they
prayed, and in the old, [185] authorised, threefold veneration of their
visible images, by flowers, incense, and ceremonial lights—those
beautiful usages, which the church, in her way through the world, ever
making spoil of the world's goods for the better uses of the human
spirit, took up and sanctified in her service.</p>
<p>And certainly "the most religious city in the world" took no care to
veil its devotion, however fantastic. The humblest house had its
little chapel or shrine, its image and lamp; while almost every one
seemed to exercise some religious function and responsibility.
Colleges, composed for the most part of slaves and of the poor,
provided for the service of the Compitalian Lares—the gods who
presided, respectively, over the several quarters of the city. In one
street, Marius witnessed an incident of the festival of the patron
deity of that neighbourhood, the way being strewn with box, the houses
tricked out gaily in such poor finery as they possessed, while the
ancient idol was borne through it in procession, arrayed in gaudy
attire the worse for wear. Numerous religious clubs had their stated
anniversaries, on which the members issued with much ceremony from
their guild-hall, or schola, and traversed the thoroughfares of Rome,
preceded, like the confraternities of the present day, by their sacred
banners, to offer sacrifice before some famous image. Black with the
perpetual smoke of lamps and incense, oftenest old and [186] ugly,
perhaps on that account the more likely to listen to the desires of the
suffering—had not those sacred effigies sometimes given sensible
tokens that they were aware? The image of the Fortune of
Women—Fortuna Muliebris, in the Latin Way, had spoken (not once only)
and declared; Bene me, Matronae! vidistis riteque dedicastis! The
Apollo of Cumae had wept during three whole nights and days. The
images in the temple of Juno Sospita had been seen to sweat. Nay!
there was blood—divine blood—in the hearts of some of them: the
images in the Grove of Feronia had sweated blood!</p>
<p>From one and all Cornelius had turned away: like the "atheist" of whom
Apuleius tells he had never once raised hand to lip in passing image or
sanctuary, and had parted from Marius finally when the latter
determined to enter the crowded doorway of a temple, on their return
into the Forum, below the Palatine hill, where the mothers were
pressing in, with a multitude of every sort of children, to touch the
lightning-struck image of the wolf-nurse of Romulus—so tender to
little ones!—just discernible in its dark shrine, amid a blaze of
lights. Marius gazed after his companion of the day, as he mounted the
steps to his lodging, singing to himself, as it seemed. Marius failed
precisely to catch the words.</p>
<p>And, as the rich, fresh evening came on, there was heard all over Rome,
far above a whisper, [187] the whole town seeming hushed to catch it
distinctly, the lively, reckless call to "play," from the sons and
daughters of foolishness, to those in whom their life was still
green—Donec virenti canities abest!—Donec virenti canities abest!+
Marius could hardly doubt how Cornelius would have taken the call. And
as for himself, slight as was the burden of positive moral obligation
with which he had entered Rome, it was to no wasteful and vagrant
affections, such as these, that his Epicureanism had committed him.</p>
<P CLASS="footnote">
NOTES</p>
<P CLASS="footnote">
187. +Horace, Odes I.ix.17. Translation: "So long as youth is fresh
and age is far away."</p>
<br/><br/><br/>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />