<p>The greater prevalence of dissipation among printers than among the
average of workmen is accordingly attributable, at least in some measure,
to the greater ease of movement and the more transient character of
acquaintance and human contact in this trade. But the substantial ground
of this high requirement in dissipation is in the last analysis no other
than that same propensity for a manifestation of dominance and pecuniary
decency which makes the French peasant-proprietor parsimonious and frugal,
and induces the American millionaire to found colleges, hospitals and
museums. If the canon of conspicuous consumption were not offset to a
considerable extent by other features of human nature, alien to it, any
saving should logically be impossible for a population situated as the
artisan and laboring classes of the cities are at present, however high
their wages or their income might be.</p>
<p>But there are other standards of repute and other, more or less
imperative, canons of conduct, besides wealth and its manifestation, and
some of these come in to accentuate or to qualify the broad, fundamental
canon of conspicuous waste. Under the simple test of effectiveness for
advertising, we should expect to find leisure and the conspicuous
consumption of goods dividing the field of pecuniary emulation pretty
evenly between them at the outset. Leisure might then be expected
gradually to yield ground and tend to obsolescence as the economic
development goes forward, and the community increases in size; while the
conspicuous consumption of goods should gradually gain in importance, both
absolutely and relatively, until it had absorbed all the available
product, leaving nothing over beyond a bare livelihood. But the actual
course of development has been somewhat different from this ideal scheme.
Leisure held the first place at the start, and came to hold a rank very
much above wasteful consumption of goods, both as a direct exponent of
wealth and as an element in the standard of decency, during the
quasi-peaceable culture. From that point onward, consumption has gained
ground, until, at present, it unquestionably holds the primacy, though it
is still far from absorbing the entire margin of production above the
subsistence minimum.</p>
<p>The early ascendency of leisure as a means of reputability is traceable to
the archaic distinction between noble and ignoble employments. Leisure is
honorable and becomes imperative partly because it shows exemption from
ignoble labor. The archaic differentiation into noble and ignoble classes
is based on an invidious distinction between employments as honorific or
debasing; and this traditional distinction grows into an imperative canon
of decency during the early quasi-peaceable stage. Its ascendency is
furthered by the fact that leisure is still fully as effective an evidence
of wealth as consumption. Indeed, so effective is it in the relatively
small and stable human environment to which the individual is exposed at
that cultural stage, that, with the aid of the archaic tradition which
deprecates all productive labor, it gives rise to a large impecunious
leisure class, and it even tends to limit the production of the
community's industry to the subsistence minimum. This extreme inhibition
of industry is avoided because slave labor, working under a compulsion
more vigorous than that of reputability, is forced to turn out a product
in excess of the subsistence minimum of the working class. The subsequent
relative decline in the use of conspicuous leisure as a basis of repute is
due partly to an increasing relative effectiveness of consumption as an
evidence of wealth; but in part it is traceable to another force, alien,
and in some degree antagonistic, to the usage of conspicuous waste.</p>
<p>This alien factor is the instinct of workmanship. Other circumstances
permitting, that instinct disposes men to look with favor upon productive
efficiency and on whatever is of human use. It disposes them to deprecate
waste of substance or effort. The instinct of workmanship is present in
all men, and asserts itself even under very adverse circumstances. So that
however wasteful a given expenditure may be in reality, it must at least
have some colorable excuse in the way of an ostensible purpose. The manner
in which, under special circumstances, the instinct eventuates in a taste
for exploit and an invidious discrimination between noble and ignoble
classes has been indicated in an earlier chapter. In so far as it comes
into conflict with the law of conspicuous waste, the instinct of
workmanship expresses itself not so much in insistence on substantial
usefulness as in an abiding sense of the odiousness and aesthetic
impossibility of what is obviously futile. Being of the nature of an
instinctive affection, its guidance touches chiefly and immediately the
obvious and apparent violations of its requirements. It is only less
promptly and with less constraining force that it reaches such substantial
violations of its requirements as are appreciated only upon reflection.</p>
<p>So long as all labor continues to be performed exclusively or usually by
slaves, the baseness of all productive effort is too constantly and
deterrently present in the mind of men to allow the instinct of
workmanship seriously to take effect in the direction of industrial
usefulness; but when the quasi-peaceable stage (with slavery and status)
passes into the peaceable stage of industry (with wage labor and cash
payment) the instinct comes more effectively into play. It then begins
aggressively to shape men's views of what is meritorious, and asserts
itself at least as an auxiliary canon of self-complacency. All extraneous
considerations apart, those persons (adult) are but a vanishing minority
today who harbor no inclination to the accomplishment of some end, or who
are not impelled of their own motion to shape some object or fact or
relation for human use. The propensity may in large measure be overborne
by the more immediately constraining incentive to a reputable leisure and
an avoidance of indecorous usefulness, and it may therefore work itself
out in make-believe only; as for instance in "social duties," and in
quasi-artistic or quasi-scholarly accomplishments, in the care and
decoration of the house, in sewing-circle activity or dress reform, in
proficiency at dress, cards, yachting, golf, and various sports. But the
fact that it may under stress of circumstances eventuate in inanities no
more disproves the presence of the instinct than the reality of the
brooding instinct is disproved by inducing a hen to sit on a nestful of
china eggs.</p>
<p>This latter-day uneasy reaching-out for some form of purposeful activity
that shall at the same time not be indecorously productive of either
individual or collective gain marks a difference of attitude between the
modern leisure class and that of the quasi-peaceable stage. At the earlier
stage, as was said above, the all-dominating institution of slavery and
status acted resistlessly to discountenance exertion directed to other
than naively predatory ends. It was still possible to find some habitual
employment for the inclination to action in the way of forcible aggression
or repression directed against hostile groups or against the subject
classes within the group; and this sewed to relieve the pressure and draw
off the energy of the leisure class without a resort to actually useful,
or even ostensibly useful employments. The practice of hunting also sewed
the same purpose in some degree. When the community developed into a
peaceful industrial organization, and when fuller occupation of the land
had reduced the opportunities for the hunt to an inconsiderable residue,
the pressure of energy seeking purposeful employment was left to find an
outlet in some other direction. The ignominy which attaches to useful
effort also entered upon a less acute phase with the disappearance of
compulsory labor; and the instinct of workmanship then came to assert
itself with more persistence and consistency.</p>
<p>The line of least resistance has changed in some measure, and the energy
which formerly found a vent in predatory activity, now in part takes the
direction of some ostensibly useful end. Ostensibly purposeless leisure
has come to be deprecated, especially among that large portion of the
leisure class whose plebeian origin acts to set them at variance with the
tradition of the otium cum dignitate. But that canon of reputability which
discountenances all employment that is of the nature of productive effort
is still at hand, and will permit nothing beyond the most transient vogue
to any employment that is substantially useful or productive. The
consequence is that a change has been wrought in the conspicuous leisure
practiced by the leisure class; not so much in substance as in form. A
reconciliation between the two conflicting requirements is effected by a
resort to make-believe. Many and intricate polite observances and social
duties of a ceremonial nature are developed; many organizations are
founded, with some specious object of amelioration embodied in their
official style and title; there is much coming and going, and a deal of
talk, to the end that the talkers may not have occasion to reflect on what
is the effectual economic value of their traffic. And along with the
make-believe of purposeful employment, and woven inextricably into its
texture, there is commonly, if not invariably, a more or less appreciable
element of purposeful effort directed to some serious end.</p>
<p>In the narrower sphere of vicarious leisure a similar change has gone
forward. Instead of simply passing her time in visible idleness, as in the
best days of the patriarchal regime, the housewife of the advanced
peaceable stage applies herself assiduously to household cares. The
salient features of this development of domestic service have already been
indicated. Throughout the entire evolution of conspicuous expenditure,
whether of goods or of services or human life, runs the obvious
implication that in order to effectually mend the consumer's good fame it
must be an expenditure of superfluities. In order to be reputable it must
be wasteful. No merit would accrue from the consumption of the bare
necessaries of life, except by comparison with the abjectly poor who fall
short even of the subsistence minimum; and no standard of expenditure
could result from such a comparison, except the most prosaic and
unattractive level of decency. A standard of life would still be possible
which should admit of invidious comparison in other respects than that of
opulence; as, for instance, a comparison in various directions in the
manifestation of moral, physical, intellectual, or aesthetic force.
Comparison in all these directions is in vogue today; and the comparison
made in these respects is commonly so inextricably bound up with the
pecuniary comparison as to be scarcely distinguishable from the latter.
This is especially true as regards the current rating of expressions of
intellectual and aesthetic force or proficiency' so that we frequently
interpret as aesthetic or intellectual a difference which in substance is
pecuniary only.</p>
<p>The use of the term "waste" is in one respect an unfortunate one. As used
in the speech of everyday life the word carries an undertone of
deprecation. It is here used for want of a better term that will
adequately describe the same range of motives and of phenomena, and it is
not to be taken in an odious sense, as implying an illegitimate
expenditure of human products or of human life. In the view of economic
theory the expenditure in question is no more and no less legitimate than
any other expenditure. It is here called "waste" because this expenditure
does not serve human life or human well-being on the whole, not because it
is waste or misdirection of effort or expenditure as viewed from the
standpoint of the individual consumer who chooses it. If he chooses it,
that disposes of the question of its relative utility to him, as compared
with other forms of consumption that would not be deprecated on account of
their wastefulness. Whatever form of expenditure the consumer chooses, or
whatever end he seeks in making his choice, has utility to him by virtue
of his preference. As seen from the point of view of the individual
consumer, the question of wastefulness does not arise within the scope of
economic theory proper. The use of the word "waste" as a technical term,
therefore, implies no deprecation of the motives or of the ends sought by
the consumer under this canon of conspicuous waste.</p>
<p>But it is, on other grounds, worth noting that the term "waste" in the
language of everyday life implies deprecation of what is characterized as
wasteful. This common-sense implication is itself an outcropping of the
instinct of workmanship. The popular reprobation of waste goes to say that
in order to be at peace with himself the common man must be able to see in
any and all human effort and human enjoyment an enhancement of life and
well-being on the whole. In order to meet with unqualified approval, any
economic fact must approve itself under the test of impersonal usefulness—usefulness
as seen from the point of view of the generically human. Relative or
competitive advantage of one individual in comparison with another does
not satisfy the economic conscience, and therefore competitive expenditure
has not the approval of this conscience.</p>
<p>In strict accuracy nothing should be included under the head of
conspicuous waste but such expenditure as is incurred on the ground of an
invidious pecuniary comparison. But in order to bring any given item or
element in under this head it is not necessary that it should be
recognized as waste in this sense by the person incurring the expenditure.
It frequently happens that an element of the standard of living which set
out with being primarily wasteful, ends with becoming, in the apprehension
of the consumer, a necessary of life; and it may in this way become as
indispensable as any other item of the consumer's habitual expenditure. As
items which sometimes fall under this head, and are therefore available as
illustrations of the manner in which this principle applies, may be cited
carpets and tapestries, silver table service, waiter's services, silk
hats, starched linen, many articles of jewelry and of dress. The
indispensability of these things after the habit and the convention have
been formed, however, has little to say in the classification of
expenditures as waste or not waste in the technical meaning of the word.
The test to which all expenditure must be brought in an attempt to decide
that point is the question whether it serves directly to enhance human
life on the whole-whether it furthers the life process taken impersonally.
For this is the basis of award of the instinct of workmanship, and that
instinct is the court of final appeal in any question of economic truth or
adequacy. It is a question as to the award rendered by a dispassionate
common sense. The question is, therefore, not whether, under the existing
circumstances of individual habit and social custom, a given expenditure
conduces to the particular consumer's gratification or peace of mind; but
whether, aside from acquired tastes and from the canons of usage and
conventional decency, its result is a net gain in comfort or in the
fullness of life. Customary expenditure must be classed under the head of
waste in so far as the custom on which it rests is traceable to the habit
of making an invidious pecuniary comparison-in so far as it is conceived
that it could not have become customary and prescriptive without the
backing of this principle of pecuniary reputability or relative economic
success. It is obviously not necessary that a given object of expenditure
should be exclusively wasteful in order to come in under the category of
conspicuous waste. An article may be useful and wasteful both, and its
utility to the consumer may be made up of use and waste in the most
varying proportions. Consumable goods, and even productive goods,
generally show the two elements in combination, as constituents of their
utility; although, in a general way, the element of waste tends to
predominate in articles of consumption, while the contrary is true of
articles designed for productive use. Even in articles which appear at
first glance to serve for pure ostentation only, it is always possible to
detect the presence of some, at least ostensible, useful purpose; and on
the other hand, even in special machinery and tools contrived for some
particular industrial process, as well as in the rudest appliances of
human industry, the traces of conspicuous waste, or at least of the habit
of ostentation, usually become evident on a close scrutiny. It would be
hazardous to assert that a useful purpose is ever absent from the utility
of any article or of any service, however obviously its prime purpose and
chief element is conspicuous waste; and it would be only less hazardous to
assert of any primarily useful product that the element of waste is in no
way concerned in its value, immediately or remotely.</p>
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