<SPAN name="ADRIFT_ON_AN_ICE-PAN" id="ADRIFT_ON_AN_ICE-PAN"></SPAN>
<h3>ADRIFT ON AN ICE-PAN</h3>
<br/>
<p>It was Easter Sunday at St. Anthony in the year 1908, but with us in
northern Newfoundland still winter. Everything was covered with snow
and ice. I was walking back after morning service, when a boy came
running over from the hospital with the news that a large team of dogs
had come from sixty miles to the southward, to get a doctor on a very
urgent case. It was that of a young man on whom we had operated about
a fortnight before for an acute bone disease in the thigh. The people
had allowed the wound to close, the poisoned matter had accumulated,
and we thought we should have to<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></SPAN></span> remove the leg. There was obviously,
therefore, no time to be lost. So, having packed up the necessary
instruments, dressings, and drugs, and having fitted out the
dog-sleigh with my best dogs, I started at once, the messengers
following me with their team.</p>
<p>My team was an especially good one. On many a long journey they had
stood by me and pulled me out of difficulties by their sagacity and
endurance. To a lover of his dogs, as every Christian man must be,
each one had become almost as precious as a child to its mother. They
were beautiful beasts: "Brin," the cleverest leader on the coast;
"Doc," a large, gentle beast, the backbone of the team for power;
"Spy," a wiry, powerful black and white dog;<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></SPAN></span> "Moody," a lop-eared
black-and-tan, in his third season, a plodder that never looked behind
him; "Watch," the youngster of the team, long-legged and speedy, with
great liquid eyes and a Gordon-setter coat; "Sue," a large, dark
Eskimo, the image of a great black wolf, with her sharp-pointed and
perpendicular ears, for she "harked back" to her wild ancestry;
"Jerry," a large roan-colored slut, the quickest of all my dogs on her
feet, and so affectionate that her overtures of joy had often sent me
sprawling on my back; "Jack," a jet-black, gentle-natured dog, more
like a retriever, that always ran next the sledge, and never looked
back but everlastingly pulled straight ahead, running always with his
nose to the ground.</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep02" id="imagep02"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep02.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep02.jpg" width-obs="100%" alt="THE SETTLEMENT AT ST. ANTHONY" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">THE SETTLEMENT AT ST. ANTHONY<span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></SPAN></span>It was late in April, when there is always the risk of getting wet
through the ice, so that I was carefully prepared with spare outfit,
which included a change of garments, snow-shoes, rifle, compass, axe,
and oilskin overclothes. The messengers were anxious that their team
should travel back with mine, for they were slow at best and needed a
lead. My dogs, however, being a powerful team, could not be held back,
and though I managed to wait twice for their sleigh, I had reached a
village about twenty miles on the journey before nightfall, and had
fed the dogs, and was gathering a few people for prayers when they
caught me up.</p>
<p>During the night the wind shifted to the northeast, which brought in
fog and rain, softened the snow, and<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></SPAN></span> made travelling very bad,
besides heaving a heavy sea into the bay. Our drive next morning would
be somewhat over forty miles, the first ten miles on an arm of the
sea, on salt-water ice.</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep04" id="imagep04"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep04.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep04.jpg" width-obs="68%" alt="ON A JOURNEY" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">ON A JOURNEY<span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
<p>In order not to be separated too long from my friends, I sent them
ahead two hours before me, appointing a rendezvous in a log tilt that
we have built in the woods as a halfway house. There is no one living
on all that long coast-line, and to provide against accidents—which
have happened more than once—we built this hut to keep dry clothing,
food, and drugs in.</p>
<p>The first rain of the year was falling when I started, and I was
obliged to keep on what we call the "ballicaters," or ice barricades,
much farther<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></SPAN></span> up the bay than I had expected. The sea of the night
before had smashed the ponderous covering of ice right to the
landwash. There were great gaping chasms between the enormous blocks,
which we call pans, and half a mile out it was all clear water.</p>
<p>An island three miles out had preserved a bridge of ice, however, and
by crossing a few cracks I managed to reach it. From the island it was
four miles across to a rocky promontory,—a course that would be
several miles shorter than going round the shore. Here as far as the
eye could reach the ice seemed good, though it was very rough.
Obviously, it had been smashed up by the sea and then packed in again
by the strong wind from the northeast, and I thought it had frozen
together solid.</p>
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></SPAN></span>All went well till I was about a quarter of a mile from the
landing-point. Then the wind suddenly fell, and I noticed that I was
travelling over loose "sish," which was like porridge and probably
many feet deep. By stabbing down, I could drive my whip-handle through
the thin coating of young ice that was floating on it. The sish ice
consists of the tiny fragments where the large pans have been pounding
together on the heaving sea, like the stones of Freya's grinding mill.</p>
<p>So quickly did the wind now come off shore, and so quickly did the
packed "slob," relieved of the wind pressure, "run abroad," that
already I could not see one pan larger than ten feet square; moreover,
the ice was loosening so rapidly that I saw<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></SPAN></span> that retreat was
absolutely impossible. Neither was there any way to get off the little
pan I was surveying from.</p>
<p>There was not a moment to lose. I tore off my oilskins, threw myself
on my hands and knees by the side of the komatik to give a larger base
to hold, and shouted to my team to go ahead for the shore. Before we
had gone twenty yards, the dogs got frightened, hesitated for a
moment, and the komatik instantly sank into the slob. It was necessary
then for the dogs to pull much harder, so that they now began to sink
in also.</p>
<p>Earlier in the season the father of the very boy I was going to
operate on had been drowned in this same way, his dogs tangling their
traces around him in the slob. This flashed<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></SPAN></span> into my mind, and I
managed to loosen my sheath-knife, scramble forward, find the traces
in the water, and cut them, holding on to the leader's trace wound
round my wrist.</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep08" id="imagep08"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep08.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep08.jpg" width-obs="100%" alt="TRAVELLING ON BROKEN ICE" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">TRAVELLING ON BROKEN ICE<span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
<p>Being in the water I could see no piece of ice that would bear
anything up. But there was as it happened a piece of snow, frozen
together like a large snowball, about twenty-five yards away, near
where my leading dog, "Brin," was wallowing in the slob. Upon this he
very shortly climbed, his long trace of ten fathoms almost reaching
there before he went into the water.</p>
<p>This dog has weird black markings on his face, giving him the
appearance of wearing a perpetual grin. After climbing out on the snow
as if it were the most natural position in<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></SPAN></span> the world he deliberately
shook the ice and water from his long coat, and then turned round to
look for me. As he sat perched up there out of the water he seemed to
be grinning with satisfaction. The other dogs were hopelessly bogged.
Indeed, we were like flies in treacle.</p>
<p>Gradually, I hauled myself along the line that was still tied to my
wrist, till without any warning the dog turned round and slipped out
of his harness, and then once more turned his grinning face to where I
was struggling.</p>
<p>It was impossible to make any progress through the sish ice by
swimming, so I lay there and thought all would soon be over, only
wondering if any one would ever know how it happened. There was no<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></SPAN></span>
particular horror attached to it, and in fact I began to feel drowsy,
as if I could easily go to sleep, when suddenly I saw the trace of
another big dog that had himself gone through before he reached the
pan, and though he was close to it was quite unable to force his way
out. Along this I hauled myself, using him as a bow anchor, but much
bothered by the other dogs as I passed them, one of which got on my
shoulder, pushing me farther down into the ice. There was only a yard
or so more when I had passed my living anchor, and soon I lay with my
dogs around me on the little piece of slob ice. I had to help them on
to it, working them through the lane that I had made.</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep12" id="imagep12"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep12.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep12.jpg" width-obs="100%" alt="PART OF DR. GRENFELL'S TEAM" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">PART OF DR. GRENFELL'S TEAM<span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
<p>The piece of ice we were on was so small it was obvious we must soon<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></SPAN></span>
all be drowned, if we remained upon it as it drifted seaward into more
open water. If we were to save our lives, no time was to be lost. When
I stood up, I could see about twenty yards away a larger pan floating
amidst the sish, like a great flat raft, and if we could get on to it
we should postpone at least for a time the death that already seemed
almost inevitable. It was impossible to reach it without a life line,
as I had already learned to my cost, and the next problem was how to
get one there. Marvellous to relate, when I had first fallen through,
after I had cut the dogs adrift without any hope left of saving
myself, I had not let my knife sink, but had fastened it by two half
hitches to the back of one of the dogs. To my great joy there it was
still, and shortly I was<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></SPAN></span> at work cutting all the sealskin traces
still hanging from the dogs' harnesses, and splicing them together
into one long line. These I divided and fastened to the backs of my
two leaders, tying the near ends round my two wrists. I then pointed
out to "Brin" the pan I wanted to reach and tried my best to make them
go ahead, giving them the full length of my lines from two coils. My
long sealskin moccasins, reaching to my thigh, were full of ice and
water. These I took off and tied separately on the dogs' backs. My
coat, hat, gloves, and overalls I had already lost. At first, nothing
would induce the two dogs to move, and though I threw them off the pan
two or three times, they struggled back upon it, which perhaps was
only natural,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></SPAN></span> because as soon as they fell through they could see
nowhere else to make for. To me, however, this seemed to spell "the
end." Fortunately, I had with me a small black spaniel, almost a
featherweight, with large furry paws, called "Jack," who acts as my
mascot and incidentally as my retriever. This at once flashed into my
mind, and I felt I had still one more chance for life. So I spoke to
him and showed him the direction, and then threw a piece of ice toward
the desired goal. Without a moment's hesitation he made a dash for it,
and to my great joy got there safely, the tough scale of sea ice
carrying his weight bravely. At once I shouted to him to "lie down,"
and this, too, he immediately did, looking like a little black fuzz
ball on the white setting.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></SPAN></span> My leaders could now see him seated there
on the new piece of floe, and when once more I threw them off they
understood what I wanted, and fought their way to where they saw the
spaniel, carrying with them the line that gave me the one chance for
my life. The other dogs followed them, and after painful struggling,
all got out again except one. Taking all the run that I could get on
my little pan, I made a dive, slithering with the impetus along the
surface till once more I sank through. After a long fight, however, I
was able to haul myself by the long traces on to this new pan, having
taken care beforehand to tie the harnesses to which I was holding
under the dogs' bellies, so that they could not slip them off. But
alas! the pan I was now<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></SPAN></span> on was not large enough to bear us and was
already beginning to sink, so this process had to be repeated
immediately.</p>
<p>I now realized that, though we had been working toward the shore, we
had been losing ground all the time, for the off-shore wind had
already driven us a hundred yards farther out. But the widening gap
kept full of the pounded ice, through which no man could possibly go.</p>
<p>I had decided I would rather stake my chances on a long swim even than
perish by inches on the floe, as there was no likelihood whatever of
being seen and rescued. But, keenly though I watched, not a streak
even of clear water appeared, the interminable sish rising from below
and filling every gap as it appeared. We were<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></SPAN></span> now resting on a piece
of ice about ten by twelve feet, which, as I found when I came to
examine it, was not ice at all, but simply snow-covered slob frozen
into a mass, and I feared it would very soon break up in the general
turmoil of the heavy sea, which was increasing as the ice drove off
shore before the wind.</p>
<p>At first we drifted in the direction of a rocky point on which a heavy
surf was breaking. Here I thought once again to swim ashore. But
suddenly we struck a rock. A large piece broke off the already small
pan, and what was left swung round in the backwash, and started right
out to sea.</p>
<p>There was nothing for it now but to hope for a rescue. Alas! there was
little possibility of being seen. As I<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></SPAN></span> have already mentioned, no one
lives around this big bay. My only hope was that the other komatik,
knowing I was alone and had failed to keep my tryst, would perhaps
come back to look for me. This, however, as it proved, they did not
do.</p>
<p>The westerly wind was rising all the time, our coldest wind at this
time of the year, coming as it does over the Gulf ice. It was
tantalizing, as I stood with next to nothing on, the wind going
through me and every stitch soaked in ice-water, to see my
well-stocked komatik some fifty yards away. It was still above water,
with food, hot tea in a thermos bottle, dry clothing, matches, wood,
and everything on it for making a fire to attract attention.</p>
<p>It is easy to see a dark object on<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></SPAN></span> the ice in the daytime, for the
gorgeous whiteness shows off the least thing. But the tops of bushes
and large pieces of kelp have often deceived those looking out.
Moreover, within our memory no man has been thus adrift on the bay
ice. The chances were about one in a thousand that I should be seen at
all, and if I were seen, I should probably be mistaken for some piece
of refuse.</p>
<p>To keep from freezing, I cut off my long moccasins down to the feet,
strung out some line, split the legs, and made a kind of jacket, which
protected my back from the wind down as far as the waist. I have this
jacket still, and my friends assure me it would make a good Sunday
garment.</p>
<p>I had not drifted more than half<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></SPAN></span> a mile before I saw my poor komatik
disappear through the ice, which was every minute loosening up into
the small pans that it consisted of, and it seemed like a friend gone
and one more tie with home and safety lost. To the northward, about a
mile distant, lay the mainland along which I had passed so merrily in
the morning,—only, it seemed, a few moments before.</p>
<p>By mid-day I had passed the island to which I had crossed on the ice
bridge. I could see that the bridge was gone now. If I could reach the
island I should only be marooned and destined to die of starvation.
But there was little chance of that, for I was rapidly driving into
the ever widening bay.</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep20" id="imagep20"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep20.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep20.jpg" width-obs="65%" alt="DR. GRENFELL AND JACK" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">DR. GRENFELL AND JACK<br/><span class="fakesc">WITH THE JACKET MADE FROM MOCCASINS</span><span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
<p>It was scarcely safe to move on<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></SPAN></span> my small ice raft, for fear of
breaking it. Yet I saw I must have the skins of some of my dogs,—of
which I had eight on the pan,—if I was to live the night out. There
was now some three to five miles between me and the north side of the
bay. There, immense pans of Arctic ice, surging to and fro on the
heavy ground seas, were thundering into the cliffs like medieval
battering-rams. It was evident that, even if seen, I could hope for no
help from that quarter before night. No boat could live through the
surf.</p>
<p>Unwinding the sealskin traces from my waist, round which I had wound
them to keep the dogs from eating them, I made a slip-knot, passed it
over the first dog's head, tied it round my foot close to his neck,
threw him<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></SPAN></span> on his back, and stabbed him in the heart. Poor beast! I
loved him like a friend,—a beautiful dog,—but we could not all hope
to live. In fact, I had no hope any of us would, at that time, but it
seemed better to die fighting.</p>
<p>In spite of my care the struggling dog bit me rather badly in the leg.
I suppose my numb hands prevented my holding his throat as I could
ordinarily do. Moreover, I must hold the knife in the wound to the
end, as blood on the fur would freeze solid and make the skin useless.
In this way I sacrificed two more large dogs, receiving only one more
bite, though I fully expected that the pan I was on would break up in
the struggle. The other dogs, who were licking their coats and trying
to get dry,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></SPAN></span> apparently took no notice of the fate of their
comrades,—but I was very careful to prevent the dying dogs crying
out, for the noise of fighting would probably have been followed by
the rest attacking the down dog, and that was too close to me to be
pleasant. A short shrift seemed to me better than a long one, and I
envied the dead dogs whose troubles were over so quickly. Indeed, I
came to balance in my mind whether, if once I passed into the open
sea, it would not be better by far to use my faithful knife on myself
than to die by inches. There seemed no hardship in the thought. I
seemed fully to sympathize with the Japanese view of hara-kiri.</p>
<p>Working, however, saved me from philosophizing. By the time I had<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></SPAN></span>
skinned these dogs, and with my knife and some of the harness had
strung the skins together, I was ten miles on my way, and it was
getting dark.</p>
<p>Away to the northward I could see a single light in the little village
where I had slept the night before, where I had received the kindly
hospitality of the simple fishermen in whose comfortable homes I have
spent many a night. I could not help but think of them sitting down to
tea, with no idea that there was any one watching them, for I had told
them not to expect me back for three days.</p>
<p>Meanwhile I had frayed out a small piece of rope into oakum, and mixed
it with fat from the intestines of my dogs. Alas, my match-box, which<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></SPAN></span>
was always chained to me, had leaked, and my matches were in pulp. Had
I been able to make a light, it would have looked so unearthly out
there on the sea that I felt sure they would see me. But that chance
was now cut off. However, I kept the matches, hoping that I might dry
them if I lived through the night. While working at the dogs, about
every five minutes I would stand up and wave my hands toward the land.
I had no flag, and I could not spare my shirt, for, wet as it was, it
was better than nothing in that freezing wind, and, anyhow, it was
already nearly dark.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, the coves in among the cliffs are so placed that only
for a very narrow space can the people in any house see the sea.
Indeed,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></SPAN></span> most of them cannot see it at all, so that I could not in the
least expect any one to see me, even supposing it had been daylight.</p>
<p>Not daring to take any snow from the surface of my pan to break the
wind with, I piled up the carcasses of my dogs. With my skin rug I
could now sit down without getting soaked. During these hours I had
continually taken off all my clothes, wrung them out, swung them one
by one in the wind, and put on first one and then the other inside,
hoping that what heat there was in my body would thus serve to dry
them. In this I had been fairly successful.</p>
<p>My feet gave me most trouble, for they immediately got wet again
because my thin moccasins were easily soaked through on the snow. I<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></SPAN></span>
suddenly thought of the way in which the Lapps who tend our reindeer
manage for dry socks. They carry grass with them, which they ravel up
and pad into their shoes. Into this they put their feet, and then pack
the rest with more grass, tying up the top with a binder. The ropes of
the harness for our dogs are carefully sewed all over with two layers
of flannel in order to make them soft against the dogs' sides. So, as
soon as I could sit down, I started with my trusty knife to rip up the
flannel. Though my fingers were more or less frozen, I was able also
to ravel out the rope, put it into my shoes, and use my wet socks
inside my knickerbockers, where, though damp, they served to break the
wind. Then, tying the narrow strips of flannel<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></SPAN></span> together, I bound up
the top of the moccasins, Lapp-fashion, and carried the bandage on up
over my knee, making a ragged though most excellent puttee.</p>
<p>As to the garments I wore, I had opened recently a box of football
clothes I had not seen for twenty years. I had found my old Oxford
University football running shorts and a pair of Richmond Football
Club red, yellow, and black stockings, exactly as I wore them twenty
years ago. These with a flannel shirt and sweater vest were now all I
had left. Coat, hat, gloves, oilskins, everything else, were gone, and
I stood there in that odd costume, exactly as I stood twenty years ago
on a football field, reminding me of the little girl of a friend, who,
when told she was<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></SPAN></span> dying, asked to be dressed in her Sunday frock to
go to heaven in. My costume, being very light, dried all the quicker,
until afternoon. Then nothing would dry anymore, everything freezing
stiff. It had been an ideal costume to struggle through the slob ice.
I really believe the conventional garments missionaries are supposed
to affect would have been fatal.</p>
<p>My occupation till what seemed like midnight was unravelling rope, and
with this I padded out my knickers inside, and my shirt as well,
though it was a clumsy job, for I could not see what I was doing. Now,
getting my largest dog, Doc, as big as a wolf and weighing ninety-two
pounds, I made him lie down, so that I could cuddle round him. I then<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></SPAN></span>
wrapped the three skins around me, arranging them so that I could lie
on one edge, while the other came just over my shoulders and head.</p>
<p>My own breath collecting inside the newly flayed skin must have had a
soporific effect, for I was soon fast asleep. One hand I had kept warm
against the curled up dog, but the other, being gloveless, had frozen,
and I suddenly awoke, shivering enough, I thought, to break my fragile
pan. What I took at first to be the sun was just rising, but I soon
found it was the moon, and then I knew it was about half-past twelve.
The dog was having an excellent time. He hadn't been cuddled so warm
all winter, and he resented my moving with low growls till he found it
wasn't another dog.</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep30" id="imagep30"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep30.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep30.jpg" width-obs="65%" alt="DOC" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">DOC<span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
<p>The wind was steadily driving me now toward the open sea, and I could
expect, short of a miracle, nothing but death out there. Somehow, one
scarcely felt justified in praying for a miracle. But we have learned
down here to pray for things we want, and, anyhow, just at that moment
the miracle occurred. The wind fell off suddenly, and came with a
light air from the southward, and then dropped stark calm. The ice was
now "all abroad," which I was sorry for, for there was a big safe pan
not twenty yards away from me. If I could have got on that, I might
have killed my other dogs when the time came, and with their coats I
could hope to hold out for two or three days more, and with the food
and drink their bodies would offer<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></SPAN></span> me need not at least die of hunger
or thirst. To tell the truth, they were so big and strong I was half
afraid to tackle them with only a sheath-knife on my small and
unstable raft.</p>
<p>But it was now freezing hard. I knew the calm water between us would
form into cakes, and I had to recognize that the chance of getting
near enough to escape on to it was gone. If, on the other hand, the
whole bay froze solid again I had yet another possible chance. For my
pan would hold together longer and I should be opposite another
village, called Goose Cove, at daylight, and might possibly be seen
from there. I knew that the komatiks there would be starting at
daybreak over the hills for a parade of Orangemen about twenty miles
away. Possibly,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></SPAN></span> therefore, I might be seen as they climbed the hills.
So I lay down, and went to sleep again.</p>
<p>It seems impossible to say how long one sleeps, but I woke with a
sudden thought in my mind that I must have a flag; but again I had no
pole and no flag. However, I set to work in the dark to disarticulate
the legs of my dead dogs, which were now frozen stiff, and which were
all that offered a chance of carrying anything like a distress signal.
Cold as it was, I determined to sacrifice my shirt for that purpose
with the first streak of daylight.</p>
<p>It took a long time in the dark to get the legs off, and when I had
patiently marled them together with old harness rope and the remains
of the skin traces, it was the heaviest<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></SPAN></span> and crookedest flag-pole it
has ever been my lot to see. I had had no food from six o'clock the
morning before, when I had eaten porridge and bread and butter. I had,
however, a rubber band which I had been wearing instead of one of my
garters, and I chewed that for twenty-four hours. It saved me from
thirst and hunger, oddly enough. It was not possible to get a drink
from my pan, for it was far too salty. But anyhow that thought did not
distress me much, for as from time to time I heard the cracking and
grinding of the newly formed slob, it seemed that my devoted boat must
inevitably soon go to pieces.</p>
<p>At last the sun rose, and the time came for the sacrifice of my shirt.
So I stripped, and, much to my surprise,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></SPAN></span> found it not half so cold as
I had anticipated. I now re-formed my dog-skins with the raw side out,
so that they made a kind of coat quite rivalling Joseph's. But, with
the rising of the sun, the frost came out of the joints of my dogs'
legs, and the friction caused by waving it made my flag-pole almost
tie itself in knots. Still, I could raise it three or four feet above
my head, which was very important.</p>
<p>Now, however, I found that instead of being as far out at sea as I had
reckoned, I had drifted back in a northwesterly direction, and was off
some cliffs known as Ireland Head. Near these there was a little
village looking seaward, whence I should certainly have been seen.
But, as I had myself, earlier in the winter, been<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></SPAN></span> night-bound at this
place, I had learnt there was not a single soul living there at all
this winter. The people had all, as usual, migrated to the winter
houses up the bay, where they get together for schooling and social
purposes.</p>
<p>I soon found it was impossible to keep waving so heavy a flag all the
time, and yet I dared not sit down, for that might be the exact moment
some one would be in a position to see me from the hills. The only
thing in my mind was how long I could stand up and how long go on
waving that pole at the cliffs. Once or twice I thought I saw men
against their snowy faces, which, I judged, were about five and a half
miles from me, but they were only trees. Once, also, I thought I saw a
boat approaching.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></SPAN></span> A glittering object kept appearing and disappearing
on the water, but it was only a small piece of ice sparkling in the
sun as it rose on the surface. I think that the rocking of my cradle
up and down on the waves had helped me to sleep, for I felt as well as
ever I did in my life; and with the hope of a long sunny day, I felt
sure I was good to last another twenty-four hours,—if my boat would
hold out and not rot under the sun's rays.</p>
<p>Each time I sat down to rest, my big dog "Doc" came and kissed my face
and then walked to the edge of the ice-pan, returning again to where I
was huddled up, as if to say, "Why don't you come along? Surely it is
time to start." The other dogs also were now moving about very
restlessly, occasionally trying to satisfy<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></SPAN></span> their hunger by gnawing at
the dead bodies of their brothers.</p>
<p>I determined, at mid-day, to kill a big Eskimo dog and drink his
blood, as I had read only a few days before in "Farthest North" of Dr.
Nansen's doing,—that is, if I survived the battle with him. I could
not help feeling, even then, my ludicrous position, and I thought, if
ever I got ashore again, I should have to laugh at myself standing
hour after hour waving my shirt at those lofty cliffs, which seemed to
assume a kind of sardonic grin, so that I could almost imagine they
were laughing at me. At times I could not help thinking of the good
breakfast that my colleagues were enjoying at the back of those same
cliffs, and of the snug fire and the comfortable room which we call
our study.</p>
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></SPAN></span>I can honestly say that from first to last not a single sensation of
fear entered my mind, even when I was struggling in the slob ice.
Somehow it did not seem unnatural; I had been through the ice half a
dozen times before. For the most part I felt very sleepy, and the idea
was then very strong in my mind that I should soon reach the solution
of the mysteries that I had been preaching about for so many years.</p>
<p>Only the previous night (Easter Sunday) at prayers in the cottage, we
had been discussing the fact that the soul was entirely separate from
the body, that Christ's idea of the body as the temple in which the
soul dwells is so amply borne out by modern science. We had talked of
thoughts from that admirable book,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></SPAN></span> "Brain and Personality," by Dr.
Thompson of New York, and also of the same subject in the light of a
recent operation performed at the Johns Hopkins Hospital by Dr. Harvey
Cushing. The doctor had removed from a man's brain two large cystic
tumors without giving the man an anæsthetic, and the patient had kept
up a running conversation with him all the while the doctor's fingers
were working in his brain. It had seemed such a striking proof that
ourselves and our bodies are two absolutely different things.</p>
<p>Our eternal life has always been with me a matter of faith. It seems
to me one of those problems that must always be a mystery to
knowledge. But my own faith in this matter had been so untroubled that
it<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></SPAN></span> seemed now almost natural to be leaving through this portal of
death from an ice pan. In many ways, also, I could see how a death of
this kind might be of value to the particular work that I am engaged
in. Except for my friends, I had nothing I could think of to regret
whatever. Certainly, I should like to have told them the story. But
then one does not carry folios of paper in running shorts which have
no pockets, and all my writing gear had gone by the board with the
komatik.</p>
<p>I could still see a testimonial to myself some distance away in my
khaki overalls, which I had left on another pan in the struggle of the
night before. They seemed a kind of company, and would possibly be
picked up and suggest the true story.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></SPAN></span> Running through my head all the
time, quite unbidden, were the words of the old hymn:—</p>
<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"My God, my Father, while I stray<br/></span>
<span class="i0">Far from my home on life's dark way,<br/></span>
<span class="i0">Oh, teach me from my heart to say,<br/></span>
<span class="i4">Thy will be done!"<br/></span></div>
</div>
<p class="noin">It is a hymn we hardly ever sing out here, and it was an unconscious
memory of my boyhood days.</p>
<p>It was a perfect morning,—a cobalt sky, an ultramarine sea, a golden
sun, an almost wasteful extravagance of crimson over hills of purest
snow, which caught a reflected glow from rock and crag. Between me and
the hills lay miles of rough ice and long veins of thin black slob
that had formed during the night. For the foreground there was my
poor, gruesome pan, bobbing up and down on<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></SPAN></span> the edge of the open sea,
stained with blood, and littered with carcasses and débris. It was
smaller than last night, and I noticed also that the new ice from the
water melted under the dogs' bodies had been formed at the expense of
its thickness. Five dogs, myself in colored football costume, and a
bloody dogskin cloak, with a gay flannel shirt on a pole of frozen
dogs' legs, completed the picture. The sun was almost hot by now, and
I was conscious of a surplus of heat in my skin coat. I began to look
longingly at one of my remaining dogs, for an appetite will rise even
on an ice-pan, and that made me think of fire. So once again I
inspected my matches. Alas! the heads were in paste, all but three or
four blue-top wax ones.</p>
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></SPAN></span>These I now laid out to dry, while I searched about on my snow-pan to
see if I could get a piece of transparent ice to make a burning-glass.
For I was pretty sure that with all the unravelled tow I had stuffed
into my leggings, and with the fat of my dogs, I could make smoke
enough to be seen if only I could get a light. I had found a piece
which I thought would do, and had gone back to wave my flag, which I
did every two minutes, when I suddenly thought I saw again the glitter
of an oar. It did not seem possible, however, for it must be
remembered it was not water which lay between me and the land, but
slob ice, which a mile or two inside me was very heavy. Even if people
had seen me, I did not think they could get through, though I knew<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></SPAN></span>
that the whole shore would then be trying. Moreover, there was no
smoke rising on the land to give me hope that I had been seen. There
had been no gun-flashes in the night, and I felt sure that, had any
one seen me, there would have been a bonfire on every hill to
encourage me to keep going.</p>
<p>So I gave it up, and went on with my work. But the next time I went
back to my flag, the glitter seemed very distinct, and though it kept
disappearing as it rose and fell on the surface, I kept my eyes
strained upon it, for my dark spectacles had been lost, and I was
partly snowblind.</p>
<p>I waved my flag as high as I could raise it, broadside on. At last,
beside the glint of the white oar, I made out the black streak of the
hull. I knew<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></SPAN></span> that, if the pan held on for another hour, I should be
all right.</p>
<p>With that strange perversity of the human intellect, the first thing I
thought of was what trophies I could carry with my luggage from the
pan, and I pictured the dog-bone flagstaff adorning my study. (The
dogs actually ate it afterwards.) I thought of preserving my ragged
puttees with our collection of curiosities. I lost no time now at the
burning-glass. My whole mind was devoted to making sure I should be
seen, and I moved about as much as I dared on the raft, waving my
sorry token aloft.</p>
<p>At last there could be no doubt about it: the boat was getting nearer
and nearer. I could see that my rescuers were frantically waving,
and,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></SPAN></span> when they came within shouting distance, I heard some one cry
out, "Don't get excited. Keep on the pan where you are." They were
infinitely more excited than I. Already to me it seemed just as
natural now to be saved as, half an hour before, it had seemed
inevitable I should be lost, and had my rescuers only known, as I did,
the sensation of a bath in that ice when you could not dry yourself
afterwards, they need not have expected me to follow the example of
the apostle Peter and throw myself into the water.</p>
<p>As the man in the bow leaped from the boat on to my ice raft and
grasped both my hands in his, not a word was uttered. I could see in
his face the strong emotions he was trying hard to force back, though
in<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></SPAN></span> spite of himself tears trickled down his cheeks. It was the same
with each of the others of my rescuers, nor was there any reason to be
ashamed of them. These were not the emblems of weak sentimentality,
but the evidences of the realization of the deepest and noblest
emotion of which the human heart is capable, the vision that God has
use for us his creatures, the sense of that supreme joy of the
Christ,—the joy of unselfish service. After the hand-shake and
swallowing a cup of warm tea that had been thoughtfully packed in a
bottle, we hoisted in my remaining dogs and started for home. To drive
the boat home there were not only five Newfoundland fishermen at the
oars, but five men with Newfoundland muscles in their backs, and five
as brave hearts<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></SPAN></span> as ever beat in the bodies of human beings.</p>
<p>So, slowly but steadily, we forged through to the shore, now jumping
out on to larger pans and forcing them apart with the oars, now
hauling the boat out and dragging her over, when the jam of ice packed
tightly in by the rising wind was impossible to get through otherwise.</p>
<p>My first question, when at last we found our tongues, was, "How ever
did you happen to be out in the boat in this ice?" To my astonishment
they told me that the previous night four men had been away on a long
headland cutting out some dead harp seals that they had killed in the
fall and left to freeze up in a rough wooden store they had built
there, and that as they were leaving for home, my pan<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></SPAN></span> of ice had
drifted out clear of Hare Island, and one of them, with his keen
fisherman's eyes, had seen something unusual. They at once returned to
their village, saying there was something alive drifting out to sea on
the floe ice. But their report had been discredited, for the people
thought that it could be only the top of some tree.</p>
<p>All the time I had been driving along I knew that there was one man on
that coast who had a good spy-glass. He tells me he instantly got up
in the midst of his supper, on hearing the news, and hurried over the
cliffs to the lookout, carrying his trusty spy-glass with him.
Immediately, dark as it was, he saw that without any doubt there was a
man out on the ice. Indeed, he saw me<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></SPAN></span> wave my hands every now and
again towards the shore. By a very easy process of reasoning on so
uninhabited a shore, he at once knew who it was, though some of the
men argued that it must be some one else. Little had I thought, as
night was closing in, that away on that snowy hilltop lay a man with a
telescope patiently searching those miles of ice for <i>me</i>. Hastily
they rushed back to the village and at once went down to try to launch
a boat, but that proved to be impossible. Miles of ice lay between
them and me, the heavy sea was hurling great blocks on the landwash,
and night was already falling, the wind blowing hard on shore.</p>
<p>The whole village was aroused, and messengers were despatched at once
along the coast, and lookouts<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></SPAN></span> told off to all the favorable points,
so that while I considered myself a laughing-stock, bowing with my
flag to those unresponsive cliffs, there were really many eyes
watching me. One man told me that with his glass he distinctly saw me
waving the shirt flag. There was little slumber that night in the
villages, and even the men told me there were few dry eyes, as they
thought of the impossibility of saving me from perishing. We are not
given to weeping overmuch on this shore, but there are tears that do a
man honor.</p>
<p>Before daybreak this fine volunteer crew had been gotten together. The
boat, with such a force behind it of will power, would, I believe,
have gone through anything. And, after seeing the heavy breakers<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></SPAN></span>
through which we were guided, loaded with their heavy ice
battering-rams, when at last we ran through the harbor-mouth with the
boat on our return, I knew well what wives and children had been
thinking of when they saw their loved ones put out. Only two years ago
I remember a fisherman's wife watching her husband and three sons take
out a boat to bring in a stranger that was showing flags for a pilot.
But the boat and its occupants have not yet come back.</p>
<p>Every soul in the village was on the beach as we neared the shore.
Every soul was waiting to shake hands when I landed. Even with the
grip that one after another gave me, some no longer trying to keep
back the tears, I did not find out my hands<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></SPAN></span> were frost-burnt,—a fact
I have not been slow to appreciate since, however. I must have been a
weird sight as I stepped ashore, tied up in rags, stuffed out with
oakum, wrapped in the bloody skins of dogs, with no hat, coat, or
gloves besides, and only a pair of short knickers. It must have seemed
to some as if it were the old man of the sea coming ashore.</p>
<p>But no time was wasted before a pot of tea was exactly where I wanted
it to be, and some hot stew was locating itself where I had intended
an hour before the blood of one of my remaining dogs should have gone.</p>
<p>Rigged out in the warm garments that fishermen wear, I started with a
large team as hard as I could race for the hospital, for I had learnt
that the news had gone over that I was<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></SPAN></span> lost. It was soon painfully
impressed upon me that I could not much enjoy the ride, for I had to
be hauled like a log up the hills, my feet being frost-burnt so that I
could not walk. Had I guessed this before going into the house, I
might have avoided much trouble.</p>
<p>It is time to bring this egotistic narrative to an end. "Jack" lies
curled up by my feet while I write this short account. "Brin" is once
again leading and lording it over his fellows. "Doc" and the other
survivors are not forgotten, now that we have again returned to the
less romantic episodes of a mission hospital life. There stands in our
hallway a bronze tablet to the memory of three noble dogs, Moody,
Watch, and Spy, whose lives were given for mine on the ice.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></SPAN></span> In my
home in England my brother has placed a duplicate tablet, and has
added these words, "Not one of them is forgotten before your Father
which is in heaven." And this I most fully believe to be true. The boy
whose life I was intent on saving was brought to the hospital a day or
two later in a boat, the ice having cleared off the coast not to
return for that season. He was operated on successfully, and is even
now on the high road to recovery. We all love life. I was glad to be
back once more with possibly a new lease of it before me. I had
learned on the pan many things, but chiefly that the one cause for
regret, when we look back on a life which we think is closed forever,
will be the fact that we have wasted its opportunities. As I went to
sleep that<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></SPAN></span> first night there still rang in my ears the same verse of
the old hymn which had been my companion on the ice, "Thy will, not
mine, O Lord."</p>
<div class="fig">><SPAN name="imagep54" id="imagep54"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/imagep54.jpg"> <ANTIMG border="0" src="images/imagep54.jpg" width-obs="65%" alt="MEMORIAL TABLET AT ST. ANTHONY'S HOSPITAL, NEWFOUNDLAND" /></SPAN><br/> <p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">MEMORIAL TABLET AT ST. ANTHONY'S HOSPITAL, NEWFOUNDLAND<span class="totoi"><SPAN href="#toi">ToList</SPAN></span></p>
</div>
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