<SPAN name="st_john"></SPAN>
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<h2>ON THE UPPER ST. JOHN'S.</h2>
<p>The city of Sanford is a beautiful and interesting place, I
hope, to those who live in it. To the Florida tourist it is
important as lying at the head of steamboat navigation on the St.
John's River, which here expands into a lake—Lake
Monroe—some five miles in width, with Sanford on one side,
and Enterprise on the other; or, as a waggish traveler once
expressed it, with Enterprise on the north, and Sanford and
enterprise on the south.</p>
<p>Walking naturalists and lovers of things natural have their own
point of view, individual, unconventional, whimsical, if you
please,—very different, at all events, from that of
clearer-witted and more serious-minded men; and the inhabitants of
Sanford will doubtless take it as a compliment, and be amused
rather than annoyed, when I confess that I found their city a
discouragement, a widespread desolation of houses and shops. If
there is a pleasant country road leading out of it in any
direction, I was unlucky enough to miss it. My melancholy condition
was hit off before my eyes in a parable, as it were, by a crowd of
young fellows, black and white, whom I found one afternoon in a
sand-lot just outside the city, engaged in what was intended for a
game of baseball. They were doing their best,—certainly they
made noise enough; but circumstances were against them. When the
ball came to the ground, from no matter what height or with what
impetus, it fell dead in the sand; if it had been made of solid
rubber, it could not have rebounded. "Base-running" was little
better than base-walking. "Sliding" was safe, but, by the same
token, impossible. Worse yet, at every "foul strike" or "wild
throw" the ball was lost, and the barefooted fielders had to pick
their way painfully about in the outlying saw-palmetto scrub till
they found it. I had never seen our "national game" played under
conditions so untoward. None but true patriots would have the heart
to try it, I thought, and I meditated writing to Washington, where
the quadrennial purification of the civil service was just then in
progress,—under a new broom,—to secure, if possible, a
few bits of recognition ("plums" is the technical term, I believe)
for men so deserving. The first baseman certainly, who had oftenest
to wade into the scrub, should have received a consulate, at the
very least. Yet they were a merry crew, those national gamesters.
Their patriotism was of the noblest type,—the unconscious.
They had no thought of being heroes, nor dreamed of bounties or
pensions. They quarreled with the umpire, of course, but not with
Fate; and I hope I profited by their example. My errand in Sanford
was to see something of the river in its narrower and better part;
and having done that, I did not regret what otherwise might have
seemed a profitless week.</p>
<p>First, however, I walked about the city. Here, as already at St.
Augustine, and afterward at Tallahassee, I found the mocking-birds
in free song. They are birds of the town. And the same is true of
the loggerhead shrikes, a pair of which had built a nest in a small
water-oak at the edge of the sidewalk, on a street corner, just
beyond the reach of passers-by. In the roadside trees —all
freshly planted, like the city—were myrtle warblers, prairie
warblers, and blue yellowbacks, the two latter in song. Once, after
a shower, I watched a myrtle bird bathing on a branch among the wet
leaves. The street gutters were running with sulphur water, but he
had waited for rain. I commended his taste, being myself one of
those to whom water and brimstone is a combination as malodorous as
it seems unscriptural. Noisy boat-tailed grackles, or "jackdaws,"
were plentiful about the lakeside, monstrously long in the tail,
and almost as large as the fish crows, which were often there with
them. Over the broad lake swept purple martins and white-breasted
swallows, and nearer the shore fed peacefully a few pied-billed
grebes, or dabchicks, birds that I had seen only two or three times
before, and at which I looked more than once before I made out what
they were. They had every appearance of passing a winter of
content. At the tops of three or four stakes, which stood above the
water at wide intervals,—and at long distances from the
shore,—sat commonly as many cormorants, here, as everywhere,
with plenty of idle time upon their hands. On the other side of the
city were orange groves, large, well kept, thrifty looking; the
fruit still on the trees (March 20, or thereabouts), or lying in
heaps underneath, ready for the boxes. One man's house, I remember,
was surrounded by a fence overrun with Cherokee rosebushes, a full
quarter of a mile of white blossoms.</p>
<p>My best botanical stroll was along one of the railroads (Sanford
is a "railway centre," so called), through a dreary sand waste.
Here I picked a goodly number of novelties, including what looked
like a beautiful pink chicory, only the plant itself was much
prettier (<i>Lygodesmia</i>); a very curious sensitive-leaved plant
(<i>Schrankia</i>), densely beset throughout with curved prickles,
and bearing globes of tiny pink-purple flowers; a calopogon, quite
as pretty as our Northern <i>pulchellus</i>; a clematis
(<i>Baldwinii</i>), which looked more like a bluebell than a
clematis till I commenced pulling it to pieces; and a great
profusion of one of the smaller papaws, or custard-apples, a low
shrub, just then full of large, odd-shaped, creamy-white,
heavy-scented blossoms. I was carrying a sprig of it in my hand
when I met a negro. "What is this?" I asked. "I dunno, sir." "Isn't
it papaw?" "No, sir, that ain't papaw;" and then, as if he had just
remembered something, he added, "That's dog banana."</p>
<p>Oftener than anywhere else I resorted to the shore of the
lake,—to the one small part of it, that is to say, which was
at the same time easily reached and comparatively unfrequented.
There—going one day farther than usual—I found myself
in the borderland of a cypress swamp. On one side was the lake, but
between me and it were cypress-trees; and on the other side was the
swamp itself, a dense wood growing in stagnant black water covered
here and there with duckweed or some similar growth: a frightful
place it seemed, the very abode of snakes and everything evil.
Stories of slaves hiding in cypress swamps came into my mind. It
must have been cruel treatment that drove them to it! Buzzards flew
about my head, and looked at me. "He has come here to die," I
imagined them saying among themselves. "No one comes here for
anything else. Wait a little, and we will pick his bones." They
perched near by, and, not to lose time, employed the interval in
drying their wings, for the night had been showery. Once in a while
one of them shifted his perch with an ominous rustle. They were
waiting for me, and were becoming impatient. "He is long about it,"
one said to another; and I did not wonder. The place seemed one
from which none who entered it could ever go out; and there was no
going farther in without plunging into that horrible mire. I stood
still, and looked and listened. Some strange noise, "bird or
devil," came from the depths of the wood. A flock of grackles
settled in a tall cypress, and for a time made the place loud. How
still it was after they were gone! I could hardly withdraw my gaze
from the green water full of slimy black roots and branches, any
one of which might suddenly lift its head and open its deadly white
mouth! Once a fish-hawk fell to screaming farther down the lake. I
had seen him the day before, standing on the rim of his huge nest
in the top of a tree, and uttering the same cries. All about me
gigantic cypresses, every one swollen enormously at the base, rose
straight and branchless into the air. Dead trees, one might have
said,—light-colored, apparently with no bark to cover them;
but if I glanced up, I saw that each bore at the top a scanty head
of branches just now putting forth fresh green leaves, while long
funereal streamers of dark Spanish moss hung thickly from every
bough.</p>
<p>I am not sure how long I could have stayed in such a spot, if I
had not been able to look now and then through the branches of the
under-woods out upon the sunny lake. Swallows innumerable were
playing over the water, many of them soaring so high as to be all
but invisible. Wise and happy birds, lovers of sunlight and air.
<i>They</i> would never be found in a cypress swamp. Along the
shore, in a weedy shallow, the peaceful dabchicks were feeding. Far
off on a post toward the middle of the lake stood a cormorant. But
I could not keep my eyes long at once in that direction. The dismal
swamp had me under its spell, and meanwhile the patient buzzards
looked at me. "It is almost time," they said; "the fever will do
its work,"—and I began to believe it. It was too bad to come
away; the stupid town offered no attraction; but it seemed perilous
to remain. Perhaps I <i>could</i> not come away. I would try it and
see. It was amazing that I could; and no sooner was I out in the
sunshine than I wished I had stayed where I was; for having once
left the place, I was never likely to find it again. The way was
plain enough, to be sure, and my feet would no doubt serve me. But
the feet cannot do the mind's part, and it is a sad fact, one of
the saddest in life, that sensations cannot be repeated.</p>
<p>With the fascination of the swamp still upon me, I heard
somewhere in the distance a musical voice, and soon came in sight
of a garden where a middle-aged negro was hoeing, —hoeing and
singing: a wild, minor, endless kind of tune; a hymn, as seemed
likely from a word caught here and there; a true piece of natural
melody, as artless as any bird's. I walked slowly to get more of
it, and the happy-sad singer minded me not, but kept on with his
hoe and his song. Potatoes or corn, whatever his crop may have
been,—I did not notice, or, if I did, I have
forgotten,—it should have prospered under his hand.</p>
<p>Farther along, in the highway,—a sandy track, with wastes
of scrub on either side,— boy of eight or nine, armed with a
double-barreled gun, was lingering about a patch of dwarf oaks and
palmettos. "Have n't got that rabbit yet, eh?" said I. (I had
passed him there on my way out, and he had told me what he was
after.)</p>
<p>"No, sir," he answered.</p>
<p>"I don't believe there's any rabbit there."</p>
<p>"Yes, there is, sir; I saw one a little while ago, but he got
away before I could get pretty near."</p>
<p>"Good!" I thought. "Here is a grammarian. Not one boy in ten in
this country but would have said 'I seen.'" A scholar like this was
worth talking with. "Are there many rabbits here?" I asked.</p>
<p>"Yes, sir, there's a good deal."</p>
<p>And so, by easy mental stages, I was clear of the swamp and back
in the town, —saved from the horrible, and delivered to the
commonplace and the dreary.</p>
<p>My best days in Sanford were two that I spent on the river above
the lake. A youthful boatman, expert alike with the oar and the
gun, served me faithfully and well, impossible as it was for him to
enter fully into the spirit of a man who wanted to look at birds,
but not to kill them. I think he had never before seen a customer
of that breed. First he rowed me up the "creek," under promise to
show me alligators, moccasins, and no lack of birds, including the
especially desired purple gallinule. The snakes were somehow
missing (a loss not irreparable), and so were the purple
gallinules; for them, the boy thought, it was still rather early in
the season, although he had killed one a few days before, and for
proof had brought me a wing. But as we were skirting along the
shore I suddenly called "Hist!" An alligator lay on the bank just
before us. The boy turned his head, and instantly was all
excitement. It was a big fellow, he said,—one of three big
ones that inhabited the creek. He would get him this time. "Are you
sure?" I asked. "Oh yes, I'll blow the top of his head off." He was
loaded for gallinules, and I, being no sportsman, and never having
seen an alligator before, was some shades less confident. But it
was his game, and I left him to his way. He pulled the boat
noiselessly against the bank in the shelter of tall reeds, put down
the oars, with which he could almost have touched the alligator,
and took up his gun. At that moment the creature got wind of us,
and slipped incontinently into the water, not a little to my
relief. One live alligator is worth a dozen dead ones, to my
thinking. He showed his back above the surface of the stream for a
moment shortly afterward, and then disappeared for good.</p>
<p>Ornithologically, the creek was a disappointment. We pushed into
one bay after another, among the dense "bonnets,"— huge
leaves of the common yellow pond lily, —but found nothing
that I had not seen before. Here and there a Florida gallinule put
up its head among the leaves, or took flight as we pressed too
closely upon it; but I saw them to no advantage, and with a single
exception they were dumb. One bird, as it dashed into the rushes,
uttered two or three cries that sounded familiar. The Florida
gallinule is in general pretty silent, I think; but he has a noisy
season; then he is indeed noisy enough. A swamp containing a single
pair might be supposed to be populous with barn-yard fowls, the
fellow keeps up such a clatter: now loud and terror-stricken, "like
a hen whose head is just going to be cut off," as a friend once
expressed it; then soft and full of content, as if the aforesaid
hen had laid an egg ten minutes before, and were still felicitating
herself upon the achievement. It was vexatious that here, in the
very home of Florida gallinules, I should see and hear less of them
than I had more than once done in Massachusetts, where they are
esteemed a pretty choice rarity, and where, in spite of what I
suppose must be called exceptional good luck, my acquaintance with
them had been limited to perhaps half a dozen birds. But in affairs
of this kind a direct chase is seldom the best rewarded. At one
point the boatman pulled up to a thicket of small willows, bidding
me be prepared to see birds in enormous numbers; but we found only
a small company of night herons—evidently breeding
there—and a green heron. The latter my boy shot before I knew
what he was doing. He took my reproof in good part, protesting that
he had had only a glimpse of the bird, and had taken it for a
possible gallinule. In the course of the trip we saw, besides the
species already named, great blue and little blue herons,
pied-billed grebes, coots, cormorants, a flock of small sandpipers
(on the wing), buzzards, vultures, fish-hawks, and innumerable
red-winged blackbirds.</p>
<p>Three days afterward we went up the river. At the upper end of
the lake were many white-billed coots (<i>Fulica americana</i>); so
many that we did our best to count them as they rose, flock after
flock, dragging their feet over the water behind them with a
multitudinous splashing noise. There were a thousand, at least.
They had an air of being not so very shy, but they were nobody's
fools. "See there!" my boy would exclaim, as a hundred or two of
them dashed past the boat; "see how they keep just out of
range!"</p>
<p>We were hardly on the river itself before he fell into a state
of something like frenzy at the sight of an otter swimming before
us, showing its head, and then diving. He made after it in hot
haste, and fired I know not how many times, but all for nothing. He
had killed several before now, he said, but had never been obliged
to chase one in this fashion. Perhaps there was a Jonah in the
ship; for though I sympathized with the boy, I sympathized also,
and still more warmly, with the otter. It acted as if life were
dear to it, and for aught I knew it had as good a right to live as
either the boy or I. No such qualms disturbed me a few minutes
later, when, as the boat was grazing the reeds, I espied just ahead
a snake lying in wait among them. I gave the alarm, and the boy
looked round. "Yes," he said, "a big one, a moccasin,—a
cotton-mouth; but I'll fix him." He pulled a stroke or two nearer,
then lifted his oar and brought it down splash; but the reeds broke
the blow, and the moccasin slipped into the water, apparently
unharmed. That was a case for powder and shot. Florida people have
a poor opinion of a man who meets a venomous snake, no matter
where, without doing his best to kill it. How strong the feeling is
my boatman gave me proof within ten minutes after his failure with
the cotton-mouth. He had pulled out into the middle of the river,
when I noticed a beautiful snake, short and rather stout, lying
coiled on the water. Whether it was an optical illusion I cannot
say, but it seemed to me that the creature lay entirely above the
surface,—as if it had been an inflated skin rather than a
live snake. We passed close by it, but it made no offer to move,
only darting out its tongue as the boat slipped past. I spoke to
the boy, who at once ceased rowing.</p>
<p>"I think I must go back and kill that fellow," he said.</p>
<p>"Why so?" I asked, with surprise, for I had looked upon it
simply as a curiosity.</p>
<p>"Oh, I don't like to see it live. It's the poisonousest snake
there is."</p>
<p>As he spoke he turned the boat: but the snake saved him further
trouble, for just then it uncoiled and swam directly toward us, as
if it meant to come aboard. "Oh, you're coming this way, are you?"
said the boy sarcastically. "Well, come on!" The snake came on, and
when it got well within range he took up his fishing-rod (with
hooks at the end for drawing game out of the reeds and bonnets),
and the next moment the snake lay dead upon the water. He slipped
the end of the pole under it and slung it ashore. "There! how do
you like that?" said he, and he headed the boat upstream again. It
was a "copper-bellied moccasin," he declared, whatever that may be,
and was worse than a rattlesnake.</p>
<p>On the river, as in the creek, we were continually exploring
bays and inlets, each with its promising patch of bonnets. Nearly
every such place contained at least one Florida gallinule; but
where were the "purples," about which we kept talking,—the
"royal purples," concerning whose beauty my boy was so
eloquent?</p>
<p>"They are not common yet," he would say. "By and by they will be
as thick as Floridas are now."</p>
<p>"But don't they stay here all winter?"</p>
<p>"No, sir; not the purples."</p>
<p>"Are you certain about that?"</p>
<p>"Oh yes, sir. I have hunted this river too much. They couldn't
be here in the winter without my knowing it."</p>
<p>I wondered whether he could be right, or partly right,
notwithstanding the book statements to the contrary. I notice that
Mr. Chapman, writing of his experiences with this bird at
Gainesville, says, "None were seen until May 25, when, in a part of
the lake before unvisited,—a mass of floating islands and
'bonnets,'—I found them not uncommon." The boy's assertions
may be worth recording, at any rate.</p>
<p>In one place he fired suddenly, and as he put down the gun he
exclaimed, "There! I'll bet I've shot a bird you never saw before.
It had a bill as long as that," with one finger laid crosswise upon
another. He hauled the prize into the boat, and sure enough, it was
a novelty,—a king rail, new to both of us. We had gone a
little farther, and were passing a prairie, on which were pools of
water where the boy said he had often seen large flocks of white
ibises feeding (there were none there now, alas, though we crept up
with all cautiousness to peep over the bank), when all at once I
descried some sharp-winged, strange-looking bird over our heads. It
showed sidewise at the moment, but an instant later it turned, and
I saw its long forked tail, and almost in the same breath its white
head. A fork-tailed kite! and purple gallinules were for the time
forgotten. It was performing the most graceful evolutions, swooping
half-way to the earth from a great height, and then sweeping upward
again. Another minute, and I saw a second bird, farther away. I
watched the nearer one till it faded from sight, soaring and
swooping by turns,—its long, scissors-shaped tail all the
while fully spread,—but never coming down, as its habit is
said to be, to skim over the surface of the water. There is nothing
more beautiful on wings, I believe: a large hawk, with a swallow's
grace of form, color, and motion. I saw it once more (four birds)
over the St. Mark's River, and counted the sight one of the chief
rewards of my Southern winter.</p>
<p>At noon we rested and ate our luncheon in the shade of three or
four tall palmetto-trees standing by themselves on a broad prairie,
a place brightened by beds of blue iris and stretches of golden
senecio,—homelike as well as pretty, both of them. Then we
set out again. The day was intensely hot (March 24), and my oarsman
was more than half sick with a sudden cold. I begged him to take
things easily, but he soon experienced an almost miraculous renewal
of his forces. In one of the first of our after-dinner bonnet
patches, he seized his gun, fired, and began to shout, "A purple! a
purple!" He drew the bird in, as proud as a prince. "There, sir!"
he said; "did n't I tell you it was handsome? It has every color
there is." And indeed it was handsome, worthy to be called the
"Sultana;" with the most exquisite iridescent bluish-purple
plumage, the legs yellow, or greenish-yellow (a point by which it
may be distinguished from the Florida gallinule, as the bird flies
from you), the bill red tipped with pale green, and the shield (on
the forehead, like a continuation of the upper mandible) light
blue, of a peculiar shade, "just as if it had been painted." From
that moment the boy was a new creature. Again and again he spoke of
his altered feelings. He could pull the boat now anywhere I wanted
to go. He was perfectly fresh, he declared, although I thought he
had already done a pretty good day's work under that scorching sun.
I had not imagined how deeply his heart was set upon showing me the
bird I was after. It made me twice as glad to see it, dead though
it was.</p>
<p>Within an hour, on our way homeward, we came upon another. It
sprang out of the lily pads, and sped toward the tall grass of the
shore. "Look! look! a purple!" the boy cried. "See his yellow
legs!" Instinctively he raised his gun, but I said No. It would be
inexcusable to shoot a second one; and besides, we were at that
moment approaching a bird about which I felt a stronger
curiosity,—a snake-bird, or water-turkey, sitting in a willow
shrub at the further end of the bay. "Pull me as near it as it will
let us come," I said. "I want to see as much of it as possible." At
every rod or two I stopped the boat and put up my glasses, till we
were within perhaps sixty feet of the bird. Then it took wing, but
instead of flying away went sweeping about us. On getting round to
the willows again it made as if it would alight, uttering at the
same time some faint ejaculations, like "ah! ah! ah!" but it kept
on for a second sweep of the circle. Then it perched in its old
place, but faced us a little less directly, so that I could see the
beautiful silver tracery of its wings, like the finest of
embroidery, as I thought. After we had eyed it for some minutes we
suddenly perceived a second bird, ten feet or so from it, in full
sight. Where it came from, or how</p>
<p>[Transcriber's Note: missing page 142]</p>
<p>too, shaped like a narrow wedge, was unconscionably long; and as
the bird showed against the sky, I could think of nothing but an
animated sign of addition. A better man—the Emperor
Constantine, shall we say?—might have seen in it a nobler
symbol.</p>
<p>While we were loitering down the river, later in the afternoon,
an eagle made its appearance far overhead, the first one of the
day. The boy, for some reason, refused to believe that it was an
eagle. Nothing but a sight of its white head and tail through the
glass could convince him. (The perfectly square <i>set</i> of the
wings as the bird sails is a pretty strong mark, at no matter what
distance.) Presently an osprey, not far from us, with a fish in his
claws, set up a violent screaming. "It is because he has caught a
fish," said the boy; "he is calling his mate." "No," said I, "it is
because the eagle is after him. Wait a bit." In fact, the eagle was
already in pursuit, and the hawk, as he always does, had begun
struggling upward with all his might. That is the fish-hawk's way
of appealing to Heaven against his oppressor. He was safe for that
time. Three negroes, shad-fishers, were just beyond us (we had seen
them there in the morning, wading about the river setting their
nets), and at the sight of them and of us, I have no doubt, the
eagle turned away. The boy was not peculiar in his notion about the
osprey's scream. Some one else had told me that the bird always
screamed after catching a fish. But I knew better, having seen him
catch a hundred, more or less, without uttering a sound. The safe
rule, in such cases, is to listen to all you hear, and believe
it—after you have verified it for yourself.</p>
<p>It was while we were discussing this question, I think, that the
boy opened his heart to me about my methods of study. He had looked
through the glass now and then, and of course had been astonished
at its power. "Why," he said finally, "I never had any idea it
could be so much fun just to look at birds in the way you do!" I
liked the turn of his phrase. It seemed to say, "Yes, I begin to
see through it. We are in the same boat. This that you call study
is only another kind of sport." I could have shaken hands with him
but that he had the oars. Who does not love to be flattered by an
ingenuous boy?</p>
<p>All in all, the day had been one to be remembered. In addition
to the birds already named—three of them new to me—we
had seen great blue herons, little blue herons, Louisiana herons,
night herons, cormorants, pied-billed grebes, kingfishers,
red-winged blackbirds, boat-tailed grackles, redpoll and myrtle
warblers, savanna sparrows, tree swallows, purple martins, a few
meadow larks, and the ubiquitous turkey buzzard. The boat-tails
abounded along the river banks, and, with their tameness and their
ridiculous outcries, kept us amused whenever there was nothing else
to absorb our attention. The prairie lands through which the river
meanders proved to be surprisingly dry and passable (the water
being unusually low, the boy said), with many cattle pastured upon
them. Here we found the savanna sparrows; here, too, the meadow
larks were singing.</p>
<p>It was a hard pull across the rough lake against the wind (a
dangerous sheet of water for flat-bottomed rowboats, I was told
afterward), but the boy was equal to it, protesting that he didn't
feel tired a bit, now we had got the "purples;" and if he did not
catch the fever from drinking some quarts of river water (a big
bottle of coffee having proved to be only a drop in the bucket),
against my urgent remonstrances and his own judgment, I am sure he
looks back upon the labor as on the whole well spent. He was going
North in the spring, he told me. May joy be with him wherever he
is!</p>
<p>The next morning I took the steamer down the river to Blue
Spring, a distance of some thirty miles, on my way back to New
Smyrna, to a place where there were accessible woods, a beach, and,
not least, a daily sea breeze. The river in that part of its course
is comfortably narrow,—a great advantage,—winding
through cypress swamps, hammock woods, stretches of prairie, and in
one place a pine barren; an interesting and in many ways beautiful
country, but so unwholesome looking as to lose much of its
attractiveness. Three or four large alligators lay sunning
themselves in the most obliging manner upon the banks, here one and
there one, to the vociferous delight of the passengers, who ran
from one side of the deck to the other, as the captain shouted and
pointed. One, he told us, was thirteen feet long, the largest in
the river. Each appeared to have its own well-worn sunning-spot,
and all, I believe, kept their places, as if the passing of the big
steamer—almost too big for the river at some of the sharper
turns—had come to seem a commonplace event. Herons in the
usual variety were present, with ospreys, an eagle, kingfishers,
ground doves, Carolina doves, blackbirds (red-wings and
boat-tails), tree swallows, purple martins, and a single wild
turkey, the first one I had ever seen. It was near the bank of the
river, on a bushy prairie, fully exposed, and crouched as the
steamer passed. For a Massachusetts ornithologist the mere sight of
such a bird was enough to make a pretty good Thanksgiving Day. Blue
yellow-backed warblers were singing here and there, and I retain a
particular remembrance of one bluebird that warbled to us from the
pine-woods. The captain told me, somewhat to my surprise, that he
had seen two flocks of paroquets during the winter (they had been
very abundant along the river within his time, he said), but for me
there was no such fortune. One bird, soaring in company with a
buzzard at a most extraordinary height straight over the river,
greatly excited my curiosity. The captain declared that it must be
a great blue heron; but he had never seen one thus engaged, nor, so
far as I can learn, has any one else ever done so. Its upper parts
seemed to be mostly white, and I can only surmise that it may have
been a sandhill crane, a bird which is said to have such a
habit.</p>
<p>As I left the boat I had a little experience of the seamy side
of Southern travel; nothing to be angry about, perhaps, but
annoying, nevertheless, on a hot day. I surrendered my check to the
purser of the boat, and the deck hands put my trunk upon the
landing at Blue Spring. But there was no one there to receive it,
and the station was locked. We had missed the noon train, with
which we were advertised to connect, by so many hours that I had
ceased to think about it. Finally, a negro, one of several who were
fishing thereabouts, advised me to go "up to the house," which he
pointed out behind some woods, and see the agent. This I did, and
the agent, in turn, advised me to walk up the track to the
"Junction," and be sure to tell the conductor, when the evening
train arrived, as it probably would do some hours later, that I had
a trunk at the landing. Otherwise the train would not run down to
the river, and my baggage would lie there till Monday. He would go
down presently and put it under cover. Happily, he fulfilled his
promise, for it was already beginning to thunder, and soon it
rained in torrents, with a cold wind that made the hot weather all
at once a thing of the past.</p>
<p>It was a long wait in the dreary little station; or rather it
would have been, had not the tedium of it been relieved by the
presence of a newly married couple, whose honeymoon was just then
at the full. Their delight in each other was exuberant,
effervescent, beatific,—what shall I say?—quite beyond
veiling or restraint. At first I bestowed upon them sidewise and
cornerwise glances only, hiding bashfully behind my spectacles, as
it were, and pretending to see nothing; but I soon perceived that I
was to them of no more consequence than a fly on the wall. If they
saw me, which sometimes seemed doubtful,—for love is
blind,—they evidently thought me too sensible, or too old, to
mind a little billing and cooing. And they were right in their
opinion. What was I in Florida for, if not for the study of natural
history? And truly, I have seldom seen, even among birds, a pair
less sophisticated, less cabined and confined by that disastrous
knowledge of good and evil which is commonly understood to have
resulted from the eating of forbidden fruit, and which among
prudish people goes by the name of modesty. It was refreshing.
Charles Lamb himself would have enjoyed it, and, I should hope,
would have added some qualifying footnotes to a certain unamiable
essay of his concerning the behavior of married people.</p>
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