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<h2>ON THE ST. AUGUSTINE ROAD.</h2>
<p>One of my first inquiries at Tallahassee was for the easiest way
to the woods. The city is built on a hill, with other hills about
it. These are mostly under cultivation, and such woods as lay
within sight seemed to be pretty far off; and with the mercury at
ninety in the shade, long tramps were almost out of the question.
"Take the St. Augustine road," said the man to whom I had spoken;
and he pointed out its beginning nearly opposite the state capitol.
After breakfast I followed his advice, with results so pleasing
that I found myself turning that corner again and again as long as
I remained in Tallahassee.</p>
<p>The road goes abruptly downhill to the railway track, first
between deep red gulches, and then between rows of negro cabins,
each with its garden of rosebushes, now (early April) in full
bloom. The deep sides of the gulches were draped with pendent
lantana branches full of purple flowers, or, more beautiful still,
with a profusion of fragrant white honeysuckle. On the roadside,
between the wheel-track and the gulch, grew brilliant Mexican
poppies, with Venus's looking-glass, yellow oxalis, and beds of
blackberry vines. The woods of which my informant had spoken lay a
little beyond the railway, on the right hand of the road, just as
it began another ascent. I entered them at once, and after a
semicircular turn through the pleasant paths, amid live-oaks,
water-oaks, red oaks, chestnut oaks, magnolias, beeches, hickories,
hornbeams, sweet gums, sweet bays, and long-leaved and short-leaved
pines, came out into the road again a quarter of a mile farther up
the hill. They were the fairest of woods to stroll in, it seemed to
me, with paths enough, and not too many, and good enough, but not
too good; that is to say, they were footpaths, not roads, though
afterwards, on a Sunday afternoon, I met two young fellows riding
through them on bicycles. The wood was delightful, also, after my
two months in eastern Florida, for lying on a slope, and for having
an undergrowth of loose shrubbery instead of a jungle of scrub oak
and saw palmetto. Blue jays and crested flycatchers were doing
their best to outscream one another,—with the odds in favor
of the flycatchers,—and a few smaller birds were singing,
especially two or three summer tanagers, as many yellow-throated
warblers, and a ruby-crowned kinglet. In one part of the wood, near
what I took to be an old city reservoir, I came upon a single
white-throated sparrow and a humming-bird,—the latter a
strangely uncommon sight in Tallahassee, where, of all the places I
have ever seen, it ought to find itself in clover. Here, too, were
a pair of Carolina wrens, just now in search of a building-site,
and conducting themselves exactly in the manner of bluebirds intent
on such business; peeping into every hole that offered itself, and
then, after the briefest interchange of opinion,—unfavorable
on the female's part, if we may guess,—concluding to look a
little farther.</p>
<p>As I struck the road again, a man came along on horseback, and
we fell into conversation about the country. "A lovely country," he
called it, and I agreed with him. He inquired where I was from, and
I mentioned that I had lately been in southern Florida, and found
this region a strong contrast. "Yes," he returned; and, pointing to
the grass, he remarked upon the richness of the soil. "This yere
land would fertilize that," he said, speaking of southern Florida.
"I shouldn't wonder," said I. I meant to be understood as
concurring in his opinion, but such a qualified, Yankeefied assent
seemed to him no assent at all. "Oh, it will, it will!" he
responded, as if the point were one about which I must on no
account be left unconvinced. He told me that the fine house at
which I had looked, a little distance back, through a long vista of
trees, was the residence of Captain H., who owned all the land
along the road for a good distance. I inquired how far the road was
pretty, like this. "For forty miles," he said. That was farther
than I was ready to walk, and coming soon to the top of the hill,
or, more exactly, of the plateau, I stopped in the shade of a
china-tree, and looked at the pleasing prospect. Behind me was a
plantation of young pear-trees, and before me, among the hills
northward, lay broad, cultivated slopes, dotted here and there with
cabins and tall, solitary trees. On the nearer slope, perhaps a
sixteenth of a mile away, a negro was ploughing, with a single ox
harnessed in some primitive manner, —with pieces of wood, for
the most part, as well as I could make out through an opera-glass.
The soil offered the least possible hindrance, and both he and the
ox seemed to be having a literal "walk-over." Beyond him—a
full half-mile away, perhaps—another man was ploughing with a
mule; and in another direction a third was doing likewise, with a
woman following in his wake. A colored boy of seventeen—I
guessed his age at twenty-three—came up the road in a cart,
and I stopped him to inquire about the crops and other matters. The
land in front of me was planted with cotton, he said; and the men
ploughing in the distance were getting ready to plant the same.
They hired the land and the cabins of Captain H., paying him so
much cotton (not so much an acre, but so much a mule, if I
understood him rightly) by way of rent. We talked a long time about
one thing and another. He had been south as far as the Indian River
country, but was glad to be back again in Tallahassee, where he was
born. I asked him about the road, how far it went. "They tell me it
goes smack to St. Augustine," he replied; "I ain't tried it." It
was an unlikely story, it seemed to me, but I was assured afterward
that he was right; that the road actually runs across the country
from Tallahassee to St. Augustine, a distance of about two hundred
miles. With company of my own choosing, and in cooler weather, I
thought I should like to walk its whole length.<SPAN id="footnotetag9"
name="footnotetag9"></SPAN><SPAN href="#footnote9"><sup>9</sup></SPAN> My
young man was in no haste. With the reins (made of rope, after a
fashion much followed in Florida) lying on the forward axle of his
cart, he seemed to have put himself entirely at my service. He had
to the full that peculiar urbanity which I began after a while to
look upon as characteristic of Tallahassee negroes,—a
gentleness of speech, and a kindly, deferential air, neither
forward nor servile, such as sits well on any man, whatever the
color of his skin.</p>
<p>In that respect he was like another boy of about his own age,
who lived in the cabin directly before us, but whom I did not see
till I had been several times over the road. Then he happened to be
at work near the edge of the field, and I beckoned him to me. He,
too, was serious and manly in his bearing, and showed no
disposition to go back to his hoe till I broke off the
interview,—as if it were a point of good manners with him to
await my pleasure. Yes, the plantation was a good one and easily
cultivated, he said, in response to some remark of my own. There
were five in the family, and they all worked. "We are all big
enough to eat," he added, quite simply. He had never been North,
but had lately declined the offer of a gentleman who wished to take
him there,—him and "another fellow." He once went to
Jacksonville, but couldn't stay. "You can get along without your
father pretty well, but it's another thing to do without your
mother." He never meant to leave home again as long as his mother
lived; which was likely to be for some years, I thought, if she
were still able to do her part in the cotton-field. As a general
thing, the colored tenants of the cabins made out pretty well, he
believed, unless something happened to the crops. As for the old
servants of the H. family, they did n't have to work,—they
were provided for; Captain H.'s father "left it so in his
testimonial." I spoke of the purple martins which were flying back
and forth over the field with many cheerful noises, and of the
calabashes that hung from a tall pole in one corner of the cabin
yard, for their accommodation. On my way South, I told him, I had
noticed these dangling long-necked squashes everywhere, and had
wondered what they were for. I had found out since that they were
the colored man's martin-boxes, and was glad to see the people so
fond of the birds. "Yes," he said, "there's no danger of hawks
carrying off the chickens as long as the martins are round."</p>
<p>Twice afterward, as I went up the road, I found him ploughing
between the cotton rows; but he was too far away to be accosted
without shouting, and I did not feel justified in interrupting him
at his work. Back and forth he went through the long furrow after
the patient ox, the hens and chickens following. No doubt they
thought the work was all for their benefit. Farther away, a man and
two women were hoeing. The family deserved to prosper, I said to
myself, as I lay under a big magnolia-tree (just beginning to open
its large white flowers) and idly enjoyed the scene. And it was
just here, by the bye, that I solved an interesting etymological
puzzle, to wit, the origin and precise meaning of the word
"baygall,"—a word which the visitor often hears upon the lips
of Florida people. An old hunter in Smyrna, when I questioned him
about it, told me that it meant a swampy piece of wood, and took
its origin, he had always supposed, from the fact that bay-trees
and gall-bushes commonly grew in such places. A Tallahassee
gentleman agreed with this explanation, and promised to bring home
some gall-berries the next time he came across any, that I might
see what they were; but the berries were never forthcoming, and I
was none the wiser, till, on one of my last trips up the St.
Augustine road, as I stood under the large magnolia just mentioned,
a colored man came along, hat in hand, and a bag of grain balanced
on his head.</p>
<p>"That's a large magnolia," said I.</p>
<p>He assented.</p>
<p>"That's about as large as magnolias ever grow, isn't it?"</p>
<p>"No, sir; down in the gall there's magnolias a heap bigger 'n
that."</p>
<p>"A gall? What's that?"</p>
<p>"A baygall, sir."</p>
<p>"And what's a baygall?"</p>
<p>"A big wood."</p>
<p>"And why do you call it a baygall?"</p>
<p>He was stumped, it was plain to see. No doubt he would have
scratched his head, if that useful organ had been accessible. He
hesitated; but it isn't like an uneducated man to confess
ignorance. "'Cause it's a desert," he said, "a thick
<i>place</i>."</p>
<p>"Yes, yes," I answered, and he resumed his march.</p>
<p>The road was traveled mostly by negroes. On Sunday afternoons it
looked quite like a flower garden, it was so full of bright dresses
coming home from church. "Now'-days folks git religion so easy!"
one young woman said to another, as they passed me. She was a
conservative. I did not join the procession, but on other days I
talked, first and last, with a good many of the people; from the
preacher, who carried a handsome cane and made me a still handsomer
bow, down to a serious little fellow of six or seven years, whom I
found standing at the foot of the hill, beside a bundle of dead
wood. He was carrying it home for the family stove, and had set it
down for a minute's rest. I said something about his burden, and as
I went on he called after me: "What kind of birds are you hunting
for? Ricebirds?" I answered that I was looking for birds of all
sorts. Had he seen any ricebirds lately? Yes, he said; he started a
flock the other day up on<SPAN id="footnotetag10" name=
"footnotetag10"></SPAN><SPAN href="#footnote10"><sup>10</sup></SPAN> the
hill. "How did they look?" said I. "They is red blackbirds," he
returned. This was not the first time I had heard the redwing
called the ricebird. But how did the boy know me for a bird-gazer?
That was a mystery. It came over me all at once that possibly I had
become better known in the community than I had in the least
suspected; and then I remembered my field-glass. That, as I could
not help being aware, was an object of continual attention. Every
day I saw people, old and young, black and white, looking at it
with undisguised curiosity. Often they passed audible comments upon
it among themselves. "How far can you see through the spyglass?" a
bolder spirit would now and then venture to ask; and once, on the
railway track out in the pine lands, a barefooted, happy-faced
urchin made a guess that was really admirable for its ingenuity.
"Looks like you're goin' over inspectin' the wire," he remarked. On
rare occasions, as an act of special grace, I offered such an
inquirer a peep through the magic lenses,—an experiment that
never failed to elicit exclamations of wonder. Things were so near!
And the observer looked comically incredulous, on putting down the
glass, to find how suddenly the landscape had slipped away again.
More than one colored man wanted to know its price, and expressed a
fervent desire to possess one like it; and probably, if I had ever
been assaulted and robbed in all my solitary wanderings through the
flat-woods and other lonesome places, my "spyglass" rather than my
purse—the "lust of the eye" rather than the "pride of
life"—would have been to thank.</p>
<p>Here, however, there could be no thought of such a contingency.
Here were no vagabonds (one inoffensive Yankee specimen excepted),
but hard-working people going into the city or out again, each on
his own lawful business. Scarcely one of them, man or woman, but
greeted me kindly. One, a white man on horseback, invited, and even
urged me, to mount his horse, and let him walk a piece. I must be
fatigued, he was sure,—how could I help it?—and he
would as soon walk as not. Finding me obstinate, he walked his
horse at my side, chatting about the country, the trees, and the
crops. He it was who called my particular attention to the
abundance of blackberry vines. "Are the berries sweet?" I asked. He
smacked his lips. "Sweet as honey, and big as that," measuring off
a liberal portion of his thumb. I spoke of them half an hour later
to a middle-aged colored man. Yes, he said, the blackberries were
plenty enough and sweet enough; but, for his part, he didn't
trouble them a great deal. The vines (and he pointed at them,
fringing the roadside indefinitely) were great places for
rattlesnakes. He liked the berries, but he liked somebody else to
pick them. He was awfully afraid of snakes; they were so dangerous.
"Yes, sir" (this in answer to an inquiry), "there are plenty of
rattlesnakes here clean up to Christmas." I liked him for his frank
avowal of cowardice, and still more for his quiet bearing. He
remembered the days of slavery,—"before the surrender," as
the current Southern phrase is,—and his face beamed when I
spoke of my joy in thinking that his people were free, no matter
what might befall them. He, too, raised cotton on hired land, and
was bringing up his children—there were eight of them, he
said—to habits of industry.</p>
<p>My second stroll toward St. Augustine carried me perhaps three
miles,—say one sixty-sixth of the entire distance,—and
none of my subsequent excursions took me any farther; and having
just now commended a negro for his candor, I am moved to
acknowledge that, between the sand underfoot and the sun overhead,
I found the six miles, which I spent at least four hours in
accomplishing, more fatiguing than twice that distance would have
been over New Hampshire hills. If I were to settle in that country,
I should probably fall into the way of riding more, and walking
less. I remember thinking how comfortable a certain ponderous black
mammy looked, whom I met on one of these same sunny and sandy
tramps. She sat in the very middle of a tipcart, with an old and
truly picturesque man's hat on her head (quite in the fashion,
feminine readers will notice), driving a one-horned ox with a pair
of clothes-line reins. She was traveling slowly, just as I like to
travel; and, as I say, I was impressed by her comfortable
appearance. Why would not an equipage like that be just the thing
for a naturalistic idler?</p>
<p>Not far beyond my halting-place of two days before I came to a
Cherokee rosebush, one of the most beautiful of
plants,—white, fragrant, single roses (<i>real</i> roses) set
in the midst of the handsomest of glossy green leaves. I was
delighted to find it still in flower. A hundred miles farther south
I had seen it finishing its season a full month earlier. I stopped,
of course, to pluck a blossom. At that moment a female redbird flew
out of the bush. Her mate was beside her instantly, and a nameless
something in their manner told me they were trying to keep a
secret. The nest, built mainly of pine needles and other leaves,
was in the middle of the bush, a foot or two from the grass, and
contained two bluish or greenish eggs thickly spattered with dark
brown. I meant to look into it again (the owners seemed to have no
great objection), but somehow missed it every time I passed. From
that point, as far as I went, the road was lined with Cherokee
roses,—not continuously, but with short intermissions; and
from the number of redbirds seen, almost invariably in pairs, I
feel safe in saying that the nest I had found was probably one of
fifteen or twenty scattered along the wayside. How gloriously the
birds sang! It was their day for singing. I was ready to christen
the road anew,—Redbird Road.</p>
<p>But the redbirds, many and conspicuous as they were, had no
monopoly of the road or of the day. House wrens were equally
numerous and equally at home, though they sang more out of sight.
Red-eyed chewinks, still far from their native berry pastures,
hopped into a bush to cry, "Who's he?" at the passing of a
stranger, in whom, for aught I know, they may have half recognized
an old acquaintance. A bunch of quails ran across the road a little
in front of me, and in another place fifteen or twenty red-winged
blackbirds (not a red wing among them) sat gossiping in a treetop.
Elsewhere, even later than this (it was now April 7), I saw flocks,
every bird of which wore shoulder-straps, —like the
traditional militia company, all officers. <i>They</i> did not
gossip, of course (it is the male that sports the red), but they
made a lively noise.</p>
<p>As for the mocking-birds, they were at the front here, as they
were everywhere. During my fortnight in Tallahassee there were
never many consecutive five minutes of daylight in which, if I
stopped to listen, I could not hear at least one mocker. Oftener
two or three were singing at once in as many different directions.
And, speaking of them, I must speak also of their more northern
cousin. From the day I entered Florida I had been saying that the
mocking-bird, save for his occasional mimicry of other birds, sang
so exactly like the thrasher that I did not believe I could tell
one from the other. Now, however, on this St. Augustine road, I
suddenly became aware of a bird singing somewhere in advance, and
as I listened again I said aloud, with full persuasion, "There!
that's a thrasher!" There was a something of difference: a shade of
coarseness in the voice, perhaps; a tendency to force the tone, as
we say of human singers,—a <i>something</i>, at all events,
and the longer I hearkened, the more confident I felt that the bird
was a thrasher. And so it was,—the first one I had heard in
Florida, although I had seen many. Probably the two birds have
peculiarities of voice and method that, with longer familiarity on
the listener's part, would render them easily distinguishable. On
general principles, I must believe that to be true of all birds.
But the experience just described is not to be taken as proving
that <i>I</i> have any such familiarity. Within a week afterward,
while walking along the railway, I came upon a thrasher and a
mocking-bird singing side by side; the mocker upon a telegraph
pole, and the thrasher on the wire, halfway between the mocker and
the next pole. They sang and sang, while I stood between them in
the cut below and listened; and if my life had depended on my
seeing how one song differed from the other, I could not have done
it. With my eyes shut, the birds might have changed
places,—if they could have done it quickly enough,—and
I should have been none the wiser.</p>
<p>As I have said, I followed the road over the nearly level
plateau for what I guessed to be about three miles. Then I found
myself in a bit of hollow that seemed made for a stopping-place,
with a plantation road running off to the right, and a hillside
cornfield of many acres on the left. In the field were a few tall
dead trees. At the tip of one sat a sparrow-hawk, and to the trunk
of another clung a red-bellied woodpecker, who, with characteristic
foolishness, sat beside his hole calling persistently, and then, as
if determined to publish what other birds so carefully conceal,
went inside, thrust out his head, and resumed his clatter. Here,
too, were a pair of bluebirds, noticeable for their rarity, and for
the wonderful color— a shade deeper than is ever seen at the
North, I think—of the male's blue coat. In a small thicket in
the hollow beside the road were noisy white-eyed vireos, a
ruby-crowned kinglet,—a tiny thing that within a month would
be singing in Canada, or beyond,—an unseen wood pewee, and
(also unseen) a hermit thrush, one of perhaps twenty solitary
individuals that I found scattered about the woods in the course of
my journeyings. Not one of them sang a note. Probably they did not
know that there was a Yankee in Florida who—in some moods, at
least—would have given more for a dozen bars of hermit thrush
music than for a day and a night of the mocking-bird's medley. Not
that I mean to disparage the great Southern performer; as a
vocalist he is so far beyond the hermit thrush as to render a
comparison absurd; but what I love is a <i>singer</i>, a voice to
reach the soul. An old Tallahassee negro, near the "white Norman
school,"—so he called it,—hit off the mocking-bird
pretty well. I had called his attention to one singing in an
adjacent dooryard. "Yes," he said, "I love to hear 'em. They's very
amusin', very amusin'." My own feeling can hardly be a prejudice,
conscious or unconscious, in favor of what has grown dear to me
through early and long-continued association. The difference
between the music of birds like the mocker, the thrasher, and the
catbird and that of birds like the hermit, the veery, and the wood
thrush is one of kind, not of degree; and I have heard music of the
mocking-bird's kind (the thrasher's, that is to say) as long as I
have heard music at all. The question is one of taste, it is true;
but it is not a question of familiarity or favoritism. All praise
to the mocker and the thrasher! May their tribe increase! But if we
are to indulge in comparisons, give me the wood thrush, the hermit,
and the veery; with tones that the mocking-bird can never imitate,
and a simplicity which the Fates—the wise Fates, who will
have variety—have put forever beyond his appreciation and his
reach.</p>
<p>Florida as I saw it (let the qualification be noted) is no more
a land of flowers than New England. In some respects, indeed, it is
less so. Flowering shrubs and climbers there are in abundance. I
rode in the cars through miles on miles of flowering dogwood and
pink azalea. Here, on this Tallahassee road, were miles of Cherokee
roses, with plenty of the climbing scarlet honeysuckle (beloved of
humming-birds, although I saw none here), and nearer the city, as
already described, masses of lantana and white honeysuckle. In more
than one place pink double roses (vagrants from cultivated grounds,
no doubt) offered buds and blooms to all who would have them. The
cross-vine (<i>Bignonia</i>), less freehanded, hung its showy bells
out of reach in the treetops. Thorn-bushes of several kinds were in
flower (a puzzling lot), and the treelike blueberry (<i>Vaccinium
arboreum</i>), loaded with its large, flaring white corollas, was a
real spectacle of beauty. Here, likewise, I found one tiny
crab-apple shrub, with a few blossoms, exquisitely tinted with
rose-color, and most exquisitely fragrant. But the New Englander,
when he talks of wild flowers, has in his eye something different
from these. He is not thinking of any bush, no matter how
beautiful, but of trailing arbutus, hepaticas, bloodroot, anemones,
saxifrage, violets, dogtooth violets, spring beauties, "cowslips,"
buttercups, corydalis, columbine, Dutchman's breeches, clintonia,
five-finger, and all the rest of that bright and fragrant host
which, ever since he can remember, he has seen covering his native
hills and valleys with the return of May.</p>
<p>It is not meant, of course, that plants like these are wholly
wanting in Florida. I remember an abundance of violets, blue and
white, especially in the flat-woods, where also I often found
pretty butterworts of two or three sorts. The smaller blue ones
took very acceptably the place of hepaticas, and indeed I heard
them called by that name. But, as compared with what one sees in
New England, such "ground flowers," flowers which it seems
perfectly natural to pluck for a nosegay, were very little in
evidence. I heard Northern visitors remark the fact again and
again. On this pretty road out of Tallahassee—itself a city
of flower gardens —I can recall nothing of the kind except
half a dozen strawberry blossoms, and the oxalis and specularia
before mentioned. Probably the round-leaved houstonia grew here, as
it did everywhere, in small scattered patches. If there were
violets as well, I can only say I have forgotten them.</p>
<p>Be it added, however, that at the time I did not miss them. In a
garden of roses one does not begin by sighing for mignonette and
lilies of the valley. Violets or no violets, there was no lack of
beauty. The Southern highway surveyor, if such a personage exists,
is evidently not consumed by that distressing puritanical passion
for "slicking up things" which too often makes of his Northern
brother something scarcely better than a public nuisance. At the
South you will not find a woman cultivating with pain a few exotics
beside the front door, while her husband is mowing and burning the
far more attractive wild garden that nature has planted just
outside the fence. The St. Augustine road, at any rate, after
climbing the hill and getting beyond the wood, runs between natural
hedges,—trees, vines, and shrubs carelessly
intermingled,—not dense enough to conceal the prospect or
shut out the breeze ("straight from the Gulf," as the Tallahassean
is careful to inform you), but sufficient to afford much welcome
protection from the sun. Here it was good to find the sassafras
growing side by side with the persimmon, although when, for old
acquaintance' sake, I put a leaf into my mouth I was half glad to
fancy it a thought less savory than some I had tasted in
Yankeeland. I took a kind of foolish satisfaction, too, in the
obvious fact that certain plants—the sumach and the Virginia
creeper, to mention no others—were less at home here than a
thousand miles farther north. With the wild-cherry trees, I was
obliged to confess, the case was reversed. I had seen larger ones
in Massachusetts, perhaps, but none that looked half so clean and
thrifty. In truth, their appearance was a puzzle, rum-cherry trees
as by all tokens they undoubtedly were, till of a sudden it flashed
upon me that there were no caterpillars' nests in them! Then I
ceased to wonder at their odd look. It spoke well for my botanical
acumen that I had recognized them at all.</p>
<p>Before I had been a week in Tallahassee I found that, without
forethought or plan, I had dropped into the habit (and how pleasant
it is to think that some good habits <i>can</i> be dropped into!)
of making the St. Augustine road my after-dinner sauntering-place.
The morning was for a walk: to Lake Bradford, perhaps, in search of
a mythical ivory-billed woodpecker, or westward on the railway for
a few miles, with a view to rare migratory warblers. But in the
afternoon I did not walk,—I loitered; and though I still
minded the birds and flowers, I for the most part forgot my botany
and ornithology. In the cool of the day, then (the phrase is an
innocent euphemism), I climbed the hill, and after an hour or two
on the plateau strolled back again, facing the sunset through a
vista of moss-covered live-oaks and sweet gums. Those quiet,
incurious hours are among the pleasantest of all my Florida
memories. A cuckoo would be cooing, perhaps; or a quail, with
cheerful ambiguity,— such as belongs to weather predictions
in general,—would be prophesying "more wet" and "no more wet"
in alternate breaths; or two or three night-hawks would be sweeping
back and forth high above the valley; or a marsh hawk would be
quartering over the big oatfield. The martins would be cackling, in
any event, and the kingbirds practicing their aerial mock
somersaults; and the mocking-bird would be singing, and the redbird
whistling. On the western slope, just below the oatfield, the
Northern woman who owned the pretty cottage there (the only one on
the road) was sure to be at work among her flowers. A laughing
colored boy who did chores for her (without injury to his health, I
could warrant) told me that she was a Northerner. But I knew it
already; I needed no witness but her beds of petunias. In the
valley, as I crossed the railroad track, a loggerhead shrike sat,
almost of course, on the telegraph wire in dignified silence; and
just beyond, among the cabins, I had my choice of mocking-birds and
orchard orioles. And so, admiring the roses and the pomegranates,
the lantanas and the honeysuckles, or chatting with some dusky
fellow-pilgrim, I mounted the hill to the city, and likely as not
saw before me a red-headed woodpecker sitting on the roof of the
State House, calling attention to his patriotic self—in his
tri-colored dress—by occasional vigorous tattoos on the
tinned ridgepole. I never saw him there without gladness. The
legislature had begun its session in an economical mood,—as
is more or less the habit of legislatures, I believe,—and was
even considering a proposition to reduce the salary and mileage of
its members. Under such circumstances, it ought not to have been a
matter of surprise, perhaps, that no flag floated from the cupola
of the capitol. The people's money should not be wasted. And
possibly I should never have remarked the omission but for a
certain curiosity, natural, if not inevitable, on the part of a
Northern visitor, as to the real feeling of the South toward the
national government. Day after day I had seen a portly
gentleman—with an air, or with airs, as the spectator might
choose to express it—going in and out of the State House
gate, dressed ostentatiously in a suit of Confederate gray. He had
worn nothing else since the war, I was told. But of course the
State of Florida was not to be judged by the freak of one man, and
he only a member of the "third house." And even when I went into
the governor's office, and saw the original "ordinance of
secession" hanging in a conspicuous place on the wall, as if it
were an heirloom to be proud of, I felt no stirring of sectional
animosity, thorough-bred Massachusetts Yankee and old-fashioned
abolitionist as I am. A brave people can hardly be expected or
desired to forget its history, especially when that history has to
do with sacrifices and heroic deeds. But these things, taken
together, did no doubt prepare me to look upon it as a happy
coincidence when, one morning, I heard the familiar cry of the
red-headed woodpecker, for the first time in Florida, and looked up
to see him flying the national colors from the ridgepole of the
State House. I did not break out with "Three cheers for the red,
white, and blue!" I am naturally undemonstrative; but I said to
myself that <i>Melanerpes erythrocephalus</i> was a very handsome
bird.</p>
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