<h2>CHAPTER XIII—ARRIVAL IN CHINA</h2>
<p>The greater weight the anxieties and perplexities of these
things were to our thoughts while we were at sea, the greater was
our satisfaction when we saw ourselves on shore; and my partner
told me he dreamed that he had a very heavy load upon his back,
which he was to carry up a hill, and found that he was not able
to stand longer under it; but that the Portuguese pilot came and
took it off his back, and the hill disappeared, the ground before
him appearing all smooth and plain: and truly it was so; they
were all like men who had a load taken off their backs. For
my part I had a weight taken off from my heart that it was not
able any longer to bear; and as I said above we resolved to go no
more to sea in that ship. When we came on shore, the old
pilot, who was now our friend, got us a lodging, together with a
warehouse for our goods; it was a little hut, with a larger house
adjoining to it, built and also palisadoed round with canes, to
keep out pilferers, of which there were not a few in that
country: however, the magistrates allowed us a little guard, and
we had a soldier with a kind of half-pike, who stood sentinel at
our door, to whom we allowed a pint of rice and a piece of money
about the value of three-pence per day, so that our goods were
kept very safe.</p>
<p>The fair or mart usually kept at this place had been over some
time; however, we found that there were three or four junks in
the river, and two ships from Japan, with goods which they had
bought in China, and were not gone away, having some Japanese
merchants on shore.</p>
<p>The first thing our old Portuguese pilot did for us was to get
us acquainted with three missionary Romish priests who were in
the town, and who had been there some time converting the people
to Christianity; but we thought they made but poor work of it,
and made them but sorry Christians when they had done. One
of these was a Frenchman, whom they called Father Simon; another
was a Portuguese; and a third a Genoese. Father Simon was
courteous, and very agreeable company; but the other two were
more reserved, seemed rigid and austere, and applied seriously to
the work they came about, viz. to talk with and insinuate
themselves among the inhabitants wherever they had
opportunity. We often ate and drank with those men; and
though I must confess the conversion, as they call it, of the
Chinese to Christianity is so far from the true conversion
required to bring heathen people to the faith of Christ, that it
seems to amount to little more than letting them know the name of
Christ, and say some prayers to the Virgin Mary and her Son, in a
tongue which they understood not, and to cross themselves, and
the like; yet it must be confessed that the religionists, whom we
call missionaries, have a firm belief that these people will be
saved, and that they are the instruments of it; and on this
account they undergo not only the fatigue of the voyage, and the
hazards of living in such places, but oftentimes death itself,
and the most violent tortures, for the sake of this work.</p>
<p>Father Simon was appointed, it seems, by order of the chief of
the mission, to go up to Pekin, and waited only for another
priest, who was ordered to come to him from Macao, to go along
with him. We scarce ever met together but he was inviting
me to go that journey; telling me how he would show me all the
glorious things of that mighty empire, and, among the rest,
Pekin, the greatest city in the world: “A city,” said
he, “that your London and our Paris put together cannot be
equal to.” But as I looked on those things with
different eyes from other men, so I shall give my opinion of them
in a few words, when I come in the course of my travels to speak
more particularly of them.</p>
<p>Dining with Father Simon one day, and being very merry
together, I showed some little inclination to go with him; and he
pressed me and my partner very hard to consent. “Why,
father,” says my partner, “should you desire our
company so much? you know we are heretics, and you do not love
us, nor cannot keep us company with any
pleasure.”—“Oh,” says he, “you may
perhaps be good Catholics in time; my business here is to convert
heathens, and who knows but I may convert you
too?”—“Very well, father,” said I,
“so you will preach to us all the
way?”—“I will not be troublesome to you,”
says he; “our religion does not divest us of good manners;
besides, we are here like countrymen; and so we are, compared to
the place we are in; and if you are Huguenots, and I a Catholic,
we may all be Christians at last; at least, we are all gentlemen,
and we may converse so, without being uneasy to one
another.” I liked this part of his discourse very
well, and it began to put me in mind of my priest that I had left
in the Brazils; but Father Simon did not come up to his character
by a great deal; for though this friar had no appearance of a
criminal levity in him, yet he had not that fund of Christian
zeal, strict piety, and sincere affection to religion that my
other good ecclesiastic had.</p>
<p>But to leave him a little, though he never left us, nor
solicited us to go with him; we had something else before us at
first, for we had all this while our ship and our merchandise to
dispose of, and we began to be very doubtful what we should do,
for we were now in a place of very little business. Once I
was about to venture to sail for the river of Kilam, and the city
of Nankin; but Providence seemed now more visibly, as I thought,
than ever to concern itself in our affairs; and I was encouraged,
from this very time, to think I should, one way or other, get out
of this entangled circumstance, and be brought home to my own
country again, though I had not the least view of the
manner. Providence, I say, began here to clear up our way a
little; and the first thing that offered was, that our old
Portuguese pilot brought a Japan merchant to us, who inquired
what goods we had: and, in the first place, he bought all our
opium, and gave us a very good price for it, paying us in gold by
weight, some in small pieces of their own coin, and some in small
wedges, of about ten or twelves ounces each. While we were
dealing with him for our opium, it came into my head that he
might perhaps deal for the ship too, and I ordered the
interpreter to propose it to him. He shrunk up his
shoulders at it when it was first proposed to him; but in a few
days after he came to me, with one of the missionary priests for
his interpreter, and told me he had a proposal to make to me,
which was this: he had bought a great quantity of our goods, when
he had no thoughts of proposals made to him of buying the ship;
and that, therefore, he had not money to pay for the ship: but if
I would let the same men who were in the ship navigate her, he
would hire the ship to go to Japan; and would send them from
thence to the Philippine Islands with another loading, which he
would pay the freight of before they went from Japan: and that at
their return he would buy the ship. I began to listen to
his proposal, and so eager did my head still run upon rambling,
that I could not but begin to entertain a notion of going myself
with him, and so to set sail from the Philippine Islands away to
the South Seas; accordingly, I asked the Japanese merchant if he
would not hire us to the Philippine Islands and discharge us
there. He said No, he could not do that, for then he could
not have the return of his cargo; but he would discharge us in
Japan, at the ship’s return. Well, still I was for
taking him at that proposal, and going myself; but my partner,
wiser than myself, persuaded me from it, representing the
dangers, as well of the seas as of the Japanese, who are a false,
cruel, and treacherous people; likewise those of the Spaniards at
the Philippines, more false, cruel, and treacherous than
they.</p>
<p>But to bring this long turn of our affairs to a conclusion;
the first thing we had to do was to consult with the captain of
the ship, and with his men, and know if they were willing to go
to Japan. While I was doing this, the young man whom my
nephew had left with me as my companion came up, and told me that
he thought that voyage promised very fair, and that there was a
great prospect of advantage, and he would be very glad if I
undertook it; but that if I would not, and would give him leave,
he would go as a merchant, or as I pleased to order him; that if
ever he came to England, and I was there and alive, he would
render me a faithful account of his success, which should be as
much mine as I pleased. I was loath to part with him; but
considering the prospect of advantage, which really was
considerable, and that he was a young fellow likely to do well in
it, I inclined to let him go; but I told him I would consult my
partner, and give him an answer the next day. I discoursed
about it with my partner, who thereupon made a most generous
offer: “You know it has been an unlucky ship,” said
he, “and we both resolve not to go to sea in it again; if
your steward” (so he called my man) “will venture the
voyage, I will leave my share of the vessel to him, and let him
make the best of it; and if we live to meet in England, and he
meets with success abroad, he shall account for one half of the
profits of the ship’s freight to us; the other shall be his
own.”</p>
<p>If my partner, who was no way concerned with my young man,
made him such an offer, I could not do less than offer him the
same; and all the ship’s company being willing to go with
him, we made over half the ship to him in property, and took a
writing from him, obliging him to account for the other, and away
he went to Japan. The Japan merchant proved a very
punctual, honest man to him: protected him at Japan, and got him
a licence to come on shore, which the Europeans in general have
not lately obtained. He paid him his freight very
punctually; sent him to the Philippines loaded with Japan and
China wares, and a supercargo of their own, who, trafficking with
the Spaniards, brought back European goods again, and a great
quantity of spices; and there he was not only paid his freight
very well, and at a very good price, but not being willing to
sell the ship, then the merchant furnished him goods on his own
account; and with some money, and some spices of his own which he
brought with him, he went back to the Manillas, where he sold his
cargo very well. Here, having made a good acquaintance at
Manilla, he got his ship made a free ship, and the governor of
Manilla hired him to go to Acapulco, on the coast of America, and
gave him a licence to land there, and to travel to Mexico, and to
pass in any Spanish ship to Europe with all his men. He
made the voyage to Acapulco very happily, and there he sold his
ship: and having there also obtained allowance to travel by land
to Porto Bello, he found means to get to Jamaica, with all his
treasure, and about eight years after came to England exceeding
rich.</p>
<p>But to return to our particular affairs, being now to part
with the ship and ship’s company, it came before us, of
course, to consider what recompense we should give to the two men
that gave us such timely notice of the design against us in the
river Cambodia. The truth was, they had done us a very
considerable service, and deserved well at our hands; though, by
the way, they were a couple of rogues, too; for, as they believed
the story of our being pirates, and that we had really run away
with the ship, they came down to us, not only to betray the
design that was formed against us, but to go to sea with us as
pirates. One of them confessed afterwards that nothing else
but the hopes of going a-roguing brought him to do it: however,
the service they did us was not the less, and therefore, as I had
promised to be grateful to them, I first ordered the money to be
paid them which they said was due to them on board their
respective ships: over and above that, I gave each of them a
small sum of money in gold, which contented them very well.
I then made the Englishman gunner in the ship, the gunner being
now made second mate and purser; the Dutchman I made boatswain;
so they were both very well pleased, and proved very serviceable,
being both able seamen, and very stout fellows.</p>
<p>We were now on shore in China; if I thought myself banished,
and remote from my own country at Bengal, where I had many ways
to get home for my money, what could I think of myself now, when
I was about a thousand leagues farther off from home, and
destitute of all manner of prospect of return? All we had
for it was this: that in about four months’ time there was
to be another fair at the place where we were, and then we might
be able to purchase various manufactures of the country, and
withal might possibly find some Chinese junks from Tonquin for
sail, that would carry us and our goods whither we pleased.
This I liked very well, and resolved to wait; besides, as our
particular persons were not obnoxious, so if any English or Dutch
ships came thither, perhaps we might have an opportunity to load
our goods, and get passage to some other place in India nearer
home. Upon these hopes we resolved to continue here; but,
to divert ourselves, we took two or three journeys into the
country.</p>
<p>First, we went ten days’ journey to Nankin, a city well
worth seeing; they say it has a million of people in it: it is
regularly built, and the streets are all straight, and cross one
another in direct lines. But when I come to compare the
miserable people of these countries with ours, their fabrics,
their manner of living, their government, their religion, their
wealth, and their glory, as some call it, I must confess that I
scarcely think it worth my while to mention them here. We
wonder at the grandeur, the riches, the pomp, the ceremonies, the
government, the manufactures, the commerce, and conduct of these
people; not that there is really any matter for wonder, but
because, having a true notion of the barbarity of those
countries, the rudeness and the ignorance that prevail there, we
do not expect to find any such thing so far off. Otherwise,
what are their buildings to the palaces and royal buildings of
Europe? What their trade to the universal commerce of
England, Holland, France, and Spain? What are their cities
to ours, for wealth, strength, gaiety of apparel, rich furniture,
and infinite variety? What are their ports, supplied with a
few junks and barks, to our navigation, our merchant fleets, our
large and powerful navies? Our city of London has more
trade than half their mighty empire: one English, Dutch, or
French man-of-war of eighty guns would be able to fight almost
all the shipping belonging to China: but the greatness of their
wealth, their trade, the power of their government, and the
strength of their armies, may be a little surprising to us,
because, as I have said, considering them as a barbarous nation
of pagans, little better than savages, we did not expect such
things among them. But all the forces of their empire,
though they were to bring two millions of men into the field
together, would be able to do nothing but ruin the country and
starve themselves; a million of their foot could not stand before
one embattled body of our infantry, posted so as not to be
surrounded, though they were not to be one to twenty in number;
nay, I do not boast if I say that thirty thousand German or
English foot, and ten thousand horse, well managed, could defeat
all the forces of China. Nor is there a fortified town in
China that could hold out one month against the batteries and
attacks of an European army. They have firearms, it is
true, but they are awkward and uncertain in their going off; and
their powder has but little strength. Their armies are
badly disciplined, and want skill to attack, or temper to
retreat; and therefore, I must confess, it seemed strange to me,
when I came home, and heard our people say such fine things of
the power, glory, magnificence, and trade of the Chinese;
because, as far as I saw, they appeared to be a contemptible herd
or crowd of ignorant, sordid slaves, subjected to a government
qualified only to rule such a people; and were not its distance
inconceivably, great from Muscovy, and that empire in a manner as
rude, impotent, and ill governed as they, the Czar of Muscovy
might with ease drive them all out of their country, and conquer
them in one campaign; and had the Czar (who is now a growing
prince) fallen this way, instead of attacking the warlike Swedes,
and equally improved himself in the art of war, as they say he
has done; and if none of the powers of Europe had envied or
interrupted him, he might by this time have been Emperor of
China, instead of being beaten by the King of Sweden at Narva,
when the latter was not one to six in number.</p>
<p>As their strength and their grandeur, so their navigation,
commerce, and husbandry are very imperfect, compared to the same
things in Europe; also, in their knowledge, their learning, and
in their skill in the sciences, they are either very awkward or
defective, though they have globes or spheres, and a smattering
of the mathematics, and think they know more than all the world
besides. But they know little of the motions of the
heavenly bodies; and so grossly and absurdly ignorant are their
common people, that when the sun is eclipsed, they think a great
dragon has assaulted it, and is going to run away with it; and
they fall a clattering with all the drums and kettles in the
country, to fright the monster away, just as we do to hive a
swarm of bees!</p>
<p>As this is the only excursion of the kind which I have made in
all the accounts I have given of my travels, so I shall make no
more such. It is none of my business, nor any part of my
design; but to give an account of my own adventures through a
life of inimitable wanderings, and a long variety of changes,
which, perhaps, few that come after me will have heard the like
of: I shall, therefore, say very little of all the mighty places,
desert countries, and numerous people I have yet to pass through,
more than relates to my own story, and which my concern among
them will make necessary.</p>
<p>I was now, as near as I can compute, in the heart of China,
about thirty degrees north of the line, for we were returned from
Nankin. I had indeed a mind to see the city of Pekin, which
I had heard so much of, and Father Simon importuned me daily to
do it. At length his time of going away being set, and the
other missionary who was to go with him being arrived from Macao,
it was necessary that we should resolve either to go or not; so I
referred it to my partner, and left it wholly to his choice, who
at length resolved it in the affirmative, and we prepared for our
journey. We set out with very good advantage as to finding
the way; for we got leave to travel in the retinue of one of
their mandarins, a kind of viceroy or principal magistrate in the
province where they reside, and who take great state upon them,
travelling with great attendance, and great homage from the
people, who are sometimes greatly impoverished by them, being
obliged to furnish provisions for them and all their attendants
in their journeys. I particularly observed in our
travelling with his baggage, that though we received sufficient
provisions both for ourselves and our horses from the country, as
belonging to the mandarin, yet we were obliged to pay for
everything we had, after the market price of the country, and the
mandarin’s steward collected it duly from us. Thus
our travelling in the retinue of the mandarin, though it was a
great act of kindness, was not such a mighty favour to us, but
was a great advantage to him, considering there were above thirty
other people travelled in the same manner besides us, under the
protection of his retinue; for the country furnished all the
provisions for nothing to him, and yet he took our money for
them.</p>
<p>We were twenty-five days travelling to Pekin, through a
country exceeding populous, but I think badly cultivated; the
husbandry, the economy, and the way of living miserable, though
they boast so much of the industry of the people: I say
miserable, if compared with our own, but not so to these poor
wretches, who know no other. The pride of the poor people
is infinitely great, and exceeded by nothing but their poverty,
in some parts, which adds to that which I call their misery; and
I must needs think the savages of America live much more happy
than the poorer sort of these, because as they have nothing, so
they desire nothing; whereas these are proud and insolent and in
the main are in many parts mere beggars and drudges. Their
ostentation is inexpressible; and, if they can, they love to keep
multitudes of servants or slaves, which is to the last degree
ridiculous, as well as their contempt of all the world but
themselves.</p>
<p>I must confess I travelled more pleasantly afterwards in the
deserts and vast wildernesses of Grand Tartary than here, and yet
the roads here are well paved and well kept, and very convenient
for travellers; but nothing was more awkward to me than to see
such a haughty, imperious, insolent people, in the midst of the
grossest simplicity and ignorance; and my friend Father Simon and
I used to be very merry upon these occasions, to see their
beggarly pride. For example, coming by the house of a
country gentleman, as Father Simon called him, about ten leagues
off the city of Nankin, we had first of all the honour to ride
with the master of the house about two miles; the state he rode
in was a perfect Don Quixotism, being a mixture of pomp and
poverty. His habit was very proper for a merry-andrew,
being a dirty calico, with hanging sleeves, tassels, and cuts and
slashes almost on every side: it covered a taffety vest, so
greasy as to testify that his honour must be a most exquisite
sloven. His horse was a poor, starved, hobbling creature,
and two slaves followed him on foot to drive the poor creature
along; he had a whip in his hand, and he belaboured the beast as
fast about the head as his slaves did about the tail; and thus he
rode by us, with about ten or twelve servants, going from the
city to his country seat, about half a league before us. We
travelled on gently, but this figure of a gentleman rode away
before us; and as we stopped at a village about an hour to
refresh us, when we came by the country seat of this great man,
we saw him in a little place before his door, eating a
repast. It was a kind of garden, but he was easy to be
seen; and we were given to understand that the more we looked at
him the better he would be pleased. He sat under a tree,
something like the palmetto, which effectually shaded him over
the head, and on the south side; but under the tree was placed a
large umbrella, which made that part look well enough. He
sat lolling back in a great elbow-chair, being a heavy corpulent
man, and had his meat brought him by two women slaves. He
had two more, one of whom fed the squire with a spoon, and the
other held the dish with one hand, and scraped off what he let
fall upon his worship’s beard and taffety vest.</p>
<p>Leaving the poor wretch to please himself with our looking at
him, as if we admired his idle pomp, we pursued our
journey. Father Simon had the curiosity to stay to inform
himself what dainties the country justice had to feed on in all
his state, which he had the honour to taste of, and which was, I
think, a mess of boiled rice, with a great piece of garlic in it,
and a little bag filled with green pepper, and another plant
which they have there, something like our ginger, but smelling
like musk, and tasting like mustard; all this was put together,
and a small piece of lean mutton boiled in it, and this was his
worship’s repast. Four or five servants more attended
at a distance, who we supposed were to eat of the same after
their master. As for our mandarin with whom we travelled,
he was respected as a king, surrounded always with his gentlemen,
and attended in all his appearances with such pomp, that I saw
little of him but at a distance. I observed that there was
not a horse in his retinue but that our carrier’s
packhorses in England seemed to me to look much better; though it
was hard to judge rightly, for they were so covered with
equipage, mantles, trappings, &c., that we could scarce see
anything but their feet and their heads as they went along.</p>
<p>I was now light-hearted, and all my late trouble and
perplexity being over, I had no anxious thoughts about me, which
made this journey the pleasanter to me; in which no ill accident
attended me, only in passing or fording a small river, my horse
fell and made me free of the country, as they call it—that
is to say, threw me in. The place was not deep, but it
wetted me all over. I mention it because it spoiled my
pocket-book, wherein I had set down the names of several people
and places which I had occasion to remember, and which not taking
due care of, the leaves rotted, and the words were never after to
be read.</p>
<p>At length we arrived at Pekin. I had nobody with me but
the youth whom my nephew had given me to attend me as a servant
and who proved very trusty and diligent; and my partner had
nobody with him but one servant, who was a kinsman. As for
the Portuguese pilot, he being desirous to see the court, we bore
his charges for his company, and for our use of him as an
interpreter, for he understood the language of the country, and
spoke good French and a little English. Indeed, this old
man was most useful to us everywhere; for we had not been above a
week at Pekin, when he came laughing. “Ah, Seignior
Inglese,” says he, “I have something to tell will
make your heart glad.”—“My heart glad,”
says I; “what can that be? I don’t know
anything in this country can either give me joy or grief to any
great degree.”—“Yes, yes,” said the old
man, in broken English, “make you glad, me
sorry.”—“Why,” said I, “will it
make you sorry?”—“Because,” said he,
“you have brought me here twenty-five days’ journey,
and will leave me to go back alone; and which way shall I get to
my port afterwards, without a ship, without a horse, without
<i>pecune</i>?” so he called money, being his broken Latin,
of which he had abundance to make us merry with. In short,
he told us there was a great caravan of Muscovite and Polish
merchants in the city, preparing to set out on their journey by
land to Muscovy, within four or five weeks; and he was sure we
would take the opportunity to go with them, and leave him behind,
to go back alone.</p>
<p>I confess I was greatly surprised with this good news, and had
scarce power to speak to him for some time; but at last I said to
him, “How do you know this? are you sure it is
true?”—“Yes,” says he; “I met this
morning in the street an old acquaintance of mine, an Armenian,
who is among them. He came last from Astrakhan, and was
designed to go to Tonquin, where I formerly knew him, but has
altered his mind, and is now resolved to go with the caravan to
Moscow, and so down the river Volga to
Astrakhan.”—“Well, Seignior,” says I,
“do not be uneasy about being left to go back alone; if
this be a method for my return to England, it shall be your fault
if you go back to Macao at all.” We then went to
consult together what was to be done; and I asked my partner what
he thought of the pilot’s news, and whether it would suit
with his affairs? He told me he would do just as I would;
for he had settled all his affairs so well at Bengal, and left
his effects in such good hands, that as we had made a good
voyage, if he could invest it in China silks, wrought and raw, he
would be content to go to England, and then make a voyage back to
Bengal by the Company’s ships.</p>
<p>Having resolved upon this, we agreed that if our Portuguese
pilot would go with us, we would bear his charges to Moscow, or
to England, if he pleased; nor, indeed, were we to be esteemed
over-generous in that either, if we had not rewarded him further,
the service he had done us being really worth more than that; for
he had not only been a pilot to us at sea, but he had been like a
broker for us on shore; and his procuring for us a Japan merchant
was some hundreds of pounds in our pockets. So, being
willing to gratify him, which was but doing him justice, and very
willing also to have him with us besides, for he was a most
necessary man on all occasions, we agreed to give him a quantity
of coined gold, which, as I computed it, was worth one hundred
and seventy-five pounds sterling, between us, and to bear all his
charges, both for himself and horse, except only a horse to carry
his goods. Having settled this between ourselves, we called
him to let him know what we had resolved. I told him he had
complained of our being willing to let him go back alone, and I
was now about to tell him we designed he should not go back at
all. That as we had resolved to go to Europe with the
caravan, we were very willing he should go with us; and that we
called him to know his mind. He shook his head and said it
was a long journey, and that he had no <i>pecune</i> to carry him
thither, or to subsist himself when he came there. We told
him we believed it was so, and therefore we had resolved to do
something for him that should let him see how sensible we were of
the service he had done us, and also how agreeable he was to us:
and then I told him what we had resolved to give him here, which
he might lay out as we would do our own; and that as for his
charges, if he would go with us we would set him safe on shore
(life and casualties excepted), either in Muscovy or England, as
he would choose, at our own charge, except only the carriage of
his goods. He received the proposal like a man transported,
and told us he would go with us over all the whole world; and so
we all prepared for our journey. However, as it was with
us, so it was with the other merchants: they had many things to
do, and instead of being ready in five weeks, it was four months
and some days before all things were got together.</p>
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