<h2>CHAPTER XIV—ATTACKED BY TARTARS</h2>
<p>It was the beginning of February, new style, when we set out
from Pekin. My partner and the old pilot had gone express
back to the port where we had first put in, to dispose of some
goods which we had left there; and I, with a Chinese merchant
whom I had some knowledge of at Nankin, and who came to Pekin on
his own affairs, went to Nankin, where I bought ninety pieces of
fine damasks, with about two hundred pieces of other very fine
silk of several sorts, some mixed with gold, and had all these
brought to Pekin against my partner’s return. Besides
this, we bought a large quantity of raw silk, and some other
goods, our cargo amounting, in these goods only, to about three
thousand five hundred pounds sterling; which, together with tea
and some fine calicoes, and three camels’ loads of nutmegs
and cloves, loaded in all eighteen camels for our share, besides
those we rode upon; these, with two or three spare horses, and
two horses loaded with provisions, made together twenty-six
camels and horses in our retinue.</p>
<p>The company was very great, and, as near as I can remember,
made between three and four hundred horses, and upwards of one
hundred and twenty men, very well armed and provided for all
events; for as the Eastern caravans are subject to be attacked by
the Arabs, so are these by the Tartars. The company
consisted of people of several nations, but there were above
sixty of them merchants or inhabitants of Moscow, though of them
some were Livonians; and to our particular satisfaction, five of
them were Scots, who appeared also to be men of great experience
in business, and of very good substance.</p>
<p>When we had travelled one day’s journey, the guides, who
were five in number, called all the passengers, except the
servants, to a great council, as they called it. At this
council every one deposited a certain quantity of money to a
common stock, for the necessary expense of buying forage on the
way, where it was not otherwise to be had, and for satisfying the
guides, getting horses, and the like. Here, too, they
constituted the journey, as they call it, viz. they named
captains and officers to draw us all up, and give the word of
command, in case of an attack, and give every one their turn of
command; nor was this forming us into order any more than what we
afterwards found needful on the way.</p>
<p>The road all on this side of the country is very populous, and
is full of potters and earth-makers—that is to say, people,
that temper the earth for the China ware. As I was coming
along, our Portuguese pilot, who had always something or other to
say to make us merry, told me he would show me the greatest
rarity in all the country, and that I should have this to say of
China, after all the ill-humoured things that I had said of it,
that I had seen one thing which was not to be seen in all the
world beside. I was very importunate to know what it was;
at last he told me it was a gentleman’s house built with
China ware. “Well,” says I, “are not the
materials of their buildings the products of their own country,
and so it is all China ware, is it not?”—“No,
no,” says he, “I mean it is a house all made of China
ware, such as you call it in England, or as it is called in our
country, porcelain.”—“Well,” says I,
“such a thing may be; how big is it? Can we carry it
in a box upon a camel? If we can we will buy
it.”—“Upon a camel!” says the old pilot,
holding up both his hands; “why, there is a family of
thirty people lives in it.”</p>
<p>I was then curious, indeed, to see it; and when I came to it,
it was nothing but this: it was a timber house, or a house built,
as we call it in England, with lath and plaster, but all this
plastering was really China ware—that is to say, it was
plastered with the earth that makes China ware. The
outside, which the sun shone hot upon, was glazed, and looked
very well, perfectly white, and painted with blue figures, as the
large China ware in England is painted, and hard as if it had
been burnt. As to the inside, all the walls, instead of
wainscot, were lined with hardened and painted tiles, like the
little square tiles we call galley-tiles in England, all made of
the finest china, and the figures exceeding fine indeed, with
extraordinary variety of colours, mixed with gold, many tiles
making but one figure, but joined so artificially, the mortar
being made of the same earth, that it was very hard to see where
the tiles met. The floors of the rooms were of the same
composition, and as hard as the earthen floors we have in use in
several parts of England; as hard as stone, and smooth, but not
burnt and painted, except some smaller rooms, like closets, which
were all, as it were, paved with the same tile; the ceiling and
all the plastering work in the whole house were of the same
earth; and, after all, the roof was covered with tiles of the
same, but of a deep shining black. This was a China
warehouse indeed, truly and literally to be called so, and had I
not been upon the journey, I could have stayed some days to see
and examine the particulars of it. They told me there were
fountains and fishponds in the garden, all paved on the bottom
and sides with the same; and fine statues set up in rows on the
walks, entirely formed of the porcelain earth, burnt whole.</p>
<p>As this is one of the singularities of China, so they may be
allowed to excel in it; but I am very sure they excel in their
accounts of it; for they told me such incredible things of their
performance in crockery-ware, for such it is, that I care not to
relate, as knowing it could not be true. They told me, in
particular, of one workman that made a ship with all its tackle
and masts and sails in earthenware, big enough to carry fifty
men. If they had told me he launched it, and made a voyage
to Japan in it, I might have said something to it indeed; but as
it was, I knew the whole of the story, which was, in short, that
the fellow lied: so I smiled, and said nothing to it. This
odd sight kept me two hours behind the caravan, for which the
leader of it for the day fined me about the value of three
shillings; and told me if it had been three days’ journey
without the wall, as it was three days’ within, he must
have fined me four times as much, and made me ask pardon the next
council-day. I promised to be more orderly; and, indeed, I
found afterwards the orders made for keeping all together were
absolutely necessary for our common safety.</p>
<p>In two days more we passed the great China wall, made for a
fortification against the Tartars: and a very great work it is,
going over hills and mountains in an endless track, where the
rocks are impassable, and the precipices such as no enemy could
possibly enter, or indeed climb up, or where, if they did, no
wall could hinder them. They tell us its length is near a
thousand English miles, but that the country is five hundred in a
straight measured line, which the wall bounds without measuring
the windings and turnings it takes; it is about four fathoms
high, and as many thick in some places.</p>
<p>I stood still an hour or thereabouts without trespassing on
our orders (for so long the caravan was in passing the gate), to
look at it on every side, near and far off; I mean what was
within my view: and the guide, who had been extolling it for the
wonder of the world, was mighty eager to hear my opinion of
it. I told him it was a most excellent thing to keep out
the Tartars; which he happened not to understand as I meant it
and so took it for a compliment; but the old pilot laughed!
“Oh, Seignior Inglese,” says he, “you speak in
colours.”—“In colours!” said I;
“what do you mean by that?”—“Why, you
speak what looks white this way and black that way—gay one
way and dull another. You tell him it is a good wall to
keep out Tartars; you tell me by that it is good for nothing but
to keep out Tartars. I understand you, Seignior Inglese, I
understand you; but Seignior Chinese understood you his own
way.”—“Well,” says I, “do you think
it would stand out an army of our country people, with a good
train of artillery; or our engineers, with two companies of
miners? Would not they batter it down in ten days, that an
army might enter in battalia; or blow it up in the air,
foundation and all, that there should be no sign of it
left?”—“Ay, ay,” says he, “I know
that.” The Chinese wanted mightily to know what I
said to the pilot, and I gave him leave to tell him a few days
after, for we were then almost out of their country, and he was
to leave us a little time after this; but when he knew what I
said, he was dumb all the rest of the way, and we heard no more
of his fine story of the Chinese power and greatness while he
stayed.</p>
<p>After we passed this mighty nothing, called a wall, something
like the Picts’ walls so famous in Northumberland, built by
the Romans, we began to find the country thinly inhabited, and
the people rather confined to live in fortified towns, as being
subject to the inroads and depredations of the Tartars, who rob
in great armies, and therefore are not to be resisted by the
naked inhabitants of an open country. And here I began to
find the necessity of keeping together in a caravan as we
travelled, for we saw several troops of Tartars roving about; but
when I came to see them distinctly, I wondered more that the
Chinese empire could be conquered by such contemptible fellows;
for they are a mere horde of wild fellows, keeping no order and
understanding no discipline or manner of it. Their horses
are poor lean creatures, taught nothing, and fit for nothing; and
this we found the first day we saw them, which was after we
entered the wilder part of the country. Our leader for the
day gave leave for about sixteen of us to go a hunting as they
call it; and what was this but a hunting of sheep!—however,
it may be called hunting too, for these creatures are the wildest
and swiftest of foot that ever I saw of their kind! only they
will not run a great way, and you are sure of sport when you
begin the chase, for they appear generally thirty or forty in a
flock, and, like true sheep, always keep together when they
fly.</p>
<p>In pursuit of this odd sort of game it was our hap to meet
with about forty Tartars: whether they were hunting mutton, as we
were, or whether they looked for another kind of prey, we know
not; but as soon as they saw us, one of them blew a hideous blast
on a kind of horn. This was to call their friends about
them, and in less than ten minutes a troop of forty or fifty more
appeared, at about a mile distance; but our work was over first,
as it happened.</p>
<p>One of the Scots merchants of Moscow happened to be amongst
us; and as soon as he heard the horn, he told us that we had
nothing to do but to charge them without loss of time; and
drawing us up in a line, he asked if we were resolved. We
told him we were ready to follow him; so he rode directly towards
them. They stood gazing at us like a mere crowd, drawn up
in no sort of order at all; but as soon as they saw us advance,
they let fly their arrows, which missed us, very happily.
Not that they mistook their aim, but their distance; for their
arrows all fell a little short of us, but with so true an aim,
that had we been about twenty yards nearer we must have had
several men wounded, if not killed.</p>
<p>Immediately we halted, and though it was at a great distance,
we fired, and sent them leaden bullets for wooden arrows,
following our shot full gallop, to fall in among them sword in
hand—for so our bold Scot that led us directed. He
was, indeed, but a merchant, but he behaved with such vigour and
bravery on this occasion, and yet with such cool courage too,
that I never saw any man in action fitter for command. As
soon as we came up to them we fired our pistols in their faces
and then drew; but they fled in the greatest confusion
imaginable. The only stand any of them made was on our
right, where three of them stood, and, by signs, called the rest
to come back to them, having a kind of scimitar in their hands,
and their bows hanging to their backs. Our brave commander,
without asking anybody to follow him, gallops up close to them,
and with his fusee knocks one of them off his horse, killed the
second with his pistol, and the third ran away. Thus ended
our fight; but we had this misfortune attending it, that all our
mutton we had in chase got away. We had not a man killed or
hurt; as for the Tartars, there were about five of them
killed—how many were wounded we knew not; but this we knew,
that the other party were so frightened with the noise of our
guns that they fled, and never made any attempt upon us.</p>
<p>We were all this while in the Chinese dominions, and therefore
the Tartars were not so bold as afterwards; but in about five
days we entered a vast wild desert, which held us three
days’ and nights’ march; and we were obliged to carry
our water with us in great leathern bottles, and to encamp all
night, just as I have heard they do in the desert of
Arabia. I asked our guides whose dominion this was in, and
they told me this was a kind of border that might be called no
man’s land, being a part of Great Karakathy, or Grand
Tartary: that, however, it was all reckoned as belonging to
China, but that there was no care taken here to preserve it from
the inroads of thieves, and therefore it was reckoned the worst
desert in the whole march, though we were to go over some much
larger.</p>
<p>In passing this frightful wilderness we saw, two or three
times, little parties of the Tartars, but they seemed to be upon
their own affairs, and to have no design upon us; and so, like
the man who met the devil, if they had nothing to say to us, we
had nothing to say to them: we let them go. Once, however,
a party of them came so near as to stand and gaze at us.
Whether it was to consider if they should attack us or not, we
knew not; but when we had passed at some distance by them, we
made a rear-guard of forty men, and stood ready for them, letting
the caravan pass half a mile or thereabouts before us.
After a while they marched off, but they saluted us with five
arrows at their parting, which wounded a horse so that it
disabled him, and we left him the next day, poor creature, in
great need of a good farrier. We saw no more arrows or
Tartars that time.</p>
<p>We travelled near a month after this, the ways not being so
good as at first, though still in the dominions of the Emperor of
China, but lay for the most part in the villages, some of which
were fortified, because of the incursions of the Tartars.
When we were come to one of these towns (about two days and a
half’s journey before we came to the city of Naum), I
wanted to buy a camel, of which there are plenty to be sold all
the way upon that road, and horses also, such as they are,
because, so many caravans coming that way, they are often
wanted. The person that I spoke to to get me a camel would
have gone and fetched one for me; but I, like a fool, must be
officious, and go myself along with him; the place was about two
miles out of the village, where it seems they kept the camels and
horses feeding under a guard.</p>
<p>I walked it on foot, with my old pilot and a Chinese, being
very desirous of a little variety. When we came to the
place it was a low, marshy ground, walled round with stones,
piled up dry, without mortar or earth among them, like a park,
with a little guard of Chinese soldiers at the door. Having
bought a camel, and agreed for the price, I came away, and the
Chinese that went with me led the camel, when on a sudden came up
five Tartars on horseback. Two of them seized the fellow
and took the camel from him, while the other three stepped up to
me and my old pilot, seeing us, as it were, unarmed, for I had no
weapon about me but my sword, which could but ill defend me
against three horsemen. The first that came up stopped
short upon my drawing my sword, for they are arrant cowards; but
a second, coming upon my left, gave me a blow on the head, which
I never felt till afterwards, and wondered, when I came to
myself, what was the matter, and where I was, for he laid me flat
on the ground; but my never-failing old pilot, the Portuguese,
had a pistol in his pocket, which I knew nothing of, nor the
Tartars either: if they had, I suppose they would not have
attacked us, for cowards are always boldest when there is no
danger. The old man seeing me down, with a bold heart
stepped up to the fellow that had struck me, and laying hold of
his arm with one hand, and pulling him down by main force a
little towards him, with the other shot him into the head, and
laid him dead upon the spot. He then immediately stepped up
to him who had stopped us, as I said, and before he could come
forward again, made a blow at him with a scimitar, which he
always wore, but missing the man, struck his horse in the side of
his head, cut one of the ears off by the root, and a great slice
down by the side of his face. The poor beast, enraged with
the wound, was no more to be governed by his rider, though the
fellow sat well enough too, but away he flew, and carried him
quite out of the pilot’s reach; and at some distance,
rising upon his hind legs, threw down the Tartar, and fell upon
him.</p>
<p>In this interval the poor Chinese came in who had lost the
camel, but he had no weapon; however, seeing the Tartar down, and
his horse fallen upon him, away he runs to him, and seizing upon
an ugly weapon he had by his side, something like a pole-axe, he
wrenched it from him, and made shift to knock his Tartarian
brains out with it. But my old man had the third Tartar to
deal with still; and seeing he did not fly, as he expected, nor
come on to fight him, as he apprehended, but stood stock still,
the old man stood still too, and fell to work with his tackle to
charge his pistol again: but as soon as the Tartar saw the pistol
away he scoured, and left my pilot, my champion I called him
afterwards, a complete victory.</p>
<p>By this time I was a little recovered. I thought, when I
first began to wake, that I had been in a sweet sleep; but, as I
said above, I wondered where I was, how I came upon the ground,
and what was the matter. A few moments after, as sense
returned, I felt pain, though I did not know where; so I clapped
my hand to my head, and took it away bloody; then I felt my head
ache: and in a moment memory returned, and everything was present
to me again. I jumped upon my feet instantly, and got hold
of my sword, but no enemies were in view: I found a Tartar lying
dead, and his horse standing very quietly by him; and, looking
further, I saw my deliverer, who had been to see what the Chinese
had done, coming back with his hanger in his hand. The old
man, seeing me on my feet, came running to me, and joyfully
embraced me, being afraid before that I had been killed.
Seeing me bloody, he would see how I was hurt; but it was not
much, only what we call a broken head; neither did I afterwards
find any great inconvenience from the blow, for it was well again
in two or three days.</p>
<p>We made no great gain, however, by this victory, for we lost a
camel and gained a horse. I paid for the lost camel, and
sent for another; but I did not go to fetch it myself: I had had
enough of that.</p>
<p>The city of Naum, which we were approaching, is a frontier of
the Chinese empire, and is fortified in their fashion. We
wanted, as I have said, above two days’ journey of this
city when messengers were sent express to every part of the road
to tell all travellers and caravans to halt till they had a guard
sent for them; for that an unusual body of Tartars, making ten
thousand in all, had appeared in the way, about thirty miles
beyond the city.</p>
<p>This was very bad news to travellers: however, it was
carefully done of the governor, and we were very glad to hear we
should have a guard. Accordingly, two days after, we had
two hundred soldiers sent us from a garrison of the Chinese on
our left, and three hundred more from the city of Naum, and with
these we advanced boldly. The three hundred soldiers from
Naum marched in our front, the two hundred in our rear, and our
men on each side of our camels, with our baggage and the whole
caravan in the centre; in this order, and well prepared for
battle, we thought ourselves a match for the whole ten thousand
Mogul Tartars, if they had appeared; but the next day, when they
did appear, it was quite another thing.</p>
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