<h2>CHAPTER XV—DESCRIPTION OF AN IDOL, WHICH THEY DESTROY</h2>
<p>Early in the morning, when marching from a little town called
Changu, we had a river to pass, which we were obliged to ferry;
and, had the Tartars had any intelligence, then had been the time
to have attacked us, when the caravan being over, the rear-guard
was behind; but they did not appear there. About three
hours after, when we were entered upon a desert of about fifteen
or sixteen miles over, we knew by a cloud of dust they raised,
that the enemy was at hand, and presently they came on upon the
spur.</p>
<p>Our Chinese guards in the front, who had talked so big the day
before, began to stagger; and the soldiers frequently looked
behind them, a certain sign in a soldier that he is just ready to
run away. My old pilot was of my mind; and being near me,
called out, “Seignior Inglese, these fellows must be
encouraged, or they will ruin us all; for if the Tartars come on
they will never stand it.”—“If am of your
mind,” said I; “but what must be
done?”—“Done?” says he, “let fifty
of our men advance, and flank them on each wing, and encourage
them. They will fight like brave fellows in brave company;
but without this they will every man turn his back.”
Immediately I rode up to our leader and told him, who was exactly
of our mind; accordingly, fifty of us marched to the right wing,
and fifty to the left, and the rest made a line of rescue; and so
we marched, leaving the last two hundred men to make a body of
themselves, and to guard the camels; only that, if need were,
they should send a hundred men to assist the last fifty.</p>
<p>At last the Tartars came on, and an innumerable company they
were; how many we could not tell, but ten thousand, we thought,
at the least. A party of them came on first, and viewed our
posture, traversing the ground in the front of our line; and, as
we found them within gunshot, our leader ordered the two wings to
advance swiftly, and give them a salvo on each wing with their
shot, which was done. They then went off, I suppose to give
an account of the reception they were like to meet with; indeed,
that salute cloyed their stomachs, for they immediately halted,
stood a while to consider of it, and wheeling off to the left,
they gave over their design for that time, which was very
agreeable to our circumstances.</p>
<p>Two days after we came to the city of Naun, or Naum; we
thanked the governor for his care of us, and collected to the
value of a hundred crowns, or thereabouts, which we gave to the
soldiers sent to guard us; and here we rested one day. This
is a garrison indeed, and there were nine hundred soldiers kept
here; but the reason of it was, that formerly the Muscovite
frontiers lay nearer to them than they now do, the Muscovites
having abandoned that part of the country, which lies from this
city west for about two hundred miles, as desolate and unfit for
use; and more especially being so very remote, and so difficult
to send troops thither for its defence; for we were yet above two
thousand miles from Muscovy properly so called. After this
we passed several great rivers, and two dreadful deserts; one of
which we were sixteen days passing over; and on the 13th of April
we came to the frontiers of the Muscovite dominions. I
think the first town or fortress, whichever it may he called,
that belonged to the Czar, was called Arguna, being on the west
side of the river Arguna.</p>
<p>I could not but feel great satisfaction that I was arrived in
a country governed by Christians; for though the Muscovites do,
in my opinion, but just deserve the name of Christians, yet such
they pretend to be, and are very devout in their way. It
would certainly occur to any reflecting man who travels the world
as I have done, what a blessing it is to be brought into the
world where the name of God and a Redeemer is known, adored, and
worshipped; and not where the people, given up to strong
delusions, worship the devil, and prostrate themselves to
monsters, elements, horrid-shaped animals, and monstrous
images. Not a town or city we passed through but had their
pagodas, their idols, and their temples, and ignorant people
worshipping even the works of their own hands. Now we came
where, at least, a face of the Christian worship appeared; where
the knee was bowed to Jesus: and whether ignorantly or not, yet
the Christian religion was owned, and the name of the true God
was called upon and adored; and it made my soul rejoice to see
it. I saluted the brave Scots merchant with my first
acknowledgment of this; and taking him by the hand, I said to
him, “Blessed be God, we are once again amongst
Christians.” He smiled, and answered, “Do not
rejoice too soon, countryman; these Muscovites are but an odd
sort of Christians; and but for the name of it you may see very
little of the substance for some months further of our
journey.”—“Well,” says I, “but
still it is better than paganism, and worshipping of
devils.”—“Why, I will tell you,” says he;
“except the Russian soldiers in the garrisons, and a few of
the inhabitants of the cities upon the road, all the rest of this
country, for above a thousand miles farther, is inhabited by the
worst and most ignorant of pagans.” And so, indeed,
we found it.</p>
<p>We now launched into the greatest piece of solid earth that is
to be found in any part of the world; we had, at least, twelve
thousand miles to the sea eastward; two thousand to the bottom of
the Baltic Sea westward; and above three thousand, if we left
that sea, and went on west, to the British and French channels:
we had full five thousand miles to the Indian or Persian Sea
south; and about eight hundred to the Frozen Sea north.</p>
<p>We advanced from the river Arguna by easy and moderate
journeys, and were very visibly obliged to the care the Czar has
taken to have cities and towns built in as many places as it is
possible to place them, where his soldiers keep garrison,
something like the stationary soldiers placed by the Romans in
the remotest countries of their empire; some of which I had read
of were placed in Britain, for the security of commerce, and for
the lodging of travellers. Thus it was here; for wherever
we came, though at these towns and stations the garrisons and
governors were Russians, and professed Christians, yet the
inhabitants were mere pagans, sacrificing to idols, and
worshipping the sun, moon, and stars, or all the host of heaven;
and not only so, but were, of all the heathens and pagans that
ever I met with, the most barbarous, except only that they did
not eat men’s flesh.</p>
<p>Some instances of this we met with in the country between
Arguna, where we enter the Muscovite dominions, and a city of
Tartars and Russians together, called Nortziousky, in which is a
continued desert or forest, which cost us twenty days to travel
over. In a village near the last of these places I had the
curiosity to go and see their way of living, which is most
brutish and unsufferable. They had, I suppose, a great
sacrifice that day; for there stood out, upon an old stump of a
tree, a diabolical kind of idol made of wood; it was dressed up,
too, in the most filthy manner; its upper garment was of
sheepskins, with the wool outward; a great Tartar bonnet on the
head, with two horns growing through it; it was about eight feet
high, yet had no feet or legs, nor any other proportion of
parts.</p>
<p>This scarecrow was set up at the outer side of the village;
and when I came near to it there were sixteen or seventeen
creatures all lying flat upon the ground round this hideous block
of wood; I saw no motion among them, any more than if they had
been all logs, like the idol, and at first I really thought they
had been so; but, when I came a little nearer, they started up
upon their feet, and raised a howl, as if it had been so many
deep-mouthed hounds, and walked away, as if they were displeased
at our disturbing them. A little way off from the idol, and
at the door of a hut, made of sheep and cow skins dried, stood
three men with long knives in their hands; and in the middle of
the tent appeared three sheep killed, and one young
bullock. These, it seems, were sacrifices to that senseless
log of an idol; the three men were priests belonging to it, and
the seventeen prostrated wretches were the people who brought the
offering, and were offering their prayers to that stock.</p>
<p>I confess I was more moved at their stupidity and brutish
worship of a hobgoblin than ever I was at anything in my life,
and, overcome with rage, I rode up to the hideous idol, and with
my sword made a stroke at the bonnet that was on its head, and
cut it in two; and one of our men that was with me, taking hold
of the sheepskin that covered it, pulled at it, when, behold, a
most hideous outcry ran through the village, and two or three
hundred people came about my ears, so that I was glad to scour
for it, for some had bows and arrows; but I resolved from that
moment to visit them again. Our caravan rested three nights
at the town, which was about four miles off, in order to provide
some horses which they wanted, several of the horses having been
lamed and jaded with the long march over the last desert; so we
had some leisure here to put my design in execution. I
communicated it to the Scots merchant, of whose courage I had
sufficient testimony; I told him what I had seen, and with what
indignation I had since thought that human nature could be so
degenerate; I told him if I could get but four or five men well
armed to go with me, I was resolved to go and destroy that vile,
abominable idol, and let them see that it had no power to help
itself, and consequently could not be an object of worship, or to
be prayed to, much less help them that offered sacrifices to
it.</p>
<p>He at first objected to my plan as useless, seeing that, owing
to the gross ignorance of the people, they could not be brought
to profit by the lesson I meant to teach them; and added that,
from his knowledge of the country and its customs, he feared we
should fall into great peril by giving offence to these brutal
idol worshippers. This somewhat stayed my purpose, but I
was still uneasy all that day to put my project in execution; and
that evening, meeting the Scots merchant in our walk about the
town, I again called upon him to aid me in it. When he
found me resolute he said that, on further thoughts, he could not
but applaud the design, and told me I should not go alone, but he
would go with me; but he would go first and bring a stout fellow,
one of his countrymen, to go also with us; “and one,”
said he, “as famous for his zeal as you can desire any one
to be against such devilish things as these.” So we
agreed to go, only we three and my man-servant, and resolved to
put it in execution the following night about midnight, with all
possible secrecy.</p>
<p>We thought it better to delay it till the next night, because
the caravan being to set forward in the morning, we suppose the
governor could not pretend to give them any satisfaction upon us
when we were out of his power. The Scots merchant, as
steady in his resolution for the enterprise as bold in executing,
brought me a Tartar’s robe or gown of sheepskins, and a
bonnet, with a bow and arrows, and had provided the same for
himself and his countryman, that the people, if they saw us,
should not determine who we were. All the first night we
spent in mixing up some combustible matter, with aqua vitae,
gunpowder, and such other materials as we could get; and having a
good quantity of tar in a little pot, about an hour after night
we set out upon our expedition.</p>
<p>We came to the place about eleven o’clock at night, and
found that the people had not the least suspicion of danger
attending their idol. The night was cloudy: yet the moon
gave us light enough to see that the idol stood just in the same
posture and place that it did before. The people seemed to
be all at their rest; only that in the great hut, where we saw
the three priests, we saw a light, and going up close to the
door, we heard people talking as if there were five or six of
them; we concluded, therefore, that if we set wildfire to the
idol, those men would come out immediately, and run up to the
place to rescue it from destruction; and what to do with them we
knew not. Once we thought of carrying it away, and setting
fire to it at a distance; but when we came to handle it, we found
it too bulky for our carriage, so we were at a loss again.
The second Scotsman was for setting fire to the hut, and knocking
the creatures that were there on the head when they came out; but
I could not join with that; I was against killing them, if it
were possible to avoid it. “Well, then,” said
the Scots merchant, “I will tell you what we will do: we
will try to make them prisoners, tie their hands, and make them
stand and see their idol destroyed.”</p>
<p>As it happened, we had twine or packthread enough about us,
which we used to tie our firelocks together with; so we resolved
to attack these people first, and with as little noise as we
could. The first thing we did, we knocked at the door, when
one of the priests coming to it, we immediately seized upon him,
stopped his mouth, and tied his hands behind him, and led him to
the idol, where we gagged him that he might not make a noise,
tied his feet also together, and left him on the ground.</p>
<p>Two of us then waited at the door, expecting that another
would come out to see what the matter was; but we waited so long
till the third man came back to us; and then nobody coming out,
we knocked again gently, and immediately out came two more, and
we served them just in the same manner, but were obliged to go
all with them, and lay them down by the idol some distance from
one another; when, going back, we found two more were come out of
the door, and a third stood behind them within the door. We
seized the two, and immediately tied them, when the third,
stepping back and crying out, my Scots merchant went in after
them, and taking out a composition we had made that would only
smoke and stink, he set fire to it, and threw it in among
them. By that time the other Scotsman and my man, taking
charge of the two men already bound, and tied together also by
the arm, led them away to the idol, and left them there, to see
if their idol would relieve them, making haste back to us.</p>
<p>When the fuze we had thrown in had filled the hut with so much
smoke that they were almost suffocated, we threw in a small
leather bag of another kind, which flamed like a candle, and,
following it in, we found there were but four people, who, as we
supposed, had been about some of their diabolical
sacrifices. They appeared, in short, frightened to death,
at least so as to sit trembling and stupid, and not able to speak
either, for the smoke.</p>
<p>We quickly took them from the hut, where the smoke soon drove
us out, bound them as we had done the other, and all without any
noise. Then we carried them all together to the idol; when
we came there, we fell to work with him. First, we daubed
him all over, and his robes also, with tar, and tallow mixed with
brimstone; then we stopped his eyes and ears and mouth full of
gunpowder, and wrapped up a great piece of wildfire in his
bonnet; then sticking all the combustibles we had brought with us
upon him, we looked about to see if we could find anything else
to help to burn him; when my Scotsman remembered that by the hut,
where the men were, there lay a heap of dry forage; away he and
the other Scotsman ran and fetched their arms full of that.
When we had done this, we took all our prisoners, and brought
them, having untied their feet and ungagged their mouths, and
made them stand up, and set them before their monstrous idol, and
then set fire to the whole.</p>
<p>We stayed by it a quarter of an hour or thereabouts, till the
powder in the eyes and mouth and ears of the idol blew up, and,
as we could perceive, had split altogether; and in a word, till
we saw it burned so that it would soon be quite consumed.
We then began to think of going away; but the Scotsman said,
“No, we must not go, for these poor deluded wretches will
all throw themselves into the fire, and burn themselves with the
idol.” So we resolved to stay till the forage has
burned down too, and then came away and left them. After
the feat was performed, we appeared in the morning among our
fellow-travellers, exceedingly busy in getting ready for our
journey; nor could any man suppose that we had been anywhere but
in our beds.</p>
<p>But the affair did not end so; the next day came a great
number of the country people to the town gates, and in a most
outrageous manner demanded satisfaction of the Russian governor
for the insulting their priests and burning their great Cham
Chi-Thaungu. The people of Nertsinkay were at first in a
great consternation, for they said the Tartars were already no
less than thirty thousand strong. The Russian governor sent
out messengers to appease them, assuring them that he knew
nothing of it, and that there had not a soul in his garrison been
abroad, so that it could not be from anybody there: but if they
could let him know who did it, they should be exemplarily
punished. They returned haughtily, that all the country
reverenced the great Cham Chi-Thaungu, who dwelt in the sun, and
no mortal would have dared to offer violence to his image but
some Christian miscreant; and they therefore resolved to denounce
war against him and all the Russians, who, they said, were
miscreants and Christians.</p>
<p>The governor, unwilling to make a breach, or to have any cause
of war alleged to be given by him, the Czar having strictly
charged him to treat the conquered country with gentleness, gave
them all the good words he could. At last he told them
there was a caravan gone towards Russia that morning, and perhaps
it was some of them who had done them this injury; and that if
they would be satisfied with that, he would send after them to
inquire into it. This seemed to appease them a little; and
accordingly the governor sent after us, and gave us a particular
account how the thing was; intimating withal, that if any in our
caravan had done it they should make their escape; but that
whether we had done it or no, we should make all the haste
forward that was possible: and that, in the meantime, he would
keep them in play as long as he could.</p>
<p>This was very friendly in the governor; however, when it came
to the caravan, there was nobody knew anything of the matter; and
as for us that were guilty, we were least of all suspected.
However, the captain of the caravan for the time took the hint
that the governor gave us, and we travelled two days and two
nights without any considerable stop, and then we lay at a
village called Plothus: nor did we make any long stop here, but
hastened on towards Jarawena, another Muscovite colony, and where
we expected we should be safe. But upon the second
day’s march from Plothus, by the clouds of dust behind us
at a great distance, it was plain we were pursued. We had
entered a vast desert, and had passed by a great lake called
Schanks Oser, when we perceived a large body of horse appear on
the other side of the lake, to the north, we travelling
west. We observed they went away west, as we did, but had
supposed we would have taken that side of the lake, whereas we
very happily took the south side; and in two days more they
disappeared again: for they, believing we were still before them,
pushed on till they came to the Udda, a very great river when it
passes farther north, but when we came to it we found it narrow
and fordable.</p>
<p>The third day they had either found their mistake, or had
intelligence of us, and came pouring in upon us towards
dusk. We had, to our great satisfaction, just pitched upon
a convenient place for our camp; for as we had just entered upon
a desert above five hundred miles over, where we had no towns to
lodge at, and, indeed, expected none but the city Jarawena, which
we had yet two days’ march to; the desert, however, had
some few woods in it on this side, and little rivers, which ran
all into the great river Udda; it was in a narrow strait, between
little but very thick woods, that we pitched our camp that night,
expecting to be attacked before morning. As it was usual
for the Mogul Tartars to go about in troops in that desert, so
the caravans always fortify themselves every night against them,
as against armies of robbers; and it was, therefore, no new thing
to be pursued. But we had this night a most advantageous
camp: for as we lay between two woods, with a little rivulet
running just before our front, we could not be surrounded, or
attacked any way but in our front or rear. We took care
also to make our front as strong as we could, by placing our
packs, with the camels and horses, all in a line, on the inside
of the river, and felling some trees in our rear.</p>
<p>In this posture we encamped for the night; but the enemy was
upon us before we had finished. They did not come on like
thieves, as we expected, but sent three messengers to us, to
demand the men to be delivered to them that had abused their
priests and burned their idol, that they might burn them with
fire; and upon this, they said, they would go away, and do us no
further harm, otherwise they would destroy us all. Our men
looked very blank at this message, and began to stare at one
another to see who looked with the most guilt in their faces; but
nobody was the word—nobody did it. The leader of the
caravan sent word he was well assured that it was not done by any
of our camp; that we were peaceful merchants, travelling on our
business; that we had done no harm to them or to any one else;
and that, therefore, they must look further for the enemies who
had injured them, for we were not the people; so they desired
them not to disturb us, for if they did we should defend
ourselves.</p>
<p>They were far from being satisfied with this for an answer:
and a great crowd of them came running down in the morning, by
break of day, to our camp; but seeing us so well posted, they
durst come no farther than the brook in our front, where they
stood in such number as to terrify us very much; indeed, some
spoke of ten thousand. Here they stood and looked at us a
while, and then, setting up a great howl, let fly a crowd of
arrows among us; but we were well enough sheltered under our
baggage, and I do not remember that one of us was hurt.</p>
<p>Some time after this we saw them move a little to our right,
and expected them on the rear: when a cunning fellow, a Cossack
of Jarawena, calling to the leader of the caravan, said to him,
“I will send all these people away to
Sibeilka.” This was a city four or five days’
journey at least to the right, and rather behind us. So he
takes his bow and arrows, and getting on horseback, he rides away
from our rear directly, as it were back to Nertsinskay; after
this he takes a great circuit about, and comes directly on the
army of the Tartars as if he had been sent express to tell them a
long story that the people who had burned the Cham Chi-Thaungu
were gone to Sibeilka, with a caravan of miscreants, as he called
them—that is to say, Christians; and that they had resolved
to burn the god Scal-Isar, belonging to the Tonguses. As
this fellow was himself a Tartar, and perfectly spoke their
language, he counterfeited so well that they all believed him,
and away they drove in a violent hurry to Sibeilka. In less
than three hours they were entirely out of our sight, and we
never heard any more of them, nor whether they went to Sibeilka
or no. So we passed away safely on to Jarawena, where there
was a Russian garrison, and there we rested five days.</p>
<p>From this city we had a frightful desert, which held us
twenty-three days’ march. We furnished ourselves with
some tents here, for the better accommodating ourselves in the
night; and the leader of the caravan procured sixteen waggons of
the country, for carrying our water or provisions, and these
carriages were our defence every night round our little camp; so
that had the Tartars appeared, unless they had been very numerous
indeed, they would not have been able to hurt us. We may
well be supposed to have wanted rest again after this long
journey; for in this desert we neither saw house nor tree, and
scarce a bush; though we saw abundance of the sable-hunters, who
are all Tartars of Mogul Tartary; of which this country is a
part; and they frequently attack small caravans, but we saw no
numbers of them together.</p>
<p>After we had passed this desert we came into a country pretty
well inhabited—that is to say, we found towns and castles,
settled by the Czar with garrisons of stationary soldiers, to
protect the caravans and defend the country against the Tartars,
who would otherwise make it very dangerous travelling; and his
czarish majesty has given such strict orders for the well
guarding the caravans, that, if there are any Tartars heard of in
the country, detachments of the garrison are always sent to see
the travellers safe from station to station. Thus the
governor of Adinskoy, whom I had an opportunity to make a visit
to, by means of the Scots merchant, who was acquainted with him,
offered us a guard of fifty men, if we thought there was any
danger, to the next station.</p>
<p>I thought, long before this, that as we came nearer to Europe
we should find the country better inhabited, and the people more
civilised; but I found myself mistaken in both: for we had yet
the nation of the Tonguses to pass through, where we saw the same
tokens of paganism and barbarity as before; only, as they were
conquered by the Muscovites, they were not so dangerous, but for
rudeness of manners and idolatry no people in the world ever went
beyond them. They are all clothed in skins of beasts, and
their houses are built of the same; you know not a man from a
woman, neither by the ruggedness of their countenances nor their
clothes; and in the winter, when the ground is covered with snow,
they live underground in vaults, which have cavities going from
one to another. If the Tartars had their Cham Chi-Thaungu
for a whole village or country, these had idols in every hut and
every cave. This country, I reckon, was, from the desert I
spoke of last, at least four hundred miles, half of it being
another desert, which took us up twelve days’ severe
travelling, without house or tree; and we were obliged again to
carry our own provisions, as well water as bread. After we
were out of this desert and had travelled two days, we came to
Janezay, a Muscovite city or station, on the great river Janezay,
which, they told us there, parted Europe from Asia.</p>
<p>All the country between the river Oby and the river Janezay is
as entirely pagan, and the people as barbarous, as the remotest
of the Tartars. I also found, which I observed to the
Muscovite governors whom I had an opportunity to converse with,
that the poor pagans are not much wiser, or nearer Christianity,
for being under the Muscovite government, which they acknowledged
was true enough—but that, as they said, was none of their
business; that if the Czar expected to convert his Siberian,
Tonguse, or Tartar subjects, it should be done by sending
clergymen among them, not soldiers; and they added, with more
sincerity than I expected, that it was not so much the concern of
their monarch to make the people Christians as to make them
subjects.</p>
<p>From this river to the Oby we crossed a wild uncultivated
country, barren of people and good management, otherwise it is in
itself a pleasant, fruitful, and agreeable country. What
inhabitants we found in it are all pagans, except such as are
sent among them from Russia; for this is the country—I mean
on both sides the river Oby—whither the Muscovite criminals
that are not put to death are banished, and from whence it is
next to impossible they should ever get away. I have
nothing material to say of my particular affairs till I came to
Tobolski, the capital city of Siberia, where I continued some
time on the following account.</p>
<p>We had now been almost seven months on our journey, and winter
began to come on apace; whereupon my partner and I called a
council about our particular affairs, in which we found it
proper, as we were bound for England, to consider how to dispose
of ourselves. They told us of sledges and reindeer to carry
us over the snow in the winter time, by which means, indeed, the
Russians travel more in winter than they can in summer, as in
these sledges they are able to run night and day: the snow, being
frozen, is one universal covering to nature, by which the hills,
vales, rivers, and lakes are all smooth and hard is a stone, and
they run upon the surface, without any regard to what is
underneath.</p>
<p>But I had no occasion to urge a winter journey of this
kind. I was bound to England, not to Moscow, and my route
lay two ways: either I must go on as the caravan went, till I
came to Jarislaw, and then go off west for Narva and the Gulf of
Finland, and so on to Dantzic, where I might possibly sell my
China cargo to good advantage; or I must leave the caravan at a
little town on the Dwina, from whence I had but six days by water
to Archangel, and from thence might be sure of shipping either to
England, Holland, or Hamburg.</p>
<p>Now, to go any one of these journeys in the winter would have
been preposterous; for as to Dantzic, the Baltic would have been
frozen up and I could not get passage; and to go by land in those
countries was far less safe than among the Mogul Tartars;
likewise, as to Archangel in October, all the ships would be gone
from thence, and even the merchants who dwell there in summer
retire south to Moscow in the winter, when the ships are gone; so
that I could have nothing but extremity of cold to encounter,
with a scarcity of provisions, and must lie in an empty town all
the winter. Therefore, upon the whole, I thought it much my
better way to let the caravan go, and make provision to winter
where I was, at Tobolski, in Siberia, in the latitude of about
sixty degrees, where I was sure of three things to wear out a
cold winter with, viz. plenty of provisions, such as the country
afforded, a warm house, with fuel enough, and excellent
company.</p>
<p>I was now in quite a different climate from my beloved island,
where I never felt cold, except when I had my ague; on the
contrary, I had much to do to bear any clothes on my back, and
never made any fire but without doors, which was necessary for
dressing my food, &c. Now I had three good vests, with
large robes or gowns over them, to hang down to the feet, and
button close to the wrists; and all these lined with furs, to
make them sufficiently warm. As to a warm house, I must
confess I greatly dislike our way in England of making fires in
every room of the house in open chimneys, which, when the fire is
out, always keeps the air in the room cold as the climate.
So I took an apartment in a good house in the town, and ordered a
chimney to be built like a furnace, in the centre of six several
rooms, like a stove; the funnel to carry the smoke went up one
way, the door to come at the fire went in another, and all the
rooms were kept equally warm, but no fire seen, just as they heat
baths in England. By this means we had always the same
climate in all the rooms, and an equal heat was preserved, and
yet we saw no fire, nor were ever incommoded with smoke.</p>
<p>The most wonderful thing of all was, that it should be
possible to meet with good company here, in a country so
barbarous as this—one of the most northerly parts of
Europe. But this being the country where the state
criminals of Muscovy, as I observed before, are all banished, the
city was full of Russian noblemen, gentlemen, soldiers, and
courtiers. Here was the famous Prince Galitzin, the old
German Robostiski, and several other persons of note, and some
ladies. By means of my Scotch merchant, whom, nevertheless,
I parted with here, I made an acquaintance with several of these
gentlemen; and from these, in the long winter nights in which I
stayed here, I received several very agreeable visits.</p>
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