<SPAN name="startofbook"></SPAN>
<h1>A Narrative of the Expedition to Botany Bay</h1>
<h4>by</h4>
<h2>Watkin Tench</h2>
<blockquote><SPAN href="#int">INTRODUCTION</SPAN></blockquote>
<ol>
<li><SPAN href="#1">From the Embarkation of the Convicts, to the
Departure of the Ships from England.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#2">From the Departure, to the Arrival of the Fleet
at Teneriffe.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#3">From the Fleet’s Arrival at Teneriffe, to
its Departure for Rio de Janeiro, in the Brazils.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#4">The Passage from Teneriffe to Rio de Janeiro, in
the Brazils.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#5">From the Arrival of the Fleet at Rio de Janeiro,
till its Departure for the Cape of Good Hope; with some Remarks
on the Brazils.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#6">The Passage from the Brazils to the Cape of Good
Hope; with an Account of the Transactions of the Fleet
there.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#7">The Passage from the Cape of Good Hope to Botany
Bay.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#8">From the Fleet’s Arrival at Botany Bay to
the Evacuation of it; and taking Possession of Port Jackson.
Interviews with the Natives; and an Account of the Country about
Botany Bay.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#9">The taking Possession of Port Jackson, with the
Disembarkation of the Marines and Convicts.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#10">The reading of the Commissions, and taking
Possession of the Settlement, in form. With an Account of the
Courts of Law, and Mode of administering Public Justice in this
Country.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#11">A Description of the Natives of New South
Wales, and our Transactions with them.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#12">The Departure of the French from Botany Bay;
and the Return of the ‘Supply’ from Norfolk Island;
with a Discovery made by Lieutenant Ball on his Passage to
it.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#13">Transactions at Port Jackson in the Months of
April and May.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#14">From the Beginning of June, to the Departure of
the Ships for Europe.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#15">The Face of the Country; its Productions,
Climate, &c.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#16">The Progress made in the Settlement; and the
Situation of Affairs at the Time of the Ship, which conveys this
Account, sailing for England.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#17">Some Thoughts on the Advantages which may arise
to the Mother Country from forming the Colony.</SPAN></li>
<li><SPAN href="#app">A list of the Civil and Military
Establishments in New South Wales</SPAN></li>
</ol>
<blockquote><SPAN href="#post">POSTSCRIPT</SPAN></blockquote>
<SPAN name="int"></SPAN>
<hr>
<h3>INTRODUCTION</h3>
<p>In offering this little tract to the public, it is equally the
writer's wish to conduce to their amusement and information.</p>
<p>The expedition on which he is engaged has excited much
curiosity, and given birth to many speculations, respecting the
consequences to arise from it. While men continue to think
freely, they will judge variously. Some have been sanguine enough
to foresee the most beneficial effects to the Parent State, from
the Colony we are endeavouring to establish; and some have not
been wanting to pronounce the scheme big with folly, impolicy,
and ruin. Which of these predictions will be completed, I leave
to the decision of the public. I cannot, however, dismiss the
subject without expressing a hope, that the candid and liberal of
each opinion, induced by the humane and benevolent intention in
which it originated, will unite in waiting the result of a fair
trial to an experiment, no less new in its design, than difficult
in its execution.</p>
<p>As this publication enters the world with the name of the
author, candour will, he trusts, induce its readers to believe,
that no consideration could weigh with him in an endeavour to
mislead them. Facts are related simply as they happened, and when
opinions are hazarded, they are such as, he hopes, patient
inquiry, and deliberate decision, will be found to have
authorised. For the most part he has spoken from actual
observation; and in those places where the relations of others
have been unavoidably adopted. He has been careful to search for
the truth, and repress that spirit of exaggeration which is
almost ever the effect of novelty on ignorance.</p>
<p>The nautical part of the work is comprized in as few pages as
possible. By the professional part of my readers this will be
deemed judicious; and the rest will not, I believe, be
dissatisfied at its brevity. I beg leave, however, to say of the
astronomical calculations, that they may be depended on with the
greatest degree of security, as they were communicated by an
officer, who was furnished with instruments, and commissioned by
the Board of Longitude, to make observations during the voyage,
and in the southern hemisphere.</p>
<p>An unpractised writer is generally anxious to bespeak public
attention, and to solicit public indulgence. Except on
professional subjects, military men are, perhaps, too fearful of
critical censure. For the present narrative no other apology is
attempted, than the intentions of its author, who has endeavoured
not only to satisfy present curiosity, but to point out to future
adventurers, the favourable, as well as adverse circumstances
which will attend their settling here. The candid, it is hoped,
will overlook the inaccuracies of this imperfect sketch, drawn
amidst the complicated duties of the service in which the Author
is engaged, and make due allowance for the want of opportunity of
gaining more extensive information.</p>
<p><em>Watkin Tench, Capt. of the Marines.</em></p>
<p><em>Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, New South Wales, 10 July,
1788.</em></p>
<SPAN name="1"></SPAN>
<hr>
<h3>CHAPTER I</h3>
<h4>From the Embarkation of the Convicts, to the Departure of the
Ships from England.</h4>
<p>The marines and convicts having been previously embarked in
the River, at Portsmouth, and Plymouth, the whole fleet destined
for the expedition rendezvoused at the Mother Bank, on the 16th
of March 1787, and remained there until the 13th of May
following. In this period, excepting a slight appearance of
contagion in one of the transports, the ships were universally
healthy, and the prisoners in high spirits. Few complaints or
lamentations were to be heard among them, and an ardent wish for
the hour of departure seemed generally to prevail.</p>
<p>As the reputation, equally with the safety of the officers and
soldiers appointed to guard the convicts, consisted in
maintaining due subordination, an opportunity was taken,
immediately on their being embarked, to convince them, in the
most pointed terms, that any attempt on their side, either to
contest the command, or to force their escape, should be punished
with instant death; orders to this effect were given to the
centinels in their presence; happily, however, for all parties,
there occurred not any instance in which there was occasion to
have recourse to so desperate a measure; the behavior of the
convicts being in general humble, submissive, and regular: indeed
I should feel myself wanting in justice to those unfortunate men,
were I not to bear this public testimony of the sobriety and
decency of their conduct.</p>
<p>Unpleasant as a state of inactivity and delay for many weeks
appeared to us, it was not without its advantages; for by means
of it we were enabled to establish necessary regulations among
the convicts, and to adopt such a system of defence, as left us
little to Apprehend for our own security, in case a spirit of
madness and desperation had hurried them on to attempt our
destruction.</p>
<p>Among many other troublesome parts of duty which the service
we were engaged on required, the inspection of all letters
brought to, or sent from the ships, was not one of the least
tiresome and disagreeable. The number and contents of those in
the vessel I was embarked in, frequently surprised me very much;
they varied according to the dispositions of the writers: but
their constant language was, an apprehension of the
impracticability of returning home, the dread of a sickly
passage, and the fearful prospect of a distant and barbarous
country. But this apparent despondency proceeded in few instances
from sentiment. With too many it was, doubtless, an artifice to
awaken compassion, and call forth relief; the correspondence
invariably ending in a petition for money and tobacco. Perhaps a
want of the latter, which is considered a great luxury by its
admirers among the lower classes of life, might be the more
severely felt, from their being debarred in all cases whatever,
sickness excepted, the use of spirituous liquors.</p>
<p>It may be thought proper for me to mention, that during our
stay at the Mother Bank, the soldiers and convicts were
indiscriminately served with fresh beef. The former, in addition,
had the usual quantity of beer allowed in the navy, and were at
what is called full allowance of all species of provisions; the
latter, at two thirds only.</p>
<SPAN name="2"></SPAN>
<hr>
<h3>CHAPTER II.</h3>
<h4>From the Departure, to the Arrival of the Fleet at
Teneriffe.</h4>
<p>Governor Phillip having at length reached Portsmouth, and all
things deemed necessary for the expedition being put on board, at
daylight on the morning of the 13th, the signal to weigh anchor
was made in the Commanding Officer's ship the Sirius. Before six
o'clock the whole fleet were under sail; and, the weather being
fine and wind easterly, proceeded through the Needles with a
fresh leading breeze. In addition to our little armament, the
Hyena frigate was ordered to accompany us a certain distance to
the westward, by which means our number was increased to twelve
sail: His Majesty's ships 'Sirius', 'Hyena', and 'Supply', three
Victuallers with two years stores and provisions on board for the
Settlement, and six Transports, with troops and convicts. In the
transports were embarked four captains, twelve subalterns,
twenty-four serjeants and corporals, eight drummers, and one
hundred and sixty private marines, making the whole of the
military force, including the Major Commandant and Staff on board
the Sirius, to consist of two hundred and twelve persons, of whom
two hundred and ten were volunteers. The number of convicts was
five hundred and sixty-five men, one hundred and ninety-two
women, and eighteen children; the major part of the prisoners
were mechanics and husbandmen, selected on purpose by order of
Government.</p>
<p>By ten o'clock we had got clear of the Isle of Wight, at which
time, having very little pleasure in conversing with my own
thoughts, I strolled down among the convicts, to observe their
sentiments at this juncture. A very few excepted, their
countenances indicated a high degree of satisfaction, though in
some, the pang of being severed, perhaps for ever, from their
native land, could not be wholly suppressed; in general, marks of
distress were more perceptible among the men than the women; for
I recollect to have seen but one of those affected on the
occasion, "Some natural tears she dropp'd, but wip'd them soon."
After this the accent of sorrow was no longer heard; more genial
skies and change of scene banished repining and discontent, and
introduced in their stead cheerfulness and acquiescence in a lot,
now not to be altered.</p>
<p>To add to the good disposition which was beginning to manifest
itself, on the morning of the 20th, in consequence of some
favorable representations made by the officers commanding
detachments, they were hailed and told from the Sirius, that in
those cases where they judged it proper, they were at liberty to
release the convicts from the fetters in which they had been
hitherto confined. In complying with these directions, I had
great pleasure in being able to extend this humane order to the
whole of those under my charge, without a single exception. It is
hardly necessary for me to say, that the precaution of ironing
the convicts at any time reached to the men only.</p>
<p>In the evening of the same day, the Hyena left us for England,
which afforded an early opportunity of writing to our friends,
and easing their apprehensions by a communication of the
favourable accounts it was in our power to send them.</p>
<p>From this time to the day of our making the land, little
occurred worthy of remark. I cannot, however, help noticing the
propriety of employing the marines on a service which requires
activity and exertion at sea, in preference to other troops. Had
a regiment recruited since the war been sent out, sea-sickness
would have incapacitated half the men from performing the duties
immediately and indispensably necessary; whereas the marines,
from being accustomed to serve on board ship, accommodated
themselves with ease to every exigency, and surmounted every
difficulty.</p>
<p>At daybreak, on the morning of the 30th of May we saw the
rocks named the Deserters, which lie off the south-east end of
Madeira; and found the south-east extremity of the most southerly
of them, to be in the latitude of 32 deg 28 min north, longitude
16 deg 17 1/2 min west of Greenwich. The following day we saw the
Salvages, a cluster of rocks which are placed between the
Madeiras and Canary Islands, and determined the latitude of the
middle of the Great Salvage to be 30 deg 12 min north, and the
longitude of its eastern side to be 15 deg 39 min west. It is no
less extraordinary than unpardonable, that in some very modern
charts of the Atlantic, published in London, the Salvages are
totally omitted.</p>
<p>We made the island of Teneriffe on the 3d of June, and in the
evening anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, after an excellent
passage of three weeks from the day we left England.</p>
<SPAN name="3"></SPAN>
<hr>
<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3>
<h4>From the Fleet's Arrival at Teneriffe, to its Departure for
Rio de Janeiro, in the Brazils.</h4>
<p>There is little to please a traveller at Teneriffe. He has
heard wonders of its celebrated Peak, but he may remain for weeks
together at the town of Santa Cruz without having a glimpse of
it, and when its cloud-topped head emerges, the chance is, that
he feels disappointed, for, from the point of view in which he
sees it, the neighbouring mountains lessen its effect very
considerably. Excepting the Peak, the eye receives little
pleasure from the general face of the country, which is sterile
and uninviting to the last degree. The town, however, from its
cheerful white appearance, contrasted with the dreary brownness
of the back ground, makes not an unpleasing coup d'oeil. It is
neither irregular in its plan, nor despicable in its style of
building; and the churches and religious houses are numerous,
sumptuous, and highly ornamented.</p>
<p>The morning of our arrival, as many officers as could be
spared from the different ships were introduced to the Marquis de
Brancifort, Governor of the Canary Islands, whose reception was
highly flattering and polite. His Excellency is a Sicilian by
birth, and is most deservedly popular in his government. He
prefers residing at Teneriffe, for the conveniency of frequent
communication with Europe, to the Grand Canary, which is properly
the seat of power; and though not long fixed here, has already
found means to establish a manufactory in cotton, silk, and
thread, under excellent regulations, which employs more than
sixty persons, and is of infinite service to the common people.
During our short stay we had every day some fresh proof of his
Excellency's esteem and attention, and had the honour of dining
with him, in a style of equal elegance and splendor. At this
entertainment the profusion of ices which appeared in the desert
was surprising, considering that we were enjoying them under a
sun nearly vertical. But it seems the caverns of the Peak, very
far below its summit, afford, at all seasons, ice in
abundance.</p>
<p>The restless importunity of the beggars, and the immodesty of
the lowest class of women, are highly disgusting. From the number
of his countrymen to be found, an Englishman is at no loss for
society. In the mercantile houses established here, it is from
gentlemen of this description that any information is derived,
for the taciturnity of the Spaniards is not to be overcome in a
short acquaintance, especially by Englishmen, whose reserve falls
little short of their own. The inland country is described as
fertile, and highly romantic; and the environs of the small town
of Laguza mentioned as particularly pleasant. Some of our
officers who made an excursion to it confirmed the account
amply.</p>
<p>It should seem that the power of the Church, which has been so
long on the decline in Europe, is at length beginning to be
shaken in the colonies of the Catholic powers: some recent
instances which have taken place at Teneriffe, evince it very
fully. Were not a stranger, however, to be apprized of this, he
would hardly draw the conclusion from his own observations. The
Bishop of these islands, which conjunctively form a See, resides
on the Grand Canary. He is represented as a man in years, and of
a character as amiable as exalted, extremely beloved both by
foreigners and those of his own church. The bishopric is valued
at ten thousand pounds per annum; the government at somewhat less
than two.</p>
<p>In spite of every precaution, while we lay at anchor in the
road, a convict had the address, one night, to secrete himself on
the deck, when the rest were turned below; and after remaining
quiet for some hours, let himself down over the bow of the ship,
and floated to a boat that lay astern, into which he got, and
cutting her adrift, suffered himself to be carried away by the
current, until at a sufficient distance to be out of hearing,
when he rowed off. This elopement was not discovered till some
hours after, when a search being made, and boats sent to the
different parts of the island, he was discovered in a small cove,
to which he had fled for refuge. On being questioned, it appeared
he had endeavoured to get himself received on board a Dutch East
Indiaman in the road; but being rejected there, he resolved on
crossing over to the Grand Canary, which is at the distance of
ten leagues, and when detected, was recruiting his strength in
order to make the attempt. At the same time that the boats of the
fleet were sent on this pursuit, information was given to the
Spanish Governor of what had happened, who immediately detached
parties every way in order to apprehend the delinquent.</p>
<p>Having remained a week at Teneriffe, and in that time
completed our stock of water, and taken on board wine, &c.
early on the morning of the 10th of June we weighed anchor, and
stood out to sea with a light easterly breeze. The shortness of
our stay, and the consequent hurry, prevented our increasing much
any previous knowledge we might have had of the place. For the
information of those who may follow us on this service, it may
not, however, be amiss to state the little that will be found of
use to them.</p>
<p>The markets afford fresh meat, though it is neither plentiful
nor good. Fish is scarce; but poultry may be procured in almost
any quantity, at as cheap a rate as in the English sea-ports.
Vegetables do not abound, except pumpkins and onions, of which I
advise all ships to lay in a large stock. Milch goats are bought
for a trifle, and easily procured. Grapes cannot be scarce in
their season; but when we were here, except figs and excellent
mulberries, no fruit was to be procured. Dry wines, as the
merchants term them, are sold from ten to fifteen pounds a pipe;
for the latter price, the very best, called the London
Particular, may be bought: sweet wines are considerably dearer.
Brandy is also a cheap article. I would not advise the voyager to
depend on this place for either his hogs or sheep. And he will do
well to supply himself with dollars before he quits England, to
expend in the different ports he may happen to touch at. Should
he, however, have neglected this precaution, let him remember
when he discounts bills, or exchanges English money here, not to
receive his returns in quarter dollars, which will be tendered to
him, but altogether in whole ones, as he will find the latter
turn to better account than the former, both at Rio de Janeiro
and the Cape of Good Hope.</p>
<p>The latitude of the town of Santa Cruz is 28 deg 27 1/2 min
north, the longitude 16 deg 17 1/2 min west of Greenwich.</p>
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