<SPAN name="chap05"></SPAN>
<h3> CHAPTER FIVE </h3>
<h3> Various Doings in the West </h3>
<p>The <i>Tobermory</i> was no ship for passengers. Its decks were littered
with a hundred oddments, so that a man could barely walk a step without
tacking, and my bunk was simply a shelf in the frowsty little saloon,
where the odour of ham and eggs hung like a fog. I joined her at
Greenock and took a turn on deck with the captain after tea, when he
told me the names of the big blue hills to the north. He had a fine old
copper-coloured face and side-whiskers like an archbishop, and, having
spent all his days beating up the western seas, had as many yarns in
his head as Peter himself.</p>
<p>'On this boat,' he announced, 'we don't ken what a day may bring forth.
I may put into Colonsay for twa hours and bide there three days. I get
a telegram at Oban and the next thing I'm awa ayont Barra. Sheep's the
difficult business. They maun be fetched for the sales, and they're
dooms slow to lift. So ye see it's not what ye call a pleasure trip,
Maister Brand.'</p>
<p>Indeed it wasn't, for the confounded tub wallowed like a fat sow as
soon as we rounded a headland and got the weight of the south-western
wind. When asked my purpose, I explained that I was a colonial of Scots
extraction, who was paying his first visit to his fatherland and wanted
to explore the beauties of the West Highlands. I let him gather that I
was not rich in this world's goods.</p>
<p>'Ye'll have a passport?' he asked. 'They'll no let ye go north o' Fort
William without one.'</p>
<p>Amos had said nothing about passports, so I looked blank.</p>
<p>'I could keep ye on board for the whole voyage,' he went on, 'but ye
wouldna be permitted to land. If ye're seekin' enjoyment, it would be a
poor job sittin' on this deck and admirin' the works o' God and no
allowed to step on the pier-head. Ye should have applied to the
military gentlemen in Glesca. But ye've plenty o' time to make up your
mind afore we get to Oban. We've a heap o' calls to make Mull and Islay
way.'</p>
<p>The purser came up to inquire about my ticket, and greeted me with a
grin.</p>
<p>'Ye're acquaint with Mr Gresson, then?' said the captain. 'Weel, we're
a cheery wee ship's company, and that's the great thing on this kind o'
job.'</p>
<p>I made but a poor supper, for the wind had risen to half a gale, and I
saw hours of wretchedness approaching. The trouble with me is that I
cannot be honestly sick and get it over. Queasiness and headache beset
me and there is no refuge but bed. I turned into my bunk, leaving the
captain and the mate smoking shag not six feet from my head, and fell
into a restless sleep. When I woke the place was empty, and smelt
vilely of stale tobacco and cheese. My throbbing brows made sleep
impossible, and I tried to ease them by staggering upon deck. I saw a
clear windy sky, with every star as bright as a live coal, and a
heaving waste of dark waters running to ink-black hills. Then a douche
of spray caught me and sent me down the companion to my bunk again,
where I lay for hours trying to make a plan of campaign.</p>
<p>I argued that if Amos had wanted me to have a passport he would have
provided one, so I needn't bother my head about that. But it was my
business to keep alongside Gresson, and if the boat stayed a week in
some port and he went off ashore, I must follow him. Having no passport
I would have to be always dodging trouble, which would handicap my
movements and in all likelihood make me more conspicuous than I wanted.
I guessed that Amos had denied me the passport for the very reason that
he wanted Gresson to think me harmless. The area of danger would,
therefore, be the passport country, somewhere north of Fort William.</p>
<p>But to follow Gresson I must run risks and enter that country. His
suspicions, if he had any, would be lulled if I left the boat at Oban,
but it was up to me to follow overland to the north and hit the place
where the <i>Tobermory</i> made a long stay. The confounded tub had no
plans; she wandered about the West Highlands looking for sheep and
things; and the captain himself could give me no time-table of her
voyage. It was incredible that Gresson should take all this trouble if
he did not know that at some place—and the right place—he would have
time to get a spell ashore. But I could scarcely ask Gresson for that
information, though I determined to cast a wary fly over him. I knew
roughly the <i>Tobermory's</i> course—through the Sound of Islay to
Colonsay; then up the east side of Mull to Oban; then through the Sound
of Mull to the islands with names like cocktails, Rum and Eigg and
Coll; then to Skye; and then for the Outer Hebrides. I thought the last
would be the place, and it seemed madness to leave the boat, for the
Lord knew how I should get across the Minch. This consideration upset
all my plans again, and I fell into a troubled sleep without coming to
any conclusion.</p>
<p>Morning found us nosing between Jura and Islay, and about midday we
touched at a little port, where we unloaded some cargo and took on a
couple of shepherds who were going to Colonsay. The mellow afternoon
and the good smell of salt and heather got rid of the dregs of my
queasiness, and I spent a profitable hour on the pier-head with a
guide-book called <i>Baddely's Scotland</i>, and one of Bartholomew's maps.
I was beginning to think that Amos might be able to tell me something,
for a talk with the captain had suggested that the <i>Tobermory</i> would
not dally long in the neighbourhood of Rum and Eigg. The big droving
season was scarcely on yet, and sheep for the Oban market would be
lifted on the return journey. In that case Skye was the first place to
watch, and if I could get wind of any big cargo waiting there I would
be able to make a plan. Amos was somewhere near the Kyle, and that was
across the narrows from Skye. Looking at the map, it seemed to me that,
in spite of being passportless, I might be able somehow to make my way
up through Morvern and Arisaig to the latitude of Skye. The difficulty
would be to get across the strip of sea, but there must be boats to
beg, borrow or steal.</p>
<p>I was poring over Baddely when Gresson sat down beside me. He was in a
good temper, and disposed to talk, and to my surprise his talk was all
about the beauties of the countryside. There was a kind of apple-green
light over everything; the steep heather hills cut into the sky like
purple amethysts, while beyond the straits the western ocean stretched
its pale molten gold to the sunset. Gresson waxed lyrical over the
scene. 'This just about puts me right inside, Mr Brand. I've got to get
away from that little old town pretty frequent or I begin to moult like
a canary. A man feels a man when he gets to a place that smells as good
as this. Why in hell do we ever get messed up in those stone and lime
cages? I reckon some day I'll pull my freight for a clean location and
settle down there and make little poems. This place would about content
me. And there's a spot out in California in the Coast ranges that I've
been keeping my eye on,' The odd thing was that I believe he meant it.
His ugly face was lit up with a serious delight.</p>
<p>He told me he had taken this voyage before, so I got out Baddely and
asked for advice. 'I can't spend too much time on holidaying,' I told
him, 'and I want to see all the beauty spots. But the best of them seem
to be in the area that this fool British Government won't let you into
without a passport. I suppose I shall have to leave you at Oban.'</p>
<p>'Too bad,' he said sympathetically. 'Well, they tell me there's some
pretty sights round Oban.' And he thumbed the guide-book and began to
read about Glencoe.</p>
<p>I said that was not my purpose, and pitched him a yarn about Prince
Charlie and how my mother's great-grandfather had played some kind of
part in that show. I told him I wanted to see the place where the
Prince landed and where he left for France. 'So far as I can make out
that won't take me into the passport country, but I'll have to do a bit
of footslogging. Well, I'm used to padding the hoof. I must get the
captain to put me off in Morvern, and then I can foot it round the top
of Lochiel and get back to Oban through Appin. How's that for a holiday
trek?'</p>
<p>He gave the scheme his approval. 'But if it was me, Mr Brand, I would
have a shot at puzzling your gallant policemen. You and I don't take
much stock in Governments and their two-cent laws, and it would be a
good game to see just how far you could get into the forbidden land. A
man like you could put up a good bluff on those hayseeds. I don't mind
having a bet ...'</p>
<p>'No,' I said. 'I'm out for a rest, and not for sport. If there was
anything to be gained I'd undertake to bluff my way to the Orkney
Islands. But it's a wearing job and I've better things to think about.'</p>
<p>'So? Well, enjoy yourself your own way. I'll be sorry when you leave
us, for I owe you something for that rough-house, and beside there's
darned little company in the old moss-back captain.'</p>
<p>That evening Gresson and I swopped yarns after supper to the
accompaniment of the 'Ma Goad!' and 'Is't possible?' of captain and
mate. I went to bed after a glass or two of weak grog, and made up for
the last night's vigil by falling sound asleep. I had very little kit
with me, beyond what I stood up in and could carry in my waterproof
pockets, but on Amos's advice I had brought my little nickel-plated
revolver. This lived by day in my hip pocket, but at night I put it
behind my pillow. But when I woke next morning to find us casting
anchor in the bay below rough low hills, which I knew to be the island
of Colonsay, I could find no trace of the revolver. I searched every
inch of the bunk and only shook out feathers from the mouldy ticking. I
remembered perfectly putting the thing behind my head before I went to
sleep, and now it had vanished utterly. Of course I could not advertise
my loss, and I didn't greatly mind it, for this was not a job where I
could do much shooting. But it made me think a good deal about Mr
Gresson. He simply could not suspect me; if he had bagged my gun, as I
was pretty certain he had, it must be because he wanted it for himself
and not that he might disarm me. Every way I argued it I reached the
same conclusion. In Gresson's eyes I must seem as harmless as a child.</p>
<p>We spent the better part of a day at Colonsay, and Gresson, so far as
his duties allowed, stuck to me like a limpet. Before I went ashore I
wrote out a telegram for Amos. I devoted a hectic hour to the
<i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>, but I could not compose any kind of intelligible
message with reference to its text. We had all the same edition—the
one in the <i>Golden Treasury</i> series—so I could have made up a sort of
cipher by referring to lines and pages, but that would have taken up a
dozen telegraph forms and seemed to me too elaborate for the purpose.
So I sent this message:</p>
<P CLASS="letter">
<i>Ochterlony, Post Office, Kyle,<br/><br/>
I hope to spend part of holiday near you and to see you if boat's
programme permits. Are any good cargoes waiting in your
neighbourhood? Reply Post Office, Oban.</i></p>
<p>It was highly important that Gresson should not see this, but it was
the deuce of a business to shake him off. I went for a walk in the
afternoon along the shore and passed the telegraph office, but the
confounded fellow was with me all the time. My only chance was just
before we sailed, when he had to go on board to check some cargo. As
the telegraph office stood full in view of the ship's deck I did not go
near it. But in the back end of the clachan I found the schoolmaster,
and got him to promise to send the wire. I also bought off him a couple
of well-worn sevenpenny novels.</p>
<p>The result was that I delayed our departure for ten minutes and when I
came on board faced a wrathful Gresson. 'Where the hell have you been?'
he asked. 'The weather's blowing up dirty and the old man's mad to get
off. Didn't you get your legs stretched enough this afternoon?'</p>
<p>I explained humbly that I had been to the schoolmaster to get something
to read, and produced my dingy red volumes. At that his brow cleared. I
could see that his suspicions were set at rest.</p>
<p>We left Colonsay about six in the evening with the sky behind us
banking for a storm, and the hills of Jura to starboard an angry
purple. Colonsay was too low an island to be any kind of breakwater
against a western gale, so the weather was bad from the start. Our
course was north by east, and when we had passed the butt-end of the
island we nosed about in the trough of big seas, shipping tons of water
and rolling like a buffalo. I know as much about boats as about
Egyptian hieroglyphics, but even my landsman's eyes could tell that we
were in for a rough night. I was determined not to get queasy again,
but when I went below the smell of tripe and onions promised to be my
undoing; so I dined off a slab of chocolate and a cabin biscuit, put on
my waterproof, and resolved to stick it out on deck.</p>
<p>I took up position near the bows, where I was out of reach of the oily
steamer smells. It was as fresh as the top of a mountain, but mighty
cold and wet, for a gusty drizzle had set in, and I got the spindrift
of the big waves. There I balanced myself, as we lurched into the
twilight, hanging on with one hand to a rope which descended from the
stumpy mast. I noticed that there was only an indifferent rail between
me and the edge, but that interested me and helped to keep off
sickness. I swung to the movement of the vessel, and though I was
mortally cold it was rather pleasant than otherwise. My notion was to
get the nausea whipped out of me by the weather, and, when I was
properly tired, to go down and turn in.</p>
<p>I stood there till the dark had fallen. By that time I was an
automaton, the way a man gets on sentry-go, and I could have easily
hung on till morning. My thoughts ranged about the earth, beginning
with the business I had set out on, and presently—by way of
recollections of Blenkiron and Peter—reaching the German forest where,
in the Christmas of 1915, I had been nearly done in by fever and old
Stumm. I remembered the bitter cold of that wild race, and the way the
snow seemed to burn like fire when I stumbled and got my face into it.
I reflected that sea-sickness was kitten's play to a good bout of
malaria.</p>
<p>The weather was growing worse, and I was getting more than spindrift
from the seas. I hooked my arm round the rope, for my fingers were
numbing. Then I fell to dreaming again, principally about Fosse Manor
and Mary Lamington. This so ravished me that I was as good as asleep. I
was trying to reconstruct the picture as I had last seen her at
Biggleswick station ...</p>
<p>A heavy body collided with me and shook my arm from the rope. I
slithered across the yard of deck, engulfed in a whirl of water. One
foot caught a stanchion of the rail, and it gave with me, so that for
an instant I was more than half overboard. But my fingers clawed wildly
and caught in the links of what must have been the anchor chain. They
held, though a ton's weight seemed to be tugging at my feet ... Then
the old tub rolled back, the waters slipped off, and I was sprawling on
a wet deck with no breath in me and a gallon of brine in my windpipe.</p>
<p>I heard a voice cry out sharply, and a hand helped me to my feet. It
was Gresson, and he seemed excited.</p>
<p>'God, Mr Brand, that was a close call! I was coming up to find you,
when this damned ship took to lying on her side. I guess I must have
cannoned into you, and I was calling myself bad names when I saw you
rolling into the Atlantic. If I hadn't got a grip on the rope I would
have been down beside you. Say, you're not hurt? I reckon you'd better
come below and get a glass of rum under your belt. You're about as wet
as mother's dish-clouts.'</p>
<p>There's one advantage about campaigning. You take your luck when it
comes and don't worry about what might have been. I didn't think any
more of the business, except that it had cured me of wanting to be
sea-sick. I went down to the reeking cabin without one qualm in my
stomach, and ate a good meal of welsh-rabbit and bottled Bass, with a
tot of rum to follow up with. Then I shed my wet garments, and slept in
my bunk till we anchored off a village in Mull in a clear blue morning.</p>
<p>It took us four days to crawl up that coast and make Oban, for we
seemed to be a floating general store for every hamlet in those parts.
Gresson made himself very pleasant, as if he wanted to atone for nearly
doing me in. We played some poker, and I read the little books I had
got in Colonsay, and then rigged up a fishing-line, and caught saithe
and lythe and an occasional big haddock. But I found the time pass
slowly, and I was glad that about noon one day we came into a bay
blocked with islands and saw a clean little town sitting on the hills
and the smoke of a railway engine.</p>
<p>I went ashore and purchased a better brand of hat in a tweed store.
Then I made a bee-line for the post office, and asked for telegrams.
One was given to me, and as I opened it I saw Gresson at my elbow.</p>
<p>It read thus:</p>
<P CLASS="letter">
<i>Brand, Post office, Oban. Page 117, paragraph 3. Ochterlony.</i><br/></p>
<p>I passed it to Gresson with a rueful face.</p>
<p>'There's a piece of foolishness,' I said. 'I've got a cousin who's a
Presbyterian minister up in Ross-shire, and before I knew about this
passport humbug I wrote to him and offered to pay him a visit. I told
him to wire me here if it was convenient, and the old idiot has sent me
the wrong telegram. This was likely as not meant for some other brother
parson, who's got my message instead.'</p>
<p>'What's the guy's name?' Gresson asked curiously, peering at the
signature.</p>
<p>'Ochterlony. David Ochterlony. He's a great swell at writing books, but
he's no earthly use at handling the telegraph. However, it don't
signify, seeing I'm not going near him.' I crumpled up the pink form
and tossed it on the floor. Gresson and I walked to the <i>Tobermory</i>
together.</p>
<p>That afternoon, when I got a chance, I had out my <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>.
Page 117, paragraph 3, read:</p>
<P CLASS="block">
'<i>Then I saw in my dream, that a little off the road, over
against the Silver-mine, stood Demas (gentlemanlike) to call to
passengers to come and see: who said to Christian and his
fellow, Ho, turn aside hither and I will show you a thing.</i></p>
<p>At tea I led the talk to my own past life. I yarned about my
experiences as a mining engineer, and said I could never get out of the
trick of looking at country with the eye of the prospector. 'For
instance,' I said, 'if this had been Rhodesia, I would have said there
was a good chance of copper in these little kopjes above the town.
They're not unlike the hills round the Messina mine.' I told the
captain that after the war I was thinking of turning my attention to
the West Highlands and looking out for minerals.</p>
<p>'Ye'll make nothing of it,' said the captain. 'The costs are ower big,
even if ye found the minerals, for ye'd have to import a' your labour.
The West Hielandman is no fond o' hard work. Ye ken the psalm o' the
crofter?</p>
<p class="poem">
<i>O that the peats would cut themselves,<br/>
The fish chump on the shore,<br/>
And that I in my bed might lie<br/>
Henceforth for ever more!</i>'<br/></p>
<p>'Has it ever been tried?' I asked.</p>
<p>'Often. There's marble and slate quarries, and there was word o' coal
in Benbecula. And there's the iron mines at Ranna.'</p>
<p>'Where's that?' I asked.</p>
<p>'Up forenent Skye. We call in there, and generally bide a bit. There's
a heap of cargo for Ranna, and we usually get a good load back. But as
I tell ye, there's few Hielanders working there. Mostly Irish and lads
frae Fife and Falkirk way.'</p>
<p>I didn't pursue the subject, for I had found Demas's silver-mine. If
the <i>Tobermory</i> lay at Ranna for a week, Gresson would have time to do
his own private business. Ranna would not be the spot, for the island
was bare to the world in the middle of a much-frequented channel. But
Skye was just across the way, and when I looked in my map at its big,
wandering peninsulas I concluded that my guess had been right, and that
Skye was the place to make for.</p>
<p>That night I sat on deck with Gresson, and in a wonderful starry
silence we watched the lights die out of the houses in the town, and
talked of a thousand things. I noticed—what I had had a hint of
before—that my companion was no common man. There were moments when he
forgot himself and talked like an educated gentleman: then he would
remember, and relapse into the lingo of Leadville, Colorado. In my
character of the ingenuous inquirer I set him posers about politics and
economics, the kind of thing I might have been supposed to pick up from
unintelligent browsing among little books. Generally he answered with
some slangy catchword, but occasionally he was interested beyond his
discretion, and treated me to a harangue like an equal. I discovered
another thing, that he had a craze for poetry, and a capacious memory
for it. I forgot how we drifted into the subject, but I remember he
quoted some queer haunting stuff which he said was Swinburne, and
verses by people I had heard of from Letchford at Biggleswick. Then he
saw by my silence that he had gone too far, and fell back into the
jargon of the West. He wanted to know about my plans, and we went down
into the cabin and had a look at the map. I explained my route, up
Morvern and round the head of Lochiel, and back to Oban by the east
side of Loch Linnhe.</p>
<p>'Got you,' he said. 'You've a hell of a walk before you. That bug never
bit me, and I guess I'm not envying you any. And after that, Mr Brand?'</p>
<p>'Back to Glasgow to do some work for the cause,' I said lightly.</p>
<p>'Just so,' he said with a grin. 'It's a great life if you don't weaken.'</p>
<p>We steamed out of the bay next morning at dawn, and about nine o'clock
I got on shore at a little place called Lochaline. My kit was all on my
person, and my waterproof's pockets were stuffed with chocolates and
biscuits I had bought in Oban. The captain was discouraging. 'Ye'll get
your bellyful o' Hieland hills, Mr Brand, afore ye win round the loch
head. Ye'll be wishin' yerself back on the <i>Tobermory</i>.' But Gresson
speeded me joyfully on my way, and said he wished he were coming with
me. He even accompanied me the first hundred yards, and waved his hat
after me till I was round the turn of the road.</p>
<p>The first stage in that journey was pure delight. I was thankful to be
rid of the infernal boat, and the hot summer scents coming down the
glen were comforting after the cold, salt smell of the sea. The road
lay up the side of a small bay, at the top of which a big white house
stood among gardens. Presently I had left the coast and was in a glen
where a brown salmon-river swirled through acres of bog-myrtle. It had
its source in a loch, from which the mountain rose steeply—a place so
glassy in that August forenoon that every scar and wrinkle of the
hillside were faithfully reflected. After that I crossed a low pass to
the head of another sea-lock, and, following the map, struck over the
shoulder of a great hill and ate my luncheon far up on its side, with a
wonderful vista of wood and water below me.</p>
<p>All that morning I was very happy, not thinking about Gresson or Ivery,
but getting my mind clear in those wide spaces, and my lungs filled
with the brisk hill air. But I noticed one curious thing. On my last
visit to Scotland, when I covered more moorland miles a day than any
man since Claverhouse, I had been fascinated by the land, and had
pleased myself with plans for settling down in it. But now, after three
years of war and general rocketing, I felt less drawn to that kind of
landscape. I wanted something more green and peaceful and habitable,
and it was to the Cotswolds that my memory turned with longing.</p>
<p>I puzzled over this till I realized that in all my Cotswold pictures a
figure kept going and coming—a young girl with a cloud of gold hair
and the strong, slim grace of a boy, who had sung 'Cherry Ripe' in a
moonlit garden. Up on that hillside I understood very clearly that I,
who had been as careless of women as any monk, had fallen wildly in
love with a child of half my age. I was loath to admit it, though for
weeks the conclusion had been forcing itself on me. Not that I didn't
revel in my madness, but that it seemed too hopeless a business, and I
had no use for barren philandering. But, seated on a rock munching
chocolate and biscuits, I faced up to the fact and resolved to trust my
luck. After all we were comrades in a big job, and it was up to me to
be man enough to win her. The thought seemed to brace any courage that
was in me. No task seemed too hard with her approval to gain and her
companionship somewhere at the back of it. I sat for a long time in a
happy dream, remembering all the glimpses I had had of her, and humming
her song to an audience of one black-faced sheep.</p>
<p>On the highroad half a mile below me, I saw a figure on a bicycle
mounting the hill, and then getting off to mop its face at the summit.
I turned my Ziess glasses on to it, and observed that it was a country
policeman. It caught sight of me, stared for a bit, tucked its machine
into the side of the road, and then very slowly began to climb the
hillside. Once it stopped, waved its hand and shouted something which I
could not hear. I sat finishing my luncheon, till the features were
revealed to me of a fat oldish man, blowing like a grampus, his cap
well on the back of a bald head, and his trousers tied about the shins
with string.</p>
<p>There was a spring beside me and I had out my flask to round off my
meal.</p>
<p>'Have a drink,' I said.</p>
<p>His eye brightened, and a smile overran his moist face.</p>
<p>'Thank you, sir. It will be very warrm coming up the brae.'</p>
<p>'You oughtn't to,' I said. 'You really oughtn't, you know. Scorching up
hills and then doubling up a mountain are not good for your time of
life.'</p>
<p>He raised the cap of my flask in solemn salutation. 'Your very good
health.' Then he smacked his lips, and had several cupfuls of water
from the spring.</p>
<p>'You will haf come from Achranich way, maybe?' he said in his soft
sing-song, having at last found his breath.</p>
<p>'Just so. Fine weather for the birds, if there was anybody to shoot
them.'</p>
<p>'Ah, no. There will be few shots fired today, for there are no
gentlemen left in Morvern. But I wass asking you, if you come from
Achranich, if you haf seen anybody on the road.'</p>
<p>From his pocket he extricated a brown envelope and a bulky telegraph
form. 'Will you read it, sir, for I haf forgot my spectacles?'</p>
<p>It contained a description of one Brand, a South African and a
suspected character, whom the police were warned to stop and return to
Oban. The description wasn't bad, but it lacked any one good
distinctive detail. Clearly the policeman took me for an innocent
pedestrian, probably the guest of some moorland shooting-box, with my
brown face and rough tweeds and hobnailed shoes.</p>
<p>I frowned and puzzled a little. 'I did see a fellow about three miles
back on the hillside. There's a public-house just where the burn comes
in, and I think he was making for it. Maybe that was your man. This
wire says "South African"; and now I remember the fellow had the look
of a colonial.'</p>
<p>The policeman sighed. 'No doubt it will be the man. Perhaps he will haf
a pistol and will shoot.'</p>
<p>'Not him,' I laughed. 'He looked a mangy sort of chap, and he'll be
scared out of his senses at the sight of you. But take my advice and
get somebody with you before you tackle him. You're always the better
of a witness.'</p>
<p>'That is so,' he said, brightening. 'Ach, these are the bad times! in
old days there wass nothing to do but watch the doors at the
flower-shows and keep the yachts from poaching the sea-trout. But now
it is spies, spies, and "Donald, get out of your bed, and go off twenty
mile to find a German." I wass wishing the war wass by, and the Germans
all dead.'</p>
<p>'Hear, hear!' I cried, and on the strength of it gave him another dram.</p>
<p>I accompanied him to the road, and saw him mount his bicycle and
zig-zag like a snipe down the hill towards Achranich. Then I set off
briskly northward. It was clear that the faster I moved the better.</p>
<p>As I went I paid disgusted tribute to the efficiency of the Scottish
police. I wondered how on earth they had marked me down. Perhaps it was
the Glasgow meeting, or perhaps my association with Ivery at
Biggleswick. Anyhow there was somebody somewhere mighty quick at
compiling a <i>dossier</i>. Unless I wanted to be bundled back to Oban I
must make good speed to the Arisaig coast.</p>
<p>Presently the road fell to a gleaming sea-loch which lay like the blue
blade of a sword among the purple of the hills. At the head there was a
tiny clachan, nestled among birches and rowans, where a tawny burn
wound to the sea. When I entered the place it was about four o'clock in
the afternoon, and peace lay on it like a garment. In the wide, sunny
street there was no sign of life, and no sound except of hens clucking
and of bees busy among the roses. There was a little grey box of a
kirk, and close to the bridge a thatched cottage which bore the sign of
a post and telegraph office.</p>
<p>For the past hour I had been considering that I had better prepare for
mishaps. If the police of these parts had been warned they might prove
too much for me, and Gresson would be allowed to make his journey
unmatched. The only thing to do was to send a wire to Amos and leave
the matter in his hands. Whether that was possible or not depended upon
this remote postal authority.</p>
<p>I entered the little shop, and passed from bright sunshine to a
twilight smelling of paraffin and black-striped peppermint balls. An
old woman with a mutch sat in an arm-chair behind the counter. She
looked up at me over her spectacles and smiled, and I took to her on
the instant. She had the kind of old wise face that God loves.</p>
<p>Beside her I noticed a little pile of books, one of which was a Bible.
Open on her lap was a paper, the <i>United Free Church Monthly</i>. I
noticed these details greedily, for I had to make up my mind on the
part to play.</p>
<p>'It's a warm day, mistress,' I said, my voice falling into the broad
Lowland speech, for I had an instinct that she was not of the Highlands.</p>
<p>She laid aside her paper. 'It is that, sir. It is grand weather for the
hairst, but here that's no till the hinner end o' September, and at the
best it's a bit scart o' aits.'</p>
<p>'Ay. It's a different thing down Annandale way,' I said.</p>
<p>Her face lit up. 'Are ye from Dumfries, sir?'</p>
<p>'Not just from Dumfries, but I know the Borders fine.'</p>
<p>'Ye'll no beat them,' she cried. 'Not that this is no a guid place and
I've muckle to be thankfu' for since John Sanderson—that was ma
man—brought me here forty-seeven year syne come Martinmas. But the
aulder I get the mair I think o' the bit whaur I was born. It was twae
miles from Wamphray on the Lockerbie road, but they tell me the place
is noo just a rickle o' stanes.'</p>
<p>'I was wondering, mistress, if I could get a cup of tea in the village.'</p>
<p>'Ye'll hae a cup wi' me,' she said. 'It's no often we see onybody frae
the Borders hereaways. The kettle's just on the boil.'</p>
<p>She gave me tea and scones and butter, and black-currant jam, and
treacle biscuits that melted in the mouth. And as we ate we talked of
many things—chiefly of the war and of the wickedness of the world.</p>
<p>'There's nae lads left here,' she said. 'They a' joined the Camerons,
and the feck o' them fell at an awfu' place called Lowse. John and me
never had no boys, jist the one lassie that's married on Donald Frew,
the Strontian carrier. I used to vex mysel' about it, but now I thank
the Lord that in His mercy He spared me sorrow. But I wad hae liked to
have had one laddie fechtin' for his country. I whiles wish I was a
Catholic and could pit up prayers for the sodgers that are deid. It
maun be a great consolation.'</p>
<p>I whipped out the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i> from my pocket. 'That is the
grand book for a time like this.'</p>
<p>'Fine I ken it,' she said. 'I got it for a prize in the Sabbath School
when I was a lassie.'</p>
<p>I turned the pages. I read out a passage or two, and then I seemed
struck with a sudden memory.</p>
<p>'This is a telegraph office, mistress. Could I trouble you to send a
telegram? You see I've a cousin that's a minister in Ross-shire at the
Kyle, and him and me are great correspondents. He was writing about
something in the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i> and I think I'll send him a
telegram in answer.'</p>
<p>'A letter would be cheaper,' she said.</p>
<p>'Ay, but I'm on holiday and I've no time for writing.'</p>
<p>She gave me a form, and I wrote:</p>
<P CLASS="letter">
<i>Ochterlony. Post Office, Kyle.—Demas will be at his mine
within the week. Strive with him, lest I faint by the way.</i></p>
<p>'Ye're unco lavish wi' the words, sir,' was her only comment.</p>
<p>We parted with regret, and there was nearly a row when I tried to pay
for the tea. I was bidden remember her to one David Tudhole, farmer in
Nether Mirecleuch, the next time I passed by Wamphray.</p>
<p>The village was as quiet when I left it as when I had entered. I took
my way up the hill with an easier mind, for I had got off the telegram,
and I hoped I had covered my tracks. My friend the postmistress would,
if questioned, be unlikely to recognize any South African suspect in
the frank and homely traveller who had spoken with her of Annandale and
the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>.</p>
<p>The soft mulberry gloaming of the west coast was beginning to fall on
the hills. I hoped to put in a dozen miles before dark to the next
village on the map, where I might find quarters. But ere I had gone far
I heard the sound of a motor behind me, and a car slipped past bearing
three men. The driver favoured me with a sharp glance, and clapped on
the brakes. I noted that the two men in the tonneau were carrying
sporting rifles.</p>
<p>'Hi, you, sir,' he cried. 'Come here.' The two rifle-bearers—solemn
gillies—brought their weapons to attention.</p>
<p>'By God,' he said, 'it's the man. What's your name? Keep him covered,
Angus.'</p>
<p>The gillies duly covered me, and I did not like the look of their
wavering barrels. They were obviously as surprised as myself.</p>
<p>I had about half a second to make my plans. I advanced with a very
stiff air, and asked him what the devil he meant. No Lowland Scots for
me now. My tone was that of an adjutant of a Guards' battalion.</p>
<p>My inquisitor was a tall man in an ulster, with a green felt hat on his
small head. He had a lean, well-bred face, and very choleric blue eyes.
I set him down as a soldier, retired, Highland regiment or cavalry, old
style.</p>
<p>He produced a telegraph form, like the policeman.</p>
<p>'Middle height—strongly built—grey tweeds—brown hat—speaks with a
colonial accent—much sunburnt. What's your name, sir?'</p>
<p>I did not reply in a colonial accent, but with the hauteur of the
British officer when stopped by a French sentry. I asked him again what
the devil he had to do with my business. This made him angry and he
began to stammer.</p>
<p>'I'll teach you what I have to do with it. I'm a deputy-lieutenant of
this county, and I have Admiralty instructions to watch the coast. Damn
it, sir, I've a wire here from the Chief Constable describing you.
You're Brand, a very dangerous fellow, and we want to know what the
devil you're doing here.'</p>
<p>As I looked at his wrathful eye and lean head, which could not have
held much brains, I saw that I must change my tone. If I irritated him
he would get nasty and refuse to listen and hang me up for hours. So my
voice became respectful.</p>
<p>'I beg your pardon, sir, but I've not been accustomed to be pulled up
suddenly, and asked for my credentials. My name is Blaikie, Captain
Robert Blaikie, of the Scots Fusiliers. I'm home on three weeks' leave,
to get a little peace after Hooge. We were only hauled out five days
ago.' I hoped my old friend in the shell-shock hospital at Isham would
pardon my borrowing his identity.</p>
<p>The man looked puzzled. 'How the devil am I to be satisfied about that?
Have you any papers to prove it?'</p>
<p>'Why, no. I don't carry passports about with me on a walking tour. But
you can wire to the depot, or to my London address.'</p>
<p>He pulled at his yellow moustache. 'I'm hanged if I know what to do. I
want to get home for dinner. I tell you what, sir, I'll take you on
with me and put you up for the night. My boy's at home, convalescing,
and if he says you're pukka I'll ask your pardon and give you a dashed
good bottle of port. I'll trust him and I warn you he's a keen hand.'</p>
<p>There was nothing to do but consent, and I got in beside him with an
uneasy conscience. Supposing the son knew the real Blaikie! I asked the
name of the boy's battalion, and was told the 10th Seaforths. That
wasn't pleasant hearing, for they had been brigaded with us on the
Somme. But Colonel Broadbury—for he told me his name—volunteered
another piece of news which set my mind at rest. The boy was not yet
twenty, and had only been out seven months. At Arras he had got a bit
of shrapnel in his thigh, which had played the deuce with the sciatic
nerve, and he was still on crutches.</p>
<p>We spun over ridges of moorland, always keeping northward, and brought
up at a pleasant white-washed house close to the sea. Colonel Broadbury
ushered me into a hall where a small fire of peats was burning, and on
a couch beside it lay a slim, pale-faced young man. He had dropped his
policeman's manner, and behaved like a gentleman. 'Ted,' he said, 'I've
brought a friend home for the night. I went out to look for a suspect
and found a British officer. This is Captain Blaikie, of the Scots
Fusiliers.'</p>
<p>The boy looked at me pleasantly. 'I'm very glad to meet you, sir.
You'll excuse me not getting up, but I've got a game leg.' He was the
copy of his father in features, but dark and sallow where the other was
blond. He had just the same narrow head, and stubborn mouth, and
honest, quick-tempered eyes. It is the type that makes dashing
regimental officers, and earns V.C.s, and gets done in wholesale. I was
never that kind. I belonged to the school of the cunning cowards.</p>
<p>In the half-hour before dinner the last wisp of suspicion fled from my
host's mind. For Ted Broadbury and I were immediately deep in 'shop'. I
had met most of his senior officers, and I knew all about their doings
at Arras, for his brigade had been across the river on my left. We
fought the great fight over again, and yarned about technicalities and
slanged the Staff in the way young officers have, the father throwing
in questions that showed how mighty proud he was of his son. I had a
bath before dinner, and as he led me to the bathroom he apologized very
handsomely for his bad manners. 'Your coming's been a godsend for Ted.
He was moping a bit in this place. And, though I say it that shouldn't,
he's a dashed good boy.'</p>
<p>I had my promised bottle of port, and after dinner I took on the father
at billiards. Then we settled in the smoking-room, and I laid myself
out to entertain the pair. The result was that they would have me stay
a week, but I spoke of the shortness of my leave, and said I must get
on to the railway and then back to Fort William for my luggage.</p>
<p>So I spent that night between clean sheets, and ate a Christian
breakfast, and was given my host's car to set me a bit on the road. I
dismissed it after half a dozen miles, and, following the map, struck
over the hills to the west. About midday I topped a ridge, and beheld
the Sound of Sleat shining beneath me. There were other things in the
landscape. In the valley on the right a long goods train was crawling
on the Mallaig railway. And across the strip of sea, like some fortress
of the old gods, rose the dark bastions and turrets of the hills of
Skye.</p>
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