<p>This was indeed the Egypt of the Confederacy,—the rich granary whence
potatoes and corn and cotton poured out to the famished and ragged
Confederate troops as they battled for a cause lost long before 1861.
Sheltered and secure, it became the place of refuge for families,
wealth, and slaves. Yet even then the hard ruthless rape of the land
began to tell. The red-clay sub-soil already had begun to peer above
the loam. The harder the slaves were driven the more careless and
fatal was their farming. Then came the revolution of war and
Emancipation, the bewilderment of Reconstruction,—and now, what is the
Egypt of the Confederacy, and what meaning has it for the nation's weal
or woe?</p>
<p>It is a land of rapid contrasts and of curiously mingled hope and pain.
Here sits a pretty blue-eyed quadroon hiding her bare feet; she was
married only last week, and yonder in the field is her dark young
husband, hoeing to support her, at thirty cents a day without board.
Across the way is Gatesby, brown and tall, lord of two thousand acres
shrewdly won and held. There is a store conducted by his black son, a
blacksmith shop, and a ginnery. Five miles below here is a town owned
and controlled by one white New Englander. He owns almost a Rhode
Island county, with thousands of acres and hundreds of black laborers.
Their cabins look better than most, and the farm, with machinery and
fertilizers, is much more business-like than any in the county,
although the manager drives hard bargains in wages. When now we turn
and look five miles above, there on the edge of town are five houses of
prostitutes,—two of blacks and three of whites; and in one of the
houses of the whites a worthless black boy was harbored too openly two
years ago; so he was hanged for rape. And here, too, is the high
whitewashed fence of the "stockade," as the county prison is called;
the white folks say it is ever full of black criminals,—the black
folks say that only colored boys are sent to jail, and they not because
they are guilty, but because the State needs criminals to eke out its
income by their forced labor.</p>
<p>Immigrants are heirs of the slave baron in Dougherty; and as we ride
westward, by wide stretching cornfields and stubby orchards of peach
and pear, we see on all sides within the circle of dark forest a Land
of Canaan. Here and there are tales of projects for money-getting,
born in the swift days of Reconstruction,—"improvement" companies,
wine companies, mills and factories; most failed, and foreigners fell
heir. It is a beautiful land, this Dougherty, west of the Flint. The
forests are wonderful, the solemn pines have disappeared, and this is
the "Oakey Woods," with its wealth of hickories, beeches, oaks and
palmettos. But a pall of debt hangs over the beautiful land; the
merchants are in debt to the wholesalers, the planters are in debt to
the merchants, the tenants owe the planters, and laborers bow and bend
beneath the burden of it all. Here and there a man has raised his head
above these murky waters. We passed one fenced stock-farm with grass
and grazing cattle, that looked very home-like after endless corn and
cotton. Here and there are black free-holders: there is the gaunt
dull-black Jackson, with his hundred acres. "I says, 'Look up! If you
don't look up you can't get up,'" remarks Jackson, philosophically.
And he's gotten up. Dark Carter's neat barns would do credit to New
England. His master helped him to get a start, but when the black man
died last fall the master's sons immediately laid claim to the estate.
"And them white folks will get it, too," said my yellow gossip.</p>
<p>I turn from these well-tended acres with a comfortable feeling that the
Negro is rising. Even then, however, the fields, as we proceed, begin
to redden and the trees disappear. Rows of old cabins appear filled
with renters and laborers,—cheerless, bare, and dirty, for the most
part, although here and there the very age and decay makes the scene
picturesque. A young black fellow greets us. He is twenty-two, and
just married. Until last year he had good luck renting; then cotton
fell, and the sheriff seized and sold all he had. So he moved here,
where the rent is higher, the land poorer, and the owner inflexible; he
rents a forty-dollar mule for twenty dollars a year. Poor lad!—a
slave at twenty-two. This plantation, owned now by a foreigner, was a
part of the famous Bolton estate. After the war it was for many years
worked by gangs of Negro convicts,—and black convicts then were even
more plentiful than now; it was a way of making Negroes work, and the
question of guilt was a minor one. Hard tales of cruelty and
mistreatment of the chained freemen are told, but the county
authorities were deaf until the free-labor market was nearly ruined by
wholesale migration. Then they took the convicts from the plantations,
but not until one of the fairest regions of the "Oakey Woods" had been
ruined and ravished into a red waste, out of which only a Yankee or an
immigrant could squeeze more blood from debt-cursed tenants.</p>
<p>No wonder that Luke Black, slow, dull, and discouraged, shuffles to our
carriage and talks hopelessly. Why should he strive? Every year finds
him deeper in debt. How strange that Georgia, the world-heralded
refuge of poor debtors, should bind her own to sloth and misfortune as
ruthlessly as ever England did! The poor land groans with its
birth-pains, and brings forth scarcely a hundred pounds of cotton to
the acre, where fifty years ago it yielded eight times as much. Of his
meagre yield the tenant pays from a quarter to a third in rent, and
most of the rest in interest on food and supplies bought on credit.
Twenty years yonder sunken-cheeked, old black man has labored under
that system, and now, turned day-laborer, is supporting his wife and
boarding himself on his wages of a dollar and a half a week, received
only part of the year.</p>
<p>The Bolton convict farm formerly included the neighboring plantation.
Here it was that the convicts were lodged in the great log prison still
standing. A dismal place it still remains, with rows of ugly huts
filled with surly ignorant tenants. "What rent do you pay here?" I
inquired. "I don't know,—what is it, Sam?" "All we make," answered
Sam. It is a depressing place,—bare, unshaded, with no charm of past
association, only a memory of forced human toil,—now, then, and before
the war. They are not happy, these black men whom we meet throughout
this region. There is little of the joyous abandon and playfulness
which we are wont to associate with the plantation Negro. At best, the
natural good-nature is edged with complaint or has changed into
sullenness and gloom. And now and then it blazes forth in veiled but
hot anger. I remember one big red-eyed black whom we met by the
roadside. Forty-five years he had labored on this farm, beginning with
nothing, and still having nothing. To be sure, he had given four
children a common-school training, and perhaps if the new fence-law had
not allowed unfenced crops in West Dougherty he might have raised a
little stock and kept ahead. As it is, he is hopelessly in debt,
disappointed, and embittered. He stopped us to inquire after the black
boy in Albany, whom it was said a policeman had shot and killed for
loud talking on the sidewalk. And then he said slowly: "Let a white
man touch me, and he dies; I don't boast this,—I don't say it around
loud, or before the children,—but I mean it. I've seen them whip my
father and my old mother in them cotton-rows till the blood ran; by—"
and we passed on.</p>
<p>Now Sears, whom we met next lolling under the chubby oak-trees, was of
quite different fibre. Happy?—Well, yes; he laughed and flipped
pebbles, and thought the world was as it was. He had worked here
twelve years and has nothing but a mortgaged mule. Children? Yes,
seven; but they hadn't been to school this year,—couldn't afford books
and clothes, and couldn't spare their work. There go part of them to
the fields now,—three big boys astride mules, and a strapping girl
with bare brown legs. Careless ignorance and laziness here, fierce
hate and vindictiveness there;—these are the extremes of the Negro
problem which we met that day, and we scarce knew which we preferred.</p>
<p>Here and there we meet distinct characters quite out of the ordinary.
One came out of a piece of newly cleared ground, making a wide detour
to avoid the snakes. He was an old, hollow-cheeked man, with a drawn
and characterful brown face. He had a sort of self-contained
quaintness and rough humor impossible to describe; a certain cynical
earnestness that puzzled one. "The niggers were jealous of me over on
the other place," he said, "and so me and the old woman begged this
piece of woods, and I cleared it up myself. Made nothing for two
years, but I reckon I've got a crop now." The cotton looked tall and
rich, and we praised it. He curtsied low, and then bowed almost to the
ground, with an imperturbable gravity that seemed almost suspicious.
Then he continued, "My mule died last week,"—a calamity in this land
equal to a devastating fire in town,—"but a white man loaned me
another." Then he added, eyeing us, "Oh, I gets along with white
folks." We turned the conversation. "Bears? deer?" he answered,
"well, I should say there were," and he let fly a string of brave
oaths, as he told hunting-tales of the swamp. We left him standing
still in the middle of the road looking after us, and yet apparently
not noticing us.</p>
<p>The Whistle place, which includes his bit of land, was bought soon
after the war by an English syndicate, the "Dixie Cotton and Corn
Company." A marvellous deal of style their factor put on, with his
servants and coach-and-six; so much so that the concern soon landed in
inextricable bankruptcy. Nobody lives in the old house now, but a man
comes each winter out of the North and collects his high rents. I know
not which are the more touching,—such old empty houses, or the homes
of the masters' sons. Sad and bitter tales lie hidden back of those
white doors,—tales of poverty, of struggle, of disappointment. A
revolution such as that of '63 is a terrible thing; they that rose rich
in the morning often slept in paupers' beds. Beggars and vulgar
speculators rose to rule over them, and their children went astray.
See yonder sad-colored house, with its cabins and fences and glad
crops! It is not glad within; last month the prodigal son of the
struggling father wrote home from the city for money. Money! Where
was it to come from? And so the son rose in the night and killed his
baby, and killed his wife, and shot himself dead. And the world passed
on.</p>
<p>I remember wheeling around a bend in the road beside a graceful bit of
forest and a singing brook. A long low house faced us, with porch and
flying pillars, great oaken door, and a broad lawn shining in the
evening sun. But the window-panes were gone, the pillars were
worm-eaten, and the moss-grown roof was falling in. Half curiously I
peered through the unhinged door, and saw where, on the wall across the
hall, was written in once gay letters a faded "Welcome."</p>
<p>Quite a contrast to the southwestern part of Dougherty County is the
northwest. Soberly timbered in oak and pine, it has none of that
half-tropical luxuriance of the southwest. Then, too, there are fewer
signs of a romantic past, and more of systematic modern land-grabbing
and money-getting. White people are more in evidence here, and farmer
and hired labor replace to some extent the absentee landlord and
rack-rented tenant. The crops have neither the luxuriance of the
richer land nor the signs of neglect so often seen, and there were
fences and meadows here and there. Most of this land was poor, and
beneath the notice of the slave-baron, before the war. Since then his
poor relations and foreign immigrants have seized it. The returns of
the farmer are too small to allow much for wages, and yet he will not
sell off small farms. There is the Negro Sanford; he has worked
fourteen years as overseer on the Ladson place, and "paid out enough
for fertilizers to have bought a farm," but the owner will not sell off
a few acres.</p>
<p>Two children—a boy and a girl—are hoeing sturdily in the fields on
the farm where Corliss works. He is smooth-faced and brown, and is
fencing up his pigs. He used to run a successful cotton-gin, but the
Cotton Seed Oil Trust has forced the price of ginning so low that he
says it hardly pays him. He points out a stately old house over the
way as the home of "Pa Willis." We eagerly ride over, for "Pa Willis"
was the tall and powerful black Moses who led the Negroes for a
generation, and led them well. He was a Baptist preacher, and when he
died, two thousand black people followed him to the grave; and now they
preach his funeral sermon each year. His widow lives here,—a
weazened, sharp-featured little woman, who curtsied quaintly as we
greeted her. Further on lives Jack Delson, the most prosperous Negro
farmer in the county. It is a joy to meet him,—a great
broad-shouldered, handsome black man, intelligent and jovial. Six
hundred and fifty acres he owns, and has eleven black tenants. A neat
and tidy home nestled in a flower-garden, and a little store stands
beside it.</p>
<p>We pass the Munson place, where a plucky white widow is renting and
struggling; and the eleven hundred acres of the Sennet plantation, with
its Negro overseer. Then the character of the farms begins to change.
Nearly all the lands belong to Russian Jews; the overseers are white,
and the cabins are bare board-houses scattered here and there. The
rents are high, and day-laborers and "contract" hands abound. It is a
keen, hard struggle for living here, and few have time to talk. Tired
with the long ride, we gladly drive into Gillonsville. It is a silent
cluster of farmhouses standing on the crossroads, with one of its
stores closed and the other kept by a Negro preacher. They tell great
tales of busy times at Gillonsville before all the railroads came to
Albany; now it is chiefly a memory. Riding down the street, we stop at
the preacher's and seat ourselves before the door. It was one of those
scenes one cannot soon forget:—a wide, low, little house, whose
motherly roof reached over and sheltered a snug little porch. There we
sat, after the long hot drive, drinking cool water,—the talkative
little storekeeper who is my daily companion; the silent old black
woman patching pantaloons and saying never a word; the ragged picture
of helpless misfortune who called in just to see the preacher; and
finally the neat matronly preacher's wife, plump, yellow, and
intelligent. "Own land?" said the wife; "well, only this house." Then
she added quietly. "We did buy seven hundred acres across up yonder,
and paid for it; but they cheated us out of it. Sells was the owner."
"Sells!" echoed the ragged misfortune, who was leaning against the
balustrade and listening, "he's a regular cheat. I worked for him
thirty-seven days this spring, and he paid me in cardboard checks which
were to be cashed at the end of the month. But he never cashed
them,—kept putting me off. Then the sheriff came and took my mule and
corn and furniture—" "Furniture? But furniture is exempt from seizure
by law." "Well, he took it just the same," said the hard-faced man.</p>
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