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<h2> ON EATING AND DRINKING. </h2>
<p>I always was fond of eating and drinking, even as a child—especially
eating, in those early days. I had an appetite then, also a digestion. I
remember a dull-eyed, livid-complexioned gentleman coming to dine at our
house once. He watched me eating for about five minutes, quite fascinated
seemingly, and then he turned to my father with—</p>
<p>"Does your boy ever suffer from dyspepsia?"</p>
<p>"I never heard him complain of anything of that kind," replied my father.
"Do you ever suffer from dyspepsia, Colly wobbles?" (They called me Colly
wobbles, but it was not my real name.)</p>
<p>"No, pa," I answered. After which I added:</p>
<p>"What is dyspepsia, pa?"</p>
<p>My livid-complexioned friend regarded me with a look of mingled amazement
and envy. Then in a tone of infinite pity he slowly said:</p>
<p>"You will know—some day."</p>
<p>My poor, dear mother used to say she liked to see me eat, and it has
always been a pleasant reflection to me since that I must have given her
much gratification in that direction. A growing, healthy lad, taking
plenty of exercise and careful to restrain himself from indulging in too
much study, can generally satisfy the most exacting expectations as
regards his feeding powers.</p>
<p>It is amusing to see boys eat when you have not got to pay for it. Their
idea of a square meal is a pound and a half of roast beef with five or six
good-sized potatoes (soapy ones preferred as being more substantial),
plenty of greens, and four thick slices of Yorkshire pudding, followed by
a couple of currant dumplings, a few green apples, a pen'orth of nuts,
half a dozen jumbles, and a bottle of ginger-beer. After that they play at
horses.</p>
<p>How they must despise us men, who require to sit quiet for a couple of
hours after dining off a spoonful of clear soup and the wing of a chicken!</p>
<p>But the boys have not all the advantages on their side. A boy never enjoys
the luxury of being satisfied. A boy never feels full. He can never
stretch out his legs, put his hands behind his head, and, closing his
eyes, sink into the ethereal blissfulness that encompasses the well-dined
man. A dinner makes no difference whatever to a boy. To a man it is as a
good fairy's potion, and after it the world appears a brighter and a
better place. A man who has dined satisfactorily experiences a yearning
love toward all his fellow-creatures. He strokes the cat quite gently and
calls it "poor pussy," in tones full of the tenderest emotion. He
sympathizes with the members of the German band outside and wonders if
they are cold; and for the moment he does not even hate his wife's
relations.</p>
<p>A good dinner brings out all the softer side of a man. Under its genial
influence the gloomy and morose become jovial and chatty. Sour, starchy
individuals, who all the rest of the day go about looking as if they lived
on vinegar and Epsom salts, break out into wreathed smiles after dinner,
and exhibit a tendency to pat small children on the head and to talk to
them—vaguely—about sixpences. Serious men thaw and become
mildly cheerful, and snobbish young men of the heavy-mustache type forget
to make themselves objectionable.</p>
<p>I always feel sentimental myself after dinner. It is the only time when I
can properly appreciate love-stories. Then, when the hero clasps "her" to
his heart in one last wild embrace and stifles a sob, I feel as sad as
though I had dealt at whist and turned up only a deuce; and when the
heroine dies in the end I weep. If I read the same tale early in the
morning I should sneer at it. Digestion, or rather indigestion, has a
marvelous effect upon the heart. If I want to write any thing very
pathetic—I mean, if I want to try to write anything very pathetic—I
eat a large plateful of hot buttered muffins about an hour beforehand, and
then by the time I sit down to my work a feeling of unutterable melancholy
has come over me. I picture heartbroken lovers parting forever at lonely
wayside stiles, while the sad twilight deepens around them, and only the
tinkling of a distant sheep-bell breaks the sorrow-laden silence. Old men
sit and gaze at withered flowers till their sight is dimmed by the mist of
tears. Little dainty maidens wait and watch at open casements; but "he
cometh not," and the heavy years roll by and the sunny gold tresses wear
white and thin. The babies that they dandled have become grown men and
women with podgy torments of their own, and the playmates that they
laughed with are lying very silent under the waving grass. But still they
wait and watch, till the dark shadows of the unknown night steal up and
gather round them and the world with its childish troubles fades from
their aching eyes.</p>
<p>I see pale corpses tossed on white-foamed waves, and death-beds stained
with bitter tears, and graves in trackless deserts. I hear the wild
wailing of women, the low moaning of little children, the dry sobbing of
strong men. It's all the muffins. I could not conjure up one melancholy
fancy upon a mutton chop and a glass of champagne.</p>
<p>A full stomach is a great aid to poetry, and indeed no sentiment of any
kind can stand upon an empty one. We have not time or inclination to
indulge in fanciful troubles until we have got rid of our real
misfortunes. We do not sigh over dead dicky-birds with the bailiff in the
house, and when we do not know where on earth to get our next shilling
from, we do not worry as to whether our mistress' smiles are cold, or hot,
or lukewarm, or anything else about them.</p>
<p>Foolish people—when I say "foolish people" in this contemptuous way
I mean people who entertain different opinions to mine. If there is one
person I do despise more than another, it is the man who does not think
exactly the same on all topics as I do—foolish people, I say, then,
who have never experienced much of either, will tell you that mental
distress is far more agonizing than bodily. Romantic and touching theory!
so comforting to the love-sick young sprig who looks down patronizingly at
some poor devil with a white starved face and thinks to himself, "Ah, how
happy you are compared with me!"—so soothing to fat old gentlemen
who cackle about the superiority of poverty over riches. But it is all
nonsense—all cant. An aching head soon makes one forget an aching
heart. A broken finger will drive away all recollections of an empty
chair. And when a man feels really hungry he does not feel anything else.</p>
<p>We sleek, well-fed folk can hardly realize what feeling hungry is like. We
know what it is to have no appetite and not to care for the dainty
victuals placed before us, but we do not understand what it means to
sicken for food—to die for bread while others waste it—to gaze
with famished eyes upon coarse fare steaming behind dingy windows, longing
for a pen'orth of pea pudding and not having the penny to buy it—to
feel that a crust would be delicious and that a bone would be a banquet.</p>
<p>Hunger is a luxury to us, a piquant, flavor-giving sauce. It is well worth
while to get hungry and thirsty merely to discover how much gratification
can be obtained from eating and drinking. If you wish to thoroughly enjoy
your dinner, take a thirty-mile country walk after breakfast and don't
touch anything till you get back. How your eyes will glisten at sight of
the white table-cloth and steaming dishes then! With what a sigh of
content you will put down the empty beer tankard and take up your knife
and fork! And how comfortable you feel afterward as you push back your
chair, light a cigar, and beam round upon everybody.</p>
<p>Make sure, however, when adopting this plan, that the good dinner is
really to be had at the end, or the disappointment is trying. I remember
once a friend and I—dear old Joe, it was. Ah! how we lose one
another in life's mist. It must be eight years since I last saw Joseph
Taboys. How pleasant it would be to meet his jovial face again, to clasp
his strong hand, and to hear his cheery laugh once more! He owes me 14
shillings, too. Well, we were on a holiday together, and one morning we
had breakfast early and started for a tremendous long walk. We had ordered
a duck for dinner over night. We said, "Get a big one, because we shall
come home awfully hungry;" and as we were going out our landlady came up
in great spirits. She said, "I have got you gentlemen a duck, if you like.
If you get through that you'll do well;" and she held up a bird about the
size of a door-mat. We chuckled at the sight and said we would try. We
said it with self-conscious pride, like men who know their own power. Then
we started.</p>
<p>We lost our way, of course. I always do in the country, and it does make
me so wild, because it is no use asking direction of any of the people you
meet. One might as well inquire of a lodging-house slavey the way to make
beds as expect a country bumpkin to know the road to the next village. You
have to shout the question about three times before the sound of your
voice penetrates his skull. At the third time he slowly raises his head
and stares blankly at you. You yell it at him then for a fourth time, and
he repeats it after you. He ponders while you count a couple of hundred,
after which, speaking at the rate of three words a minute, he fancies you
"couldn't do better than—" Here he catches sight of another idiot
coming down the road and bawls out to him the particulars, requesting his
advice. The two then argue the case for a quarter of an hour or so, and
finally agree that you had better go straight down the lane, round to the
right and cross by the third stile, and keep to the left by old Jimmy
Milcher's cow-shed, and across the seven-acre field, and through the gate
by Squire Grubbin's hay-stack, keeping the bridle-path for awhile till you
come opposite the hill where the windmill used to be—but it's gone
now—and round to the right, leaving Stiggin's plantation behind you;
and you say "Thank you" and go away with a splitting headache, but without
the faintest notion of your way, the only clear idea you have on the
subject being that somewhere or other there is a stile which has to be got
over; and at the next turn you come upon four stiles, all leading in
different directions!</p>
<p>We had undergone this ordeal two or three times. We had tramped over
fields. We had waded through brooks and scrambled over hedges and walls.
We had had a row as to whose fault it was that we had first lost our way.
We had got thoroughly disagreeable, footsore, and weary. But throughout it
all the hope of that duck kept us up. A fairy-like vision, it floated
before our tired eyes and drew us onward. The thought of it was as a
trumpet-call to the fainting. We talked of it and cheered each other with
our recollections of it. "Come along," we said; "the duck will be
spoiled."</p>
<p>We felt a strong temptation, at one point, to turn into a village inn as
we passed and have a cheese and a few loaves between us, but we heroically
restrained ourselves: we should enjoy the duck all the better for being
famished.</p>
<p>We fancied we smelled it when we go into the town and did the last quarter
of a mile in three minutes. We rushed upstairs, and washed ourselves, and
changed our clothes, and came down, and pulled our chairs up to the table,
and sat and rubbed our hands while the landlady removed the covers, when I
seized the knife and fork and started to carve.</p>
<p>It seemed to want a lot of carving. I struggled with it for about five
minutes without making the slightest impression, and then Joe, who had
been eating potatoes, wanted to know if it wouldn't be better for some one
to do the job that understood carving. I took no notice of his foolish
remark, but attacked the bird again; and so vigorously this time that the
animal left the dish and took refuge in the fender.</p>
<p>We soon had it out of that, though, and I was prepared to make another
effort. But Joe was getting unpleasant. He said that if he had thought we
were to have a game of blind hockey with the dinner he would have got a
bit of bread and cheese outside.</p>
<p>I was too exhausted to argue. I laid down the knife and fork with dignity
and took a side seat and Joe went for the wretched creature. He worked
away in silence for awhile, and then he muttered "Damn the duck" and took
his coat off.</p>
<p>We did break the thing up at length with the aid of a chisel, but it was
perfectly impossible to eat it, and we had to make a dinner off the
vegetables and an apple tart. We tried a mouthful of the duck, but it was
like eating India-rubber.</p>
<p>It was a wicked sin to kill that drake. But there! there's no respect for
old institutions in this country.</p>
<p>I started this paper with the idea of writing about eating and drinking,
but I seem to have confined my remarks entirely to eating as yet. Well,
you see, drinking is one of those subjects with which it is inadvisable to
appear too well acquainted. The days are gone by when it was considered
manly to go to bed intoxicated every night, and a clear head and a firm
hand no longer draw down upon their owner the reproach of effeminacy. On
the contrary, in these sadly degenerate days an evil-smelling breath, a
blotchy face, a reeling gait, and a husky voice are regarded as the hall
marks of the cad rather than or the gentleman.</p>
<p>Even nowadays, though, the thirstiness of mankind is something
supernatural. We are forever drinking on one excuse or another. A man
never feels comfortable unless he has a glass before him. We drink before
meals, and with meals, and after meals. We drink when we meet a friend,
also when we part from a friend. We drink when we are talking, when we are
reading, and when we are thinking. We drink one another's healths and
spoil our own. We drink the queen, and the army, and the ladies, and
everybody else that is drinkable; and I believe if the supply ran short we
should drink our mothers-in-law.</p>
<p>By the way, we never eat anybody's health, always drink it. Why should we
not stand up now and then and eat a tart to somebody's success?</p>
<p>To me, I confess the constant necessity of drinking under which the
majority of men labor is quite unaccountable. I can understand people
drinking to drown care or to drive away maddening thoughts well enough. I
can understand the ignorant masses loving to soak themselves in drink—oh,
yes, it's very shocking that they should, of course—very shocking to
us who live in cozy homes, with all the graces and pleasures of life
around us, that the dwellers in damp cellars and windy attics should creep
from their dens of misery into the warmth and glare of the public-house
bar, and seek to float for a brief space away from their dull world upon a
Lethe stream of gin.</p>
<p>But think, before you hold up your hands in horror at their ill-living,
what "life" for these wretched creatures really means. Picture the squalid
misery of their brutish existence, dragged on from year to year in the
narrow, noisome room where, huddled like vermin in sewers, they welter,
and sicken, and sleep; where dirt-grimed children scream and fight and
sluttish, shrill-voiced women cuff, and curse, and nag; where the street
outside teems with roaring filth and the house around is a bedlam of riot
and stench.</p>
<p>Think what a sapless stick this fair flower of life must be to them,
devoid of mind and soul. The horse in his stall scents the sweet hay and
munches the ripe corn contentedly. The watch-dog in his kennel blinks at
the grateful sun, dreams of a glorious chase over the dewy fields, and
wakes with a yelp of gladness to greet a caressing hand. But the clod-like
life of these human logs never knows one ray of light. From the hour when
they crawl from their comfortless bed to the hour when they lounge back
into it again they never live one moment of real life. Recreation,
amusement, companionship, they know not the meaning of. Joy, sorrow,
laughter, tears, love, friendship, longing, despair, are idle words to
them. From the day when their baby eyes first look out upon their sordid
world to the day when, with an oath, they close them forever and their
bones are shoveled out of sight, they never warm to one touch of human
sympathy, never thrill to a single thought, never start to a single hope.
In the name of the God of mercy; let them pour the maddening liquor down
their throats and feel for one brief moment that they live!</p>
<p>Ah! we may talk sentiment as much as we like, but the stomach is the real
seat of happiness in this world. The kitchen is the chief temple wherein
we worship, its roaring fire is our vestal flame, and the cook is our
great high-priest. He is a mighty magician and a kindly one. He soothes
away all sorrow and care. He drives forth all enmity, gladdens all love.
Our God is great and the cook is his prophet. Let us eat, drink, and be
merry.</p>
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