<h2>CHAPTER IV<br/> FIRST ADVENTURES IN LOS ANGELES<br/> 1853</h2>
<p>Once fairly well settled here, I began to clerk for my
brother, who in 1852 had bought out a merchant named
Howard. For this service I received my lodging, the
cost of my board, and thirty dollars each month. The charges
for board at the Bella Union—then enjoying a certain prestige,
through having been the official residence of Pio Pico when
Stockton took the city—were too heavy, and arrangements
were made with a Frenchman named John La Rue, who had
a restaurant on the east side of Los Angeles Street, about two
hundred feet south of Bell's Row. I paid him nine dollars a
week for three more or less hearty meals a day, not including
eggs, unless I provided them; in this case he agreed to prepare
them for me. Eggs were by no means scarce; but steaks and
mutton and pork chops were the popular choice, and potatoes
and vegetables a customary accompaniment.</p>
<p>This La Rue, or Leroux, as he was sometimes called, was an
interesting personality with an interesting history. Born in
France, he sailed for the United States about the time of the
discovery of gold in California, and made his way to San Francisco
and the mines, where luck encouraged him to venture
farther and migrate to Mazatlán, Mexico. While prospecting
there, however, he was twice set upon and robbed; and barely
escaping with his life, he once more turned northward, this time
stopping at San Pedro and Los Angeles. Here, meeting Miss
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</SPAN></span>
Bridget Johnson, a native of Ireland, who had just come from
New York by way of San Diego, La Rue married her, notwithstanding
their inability to speak each other's language, and then
opened a restaurant, which he continued to conduct until 1858
when he died, as the result of exposure at a fire on Main Street.
Although La Rue was in no sense an eminent citizen, it is
certain that he was esteemed and mourned. Prior to his death,
he had bought thirty or thirty-five acres of land, on which he
planted a vineyard and an orange-orchard; and these his wife
inherited. In 1862, Madame La Rue married John Wilson,
also a native of Ireland, who had come to Los Angeles during
the year that the <i>restaurateur</i> died. He was a blacksmith and
worked for John Goller, continuing in business for over twenty
years, and adding greatly, by industry and wise management,
to the dowry brought him by the thrifty widow.</p>
<p>I distinctly recall La Rue's restaurant, and quite as clearly
do I remember one or two humorous experiences there. Nothing
in Los Angeles, perhaps, has ever been cruder than this
popular eating-place. The room, which faced the street, had a
mud-floor and led to the kitchen through a narrow opening.
Half a dozen cheap wooden tables, each provided with two
chairs, stood against the walls. The tablecloths were generally
dirty, and the knives and forks, as well as the furniture, were
of the homeliest kind. The food made up in portions what it
lacked in quality, and the diner rarely had occasion to leave the
place hungry. What went most against my grain was the
slovenliness of the proprietor himself. Flies were very thick in
the summer months; and one day I found a big fellow splurging
in my bowl of soup. This did not, however, faze John La Rue.
Seeing the struggling insect, he calmly dipped his coffee-colored
fingers into the hot liquid and, quite as serenely, drew out the
fly; and although one could not then be as fastidious as nowadays,
I nevertheless found it impossible to eat the soup.</p>
<p>On another occasion, however, mine host's equanimity
was disturbed. I had given him two eggs one morning, to prepare
for me, when Councilman A. Jacobi, a merchant and also
a customer of La Rue's, came in for breakfast, bringing one
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</SPAN></span>
more egg than mine. Presently my meal, unusually generous,
was served, and without loss of time I disposed of it and
was about to leave; when just then Jacobi discovered that the
small portion set before him could not possibly contain the three
eggs he had supplied. Now, Jacobi was not only possessed of a
considerable appetite, but had as well a definite unwillingness
to accept less than his due, while La Rue, on the other hand,
was very easily aroused to a high pitch of Gallic excitement;
so that in less time than is required to relate the story, the two
men were embroiled in a genuine Franco-Prussian dispute, all
on account of poor La Rue's unintentional interchange of the
two breakfasts. Soon after this encounter, Jacobi, who was
an amateur violinist of no mean order, and had fiddled himself
into the affections of his neighbors, left for Berlin with a snug
fortune, and there after some years he died.</p>
<p>Having arranged for my meals, my brother's next provision
was for a sleeping-place. A small, unventilated room adjoining
the store was selected; and there I rested on an ordinary cot
furnished with a mattress, a pillow, and a pair of <i>frazadas</i>, or
blankets. According to custom, whatever of these covers I required
were taken each evening from stock, and the next morning
they were returned to the shelves. Stores as well as houses
were then almost without stoves or fireplaces; and as it grew
colder, I found that the blankets gave little or no warmth.
Indeed they were nothing more or less, notwithstanding their
slight mixture of wool, than ordinary horse-blankets, on which
account in winter I had to use five or six of them to enjoy any
comfort whatever; and since I experienced difficulty in keeping
them on the cot, I resorted at last to the device of tacking them
down on one side.</p>
<p>In 1853, free-and-easy customs were in vogue in Los Angeles,
permitting people in the ordinary affairs of life to do practically
as they pleased. There were few if any restrictions; and
if circumscribing City ordinances existed—except, perhaps,
those of 1850 which, while licensing gaming places, forbade the
playing of cards on the street—I do not remember what they
were. As was the case in San Francisco, neither saloons nor
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</SPAN></span>
gambling places were limited by law, and there were no regulations
for their management. As many persons as could make
a living in this manner kept such establishments, which were
conspicuous amid the sights of the town. Indeed, chief among
the surprises greeting me during my first few weeks upon
the Coast, the many and flourishing gambling dens caused
me the greatest astonishment.</p>
<p>Through the most popular of these districts, a newly-found
friend escorted me on the evening of my arrival in Los Angeles.
The quarter was known by the euphonious title of Calle de los
Negros—Nigger Alley; and this alley was a thoroughfare not
over forty feet wide which led from Aliso Street to the Plaza,
an extent of just one unbroken block. At this period, there was
a long adobe facing Los Angeles Street, having a covered
platform or kind of veranda, about four feet from the ground,
running its entire length. The building commenced at what
was later Sanchez Street, and reached, in an easterly direction,
to within forty feet, more or less, of the east side of
Nigger Alley, then continuing north to the Plaza. This
formed the westerly boundary, while a line of adobes on the
other side of the street formed the easterly line. The structure
first described, and which was demolished many years ago,
later became the scene of the beginning of an awful massacre
to which I shall refer in due season.</p>
<p>Each side of the alley was occupied by saloons and gambling
houses. Men and women alike were to be found there, and
both sexes looked after the gaming tables, dealing monte and
faro, and managing other contrivances that parted the good-natured
and easy-going people from their money. Those in
charge of the banks were always provided with pistols, and
were ready, if an emergency arose, to settle disputes on the
spot; and only rarely did a case come up for adjustment before
the properly-constituted authorities, such as that in 1848, which
remained a subject of discussion for some time, when counterfeiters,
charged with playing at monte with false money, were
tried before a special court made up of Abel Stearns and
Stephen C. Foster. Time was considered a very important
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</SPAN></span>
element during the play; and sanguinary verdicts in financial
disputes were generally rendered at once.</p>
<p>Human life at this period was about the cheapest thing in
Los Angeles, and killings were frequent. Nigger Alley was as
tough a neighborhood, in fact, as could be found anywhere, and
a large proportion of the twenty or thirty murders a month
was committed there. About as plentiful a thing, also, as there
was in the pueblo was liquor. This was served generously in
these resorts, not only with respect to quantity, but as well
regarding variety. In addition to the prodigality of feasting,
there was no lack of music of the native sort—the harp and the
guitar predominating. These scenes were picturesque and
highly interesting. Nigger Alley, for a while the headquarters
for gamblers, enjoyed through that circumstance a certain
questionable status; but in the course of years it came to be
more and more occupied by the Chinese, and given over to
their opium-dens, shops and laundries. There, also, their
peculiar religious rites were celebrated in just as peculiar a joss
house, the hideously-painted gods not in the least becoming a
deterrent factor. Juan Apablasa was among those who owned
considerable property in Chinatown, and a street in that quarter
perpetuates his name.</p>
<p>Having crossed the Plaza, we entered Sonora Town, where
my friend told me that every evening there was much indulgence
in drinking, smoking and gambling, and quite as much
participation in dancing. Some of this life, which continued in
full swing until the late seventies, I witnessed on my first
evening in Los Angeles.</p>
<p>Returning to Main Street, formerly Calle Principal, we
entered the Montgomery, one of the well-known gambling
houses—a one-story adobe about a hundred feet in width, in
front of which was a shaded veranda—situated nearly opposite
the Stearns home, and rather aristocratic, not only in its
furnishings but also in its management. This resort was
managed by the fearless William C., or Billy Getman,
afterward Sheriff of Los Angeles County, whom I saw killed
while trying to arrest a lunatic. The Montgomery was conducted
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</SPAN></span>
in an orderly manner, and catered to the most fastidious
people of Los Angeles, supplying liquors of a correspondingly
high grade; the charge for a drink there being invariably
twenty-five cents. It was provided with a billiard parlor, where
matches were often arranged for a stake of hundreds of dollars.
Games of chance there were for every requirement, the long
and the short purse being equally well accommodated. The
ranch owner could bet his hundreds, while he of lowlier estate
might tempt the fickle goddess according to his narrower
means.</p>
<p>A fraternity of gamblers almost indigenous to California,
and which has been celebrated and even, to an extent,
glorified by such writers as Mark Twain, Bret Harte and
others, was everywhere then in evidence in Los Angeles; and
while it is true that their vocation was illegitimate, many
of them represented nevertheless a splendid type of man:
generous, honest in methods, courageous in operations and
respected by everybody. It would be impossible, perhaps, to
describe this class as I knew them and at the same time to
satisfy the modern ideal; but pioneers will confirm my tribute
to these early gamesters (among whom they may recall Brand
Phillips) and their redeeming characteristics.</p>
<p>As I have said, my brother, J. P. Newmark, was in partnership
with Jacob Rich, the gentleman who met me when I
reached San Francisco; their business being dry-goods and
clothing. They were established in J. N. Padilla's adobe on the
southeast corner of Main and Requena streets, a site so far
"out of town" that success was possible only because of their
catering to a wholesale clientele rather than to the retail trade;
and almost opposite them, ex-Mayor John G. Nichols conducted
a small grocery in a store that he built on the Main
Street side of the property now occupied by Temple Block.
There was an old adobe wall running north and south along the
east line of the lot, out of which Nichols cut about fifteen feet,
using this property to a depth of some thirty feet, thus forming
a rectangular space which he enclosed. Here he carried on a
modest trade which, even in addition to his other cares, scarcely
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</SPAN></span>
demanded his whole time; so that he would frequently visit his
neighbors, among whom Newmark & Rich were his nearest
friends. Often have I seen him therefore, long and lank, seated
in my brother's store tilted back in a chair against the wall or
merchandise, a cigar, which he never lighted, in his mouth, exhorting
his hearers to be patriotic and to purchase City land at
a dollar an acre, thereby furnishing some of the taxes necessary
to lubricate the municipal machinery. Little did any of us
realize, as we listened to this man, that in the course of another
generation or so there would spring into life a prosperous
metropolis whose very heart would be situated near where old
Mayor Nichols was vainly endeavoring to dispose of thirty-five-acre
bargains at thirty-five dollars each—a feature of
municipal coöperation with prospective settlers which was inaugurated
August 13th, 1852, and repealed through dissatisfaction
in 1854. Nichols, who, with J. S. Mallard and Lewis
Granger, brought one of the first three American families to
settle here permanently, and who married a sister of Mrs.
Mallard, was the father of John Gregg Nichols, always claimed
to be the first boy born (April 24th, 1851), of American parents,
in Los Angeles. Nichols when Mayor was never neglectful of
his official duties, as may be seen from his record in providing
Hancock's survey, his construction of the Bath Street School,
his encouragement of better irrigation facilities, his introduction
of the first fruit grafts—brought, by the way, from far-off
New York—and his reëlection as Mayor in 1856, 1857, and
1858. In 1869, another son, Daniel B. Nichols, of whom I shall
speak, was a participant in a fatal shooting affray here.</p>
<p>A still earlier survey than that of Hancock was made by
Lieutenant Edward O. C. Ord—later distinguished in the
Union Army where, singularly enough, he was fighting with
Rosecrans, in time a resident of Los Angeles—who, in an effort
to bring order out of the pueblo chaos, left still greater confusion.
To clear up the difficulty of adobes isolated or stranded in the
middle of the streets, the Common Council in 1854 permitted
owners to claim a right of way to the thoroughfares nearest
their houses. This brings to mind the fact that the <i>vara</i>, a
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</SPAN></span>
Spanish unit equal to about thirty-three inches, was a standard
in real estate measurements even after the advent of Ord,
Hancock and Hansen, who were followed by such surveyors as
P. J. Virgen (recalled by Virgen Street) and his partner Hardy;
and also that the <i>reata</i> was often used as a yardstick—its
uncertain length having contributed, without doubt, to the
chaotic condition confronting Ord.</p>
<p>Graded streets and sidewalks were unknown; hence, after
heavy winter rains mud was from six inches to two feet deep,
while during the summer dust piled up to about the same extent.
Few City ordinances were obeyed; for notwithstanding that a
regulation of the City Council called on every citizen to sweep
in front of his house to a certain point on Saturday evenings,
not the slightest attention was paid to it. Into the roadway
was thrown all the rubbish: if a man bought a new suit of
clothes, a pair of boots, a hat or a shirt, to replace a corresponding
part of his apparel that had outlived its usefulness, he would
think nothing, on attiring himself in the new purchase, of tossing
the discarded article into the street where it would remain
until some passing Indian, or other vagabond, took possession
of it. So wretched indeed were the conditions, that I have seen
dead animals left on the highways for days at a time, and can
recall one instance of a horse dying on Alameda Street and
lying there until a party of Indians cut up the carcass for food.
What made these street conditions more trying was the fact
that on hot days roads and sidewalks were devoid of shade, except
for that furnished by a few scattered trees or an occasional
projecting veranda; while at night (if I except the illumination
from the few lanterns suspended in front of barrooms and stores)
thoroughfares were altogether unlighted. In those nights of
dark streets and still darker tragedies, people rarely went out
unless equipped with candle-burning lanterns, at least until
camphine was imported by my brother, after which this was
brought into general use. Stores were lighted in the same
manner: first with candles, then with camphine and finally
with coal-oil, during which period of advancement lamps replaced
the cruder contrivances.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</SPAN></span></p>
<p>Southern California from the first took an active part in
State affairs. Edward Hunter and Charles E. Carr were the
Assemblymen from this district in 1853; and the following year
they were succeeded by Francis Mellus and Dr. Wilson W.
Jones. Carr was a lawyer who had come in 1852; Hunter
afterward succeeded Pablo de la Guerra as Marshal. Jones was
the doctor who just about the time I came, while returning
from a professional call at the Lugos at about sunset, nearly
rode over the bleeding and still warm body of a cattle-buyer
named Porter, on Alameda Street. The latter had been out to
the Dominguez <i>rancho</i>, to purchase stock, and had taken along
with him a Mexican named Manuel Vergara who introduced
himself as an experienced interpreter and guide, but who was,
in reality, a cutthroat with a record of one or two assassinations.
Vergara observed that Porter possessed considerable
money; and on their way back to Los Angeles shot the American
from behind. Jones quickly gave the alarm; and Banning,
Stanley and others of the volunteer mounted police pursued
the murderer for eighty-five or ninety miles when, the ammunition
of all parties being exhausted, Vergara turned on the one
Vigilante who had caught up with him and, with an adroit thrust
of his knife, cut the latter's bridle and escaped. In the end,
however, some of Major Heintzelman's cavalry at Yuma (who
had been informed by a fleet Indian hired to carry the news of
the fugitive's flight) overtook Vergara and shot him dead.
These volunteer police or Rangers, as they were called, were a
company of one hundred or more men under command of Dr.
A. W. Hope, and included such well-known early settlers as
Nichols, J. G. Downey, S. C. Foster, Agustin Olvera, Juan
Sepúlveda, Horace Bell, M. Keller, Banning, Benjamin Hayes,
F. L. Guirado, David Alexander, J. L. Brent and I. S. K. Ogier.</p>
<p>Under the new order of things, too, following the adoption
in 1849 of a State constitution, County organization in Los
Angeles was effected; and by the time I declared myself for
American citizenship, several elections had been held. Benjamin
Hayes was District Judge in 1853; Agustin Olvera was
finishing his term as County Judge; Dr. Wilson W. Jones was
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</SPAN></span>
County Clerk and Recorder—two offices not separated for
twenty years or until 1873; Lewis Granger was County
Attorney; Henry Hancock was Surveyor; Francis Mellus
(who succeeded Don Manuel Garfias, once the princely owner
but bad manager of the San Pasqual <i>rancho</i>), was Treasurer;
A. F. Coronel was Assessor; James R. Barton was Sheriff and
also Collector of Taxes; and J. S. Mallard, whose name was
given to Mallard Street, was Coroner. Russell Sackett was a
Justice of the Peace here when I arrived; and after a while
Mallard had a court as Justice, near my store on Commercial
Street. All in all, a group of rather strong men!</p>
<p>The administrative officials of both the City and the
County had their headquarters in the one-story adobe building
at the northwest corner of Franklin Alley (later called Jail
Street<SPAN name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</SPAN>) and Spring Street. In addition to those mentioned,
there was a Justice of the Peace, a <i>Zanjero</i>, and a Jailer. António
Franco Coronel had but recently succeeded Nichols as
Mayor; A. S. Beard was Marshal and Tax Collector; Judge
William G. Dryden was Clerk; C. E. Carr was Attorney;
Ygnácio Coronel was Assessor; and S. Arbuckle was Treasurer.</p>
<p>António Franco Coronel, after whom Coronel Street is
named, had just entered upon the duties of Mayor, and was
busy enough with the disposal of donation lots when I first
commenced to observe Los Angeles' government. He came
from Mexico to California with his father, Don Ygnácio F.
Coronel; and by 1850 he was the first County Assessor. He
lived at what is now Alameda and Seventh streets, and had a
brother, Manuel, who was City Assessor in 1858.</p>
<p>Major Henry Hancock, a New Hampshire lawyer and
surveyor, came to Los Angeles in 1852, and at the time of my
arrival had just made the second survey of the city, defining
the boundaries of the thirty-five-acre City lots. I met him
frequently, and by 1859 I was well acquainted with him. He
then owed Newmark, Kremer & Company some money and
offered, toward liquidation of the debt, one hundred and ten
acres of land lying along Washington and extending as far as
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</SPAN></span>
the present Pico Street. It also reached from Main Street to
what is now Grand Avenue. Newmark, Kremer & Company
did not wish the land, and so arranged with Hancock to take
firewood instead. From time to time, therefore, he brought
great logs into town, to be cut up; he also bought a circular saw,
which he installed, with horse-power and tread-mill, in a vacant
lot on Spring Street, back of Joseph Newmark's second residence.
The latter was on Main Street, between First and the
northern junction of Main and Spring; and between this junction
and First Street, it may be interesting to note, there was in
1853 no thoroughfare from Main to Spring. As I was living
there, I acted as his agent for the sale of the wood that was left
after our settlement. The fact is that Hancock was always
land poor, and never out of debt; and when he was particularly
hard up, he parted with his possessions at whatever price they
would bring. The Major (earlier known as Captain Hancock,
who enjoyed his titles through his association with the militia)
retained, however, the celebrated La Brea <i>rancho</i>—bought at a
very early date from A. J. Rocha, and lying between the city
and the sea—which he long thought would furnish oil, but
little dreamt would also contain some of the most important
prehistoric finds; and this ranch, once managed by his wife, a
daughter of Colonel Augustin Haraszthy, the San Francisco
pioneer, is now owned by his son, George Allan Hancock.</p>
<p>George Hansen, to whose far-reaching foresight we owe the
Elysian Park of to-day, was another professional man who was
here before I reached Los Angeles, having come to California
in 1850, by way of Cape Horn and Peru. When he arrived at
Los Angeles, in 1853, as he was fond of recounting, he was too
poor to possess even surveying instruments; but he found a
friend in John Temple, who let him have one hundred dollars
at two per cent interest per month, then a very low rate.
Thereupon Hansen sent to San Francisco for the outfit that
enabled him to establish himself. I met Hansen for the first
time in the last few weeks of 1853, when he came to my brother's
store to buy a suit of clothes, his own being in rags. He had
been out, very probably, on an expedition such as subjected
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</SPAN></span>
a surveyor, particularly in the early days, to much hard work
and fatigue. Hansen, a good student and fine linguist, was
prominent for many years and made more land measurements
hereabouts than did any one else; he had the real management,
in fact, of Hancock's second survey.</p>
<p>Among others who were here, I might mention the Wheeler
brothers. Colonel John Ozias Wheeler, at various times an
office-holder, came to California from Florida, and having
endured many hardships on the trip along the Mississippi,
Arkansas and Gila rivers, arrived at the Chino <i>rancho</i> on August
12th, 1849, afterward assisting Isaac Williams in conveying a
train of supplies back to the Colorado River. The next year
he was joined by his brother, Horace Z. Wheeler, who came by
way of the Isthmus, and later rose to be Appraiser-General of
the Imperial Customs at Yokohama; and the two young men
were soon conducting a general merchandise business in Los
Angeles—if I recollect aright, in a one-story adobe at the
northeast corner of Main and Commercial streets. Extravagant
stories have been printed as to Wheeler's mercantile operations,
one narrative crediting him with sales to the extent of five
thousand dollars or more a day. In those times, however, no
store was large enough to contain such a stock; and two
successive days of heavy sales would have been impossible. In
1851 Colonel Wheeler, who had been on General Andrés
Pico's staff, served as a Ranger; and in 1853 he organized the
first military company in Los Angeles.</p>
<p>Manuel Requena, from Yucatan, was another man of influence.
He lived on the east side of Los Angeles Street, north
of the thoroughfare opened through his vineyard and named
after him—later extended east of Los Angeles Street. As early
as June, 1836, Requena, then <i>Alcalde</i>, made a census of this
district. He was a member of the first, as well as the second,
third, fifth and seventh Common Councils, and with David W.
Alexander was the only member of the first body to serve out
the entire term. In 1852, Requena was elected a Supervisor.
Mrs. Requena was a sister of Mrs. Alexander Bell and Mrs.
James, or Santiago Johnson, and an aunt of Henry and Francis
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</SPAN></span>
Mellus and Mrs. J. H. Lander. Requena died on June 27th,
1876, aged seventy-four years.</p>
<p>Henry N. Alexander appeared in Los Angeles at about the
same time that I did—possibly afterward—and was very active
as a Ranger. He too occupied positions of trust, in business
as well as public life, being both City and County Treasurer—in
the latter case, preceding Maurice Kremer. It is not surprising,
therefore, that he became Wells Fargo & Company's
agent when much uphill work had to be done to establish
their interests here. He married a daughter of Don Pedro
Dominguez. Alexander moved to Arizona, after which I lost
track of him.</p>
<p>John W. Shore, who was here in 1853, was County Clerk
from 1854 to 1857, and again from 1860 to 1863. He always
canvassed for votes on horseback until, one day, he fell off and
broke his leg, necessitating amputation. This terminated his
active campaigns; but through sympathy he was reëlected, and
by a larger majority. Shore was a Democrat.</p>
<p>Mention of public officials leads me to speak of an interesting
personality long associated with them. On the west side of
Spring Street near First, where the Schumacher Building
now stands, John Schumacher conducted, in a single room, as
was then common, a grocery store and bar. A good-hearted,
honest German of the old school, and a first-class citizen,
he had come from Würtemberg to America, and then, with
Stevenson's Regiment, to California, arriving in Los Angeles
in 1847 or 1848. From here he went to Sutter's Creek, where he
found a nugget of gold worth eight hundred dollars, for which
he was offered land in San Francisco later worth millions—a
tender which the Würtemberger declined; and the same year
that I arrived, he returned to Los Angeles, whose activity had
increased considerably since he had last seen it. In 1855,
Schumacher married Fräulein Mary Uhrie, from which union
six children including two sons, John and Frank G. Schumacher,
were born. The eldest daughter became Mrs. Edward A.
Preuss. Schumacher established his store, having bought
nearly the whole block bounded by Spring and First streets
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</SPAN></span>
and Franklin Alley for the value of his famous gold nugget;
and there he remained until the early seventies, the Schumacher
Block being built, as I have said, on a part of the property.
Mrs. Schumacher in 1880 met with a tragic death: while at the
railway station in Merced, she was jolted from the platform
of a car and was instantly killed.</p>
<p>For something else, however, Schumacher was especially
known. When he returned in 1853, he put on sale the first lager
beer introduced into Los Angeles, importing the same from San
Francisco, of which enterprise the genial German was proud;
but Schumacher acquired even more fame for a drink that he
may be said to have invented, and which was known to the
early settlers as <i>Peach and Honey</i>. It contained a good mixture
with peach brandy, and was a great favorite, especially with
politicians and frequenters of the neighboring Courthouse,
including well-known members of the Bar, all of whom crowded
John's place, "between times," to enjoy his much-praised
concoction. Whenever in fact anyone had a cold, or fancied
that he was going to be so afflicted, he hastened to John for his
reputedly-certain cure. Schumacher, who served as Councilman
in 1855, 1856 and 1857, was proficient in languages and, as an
interpreter, often gave his time and services freely in assisting
his less-gifted neighbors, particularly the poor and unfortunate,
to straighten out their affairs. In the fall of 1860, he had a
narrow escape through the carelessness of a customer who
threw a lighted match into a can of powder. Schumacher
owned some acreage in what was known as the Green Meadows,
a section located near what is now South Figueroa Street; and
this land he held with Jacob Bell, who was assassinated, as I
shall relate, by a Frenchman named Lachenais—hanged, in
turn, by an exasperated mob.</p>
<p>Most political meetings of that period took place at the
Plaza home of Don Ygnácio Del Valle, first County Recorder.
From 1841, Don Ygnácio lived for some time on the San Francisco
<i>rancho</i> granted by the King of Spain to his father and confirmed
by patent in 1875. He also owned the more famous
Camulos <i>rancho</i> on the Santa Clara River, consisting of several
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</SPAN></span>
thousand acres north and west of Newhall, afterward selected
by Helen Hunt Jackson as the setting for some of the scenes in
her novel, <i>Ramona</i>; and these possessions made him a man of
great importance. During his later life, when he had abandoned
his town residence, Del Valle dwelt in genteel leisure at the
<i>rancho</i>, dying there in 1880; and I will not miss this opportunity
to attest his patrician bearing and genial qualities.</p>
<p>At the time of my arrival, there was but one voting precinct
and the polling place was located at the old municipal and
County adobe already spoken of; although later a second polls
was established at the Round House. Inside the room sat the
election judges and clerks; outside a window stood the jam of
voters. The window-sill corresponded to the thickness of the
adobe wall, and was therefore about three feet deep. This sill
served as a table, upon it being placed a soap- or candle-box,
into which a hole had been cut for the deposit of the votes.</p>
<p>There was also no register, either great or small, and anyone
could vote. Each party printed its own tickets; and so could
any candidate. This resulted in great confusion, since there
were always many tickets in the field—as many, in fact, as
there were candidates; yet the entire proceeding had become
legalized by custom. The candidate of one party could thus
use the ticket of the other, substituting his own name for his
opponent's, and leaving all of the remainder of the ticket unchanged;
in addition to which there was such a lack of uniformity
in the size and color of the ballots as greatly to add to
the confusion in counting.</p>
<p>To make matters worse, the ballot-box was not easily
reached because of the crowd which was made up largely
of the candidates and their friends. Challenging was the
order of the day; yet, after crimination and recrimination, the
votes were generally permitted to be cast. Although it is true,
of course, that many votes were legitimate, yet aliens such as
Mexicans, who had not even considered the question of taking
out citizenship papers, were permitted to vote while Indians and
half-breeds, who were not eligible to citizenship at all, were irregularly
given the franchise. The story is told of an election
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</SPAN></span>
not far from Los Angeles at which a whole tribe of Indians
was voted; while on another occasion the names on a steamer's
passenger-list were utilized by persons who had already voted,
that very day, once or twice! Cutting off the hair, shaving
one's beard or mustache, reclothing or otherwise transforming
the appearance of the voter—these were some of the tricks
then practiced, which the new registry law of 1866 only
partially did away with.</p>
<p>Sonorans, who had recently arrived from Mexico, as well as
the aliens I have mentioned, were easy subjects for the political
manipulator. The various candidates, for example, would
round-up these prospective voters like so many cattle, confine
them in corrals (usually in the neighborhood of Boyle
Heights), keep them in a truly magnificent state of intoxication
until the eventful morning, and then put them in stages
hired from either Banning or Tomlinson for the purpose; and
from the time the temporary prisoners left the corral until
their votes had been securely deposited, they were closely
watched by guards. On reaching the voting place, the captives
were unloaded from the stage like so much inanimate baggage,
and turned over to friends of the candidate to whom, so to
speak, for the time being they belonged. One at a time, these
creatures were led to vote; and as each staggered to the ballot-box,
a ticket was held up and he was made to deposit it.
Once having served the purpose, he was turned loose and remained
free until another election unless, as I have intimated,
he and his fellows were again corralled and made to vote a
second or even a third time the same day.</p>
<p>Nearly all influential Mexicans were Democrats, so that
this party easily controlled the political situation; from which
circumstance a certain brief campaign ended in a most amusing
manner. It happened that Thomas H. Workman, brother of
William H., once ran for County Clerk, although he was not a
Democrat. Billy was naturally much interested in his brother's
candidacy, and did what he could to help him. On the evening
before election, he rented a corral—located near what is now
Macy Street and Mission Road, on property later used by
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</SPAN></span>
Charles F., father of Alfred Stern, and for years in partnership
with L. J. Rose; and there, with the assistance of some friends,
he herded together about one hundred docile though illegal
voters, most of whom were Indians, kept them all night and,
by supplying fire-water liberally, at length led them into the
state of bewilderment necessary for such an occasion. The
Democratic leaders, however, having learned of this magnificent
<i>coup</i>, put their heads together and soon resolved to thwart
Billy's plan. In company with some prominent Mexican
politicians led by Tomás Sanchez, they loaded themselves
into a stage and visited the corral; and once arrived there,
those that could made such flowery stump speeches in the
native language of the horde that, in fifteen or twenty minutes,
they had stampeded the whole band! Billy entered a vigorous
protest, saying that the votes were <i>his</i> and that it was a
questionable and even a damnable trick; but all his protests
were of no avail: the bunch of corralled voters had been captured
in a body by the opposition, deciding the contest. These
were the methods then in vogue in accordance with which it
was considered a perfectly legitimate transaction to buy votes,
and there was no secret made of the <i>modus operandi</i> by either
party.</p>
<p>During these times of agitated politics, newspapers (such as
they were) played an important part. In them were published
letters written by ambitious candidates to themselves and
signed, "The People," "A Disinterested Citizen," or some
equally anonymous phrase. As an exception to the usual
maneuver, however, the following witty announcement was
once printed by an office-seeker:</p>
<div class="blockquot"><p>George N. Whitman, not having been requested by "Many
Friends," or solicited by "Many Voters," to become a candidate
for the office of Township Constable, at the end of the
ensuing September election, offers himself.</p>
</div>
<p>Here I am reminded of an anecdote at the expense of John
Quincy Adams Stanley, who in 1856 ran for Sheriff against
David W. Alexander, and was County Assessor in the middle
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</SPAN></span>
seventies. Stanley was a very decent but somewhat over-trusting
individual; and ignoring suggestions as to expenditures
for votes, too readily believed promises of support by the
voters of the county, almost every one of whom gave him a
favorable pledge in the course of the campaign. When the
ballots were counted, however, and Stanley learned that he
had received just about fifty votes, he remarked, rather dryly:
"I didn't know that there were so many <i>damned liars</i> in the
county!"</p>
<p>Another interesting factor in early elections was the vote
of Teháchepi, then in Los Angeles County. About thirty votes
were cast there; but as communication with Los Angeles was
irregular, it was sometimes necessary to wait a week or more
to know what bearing the decision of Teháchepi had on the
general result.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</SPAN></span></p>
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