<h2>CHAPTER IX<br/> FAMILIAR HOME-SCENES<br/> 1854</h2>
<p>Many of the houses, as I have related, were clustered
around and north of the Plaza Church, while the hills
surrounding the pueblo to the West were almost bare.
These same hills have since been subdivided and graded to
accommodate the Westlake, the Wilshire, the West Temple
and other sections. Main and Spring streets were laid out
beyond First, but they were very sparsely settled; while to the
East of Main and extending up to that street, there were many
large vineyards without a single break as far south as the
Ninth Street of to-day, unless we except a narrow and short
lane there. To enable the reader to form an accurate impression
of the time spent in getting to a nearby point, I will add that, to
reach William Wolfskin's home, which was in the neighborhood
of the present Arcade Depot, one was obliged to travel down
to Aliso Street, thence to Alameda, and then south on Alameda
to Wolfskin's orchard. From Spring Street, west and as far
as the coast, there was one huge field, practically unimproved
and undeveloped, the swamp lands of which were covered with
tules. All of this land, from the heart of the present retail
district to the city limits, belonged to the municipality. I
incline to the opinion that both Ord and Hancock had
already surveyed in this southwestern district; but through
there, nevertheless, no single street had as yet been cut.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_156a" id="i_156a"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_156a.jpg" width-obs="243" height-obs="317" alt="" /> <p class="caption">J. P. Newmark<br/> From a vignette of the sixties</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_156b" id="i_156b"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_156b.jpg" width-obs="245" height-obs="327" alt="" /> <p class="caption">O. W. Childs</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_156c" id="i_156c"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_156c.jpg" width-obs="239" height-obs="321" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Jacob Rich</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_156d" id="i_156d"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_156d.jpg" width-obs="246" height-obs="330" alt="" /> <p class="caption">John O. Wheeler</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_157a" id="i_157a"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_157a.jpg" width-obs="255" height-obs="329" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Benjamin D. Wilson</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_157b" id="i_157b"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_157b.jpg" width-obs="238" height-obs="322" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Dr. Obed Macy</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_157c" id="i_157c"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_157c.jpg" width-obs="259" height-obs="329" alt="" /> <p class="caption">George Hansen</p> </div>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i_157d" id="i_157d"></SPAN> <ANTIMG src="images/i_157d.jpg" width-obs="252" height-obs="327" alt="" /> <p class="caption">Samuel C. Foy</p> </div>
<p>Not merely at the Plaza, but throughout Los Angeles, most
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</SPAN></span>
of the houses were built of adobe, or mud mixed with straw and
dried for months in the sun; and several fine dwellings of this
kind were constructed after I came. The composition was
of such a nature that, unless protected by roofs and verandas,<SPAN name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</SPAN>
the mud would slowly wash away. The walls, however, also requiring
months in which to dry, were generally three or four
feet thick; and to this as well as to the nature of the material
may be attributed the fact that the houses in the summer
season were cool and comfortable, while in winter they were
warm and cheerful. They were usually rectangular in shape,
and were invariably provided with <i>patios</i> and corridors. There
was no such thing as a basement under a house, and floors were
frequently earthen. Conventionality prescribed no limit as to
the number of rooms, an adobe frequently having a sitting-room,
a dining-room, a kitchen and as many bedrooms as were
required; but there were few, if any, "frills" for the mere sake
of style. Most adobes were but one story in height, although
there were a few two-story houses; and it is my recollection that,
in such cases, the second story was reached from the outside.
Everything about an adobe was emblematic of hospitality:
the doors, heavy and often apparently home-made, were
wide, and the windows were deep. In private houses, the
doors were locked with a key; but in some of the stores, they
were fastened with a bolt fitted into iron receptacles on either
side. The windows, swinging on hinges, opened inward and
were locked in the center. There were few curtains or blinds;
wooden shutters, an inch thick, also fastening in the center,
being generally used instead. If there were such conveniences
as hearths and fireplaces, I cannot recollect them, although I
think that here and there the <i>brasero</i>, or pan and hot coals, was
still employed. There were no chimneys, and the smoke, as
from the kitchen stove, escaped through the regular stacks
leading out through a pane in the window or a hole in the wall.
The porches, also spoken of as verandas and rather wide,
were supported by equidistant perpendicular posts; and when
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</SPAN></span>
an adobe had two stories, the veranda was also double-storied.
Few if any vines grew around these verandas in early days,
largely because of the high cost of water. For the same reason,
there were almost no gardens.</p>
<p>The roofs which, as I have intimated, proved as necessary
to preserve the adobe as to afford protection from the semi-tropical
sun, were generally covered with asphalt and were
usually flat in order to keep the tar from running off. As well
as I can recollect, Vicente Salsido—or Salcito, as his name
was also written—who lived in or somewhere near Nigger
Alley, was the only man then engaged in the business of
mending pitch-roofs. When winter approached and the
first rainfall produced leaks, there was a general demand
for Salsido's services and a great scramble among owners
of buildings to obtain them. Such was the need, in fact,
that more than one family, drowned out while waiting, was
compelled to move to the drier quarters of relatives or
friends, there to stay until the roofer could attend to their
own houses. Under a huge kettle, put up in the public
street, Salsido set fire to some wood, threw in his pitch and
melted it. Then, after he or a helper had climbed onto the
roof, the molten pitch was hauled up in buckets and poured
over the troublesome leaks. Much of this tar was imported
from the North, but some was obtained in this locality,
particularly from so-called springs on the Hancock ranch, which
for a long time have furnished great quantities of the useful, if
unattractive, substance. This asphalt was later used for sidewalks,
and even into the eighties was employed as fuel. To
return to Salsido, I might add that in summer the pitch-roofer
had no work at all.</p>
<p>Besides the adobes with their asphalt roofs, some houses,
erected within the first quarter of the Nineteenth Century,
were covered with tiles. The most notable tiled building was
the old Church, whose roof was unfortunately removed when
the edifice was so extensively renovated. The Carrillo home
was topped with these ancient tiles, as were also José María
Ábila's residence; Vicente Sanchez's two-story adobe south of
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</SPAN></span>
the Plaza, and the Alvarado house on First Street, between
Main and Los Angeles streets.</p>
<p>It was my impression that there were no bricks in Los
Angeles when I first came, although about 1854 or 1855 Jacob
Weixel had the first regular brickyard. In conversation with
old-timers, however, many years ago, I was assured that Captain
Jesse Hunter, whom I recall, had built a kiln not far from
the later site of the Potomac Block, on Fort Street, between
Second and Third; and that, as early as 1853, he had put up a
brick building on the west side of Main Street, about one
hundred and fifty feet south of the present site of the Bullard
Block. This was for Mayor Nichols, who paid Hunter thirty
dollars a thousand for the new and more attractive kind of
building material. This pioneer brick building has long since
disappeared. Hunter seems to have come to Los Angeles
alone, and to have been followed across the plains by his wife,
two sons and three daughters, taking up his permanent residence
here in 1856. One of the daughters married a man
named Burke, who conducted a blacksmith and wagon shop
in Hunter's Building on Main Street. Hunter died in 1874.
Dr. William A. Hammel, father of Sheriff William Hammel,
who came to California during the gold excitement of '49, had
one of the first red brick houses in Los Angeles, on San Pedro
Street, between Second and Third.</p>
<p>Sometime in 1853, or perhaps in 1854, the first building
erected by the public in Los Angeles County was put together
here of brick baked in the second kiln ever fired in the city.
It was the Town Jail on the site of the present Phillips Block,<SPAN name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</SPAN>
at the northwest corner of Spring and Franklin streets. This
building took the place of the first County Jail, a rude adobe
that stood on the hill back of the present National Government
Building. In that jail, I have understood, there were no cells,
and prisoners were fastened by chains to logs outside.</p>
<p><i>Zanja</i> water was being used for irrigation when I arrived.
A system of seven or eight <i>zanjas</i>, or open ditches—originated, I
have no doubt, by the Catholic Fathers—was then in operation,
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</SPAN></span>
although it was not placed under the supervision of a <i>Zanjero</i>,
or Water Commissioner, until 1854. These small surface canals
connected at the source with the <i>zanja madre</i>, or mother ditch,
on the north side of the town, from which they received their
supply; the <i>zanja madre</i> itself being fed from the river, at a
point a long way from town. The <i>Zanjero</i> issued permits, for
which application had to be made some days in advance,
authorizing the use of the water for irrigation purposes. A
certain amount was paid for the use of this water during
a period of twelve hours, without any limit as to the quantity
consumed, and the purchaser was permitted to draw his supply
both day and night.</p>
<p>Water for domestic uses was a still more expensive luxury.
Inhabitants living in the immediate neighborhood of <i>zanjas</i>, or
near the river, helped themselves; but their less-fortunate
brethren were served by a carrier, who charged fifty cents a
week for one bucket a day, while he did not deliver on Sunday
at all. Extra requirements were met on the same basis; and
in order to avoid an interruption in the supply, prompt settlement
of the charge had to be made every Saturday evening.
This character was known as Bill the Waterman. He was a tall
American, about thirty or thirty-five years old; he had a mustache,
wore long, rubber boots coming nearly to his waist, and
presented the general appearance of a laboring man; and his
somewhat rickety vehicle, drawn by two superannuated
horses, slowly conveyed the man and his barrel of about sixty
gallons capacity from house to house. He was a wise dispenser,
and quite alert to each household's needs.</p>
<p>Bill obtained his supply from the Los Angeles River, where
at best it was none too clean, in part owing to the frequent
passage of the river by man and beast. Animals of all kinds,
including cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, mules and donkeys,
crossed and recrossed the stream continually, so that the mud
was incessantly stirred up, and the polluted product proved
unpalatable and even, undoubtedly, unhealthful. To make
matters worse, the river and the <i>zanjas</i> were the favorite
bathing-places, all the urchins of the hamlet disporting themselves
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</SPAN></span>
there daily, while most of the adults, also, frequently
immersed themselves. Both the yet unbridged stream and
the <i>zanjas</i>, therefore, were repeatedly contaminated, although
common sense should have protected the former to a greater or
less extent; while as to the latter there were ordinances drawn
up by the Common Council of 1850 which prohibited the
throwing of filth into fresh water designed for common use,
and also forbade the washing of clothes on the <i>zanja</i> banks.
This latter regulation was disobeyed by the native women,
who continued to gather there, dip their soiled garments in
the water, place them on stones and beat them with sticks, a
method then popular for the extraction of dirt.</p>
<p>Besides Bill the Waterman, Dan Schieck was a water-vender,
but at a somewhat later date. Proceeding to the <i>zanja</i>
in a curious old cart, he would draw the water he needed, fresh
every morning, and make daily deliveries at customers' houses
for a couple of dollars a month. Schieck forsook this business,
however, and went into draying, making a specialty of meeting
Banning's coaches and transferring the passengers to their
several destinations. He was a frugal man, and accumulated
enough to buy the southwest corner of Franklin and Spring
streets. As a result, he left property of considerable value.
He died about twenty-five years ago; Mrs. Schieck, who was a
sister of John Fröhling, died in 1874.</p>
<p>Just one more reference to the drinking-water of that
period. When delivered to the customer, it was emptied into
<i>ollas</i>, or urn-shaped vessels, made from burned clay or terra
cotta. Every family and every store was provided with at
least one of these containers which, being slightly porous, possessed
the virtue (of particular value at a time when there was
no ice) of keeping the water cool and refreshing. The <i>olla</i> commonly
in use had a capacity of four or five gallons, and was
usually suspended from the ceiling of a porch or other convenient
place; while attached to this domestic reservoir, as a
rule, was a long-handled dipper generally made from a gourd.
Filters were not in use, in consequence of which fastidious
people washed out their <i>ollas</i> very frequently. These wide-mouthed
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</SPAN></span>
pots recall to me an appetizing Spanish dish, known
as <i>olla-podrida</i>, a stew consisting of various spiced meats,
chopped fine, and an equally varied assortment of vegetables,
partaken of separately; all bringing to mind, perhaps,
Thackeray's sentimental <i>Ballad of Bouillabaisse</i>. Considering
these inconveniences, how surprising it is that the Common
Council, in 1853, should have frowned upon Judge William
G. Dryden's proposition to distribute, in pipes, all the water
needed for domestic use.</p>
<p>On May 16th, 1854, the first Masonic lodge—then and now
known as 42—received its charter, having worked under
special dispensation since the preceding December. The first
officers chosen were: H. P. Dorsey, Master; J. Elias, Senior
Warden; Thomas Foster, Junior Warden; James R. Barton,
Treasurer; Timothy Foster, Secretary; Jacob Rich, Senior
Deacon; and W. A. Smith, Tyler.</p>
<p>For about three decades after my arrival, smallpox epidemics
visited us somewhat regularly every other year, and the
effect on the town was exceedingly bad. The whole population
was on such a friendly footing that every death made a very
great impression. The native element was always averse to
vaccination and other sanitary measures; everybody objected
to isolation, and disinfecting was unknown. In more than one
familiar case, the surviving members of a stricken family went
into the homes of their kinsmen, notwithstanding the danger
of contagion. Is it any wonder, therefore, when such ignorance
was universal, that the pest spread alarmingly and that the
death-rate was high?</p>
<p>The smallpox wagon, dubbed the <i>Black Maria</i>, was a
frequent sight on the streets of Los Angeles during these
sieges. There was an isolated pesthouse near the Chavez Ravine,
but the patients of the better class were always treated
at home, where the sanitation was never good; and at best the
community was seriously exposed. Consternation seized the
public mind, communication with the outside world was disturbed,
and these epidemics were the invariable signal for
business disorder and crises.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</SPAN></span></p>
<p>This matter of primitive sanitation reminds me of an experience.
To accommodate an old iron bath-tub that I wished
to set up in my Main Street home in the late sixties, I was
obliged to select one of the bedrooms; since, when my adobe
was built, the idea of having a separate bathroom in a house
had never occurred to any owner. I connected it with the
<i>zanja</i> at the rear of my lot by means of a wooden conduit; which,
although it did not join very closely, answered all purposes for
the discharge of waste water. One of my children for several
years slept in this combination bath- and bedroom; and although
the plumbing was as old-fashioned as it well could be, yet during
all that time there was no sickness in our family.</p>
<p>It was fortunate indeed that the adobe construction of the
fifties rendered houses practically fireproof since, in the absence
of a water-system, a bucket-brigade was all there was to fight
a fire with, and this rendered but poor service. I remember
such a brigade at work, some years after I came, in the vicinity
of the Bell Block, when a chain of helpers formed a relay
from the nearest <i>zanja</i> to the blazing structure. Buckets were
passed briskly along, from person to person, as in the animated
scene described by Schiller in the well-known lines of <i>Das Lied
von der Glocke</i>:</p>
<div class="poetry-container">
<div class="poem">
<p><i>Durch der Hände lange Kette</i></p>
<p><i>Um die Wette</i></p>
<p><i>Fliegt der Eimer</i>;<SPAN name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</SPAN></p>
</div>
</div>
<p>a process which was continued until the fire had exhausted
itself. Francis Mellus had a little hand-cart, but for lack of
water it was generally useless. Instead of fire-bells announcing
to the people that a conflagration was in progress, the discharging
of pistols in rapid succession gave the alarm and was the
signal for a general fusillade throughout the neighboring streets.
Indeed, this method of sounding a fire-alarm was used as late
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</SPAN></span>
as the eighties. On the breaking out of fires, neighbors and
friends rushed to assist the victim in saving what they could
of his property.</p>
<p>On account of the inadequate facilities for extinguishing
anything like a conflagration, it transpired that insurance
companies would not for some time accept risks in Los Angeles.
If I am not mistaken, S. Lazard obtained the first protection
late in the fifties and paid a premium of four per cent. The
policy was issued by the Hamburg-Bremen Company, through
Adelsdorfer Brothers of San Francisco, who also imported
foreign merchandise; and Lazard, thereafter, as the Los Angeles
agent for the Hamburg-Bremen Company, was the first
insurance underwriter here of whom I have any knowledge.
Adelsdorfer Brothers, it is also interesting to note, imported
the first Swedish matches brought into California, perhaps having
in mind cause and effect with profit at both ends; they
put them on the retail market in Los Angeles at twenty-five
cents a package.</p>
<p>This matter of fires calls to mind an interesting feature of
the city when I first saw it. When Henry, or Enrique Dalton
sailed from England, he shipped a couple of corrugated iron
buildings, taking them to South America where he used them
for several years. On coming to Los Angeles, he brought
the buildings with him, and they were set up at the site of
the present corner of Spring and Court streets. In a sense,
therefore, these much-transported iron structures (one of which,
in 1858, I rented as a storeroom for wool) came to be among
the earliest "fire-proof" buildings here.</p>
<p>As early as 1854, the need of better communication between
Los Angeles and the outside world was beginning to be felt;
and in the summer of that year the Supervisors—D. W.
Alexander, S. C. Foster, J. Sepúlveda, C. Aguilar and S. S.
Thompson—voted to spend one thousand dollars to open a
wagon road over the mountains between the San Fernando
Mission and the San Francisco <i>rancho</i>. A rather broad trail
already existed there; but such was its grade that many a
pioneer, compelled to use a windlass or other contrivance to let
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</SPAN></span>
down his wagon in safety, will never forget the real perils of the
descent. For years it was a familiar experience with stages, on
which I sometimes traveled, to attach chains or boards to retard
their downward movement; nor were passengers even then without
anxiety until the hill- or mountain-side had been passed.</p>
<p>During 1854, Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark and family,
whom I had met, the year before, for a few hours in San Francisco,
arrived here and located in the one-story adobe owned
by John Goller and adjoining his blacksmith shop. There were
six children—Matilda, Myer J., Sarah, Edward, Caroline and
Harriet—all of whom had been born in New York City. With
their advent, my personal environment immediately changed:
they provided me with a congenial home; and as they at once
began to take part in local social activities, I soon became well
acquainted. My aunt took charge of my English education,
and taught me to spell, read and write in that language; and I
have always held her efforts in my behalf in grateful appreciation.
As a matter of fact, having so early been thrown into
contact with Spanish-speaking neighbors and patrons, I learned
Spanish before I acquired English.</p>
<p>The Newmarks had left New York on December 15th, 1852,
on the ship <i>Carrington</i>, T. B. French commanding, to make the
trip around the Horn, San Francisco being their destination.
After a voyage for the most part pleasant, although not altogether
free from disagreeable features and marked by much
rough weather, they reached the Golden Gate, having been
four months and five days on the ocean. One of the enjoyable
incidents <i>en route</i> was an old-fashioned celebration in which
<i>Neptune</i> took part when they crossed the equator. In a diary
of that voyage kept by Myer J. Newmark, mention is made
that "our Democratic President, Franklin Pierce, and Vice-President,
William R. King, were inaugurated March 4th, 1853;"
which reminds me that some forty years later Judge H. A.
Pierce, the President's cousin, and his wife who was of literary
proclivities, came to be my neighbors in Los Angeles. Mr.
and Mrs. Newmark and their family remained in San Francisco
until 1854.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</SPAN></span></p>
<p>Joseph Newmark, formerly Neumark, born June 15th, 1799,
was, I assume, the first to adopt the English form of the name.
He was genuinely religious and exalted in character. His wife,
Rosa, whom he married in New York in 1835, was born in
London on March 17th, 1808. He came to America in 1824,
spent a few years in New York, and resided for a while in Somerset,
Connecticut, where, on January 21st, 1831, he joined the
Masonic fraternity. During his first residence in New York, he
started the Elm Street Synagogue, one of the earliest in America.
In 1840, we find him in St. Louis, a pioneer indeed. Five years
later he was in Dubuque, Iowa, then a frontier village. In 1846,
he once more pitched his tent in New York; and during this
sojourn he organized the Wooster Street Congregation. Immediately
after reaching Los Angeles, he brought into
existence the Los Angeles Hebrew Benevolent Society, which
met for some time at his home on Sunday evenings, and which,
I think, was the first charitable institution in this city. Its
principal objects were to care for the sick, to pay proper respect,
according to Jewish ritual, to the dead, and to look after
the Jewish Cemetery which was laid out about that time; so
that the Society at once became a real spiritual force and
continued so for several years. The first President was Jacob
Elias. Although Mr. Newmark had never served as a salaried
Rabbi, he had been ordained and was permitted to officiate;
and one of the immediate results of his influence was the establishment
of worship on Jewish holidays, under the auspices
of the Society named. The first service was held in the rear
room of an adobe owned by John Temple. Joseph Newmark
also inspired the purchase of land for the Jewish Cemetery.
After Rabbi Edelman came, my uncle continued on various
occasions to assist him. When, in course of time, the population
of Los Angeles increased, the responsibilities of the Hebrew
Benevolent Society were extended. Although a Jewish
organization, and none but Jews could become members of it
or receive burial in the Jewish Cemetery, its aim was to give
relief, as long as its financial condition would permit, to every
worthy person that appeared, whoever he was or whatever his
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</SPAN></span>
creed. Recalling this efficient organization, I may say that I
believe myself to be one of but two survivors among the charter
members—S. Lazard being the other.</p>
<p>Kiln Messer was another pioneer who came around the
Horn about that time, although he arrived here from Germany
a year later than I did; and during his voyage, he had a trying
experience in a shipwreck off Cape Verde where, with his comrades,
he had to wait a couple of months before another vessel
could be signaled. Even then he could get no farther toward
his destination—the Golden Gate—than Rio de Janeiro, where
he was delayed five or six months more. Finally reaching San
Francisco, he took to mining; but, weakened by fever (an
experience common among the gold-seekers), he made his way
to Los Angeles. After brewing beer for a while at the corner of
Third and Main streets, Messer bought a twenty-acre vineyard
which, in 1857, he increased by another purchase to forty-five
or fifty acres; and it was his good fortune that this property
was so located as to be needed by the Santa Fé Railroad, in
1888, as a terminal. Toward the end of the seventies, Messer,
moderately well-to-do, was a grocer at the corner of Rose and
First streets; and about 1885, he retired.</p>
<p>Joseph Newmark brought with him to Los Angeles a
Chinese servant, to whom he paid one hundred dollars a month;
and, as far as I know, this Mongolian was the first to come to
our city. This domestic item has additional interest, perhaps,
because it was but five or six years before that the first Chinese
to emigrate from the Celestial Kingdom to California—two
men and a lone woman—had come to San Francisco
in the ship <i>Eagle</i> from Hong Kong. A year later, there were
half a hundred Chinamen in the territory, while at the end of
still another year, during the gold excitement, nearly a thousand
Chinese entered the Golden Gate.</p>
<p>The housekeeping experiences of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph
Newmark remind me that it was not easy in the early days to
get satisfactory domestic service. Indians, negroes and sometimes
Mexicans were employed, until the arrival of more
Chinese and the coming of white girls. Joseph Newmark,
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</SPAN></span>
when I lived with his family, employed, in addition to the
Chinaman, an Indian named Pedro who had come with his
wife from Temécula and whose remuneration was fifty cents a
day; and these servants attended to most of the household
duties. The annual <i>fiesta</i> at Temécula used to attract Pedro
and his better-half; and while they were absent, the Newmark
girls did the work.</p>
<p>My new home was very congenial, not the least of its attractions
being the family associations at meal-time. The opportunities
for obtaining a variety of food were not as good
perhaps as they are to-day, and yet some delicacies were more
in evidence. Among these I might mention wild game and
chickens. Turkeys, of all poultry, were the scarcest and most-prized.
All in all, our ordinary fare has not changed so much
except in the use of mutton, certain vegetables, ice and a
few dainties.</p>
<p>There was no extravagance in the furnishing of pioneer
homes. Few people coming to Los Angeles expected to locate
permanently; they usually planned to accumulate a small competency
and then return to their native heaths. In consequence,
little attention was paid to quality or styles, and it is
hard to convey a comprehensive idea of the prevailing lack of
ordinary comforts. For many years the inner walls of adobes
were whitewashed—a method of mural finish not the most
agreeable, since the coating so easily "came off;" and only in
the later periods of frame houses, did we have kalsomined and
hard-finished wall surfaces. Just when papered and tinted
walls came in, I do not remember; but they were long delayed.
Furniture was plain and none too plentiful; and glassware
and tableware were of an inferior grade.</p>
<p>Certain vegetables were abundant, truck-gardening having
been introduced here in the early fifties by Andrew Briswalter, an
Alsatian by birth and an original character. He first operated
on San Pedro Street, where he rented a tract of land and
peddled his vegetables in a wheelbarrow, charging big prices.
So quickly did he prosper that he was soon able to buy a piece
of land, as well as a horse and wagon. When he died, in the
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</SPAN></span>
eighties, he bequeathed a large estate, consisting of City and
County acreage and lots, in the disposition of which he unrighteously
cut off his only niece. Playa del Rey was later
built on some of this land. Acres of fruit trees, fronting
on Main, in the neighborhood of the present Ninth and
Tenth streets, and extending far in an easterly direction,
formed another part of his holding. It was on this land that
Briswalter lived until his last illness. He bought this tract
from O. W. Childs, it having originally belonged to H. C.
Cardwell, a son-in-law of William Wolfskill—the same Cardwell
who introduced here, on January 7th, 1856, the heretofore
unknown seedling strawberries.</p>
<p>One Mumus was in the field nearly as soon as Briswalter.
A few years later, Chinese vegetable men came to monopolize
this trade. Most of their gardens neighbored on what is now
Figueroa Street, north of Pico; and then, as now, they peddled
their wares from wagons. Wild celery grew in quantities
around the <i>zanjas</i>, but was not much liked. Cultivated celery,
on the other hand, was in demand and was brought from the
North, whence we also imported most of our cabbage, cauliflower
and asparagus. But after a while, the Chinese also cultivated
celery; and when, in the nineties, E. A. Curtis, D. E.
Smeltzer and others failed in an effort to grow celery, Curtis
fell back on the Chinese gardeners. The Orientals, though
pestered by envious workmen, finally made a success of the
industry, helping to establish what is now a most important
local agricultural activity.</p>
<p>These Chinese vegetable gardeners, by the way, came to
practice a trick<SPAN name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</SPAN> designed to reduce their expenses, and at
which they were sometimes caught. Having bargained with
the authorities for a small quantity of water, they would cut
the <i>zanjas</i>, while the <i>Zanjero</i> or his assistants slept, steal the
additional water needed, and, before the arrival of the <i>Zanjero</i>
at daybreak, close the openings!
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</SPAN></span></p>
<p>J. Wesley Potts was an early arrival, having tramped across
the Plains all the way from Texas, in 1852, reaching Los Angeles
in September. At first, he could obtain nothing to do but haul
dirt in a hand-cart for the spasmodic patching-up of the streets;
but when he had earned five or six dollars in that way, he took
to peddling fruit, first carrying it around in a basket. Then
he had a fruit stand. Getting the gold-fever, however, Potts
went to the mines; but despairing at last of realizing anything
there, he returned to Los Angeles and raised vegetables, introducing,
among other things, the first locally-grown sweet
potatoes put on the market—a stroke of enterprise recalling
J. E. Pleasants's early venture in cultivating garden pease.
Later he was widely known as a "weather prophet"—with
predictions quite as likely to be worthless as to come true.</p>
<p>The prickly pear, the fruit of the cactus, was common in
early Los Angeles. It grew in profusion all over this Southern
country, but particularly so around San Gabriel at which place
it was found in almost obstructing quantities; and prickly
pears bordered the gardens of the Round House where they were
plucked by visitors. Ugly enough things to handle, they were,
nevertheless, full of juice, and proved refreshing and palatable
when properly peeled. Pomegranates and quinces were also
numerous, but they were not cultivated for the trade. Sycamore
and oak trees were seen here and there, while the willow
was evident in almost jungle profuseness, especially around river
banks and along the borders of lanes. Wild mustard charmingly
variegated the landscape and <i>chaparral</i> obscured many of the
hills and rising ground. In winter, the ground was thickly
covered with burr-clover and the poetically-named <i>alfilaria</i>.</p>
<p>Writing of vegetables and fruit, I naturally think of one of
California's most popular products, the <i>sandía</i> or watermelon,
and of its plenteousness in those more monotonous days when
many and many a <i>carreta</i> load was brought to the indulging
town. The melons were sold direct from the vehicles, as well as
in stores, and the street seemed to be the principal place for the
consumption of the luscious fruit. It was a very common sight
to see Indians and others sitting along the roads, their faces
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</SPAN></span>
buried in the green-pink depths. Some old-timers troubled
with diseases of the kidney, believing that there was virtue in
watermelon seeds, boiled them and used the tea medicinally.</p>
<p>Fish, caught at San Pedro and peddled around town, was a
favorite item of food during the cooler months of the year.
The <i>pescadero</i>, or vender, used a loud fish horn, whose deep
but not melodious tones announced to the expectant housewife
that he was at hand with a load of sea-food. Owing to
the poorer facilities for catching them, only a few varieties of
deep-water fish, such as barracuda, yellowtail and rockfish
were sold.</p>
<p>Somewhere I have seen it stated that, in 1854, O. W. Childs
brought the first hive of bees from San Francisco at a cost of
one hundred and fifty dollars; but as nearly as I can recollect,
a man named Logan owned the first beehives and was, therefore,
the pioneer honey-producer. I remember paying him
three dollars for a three-pound box of comb-honey, but I have
forgotten the date of the transaction. In 1860, Cyrus Burdick
purchased several swarms of bees and had no difficulty in
selling the honey at one dollar a pound. By the fall of 1861,
the bee industry had so expanded that Perry & Woodworth,
as I have stated, devoted part of their time to the making of
beehives. J. E. Pleasants, of Santiago Cañon, known also for
his Cashmere goats, was another pioneer bee-man and received
a gold medal for his exhibit at the New Orleans Exposition.
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</SPAN></span></p>
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