<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></SPAN>CHAPTER VI</h2>
<p>Here I sit back, and words fail me. I see that year as a
kaleidoscope of one joyful day after another, each rushing by and
leaving the memory that we both always had, of the most perfect
year that was ever given to mortals on earth. I remember our eighth
wedding anniversary in Berkeley. We had been going night after
night until we were tired of going anywhere,—engagements
seemed to have heaped up,—so we decided that the very
happiest way we could celebrate that most-to-be-celebrated of all
dates was just to stay at home, plug the telephone, pull down the
blinds, and have an evening by ourselves. Then we got out
everything that we kept as mementos of our European days, and went
over them—all the postcards, memory-books, theatre and opera
programmes, etc., and, lastly, read my diary—I had kept a
record of every day in Europe. When we came to that year in
Heidelberg, we just could not believe our own eyes. How had we ever
managed to pack a year so full, and live to tell the tale? I wish I
could write a story of just that year. We swore an oath in Berlin
that we would make Heidelberg mean Germany to us—no
English-speaking, no Americans. As far as it lay in our power, we
lived up to it. Carl and I spoke only German to each other and to
the children, and we shunned our fellow countrymen as if they had
had the plague. And Carl, in the characteristic way he had, set out
to fill our lives with all the real German life we could get into
them, not waiting for that life to come of itself—which it
might never have done.</p>
<p>One afternoon, on his way home from the University, he
discovered in a back alley the Weiser Boch, a little restaurant and
beer-hall so full of local color that it "hollered." No, it did not
holler: it was too real for that. It was sombre and carved
up—it whispered. Carl made immediate friends, in the way he
had, with the portly Frau and Herr who ran the Weiser Boch: they
desired to meet me, they desired to see the Kinder, and would not
the Herr Student like to have the Weiser Boch lady mention his name
to some of the German students who dropped in? Carl left his card,
and wondered if anything would come of it.</p>
<p>The very next afternoon,—such a glowing account of the
Amerikaner the Weiser Boch lady must have given,—a real truly
German student, in his corps cap and ribbons, called at our
home—the stiffest, most decorous heel-clicking German student
I ever was to see. His embarrassment was great when he discovered
that Carl was out, and I seemed to take it quite for granted that
he was to sit down for a moment and visit with me. He fell over
everything. But we visited, and I was able to gather that his corps
wished Herr Student Par-r-r-ker to have beer with them the
following evening. Then he bowed himself backwards and out, and
fled.</p>
<p>I could scarce wait for Carl to get home—it was too good
to be true. And that was but the beginning. Invitation after
invitation came to Carl, first from one corps, then from another;
almost every Saturday night he saw German student-life first hand
somewhere, and at least one day a week he was invited to the duels
in the Hirsch Gasse. Little by little we got the students to our
Wohnung; then we got chummier and chummier, till we would walk up
Haupt Strasse saluting here, passing a word there, invited to some
student function one night, another affair another night. The
students who lived in Heidelberg had us meet their families, and
those who were batching in Heidelberg often had us come to their
rooms. We made friendships during that year that nothing could ever
mar.</p>
<p>It is two years now since we received the last letter from any
Heidelberg chum. Are they all killed, perhaps? And when we can
communicate again, after the war, think of what I must write them!
Carl was a revelation to most of them—they would talk about
him to me, and ask if all Americans were like him, so fresh in
spirit, so clean, so sincere, so full of fun, and, with it all,
doing the finest work of all of them but one in the University.</p>
<p>The economics students tried to think of some way of influencing
Alfred Weber to give another course of lectures at the University.
He was in retirement at Heidelberg, but still the adored of the
students. Finally, they decided that a committee of three should
represent them and make a personal appeal. Carl was one of the
three chosen. The report soon flew around, how, in Weber's august
presence, the Amerikaner had stood with his hands in his
pockets—even sat for a few moments on the edge of Weber's
desk. The two Germans, posed like ramrods, expected to see such
informality shoved out bodily. Instead, when they took their leave,
the Herr Professor had actually patted the Amerikaner on the
shoulder, and said he guessed he would give the lectures.</p>
<p>Then his report in Gothein's Seminar, which went so well that I
fairly burst with pride. He had worked day and night on that. I was
to meet him at eight after it had been given, and we were to have a
celebration. I was standing by the entrance to the University
building when out came an enthused group of jabbering German
students, Carl in their midst. They were patting him on the back,
shaking his hands furiously; and when they saw me, they rushed to
tell me of Carl's success and how Gothein had said before all that
it had been the best paper presented that semester.</p>
<p>I find myself smiling as I write this—I was too happy that
night to eat.</p>
<p>The Sunday trips we made up the Neckar: each morning early we
would take the train and ride to where we had walked the Sunday
previous; then we would tramp as far as we could,—meaning
until dark,—have lunch at some untouristed inn along the
road, or perhaps eat a picnic lunch of our own in some old castle
ruin, and then ride home. Oh, those Sundays! I tell you no two
people in all this world, since people were, have ever had
<i>one</i> day like those Sundays. And we had them almost every
week. It would have been worth going to Germany for just one of
those days.</p>
<p>There was the gay, glad party that the Economic students gave,
out in Handschusheim at the "zum Bachlenz"; first, the banquet,
with a big roomful of jovial young Germans; then the play, in which
Carl and I both took part. Carl appeared in a mixture of his Idaho
outfit and a German peasant's costume, beating a large drum. He
represented "Materialindex," and called out loudly, "Ich bitte mich
nicht zu vergessen. Ich bin auch da." I was "Methode," which nobody
wanted to claim; whereat I wept. I am looking at the flashlight
picture of us all at this moment. Then came the dancing, and then
at about four o'clock the walk home in the moonlight, by the old
castle ruin in Handschusheim, singing the German student-songs.</p>
<p>There was Carnival season, with its masque balls and frivolity,
and Faschings Dienstag, when Hauptstrasse was given over to
merriment all afternoon, every one trailing up and down the middle
of the street masked, and in fantastic costume, throwing confetti
and tooting horns, Carl and I tooting with the rest.</p>
<p>As time went on, we came to have one little group of nine
students whom we were with more than any others. As each of the men
took his degree, he gave a party to the rest of us to celebrate it,
every one trying to outdo the other in fun. Besides these most
important degree celebrations, there were less dazzling affairs,
such as birthday parties, dinners, or afternoon coffee in honor of
visiting German parents, or merely meeting together in our favorite
café after a Socialist lecture or a Max Reger concert. In
addition to such functions, Carl and I had our Wednesday night
spree just by ourselves, when every week we met after his seminar.
Our budget allowed just twelve and a half cents an evening for both
of us. I put up a supper at home, and in good weather we ate down
by the river or in some park. When it rained and was cold, we sat
in a corner of the third-class waiting-room by the stove, watching
the people coming and going in the station. Then, for dessert, we
went every Wednesday to Tante's Conditorei, where, for two and a
half cents apiece, we got a large slice of a special brand of the
most divine cake ever baked. Then, for two and a half cents, we saw
the movies—at a reduced rate because we presented a certain
number of street-car transfers along with the cash, and then had to
sit in the first three rows. But you see, we used to remark, we
have to sit so far away at the opera, it's good to get up close at
something! Those were real movies—no danger of running into a
night-long Robert W. Chambers scenario. It was in the days before
such developments. Then across the street was an "Automat," and
there, for a cent and a quarter apiece, we could hold a glass under
a little spigot, press a button, and get—refreshments. Then
we walked home.</p>
<p>O Heidelberg—I love your every tree, every stone, every
blade of grass!</p>
<p>But at last our year came to an end. We left the town in a bower
of fruit-blossoms, as we had found it. Our dear, most faithful
friends, the Kecks, gave us a farewell luncheon; and with babies,
bundles, and baggage, we were off.</p>
<p>Heidelberg was the only spot I ever wept at leaving. I loved it
then, and I love it now, as I love no other place on earth and Carl
felt the same way. We were mournful, indeed, as that train pulled
out.</p>
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