<h3><SPAN name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</SPAN></h3>
<div class="chapquot">
<div>
<p>—— Thou sure and firm-set earth,<br/>
Hear not my steps, which way they walk, for fear<br/>
Thy very stones prate of my whereabout.</p>
<p class="citation">Macbeth.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="sidenote">Abolition Tendencies of Kentuckians.</div>
<p>There were two of my acquaintances (one very prominent in the
Secession movement) with whom, while they had no suspicion of my
real business, I could converse with a little frankness. One of them
desired war, on the ground that it would unite the inhabitants of all
the border slave States, and overpower the Union sentiment there.</p>
<p>"But," I asked, "will not war also unite the people of the North?"</p>
<p>"I think not. We have a great many earnest and bold friends there."</p>
<p>"True; but do you suppose they could stand for a single week against
the popular feeling which war would arouse?"</p>
<p>"Perhaps you are right," he replied, thoughtfully, "but it never
occurred to me before."</p>
<p>My other friend also talked with great frankness:</p>
<p>"We can get along very well with the New England Yankees who are
permanently settled here. They make the strongest Secessionists we
have; but the Kentuckians give us a great deal of trouble. They were
born and raised where Slavery is unprofitable. They have strong
proclivities toward Abolitionism. The constituents of Rozier and
Roselius, who fought us so persistently in the Convention, are nearly
all Kentuckians. </p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</SPAN></span></p>
<div class="sidenote">Two Chief Causes of Secession.</div>
<p>"Slavery is our leading interest. Right or wrong, we have it and
we must have it. Cotton, rice, and sugar cannot be raised without
it. Being a necessity, we do not mean to allow its discussion.
Every thing which clashes with it, or tends to weaken it, must go
under. Our large German population is hostile to it. About all these
Dutchmen would be not only Unionists, but Black Republicans, if they
dared."</p>
<p>Perhaps it is the invariable law of revolutions that, even while the
revolters are in a numerical minority, they are able to carry the
majority with them. It is certain that, before Sumter was fired on,
a majority in every State, except South Carolina, was opposed to
Secession. The constant predictions of the Rebel leaders that there
would be no war, and the assertions of prominent New York journals,
that any attempt at coercion on the part of the Government would
be met with armed and bloody resistance in every northern city and
State, were the two chief causes of the apparent unanimity of the
South.</p>
<p>The masses had a vague but very earnest belief that the North,
in some incomprehensible manner, had done them deadly wrong.
Cassio-like, they remembered "a mass of things, but nothing
distinctly; a quarrel, but nothing wherefore." The leaders were
sometimes more specific.</p>
<p>"The South," said a pungent writer, "has endured a great many wrongs;
but the most intolerable of all the grievances ever thrust upon her
was the Census Report of 1860!" There was a great deal of truth in
this remark. One day I asked my New Orleans friend:</p>
<p>"Why have you raised all this tempest about Mr. Lincoln's election?"</p>
<div class="sidenote">Fundamental Grievance of the Rebels.</div>
<p>"Don't deceive yourself," he answered. "Mr. Lincoln's
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</SPAN></span>
election had nothing to do with it, beyond enabling us to rouse our
people. Had Douglas been chosen, we should have broken up the Union
just as quickly. Had Bell triumphed, it would have been all the
same. Even if Breckinridge had been elected, we would have seceded
before the close of his term. There is an essential incompatibility
between the two sections. <em>The South stands still, while the North
has grown rich and powerful, and expanded from ocean to ocean.</em>"</p>
<p>This was the fundamental grievance. Very liberal in his general
views, he had not apparently the faintest suspicion that Slavery was
responsible for the decadence of the South, or that Freedom impelled
the gigantic strides of the North.</p>
<p>Yet his theory of the Rebellion was doubtless correct. It arose
from no man, or party, or political event, but from the inherent
quarrel between two adverse systems, which the fullness of time
had ripened into open warfare. His "essential incompatibility" was
only another name for Mr. Seward's "Irrepressible Conflict" between
two principles. They have since recorded, in letters of blood, not
merely their incompatibility, but their absolute, aggressive, eternal
antagonism.</p>
<p>During the second week in April, I began to find myself the object of
unpleasant, not to say impertinent, curiosity. So many questions were
asked, so many pointed and significant remarks made in my presence,
as to render it certain that I was regarded with peculiar suspicion.</p>
<p>At first I was at a loss to surmise its origin. But one day I
encountered an old acquaintance in the form of a son of Abraham,
who had frequently heard me, in public addresses in Kansas, utter
sentiments not absolutely pro-slavery;
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</SPAN></span>
who knew that I once held a modest commission in the Free State army,
and that I was a whilom correspondent of <cite>The Tribune</cite>.</p>
<div class="sidenote">Sudden Departure from New Orleans.</div>
<p>He was by no means an Israelite without guile, for he had been
chased out of the Pike's Peak region during the previous summer,
for robbing one of my friends who had nursed him in sickness.
Concluding that he might play the informer, I made an engagement
with him for the next afternoon, and, before the time arrived, shook
from my feet the dust of New Orleans. Designing to make a <span
lang="fr">détour</span> to Fort Pickens on my way, I procured
a ticket for Washington. The sea was the safer route, but I was
curious to take a final look at the interior.</p>
<p>On Friday evening, April 12th, I left the Crescent City. In five
minutes our train plunged into the great swamp which environs the
commercial metropolis of the Southwest. Deep, broad ditches are cut
for draining, and you sometimes see an alligator, five or six feet
long, and as large as the body of a man, lying lazily upon the edge
of the green water.</p>
<p>The marshy ground is mottled with gorgeous flowers, and the palmetto
is very abundant. It does not here attain to the dignity of a tree,
seldom growing more than four feet high. Its flag, sword-shaped
leaves branch out in flat semicircular clusters, resembling the fan
palm. Its tough bulbous root was formerly cut into fine fragments
by the Indians, then bruised to a pulp and thrown into the lake. It
produced temporary blindness among the fishes, which brought them to
the surface, where they were easily caught by hand.</p>
<p>With rare fitness stands the palmetto as the device of South
Carolina. Indeed, it is an excellent emblem of Slavery itself; for,
neither beautiful, edible, nor useful, it blinds the short-sighted
fish coming under its influence. </p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>To them it is</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>——"The insane root, Which takes the reason prisoner."</p>
</div>
<p>A ride of four miles brought us to Lake Pontchartrain, stretching
away in the fading sunlight. Over the broad expanse of swelling
water, delicate, foamy white caps were cresting the waves.</p>
<div class="sidenote">The War Spirit in Mobile.</div>
<p>We were transferred to the propeller Alabama, and, when I woke the
next morning, were lying at Mobile. With a population of thirty
thousand, the city contains many pleasant residences, embowered in
shade-trees, and surrounded by generous grounds. It is rendered
attractive by its tall pines, live oak, and Pride-of-China trees. The
last were now decked in a profusion of bluish-white blossoms.</p>
<p>The war spirit ran high. Hand-bills, headed "Soldiers wanted," and
"Ho! for volunteers," met the eye at every corner; uniforms and arms
abounded, and the voice of the bugle was heard in the streets. All
northern vessels were clearing on account of the impending crisis,
though some were not more than half loaded.</p>
<p>Mobile was very radical. One of the daily papers urged the imposition
of a tax of one dollar per copy upon every northern newspaper or
magazine brought into the Confederacy!</p>
<p>The leading hotel was crowded with guests, including many soldiers
<span lang="la">en route</span> for Bragg's army. It was my own
design to leave for Pensacola that evening, and look at the possible
scene of early hostilities. A Secession friend in New Orleans had
given me a personal letter to General Bragg, introducing me as a
gentleman of leisure, who would be glad to make a few sketches of
proper objects of interest about his camps, for one of the New York
illustrated papers. It added that he had known
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</SPAN></span>
me all his life, and vouched completely for my "soundness."</p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">Suspicions Aroused—an Awkward Encounter.</span></div>
<p>But a little incident changed my determination. Among my
fellow-passengers from New Orleans were three young officers of the
Confederate army, also bound for Fort Pickens. While on the steamer,
I did not observe that I was an object of their special attention;
but just after breakfast this morning, as I was going up to my room,
in the fourth story of the Battle House, I encountered them also
ascending the broad stairs. The moment they saw me, they dropped the
subject upon which they were conversing, and one, with significant
glances, burst into a most violent invective against <cite>The
Tribune</cite>, denouncing it as the vilest journal in America,
except Parson Brownlow's <cite>Knoxville Whig!</cite> pronouncing
every man connected with it a thief and scoundrel, and asserting that
if any of its correspondents could be caught here, they would be hung
upon the nearest tree.</p>
<p>This philippic was so evidently inspired by my presence, and the eyes
of the whole group glared with a speculation so unpleasant, that I
felt myself an unhappy Romeo, "too early seen unknown and known too
late." I had learned by experience that the best protection for a
suspected man was to go everywhere, as if he had a right to go; to
brave scrutiny; to return stare for stare and question for question.</p>
<p>So, during this tirade, which lasted while, side by side, we
leisurely climbed two staircases, I strove to maintain an exterior
of serene and wooden unconsciousness. When the speaker had exhausted
his vocabulary of hard words, I drew a fresh cigar from my pocket,
and said to him, "Please to give me a light, sir." With a puzzled
air he took his cigar from his mouth, knocked off the ashes with
his forefinger, handed it to me, and stood regarding
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</SPAN></span>
me a little curiously, while, looking him full in the face, I slowly
ignited my own Havana, returned his, and thanked him.</p>
<p>They turned away apparently convinced that their zeal had outrun
their discretion. The look of blank disappointment and perplexity
upon the faces of those young officers as they disappeared in the
passage will be, to me, a joy forever.</p>
<p>Pondering in my room upon fresh intelligence of the arrest of
suspicious persons in General Bragg's camp, and upon this little
experience, I changed my plan. As Toodles, in the farce, thinks he
"won't smoke," so I decided not to go to Pensacola; but ordered a
carriage, and drove down to the mail-boat St. Charles, which was to
leave for Montgomery that evening.</p>
<p>I fully expected during the afternoon to entertain a vigilance
committee, the police, or some military officials who would invite
me to look at Secession through prison bars. It was not an inviting
prospect; yet there was nothing to do but to wait.</p>
<p>The weather was dreamy and delicious. My state-room looked out upon
the shining river, and the rich olive green of the grassy shore. Upon
the dull, opaque water of a broad bayou beyond, little snowy sails
flashed, and a steamer, with tall black chimneys, left a white, foamy
track in the waters, and long clouds of brown smoke against the sky.</p>
<div class="sidenote">"Mass'r, Fort Sumter's Gone up!"</div>
<p>At three o'clock in the afternoon, while I was lying in my
state-room, looking out drowsily upon this picture, a cabin-boy
presented his sooty face at the door and said, "Mass'r, Fort Sumter's
gone up!"</p>
<div class="sidenote">Bells Ringing and Cannons Booming.</div>
<p>The intelligence had just arrived by telegraph. The first battle of
the Great War was over, and seventy-two men, after a bombardment
of two days, were captured
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</SPAN></span>
by twelve thousand! In a moment church and steamboat bells rang out
their notes of triumph, and cannon belched forth their deep-mouthed
exultation. A public meeting was extemporized in the street, and
enthusiastic speeches were made. Mindful of my morning experience,
I did not leave the boat, but tried to read the momentous Future.
I thought I could see, in its early pages, the death-warrant of
Slavery; but all else was inscrutable.</p>
<p>There was a steam calliope attached to the "St. Charles." That
evening, when the last bell had rung, and the last cable was taken
in, she left the Mobile landing, and plowed slowly up the river
to the shrill notes of "Dixie's Land."<SPAN name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6" href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">6</SPAN></p>
<p>The Alabama is the "most monotonously beautiful of rivers." In the
evening twilight, its sinuous sweep afforded a fine view of both
shores, timbered down to the water's edge. Dense foliage, decked in
the blended and intermingled hues of summer, gave them the appearance
of two soft, smooth cushions of variegated velvet.</p>
<p>After dark, we met the descending mail-boat. Our calliope saluted
her with lively music, and the passengers assembled on the guards,
greeting each other with the usual huzzas and waving of hats and
handkerchiefs. </p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>On Sunday morning, the inevitable calliope awoke us—this time,
with sacred music. At many river landings there was only a single
well-shaded farm-house on the bank, with ladies sitting upon the
piazzas, and white and negro children playing under the magnificent
live-oaks. At others, a solitary warehouse stood upon the high,
perpendicular bluff, with an inclined-plane railway for the
conveyance of freight to the water. At some points the country was
open, and a great cotton-field extended to the river-bank, with a
weather-beaten cotton-press in the midst of it, like an old northern
cider-mill.</p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">A Terp­si­chorean Young Negro.</span></div>
<p>Planters, returning from New Orleans and Mobile, were met at the
landings by their negroes. The slaves appeared glad to see them, and
were greeted with hearty hand-shakings. At one landing the calliope
struck up a lively strain, and a young darkey on the bank, with
the Terpsichorean proclivity of his race, began to dance as if for
dear life, throwing his arms and legs in ludicrous and extravagant
fashion. His master attempted to cuff his ears, but the little
fellow ducked his head and danced away, to the great merriment of
the lookers-on. The negro nurses on the boat fondled and kissed the
little white children in their charge most ardently.</p>
<p>I saw no instance of unkind treatment to slaves; but a young planter
on board mentioned to me, as a noteworthy circumstance, that he had
not permitted a negro to be struck upon his plantation for a year.</p>
<p>A Texian on board the boat was very bitter against Governor Houston,
and, with the usual extreme language of the Rebels, declared he
would be hanged if he persisted in opposing the Disunionists. An old
citizen of Louisiana, too, became so indignant at me for remarking I
had always supposed Douglas to sympathize with the South, that I made
haste to qualify the assertion. </p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</SPAN></span></p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">Leading Charac­teristics of Southerners.</span></div>
<p>Our passengers were excellent specimens of the better class of
southerners. Aside from his negrophobia, the southern <em>gentleman</em>
is an agreeable companion. He is genial, frank, cordial, profoundly
deferential to women, and carries his heart in his hand. His social
qualities are his weak point. To a northerner, passing through his
country during these disjointed times, I would have said:</p>
<p>"Your best protection is to be 'hail fellow, well met;' spend money
freely, tell good stories, be liberal of your private brandy-flask,
and your after-dinner cigars. If you do this, and your manners are,
in his thinking, gentlemanly, he can by no means imagine you a Yankee
in the offensive sense. He pictures all Yankees as puritanic, rigid,
fanatical, and talking through the nose. 'What the world wants,' says
George William Curtis, 'is not honesty, but acquiescence.' That is
profoundly true here. Acquiesce gracefully, not intemperately, in the
prevailing sentiment. Don't hail from the State of Massachusetts;
don't 'guess,' or use other northern provincialisms; don't make
yourself conspicuous—and, if you know human nature, you may pass
without serious trouble."</p>
<p>Our southerner has little humanity—he feels little sympathy for a
man, <em>as</em> a man—as a mere human being—but he has abundant warmth
toward his own social class. Not a very high specimen himself, he
yet lays infinite stress upon being "a gentleman." If you have the
misfortune to be poor, and without credentials, but possess the
manners of education and good society, he will give you kinder
reception than you are likely to obtain in the bustling, restless,
crowded North.</p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">Southern Pro­vin­cialisms.</span></div>
<p>He affects long hair, dresses in unqualified black, and wears kid
gloves continually. He pronounces
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</SPAN></span>
iron "<em>i</em>-ron" (two syllables), and barrel "barl." He calls
car "kyah" (one syllable), cigar "<em>se</em>-ghah," and negro
"<em>nig</em>-ro"—never negro, and very rarely "nigger." The
latter, by the way, was a pet word with Senator Douglas. Once, while
his star was in the ascendant, some one asked Mr. Seward:</p>
<p>"Will Judge Douglas ever be President?"</p>
<p>"No, sir," replied the New York senator. "No man will ever be
President of the United States who spells negro with two g's!"</p>
<p>These southern provincialisms are sometimes a little startling.
Conversing with a young man in the senior class of a Mississippi
college, I remarked that men were seldom found in any circle who had
not some sympathy or affinity with it, to stimulate them to seek it.
"Yes," he replied, "something to <em>aig them on</em>!"</p>
<p>The forests along the river were beautiful with the brilliant green
live-oak festooned with mistletoe, the dark pine, the dense cane,
the spring glory of the cottonwood and maple, the drooping delicate
leaves of the willow, the white-stemmed sycamore with its creamy
foliage, and the great snowy blossoms of the dog-wood.</p>
<p>With a calliope, familiarity breeds contempt. Ours became an
intolerable nuisance, and induced frequent discussions about bribing
the player to stop it. He was apparently animated by the spirit of
the Parisian who set a hand-organ to running by clockwork in his
room, locked the apartment, went to the country for a month, and,
when he returned, found that two obnoxious neighbors, whom he wished
to drive away, had blown out their brains in utter despair.</p>
<p>While I was pleasantly engaged in a whist-party in the cabin, this
fragment of a conversation between two bystanders reached my ears: </p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>"A spy?"</p>
<p>"Yes, a spy from the North, looking about to obtain information for
old Lincoln; and they arrested one yesterday, too."</p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">Con­fed­erate Capitol at Mont­gomery.</span></div>
<p>This was a pleasing theme of reflection for the timid and
contemplative mind. A passenger explained the matter, by informing
me that, at one of the landings where we stopped, telegraphic
intelligence was received of the arrest of two spies at Montgomery.
The popular impression seemed to be, that about one person in ten was
engaged in that not-very-fascinating avocation!</p>
<p>In Indian dialect, Alabama signifies, "Here we rest;" but, for me,
it had an exactly opposite meaning. We awoke one morning to find
our boat lying at Montgomery. Reaching the hotel too early for
breakfast, I strolled with a traveler from Philadelphia, a pretended
Secessionist, to the State House, which was at present also the
Capitol of the Confederacy.</p>
<p>Standing, like the Capitol in Washington, at the head of a broad
thoroughfare, it overlooks a pleasant city of eight thousand people.
The building is of stucco, and bears that melancholy suggestion of
better days which seems inseparable from the Peculiar Institution.</p>
<p>The senate chamber is a small, dingy apartment, on whose dirty
walls hang portraits of Clay, Calhoun, and two or three Alabama
politicians. The desks and chairs were covered with antiquated public
documents, and the other <span lang="la">débris</span> of
legislative halls. While returning to the hotel, we heard from a
street loafer a terse description of some model slave:</p>
<p>"He is just the best nigger in this town. He knows enough to work
well, and he knows nothing else."</p>
<p>We were also informed that the Virginia Convention had passed a
Secession ordinance. </p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>"This is capital news; is it not?" said my Philadelphia companion,
with well-assumed glee.</p>
<p>For several days, in spite of his violent assertions, I had doubted
his sincerity. This was the first time he broached the subject when
no one else was present. I looked steadily in his eye, and inquired:</p>
<p>"Do you think so?"</p>
<p>His half-quizzical expression was a satisfactory answer, even without
the reply:</p>
<p>"I want to get home to Philadelphia without being detained on the
way."</p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">"Copperas Breeches" vs. "Black Breeches."</span></div>
<p>In the hotel office, two well-dressed southerners were discussing the
omnipresent topic. One of them said:</p>
<p>"We shall have no war."</p>
<p>"Yes, we shall," replied the other. "The Yankees are going to fight
for a while; but it will make no difference to us. We have got
copperas breeches enough to carry this war through. None of the black
breeches will have to shoulder muskets!"</p>
<p>The reader should understand that the clothing of the working whites
was colored with a dye in which copperas was the chief ingredient;
while, of course, the upper, slaveholding classes, wore "customary
suits of solemn black." This was a very pregnant sentence, conveying
in a few words the belief of those Rebels who instigated and impelled
the war.</p>
<div class="sidenote">
<span class="smcap">A Cor­res­pondent in Durance Vile.</span></div>
<p>The morning newspapers, at our breakfast-table, detailed two
interesting facts. First, that "Jasper,"<SPAN name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7" href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">7</SPAN> the
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</SPAN></span>
Charleston correspondent of <cite>The New York Times</cite>, had been
seized and imprisoned in the Palmetto City. Second, that Gen. Bragg
had arrested in his camp, and sent under guard to Montgomery, "as a
prisoner of war," the correspondent of <cite>The Pensacola</cite>
(Fla.) <cite>Observer</cite>. This journalist was an enthusiastic
Secessionist, but had been guilty of some indiscretion in publishing
facts touching the strength and designs of the Rebel army. His
signature was "Nemo;" and he now bade fair to be No One, indeed, for
some time to come.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</SPAN></span></p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />